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Defense tactics

2020-05-14T07:48:08Z

Mayoculpa: /* Strategic zoning */

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{{for|defensive constructions against threats|Defense structures}}

Getting attacked, whether by tribals, pirates or hordes of angry animals is a common event in the rimworlds. Defense against these attacks is one of the keys to having a successful colony.

This page details different tactics for defense and visualizations of them, applicable to most stages of the game.

== Raiders ==

=== Behavior ===

[[Raider]]s will attack randomly chosen constructed objects, colonists and colony [[animals]]. They will not attack natural rock walls (not the case for sappers), non-hostile wild animals or unpowered turrets. They will also attack [[prisoner]]s if they are captured from their enemy factions.

They usually set fire to crops in growing zones, [[power]] generation or conduits, and other production buildings. They will melee attack furniture, doors and walls. They also use thrown explosives on structures, and some use [[EMP grenades]] to stun your turrets.

Raiders will prioritise firing on colonists or turrets that are actively engaging, but will otherwise attack random objects, meaning you can put doors or walls near your defenses to temporarily distract them.

If humanlike non-mechanoid raiders are unable to defeat your colony in time, they may give up. Normal raiders will give up between {{ticks|26000}} to {{ticks|38000}} after the raid begins, while sappers will give up between {{ticks|33000}} to {{ticks|38000}} after they begin the attack.

=== Preparation ===

Humanlike raiders will sometimes start by standing around in a group where they spawned and will continue this until they see a [[colonist]] nearby or they hit a certain preparation time limit, at which point they begin the assault. Because a colonist can set them off early, you can plan out the time you want them to attack.

=== Equipment ===

Raiders spawn with randomized equipment depending on their weapon and clothing budget and their raider type.

==== Apparel ====

[[Raiders|Pirates]] can range from only wearing a tattered pair of [[pants]] to [[armor vest]]s to full sets of [[power armor]]. [[Raider#Mercenaries|Mercenary slashers]] will always come in [[shield belt]]s and only they do so. 
Tribals always come in [[tribalwear]], with some in [[war mask]]s or [[war veil]]s.

In cold environments, both will come in wearing [[parka]]s or [[tuque]]s, protecting them from temperatures of around -40 to -50°C, sometimes up to -110°C if they wear wool parkas. They don't usually come in wearing [[duster]]s or [[cowboy hat]]s in hot areas, making them vulnerable to the heat.

They tend to wear leather, [[cloth]] or [[synthread]] clothes, which don't provide good protection, and less commonly the more protective [[devilstrand]] or [[hyperweave]].

While mid-late game pirates usually come with around 40% - 60% sharp protection, with quality apparel you can push yours to have more than 100%, giving you the upper hand.

==== Weapons ====

Pirates spawn with most weapons in the game, whatever their faction is willing to provide them.
 Tribals usually come equipped with primitive weapons, but can sometimes be seen with captured high-quality melee weapons as well.

For the most part, weapons are assigned at random, meaning that more often than not raiders don't get to use a weapon appropriate for their skills; brawlers can often be seen charging into battle with a gun and a -20 mood penalty, supported by skilled shooters which try to shoot with a melee weapon before giving up and charging in. 
However, some classes of raider always come with the same (category of) weapon. For example, mercenary snipers always use sniper rifles, grenadiers wield some form of thrown explosive and tribal archers always use neolithic ranged weaponry.

If you have your colonists equip suitable weapons according to their skills, you already have an advantage over the raiders over this point.

==== Drugs ====

Pirates or Outlanders may utilize some form of combat-enhancing drug, namely [[go-juice]], [[yayo]] and [[luciferium]]. They will usually start off addicted to them, and will carry some in their inventory which is dropped upon death. They may also use multiple drugs, disregarding the risk of overdose.

These can reduce the amount of the pain received, making the raider last longer in battle before going down. Increased movement speed also allow raiders to get into position earlier, and brawlers to harass your defenders more easily.

*[[Go-juice]] is an excellent combat drug that makes the raider much more efficient in battle. It eliminates 90% of pain, gives a 30% movement speed buff, and a 10% consciousness buff for more accuracy. The raider is almost guaranteed to fight until death, or the rarer case of incapacitation through a shattered spine, severe brain damage or removal of both legs.
**It's almost always more worth it to use body part-destroying weapons such as the [[Sniper rifle]] to kill them, as Go-juice does not reduce the actual damage they take.
*[[Yayo]] grants a 15% buff to speed and eliminates half of pain received. Enemies under the effect of yayo are more durable against damage not concentrated on a vital body part
**It will take more hits to down them, and more likely the raider dies first due to lethal damage, but is still possible.
*[[Luciferium]] grants a wide range of buffs to the user, from increased organ function, to slight movement speed and consciousness buffs, to reduced pain.
**It's more troublesome to capture addicted raiders since you'll need to regularly feed them luciferium to sustain their lives, which is very expensive and hard to come by -- it's usually more worthwhile to just strip and finish them on the spot.

== Core battle tactics ==

No matter what sort of defenses you use, these battle tactics may be useful.

=== Melee tactics ===

Melee soldiers are a useful asset in your colonies, if used correctly. They can bring disruption against ranged enemies, because being engaged in melee interrupts and prevents ranged attacks, and staggers the enemy thus slowing movement. Ranged enemies are also forced to fight back with makeshift melee attacks with their guns, which are woefully inadequate against a dedicated brawler.

In addition, melee soldiers can fend off invading brawlers charging into your lines, or beat up drop podding enemies.

[[Shield belt]]s and good armor is usually necessary for you colonists to close the gap between you and the enemy. Melee attackers without the protection of shields are highly vulnerable to gunfire, even if heavily armored. Before battle, hide your melee attackers until all enemy melee attackers are engaged in battle, or put them in line in front of your gunners for quick deployment and damage absorption.

Friendly fire is a serious issue in hand-to-hand combat, as you can easily hit your own fighters. While it is still a bearable problem if their shields are up, once the shields are down you will need to manually retarget to prevent friendly fire.

==== Melee sortie ====

This tactic involves using a small element of melee colonists to charge enemy ranged attackers and take the heat off your own gunners.

Can be used to take down annoying long-ranged snipers or small gunner groups. Note that charging at entrenched ranged attackers can also divert their attention from your own entrenched forces to your charging brawlers.

==== Melee rush ====

Melee rushing is the tactic of sending your melee attackers to engage hostiles all at once, rather than focusing on shooting them down or sending small parties to take down troublesome enemies.

Melee rushes can work alone, especially with quality equipment; well-equipped melee rushes can hold off an attack and cause raiders to flee despite being slightly outnumbered. They also attract a great deal of friendly fire from the enemy, as they try to shoot down your brawlers, hitting their allies in the process.

If you aren't afraid of friendly fire, it can be combined with a firing squad from a distance for devastating effects. The brawlers cause chaos within the raiding party while the firing squad lays fire to destroy them while the raiders are trying to cope with your brawlers.

Note that enemy melee rushes are not to be countered by your own melee rush; there is a [[#Melee blocking|much more effective tactic]] detailed below.

==== Peeling ====

If a vulnerable gunner is under attack by melee attackers, you can 'peel' them away using your brawlers. Have them engage the melee attackers, who will then focus on your brawlers, allowing your gunner to get to relative safety.

Trained animals automatically peel for their assigned masters, if 'Release animals' is Off. The animals will attack any hostiles coming close rather than straying off to attack distant targets. 
Setting 'Release animals' to On right when another colonist in distress near the trainer causes the animals to swarm the attacker, peeling them off.

Peeling is a relatively high-risk activity, as you are trying to put a pawn at risk in return for allowing a pawn at greater risk to escape. Peeling pawns should be expendable or decently armored.

==== Self-defense ====

Even though they aren't as good as dedicated melee weapons, guns still hurt in melee combat, even surpassing some low-quality melee weapons. This allows shooters to have a fighting chance against melee enemies.

Shooters can fight off small animals quite easily with melee, so have them fight back instead of letting the animal chew them to death.

Melee attacks with guns are a viable alternative if your colonists are adept at melee combat and the guns don't fare well at touch range. Since they don't usually emerge victorious from a 1v1 melee fight unless there is a massive skill gap, have someone else join in the fray, be it a brawler or gunner. 

=== Body blocking ===

[[File:Bodyblock_choke.png|250px|thumb|right|You shall not pass.]]

Enemies can be physically blocked by colonists or animals, denying them access to locations. This can be done to a significant tactical advantage.

Heavily armored soldiers are needed to body block active combatants, as they will take a lot of hits while blocking, and even so they will eventually collapse due to sustained damage. They should also be able to deal good damage at point-blank.

Blocking can be used to slow down prison breaks, seal off escape routes for enemies, or more aggressively to devastate melee only raids, detailed below.

==== Melee blocking ====

When faced with a full melee attack, instead of engaging enemies on the frontline, '''retreat behind your walls, and open doors to use as chokepoints'''. Leave up to '''three''' melee brawlers standing right behind (not in) the chokepoint to block enemies while cutting them down, stationing more nearby as replacements, and gunners behind to fire on the blocked intruders. This forces melee enemies to trickle in and fight with your soldiers one-by-one, making them significantly easier to dispatch of. Make sure all brawlers are heavily armored to block damage, and shielded to block friendly fire.

Stray bullets will not harm your tanks if the shooter is not standing too far behind; that means it is not a good idea to use long-range fire.

This is a horribly effective way to defeat melee attacks. Compared to a regular frontline defense, this tactic significantly reduces the casualties your side will sustain. You also don't need to build anything special for this purpose- any opening or door in the wall will do. If you use [[killbox]]es then it's best that you build it in a way such that melee blocking attacks can be conducted effectively inside.

For maximum pain, use high-DPS guns for your backline for bringing the hurt, combined with quality melee for your frontline to deal sustained damage in between barrages.
*The [[chain shotgun]] or [[heavy SMG]] are the weapons of choice in this situation due to their unparalleled close-range DPS.
*Miniguns, while effective at shredding the tightly packed enemies behind the chokepoint, are generally not recommended due to the collateral damage to the walls. If you do choose to use them, aim at the middle of the crowd so you can hit as many enemies as possible, while also reducing the damage done to the walls.

Combined with measures to force enemies into close range, it may be effective against ranged enemies as well, but beware as enemies can still fire until you start beating them up.

<gallery widths="400px" heights="400px" class="center" mode="nolines">
File:Melee_test_eleplants_normal.png|10 manhunter elephants vs 3 armored brawlers and 4 armored gunners; all colonists are downed while all elephants remain standing.
File:Melee_test_eleplants_block.png|Same situation but with melee blocking; only 1 colonist downed, and all elephants defeated. Note that even with the center brawler downed, the remaining brawlers can continue to block by forcibly engaging enemies in melee.
</gallery>

=== Spacing out ===

Each colonist should ideally stand '''at least 1 tile away from other colonists''', thus reducing the chance of enemy bullets hitting somebody else after missing the original target, which deals a lot of damage to static grouped up defenders.

Explosives will also hit fewer people this way, though there are better countermeasures than simply spacing defenders apart.

=== Dealing with rockets ===

Rocket launchers are painful to deal with, due to the huge area damage and long range. In the mid-late game they are one of the biggest threats from the enemy. 
The best way to deal with them is to distract them to fire elsewhere, in order to greatly reduce the amount of damage received.

Raiders with rocket launchers are often seen in the backline preparing their rockets, while their allies lay down fire at the front. They get distracted quite easily, wasting them on animals or lone colonists. This can be exploited simply by '''charging them with single units''', which will cause them to fire it towards them and away from the rest of your forces. They may fire at point-blank, injuring themselves and their comrades, or with some luck in positioning and fast melee units, you can even intercept them before they can lock on with their rocket launcher, forcing them into hand-to-hand combat and eventually yielding the launcher which can be captured for future use.

This is a high-risk but necessary move to take, and some pawns may need to be sacrificed.

For successful distraction, you have to make your charging units the only available targets for them to consider attacking. If they have a better target with less possible friendly fire, they may attack them instead. To combat this, have all your other units, including animals, stay completely out of range until the rocket launchers have been neutralized.

==== Shielded unit deployment ====

Deploy brawlers equipped with [[shield belt]]s and heavy armor, letting the shields block the blast as well as some fire. There are two variations of this:
#Move in a zigzag pattern in front of the enemy to draw their attention, and dodge the rockets when they are discharged.
#Directly charge into the fray with your shielded fighters, such that any rockets fired at them will likely hit other enemies as well.

Be prepared to sacrifice someone, as their shields are very likely to be broken whether by the blasts or concentrated gunfire.

==== Expendable animal charge ====

Have animals that are both expendable and fast charge the enemy, rocket soldiers included. It's especially good if the animals can survive a rocket blast, as it allows them to continue distracting any further rockets.

For multiple rocket launchers, send animals in batches, such as by assigning animals to different handlers and setting them to attack at different times, to prevent them from being wiped out by a single blast.

While they do not need to be obedience- or release-trained, as you can use animal area zones to force them into areas, doing so is less effective as animals have a delay before moving into their assigned zones and may be very far away.

==== Friendly fire with rockets ====

Besides being caught in a blast, enemies can also take friendly fire if the rockets impact them instead of your colonists.

You can increase the chance of this happening by having the rocket travel over as many enemies as possible through aligning your distractors. Each rocket travelling over a pawn has up to 40% chance to impact, setting it off early.

If you see that an enemy rocketeer has locked onto a brawler, you can also choose to charge the enemy with that brawler. It will either cause the enemy to deal immense friendly fire, or allow you to take out the rocketeer outright.

==== Killbox tactics ====

Rockets are much more dangerous in a killbox where colonists and turrets are closely bunched together. If you're unlucky, a rocket will set off turret explosions, causing additional damage. Rocketeers are a priority target that need to be rapidly eliminated as soon as they enter.

However, killboxes do provide 2 crucial advantages: range restriction and concentrated fire. This allows you to direct concentrated fire onto the rocketeers to neutralize them rapidly.

=== Rescue ===

When a colonist is downed or severely injured, it's best to drag them out of the fight immediately. Don't leave them there otherwise they risk dying from stray bullets or blood loss. You don't really need to send them directly to hospital; just drop them off somewhere outside of active combat.

Colonists lying outside cover are riskier to rescue. Choose the right time to pull them out, using your best-protected colonists, and don't let anyone near at other times.

Non-combatants should serve as rescue members by standing near a fight to pull out downed colonists. Non-combatant doctors can alternatively be drafted to stand near the medicine storage to allow them to quickly grab medicine for treatment.

Evacuating colonists away from the downed prevents them from receiving further fire until being rescued.

If a colonist cannot reach the hospital in time (~2 hours from death or less), have them immediately lie down at a temporary sleeping spot safely outside the battlefield, then have the doctor closest to the medicine storage go and treat the colonist ASAP, or treat them on the spot by setting treatment to doctor care only. Patch colonists up a little such that they can reach the hospital without bleeding out, then carry them there. You will have a higher infection chance this way, but it's better than the colonist bleeding to death while on their way to the hospital.

=== Friendly fire management ===

Friendly fire is a serious issue when facing close-range attackers, especially manhunter packs. If they manage to run past your barrage of gunfire to engage your ranged soldiers, they may receive more injuries from friendly fire in the ensuing chaos than the attackers themselves. You need to be careful when directing your troops so you don't hit your own forces by accident.

Pawns can fire over the shoulders of friendlies up to 2 tiles (i.e. 1-tile space in between) away, meaning that you can have a 3-wide row of soldiers without friendly fire, which is not recommended.

# When the enemy breaks the ranks, only let the soldiers closest to melee attackers fire at them.
#*Manually re-target the others to fire at another direction, repositioning them if needed.
# Disable 'Fire at will' when the enemies are closing in so they won't switch targets, potentially causing friendly fire.
# Have only 1 line of shooters so stray bullets, including bullets fired horizontally at melee attackers, will less likely hit someone.

=== Firing at cover ===

While cover works best against attacks coming straight, it's usually better to fire straight at the target instead of from an angle. If you fire straight at it, only 1 unit of cover will be effective, but if you shoot at a diagonal angle, 2 units of cover will be effective, both being capable of blocking shots, in total contributing to higher cover effectiveness.

However, if you can get to the point where you're almost firing horizontally at the raiders, then cover becomes nearly ineffective at protecting the raider, allowing many more shots to connect. This often requires you get out of your own cover, so it's not recommended unless you can find suitable cover nearby.

For skilled medium-long range shooters it's best to shoot from a great angle to hit them from the sides. 
However for not-so-good or short ranged shooters it's better to directly fire at them instead as the extra distance will make it harder to land hits, or cause the raider to exit firing range.

'''The below shows the difference firing angle makes on the hit chance of a pawn hiding behind cover.''' Cover values are from Alpha 16, but the mechanics remains unchanged.

<gallery widths="400px" heights="400px" class="center" mode="nolines">
File:Fire_cover_straight.png|Firing straight at a raider in cover; 1 stone chunk blocks 40%.
File:Fire_cover_angled1.png|Firing at an angle; 2 stone chunks block 48% total.
</gallery>
<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" class="center" mode="nolines">
File:Fire_cover_angled2.png|Firing at a greater angle; 2 stone chunks block 37% total.
File:Fire_cover_angled3.png|Firing almost horizontally; 1 granite chunk blocks 8% only.
</gallery>

== Mobile warfare ==

=== Flanking and Surrounding ===

To flank enemies, have some defenders approach enemies from the sides or the back instead of concentrating fire on the front. To surround them, attack from all sides.

Enemy ranged units often stay in the same spot when engaging your colonists, and they tend to have effective cover facing one direction only, making them vulnerable to flanking. Flanking enemy ranged units can distract them and cause them to lose their cover advantage with attacks coming from multiple sides. While this makes you lose the advantage of high-quality cover, it is balanced out by the enemy's loss of cover.

This works best against entrenched ranged enemies attacking you from one side. They should be occupied with attacking frontal targets so you can creep up to them to unload lead on them from another angle. It's even better if you pair with melee to tie them up, buying time for your soldiers to get into position and preventing them from moving into new positions.

Rounding up any fleeing survivors also becomes easier if you have someone (especially melee fighters) blocking off escapes from behind.

==== Moving in ====

While moving in you need to make sure you stay far enough away from enemies, and directly right-clicking on the destination will nearly always result in a path that crosses with the enemy.

This can be overcome by '''shift-clicking to form a path for the pawn to follow''', making sure to keep sufficient distance.

Shield belts, drawing enemy fire from a different direction, or simply using walls and terrain to block projectiles are all good ways to move in.

==== Wide arc flank ====

This tactic is about scattering your fighters in a wide arc facing your enemies. Rather than huddling together behind continuous lines of cover such as lines of rock chunks, each soldier should be taking cover on their own, and be able to shoot straight at the enemy without anyone else in between.

This gives more flexibility in positioning as well as greatly reduced vulnerability against explosives or collateral damage. Engaging your flankers also results in enemy fire being scattered, so focus fire won't take down anyone easily.

You can deploy shielded colonists to draw fire effectively from your gunners, though they need to be arranged carefully so as to be able to tank without taking friendly fire.

Perfect against preparation raids or in-construction siege camps when you can't use your static cover and they won't directly attack your base upon arrival. However if the enemy has a significant cover advantage (such as sandbags) then this tactic may not work out in your favor.

=== Tanking ===

This tactic simply requires you put your shielded colonists before your static gunners to partially soak up gunfire. This is best when you have insufficient cover, or additional cover to block more bullets for your frontline tanks.

As with any tactic involving meat shields, this poses a great risk to colonists' lives. If the colonists' shields are downed and they are not well-armored, you will have to get them to retreat behind cover until their shields come back online, otherwise your colonist will be exposed to ruthless gunfire.

Beware of high damage-per-hit weapons which can instantly down shields.

=== Hit and run ===
Against slow or static targets you can employ this to weaken them. You will need several fast-moving long-ranged colonists, possibly with [[charge lance]]s or [[bolt-action rifle]]s. Have them move within range to fire, quickly exiting range once the enemy returns fire. Repeat until conditions are no longer safe to conduct this attack, such as enemies entering full aggression and charging.

Effective against siege camps and preparing raiders for they tend to stay put at their location until they are aggravated into attacking.

=== Kiting ===
This risky and situational tactic is effective when employed correctly.

It involves the use of fast colonists (with 120-140% or more Moving) running near moving enemies to gain their attention. Constantly outrun them while staying within their attention range, if not the enemy will engage other targets instead. After running far enough, fire a few shots at them before running again. This way, kiters can distract a group of enemies by leading them around the map, while chipping away at their health.

As long as your colonist safely outruns hostiles, you're fine. However, if the enemy catches up, your colonist will be slowed and on his own.

====Equipment====
A fast, long-range weapon is safest (e.g. [[assault rifle]]), while a fast moderate-range weapon (e.g. [[machine pistol]]) may be used but is riskier. Slow weapons such as sniper rifles are not recommended as the need to stand still for extended periods puts soldiers in grave danger.

Kiting colonists should be lightly armored while still maintaining a fast speed.

== Additional tactics ==

=== Baiting ===

Faster, more well-protected colonists can be used to lead enemies into traps or ambushes. This is for situations when you have defenses concentrated in one direction, but the enemy comes from another.

[[File:Bait tables 2.jpg|250px|thumb|right|Setting the bait furniture on fire only hastened this raider's demise.]]

Cheap furniture also makes good bait. Raiders will smash any player-built furniture left out in the open, such as tables or wooden stools. This can be helpful to split them up or lure them into range of your defenders' weapons.

=== Luring in ===

Enemies can be lured closer to your base by keeping your colonists out of sight, then swarming out to attack once they draw closer to your base. Afterwards they will switch to engage your defenders.

This can be used to negate the range advantage of enemies. It also works well with melee blocking to lure enemies into trying to jam themselves into your chokepoints, rather than beating up your base.

=== Animals ===

The animals on the map, tamed or not, can be used to your advantage.

Raiders never come using tamed animals so the advantage of animals on your side is solely yours.

==== Tamed animal release ====

With your handlers, you can amass a huge army of animals to charge the enemy. Simply find a good combat-capable animal, tame it, and train it to learn Release.

There are many animals that are good for this purpose.
#[[Wild boar]]s are an excellent choice as they can graze, reproduce quickly, move fast and pack a punch.
#[[Squirrel]]s are a surprisingly good choice despite their low DPS and health; they are exceedingly fast and small, making them hard to hit, as well as reproduce fast.
#If you like bigger animals, you can also tame [[elephant]]s or [[rhinoceros|rhino]]s.
#[[Boomrat]]s are a suitable choice if you want an army of suicide bombers. [[Boomalope]]s are trickier to handle; though they are larger, slower and easier to hit, once they get into position their large explosions can hit a group of enemies at once.

Tamed animals also cause pirates to fire near their allies in a bid to get them off their allies, potentially causing friendly fire.

==== Meat shield ====
The animals surrounding a handler can be used as a convenient meat shield as they take bullets, arrows and other projectiles (but not explosions) for their master. Provided they don't stray too far, they won't receive friendly fire as the shooters simply fire over them. All you need is to train Obedience, instead of Release.

==== Strategic zoning ====
Raiders take their sweet time to exterminate any trace of your tamed animals on the map. This can be exploited to your advantage, as long as you're willing to have a few animals valiantly sacrifice themselves.

*'''Distraction''': If you let your animals run all over the place, raiders may be tied up trying to wipe out the animals. This can give your colonists time to prepare, such as entering defensive positions or running to your mortars to fire a few rounds, as well as scatter the raiders making them easier to deal with. Raiders wielding rocket launchers also tend to waste them on your animals, leaving your colonists and structures mostly unharmed. However if they see better targets they will come at them instead.
*'''Direct offense''': Besides distraction, animals may also engage raiders, harming or killing them.
*'''Manipulation''': Animals can be moved around without the need of training Release, simply by changing the allowed zone of your animals. A short time later, the animals will move towards the zone and stay there. When animals are sleeping you can put animal sleeping spots beneath them and then remove them to wake them up. Untrained animals will flee from threats, but will fight back to defend themselves if they are damaged by a hostile.
**'''Aggressive zoning''': Zone animals in a place where you are expecting an encounter with enemies. Enemies will notice the animals and will start attacking, making them fight back and injure or even down the attackers. This method works for any animal, even those that cannot be trained. Remember to undo the zoning otherwise the animals may starve. [[Boomalope]]s and [[boomrat]]s are especially useful by causing explosions, setting raiders on fire and delaying their assault.

[[File:Strategic zoning 1.jpg|thumb|center|Zoning untrained animals around a ship part.]]

[[File:Strategic zoning 2.jpg|thumb|center|Mechanoids targeted nearby animals instead of colonists. Boomalope death explosions caused significant damage.]]

**'''Animal chokepoint''': Zone the animals in a chokepoint, creating a dense cluster.
***This is vulnerable to AoE weaponry so increase the area of the zone to make it that animals don't get too tightly together, if the enemy has explosives.

==== Aggravating animals ====
If you have any easily enraged wild animals ([[emu]]s, [[thrumbo]]s, etc) standing near the enemy, you can shoot them to anger them and make them charge at the enemy.

You can also opt to enrage an animal then have a fast colonist (>130% Moving) lead it towards the enemy. Some enemies will stop and engage the animal, potentially causing it to switch targets. For quite the obvious reasons it's best to equip a shield belt on the kiting colonist if he isn't the one enraging the animal.

For this, larger animals are best due to their high health and damage. A thrumbo can be considered a godsend in a raid; just send 1 straight into the raider hordes, and let 'er rip. 
Smaller animals are faster and hard to hit, making them decent distraction and causing a hefty amount of friendly fire among the enemy as well.

Remember, if you can down the animal easily with colonists, so can the raiders.

=== Base scattering ===

This is a '''last-ditch tactic to defeat humanlike enemies''' if you are significantly outnumbered.

Instead of engaging them right away, let enemies scatter around the base first. After they scatter widely apart, divide and conquer, using large groups of soldiers to overcome them with ease, while others are busy demolishing other parts of your base.

Remember to patch up the base after the damage done. Coolers are especially tricky as they serve as weak points and are expensive.

=== Outside help ===

If the [[AI Storytellers|storyteller]] is feeling somewhat merciful, outside help may come to save the day.

Don't count on this however, as these rarely happen on their own, and most of the time you still need to fend off the raiders yourself.

==== Friendly reinforcements ====

Occasionally while hostiles are on the map, a friendly military caravan will come to bolster your defenses. The threats may also coincide with friendly trade caravans, visitors or passersby, who will help to engage a common enemy.

This requires you be already allied with some factions, so that they will send help of meaningful value; otherwise they may just send a few people who will quickly get downed and serve no purpose other than distraction.

Besides actual assistance, traders may also come with around 550 - 1000 points, enough to hold their own against a smaller raid. This allows you to have decent fire support around half the time, simply by calling in 1 trade caravan once every day (assuming alliances with all 4 non-pirate factions). It costs goodwill (or silver pre-0.19) but allows you to trade, as well.

You may also call for additional help from allied outlanders at a cost of -20 goodwill (tribals are unable to send help due to technological limitations). This can be repaired by diplomatic gifts, or rescuing and treating downed friendlies.

==== Common enemy ====

If mechanoids, manhunters or another enemy faction show up, raiders may stop to engage them. This causes losses to both groups of enemies, making it easier to pick off the stragglers. Being concurrently raided by two different enemies at once is more common during the ship reactor start-up phase, making it slightly easier to survive the onslaught.

If there are unopened [[ancient shrine]]s you can open them, which may contain artifacts, mechanoids, confused spacers, all useful against raiders, or none of the above.

Using the [[psychic animal pulser]] is essentially invoking this tactic, but you need to be very careful when using it.

==== Environmental hazards ====

Very rarely, when unable to put a proper fight, you can count on Mother Nature to play for your side. Invaders will come to you without proper protection against the weather. You will be able to fend off the attack without confrontation.

Choosing to play on an extremely hot or cold map, such as in a sea ice biome near the poles, seals the fate of all raiders foolhardy enough to come.

<gallery widths="450px" heights="450px" class="center" mode="nolines">
File:Siege flee from Toxic fallout and hypothermia.png|'''Siege flees from Toxic fallout and hypothermia.'''
File:Siege flee from Toxic fallout and hypothermia 2.png|'''Free prisoners in bulk.'''
</gallery>

== Humanoid assaults ==

=== Sieges ===

During a [[Raider#Siege|siege]], raiders go to a location outside your base, receive materials via drop pod and will proceed to build a simple mortar camp. The mortar camp will generally have 2 mortars and sandbags as cover. The sandbags need not cover the mortars, nor will they necessarily face your base.

<gallery widths="450px" heights="450px" class="center" mode="nolines">
File:Siege_base_construct.png|Siege camp under construction.
File:Siege_base_finished.png|Finished siege camp. Note that sieges always come with 2 mortars.
</gallery>

When faced with a siege, there are a few strategies you can use.

In most cases it's better to attack the siege camp as the raiders will continuously siege the colony even if you're in hiding, and most likely you will eventually need to face off against the raiders yourself.

==== Camp assault ====

If you assault their camp, one possibility is sniping the raiders, prompting them to assault your colony directly instead of continuing their siege once you down several of them. Defeating them early enough will result in most of their items remaining intact, which you can take for yourself. 
Another alternative is to snipe the mortars, hoping an explosion will take out many raiders, but keep in mind that for those you will need to either send someone dangerously close to enemy fire, or draw all attention to one side to allow flankers to snipe and detonate them.

Unlike most defensive situations, this time they will have the advantage of good cover on their side. You will have to find suitable cover, such as rock chunks, which you can fire from.

Sniping [[mortar]]s under construction, when they have much lower health, is effective at wasting the enemy's resources.

They are vulnerable to flanking if they haven't finished their sandbags or left a side uncovered. However, once all cover is completed, flanking is less of an effective solution.

==== Early interception ====

The best time to attack them is when they've just started building their camp. At this time their resources would have arrived.

Attacking them at this time forces them to use rock chunks just like you do, instead of having the superior sandbags on their side. Their mortars won't be ready as well.

'''Attack only when their resources have arrived''', otherwise they will flee and not send any resources, which you could've stolen had you attacked later.

==== Hit-and-run ====

An effective tactic to lure sieging raiders out is to conduct hit-and-run attacks against them. Taking down someone usually causes them to give up on sieges and directly attack, making them lose their cover advantage.

==== Countering with mortars ====

If you have your own mortars, you can use them to fire back at the raiders. The raiders will stay put to defend the camp, making them easy targets for mortar strikes.

[[High-explosive shell]]s deal heavy damage to tight groups of raiders if they hit, ignoring all cover but solid walls in the process. A tight volley can devastate mortar camps, forcing them to either attack or flee outright.

[[Incendiary shell]]s are an effective way of distracting sieges as the raiders will be preoccupied with extinguishing the resultant flames. 2 mortars are usually enough to keep them from doing any activity other than firefighting, unless it is raining or there are no flammables nearby. This deals little damage to them, however.

[[EMP shell]]s can stun the mortars, preventing them from firing. It is perhaps better used as a support weapon while your defenders assault the camps, to reduce the damage done to your base.

==== Sneak attack ====

If you don't have the strength to attack directly, you can wait for them to sleep at night, then use the opportunity to set your colonists into position for a sneak attack.

Once someone receives an injury, everybody will wake up, so be sure to have everything in place.

# Get within range and throw a coordinated barrage of [[frag grenades]] at the enemy, blowing the defenseless raiders to bits.
# Go very close (no more than 3 tiles) then unload your guns on the exposed raiders. Nearly every bullet will connect, dealing heavy amounts of damage upfront.
# 1 well-aimed [[doomsday rocket launcher]] can end the siege easily. While also effective at day, it is much safer to approach at night, and the raiders will also be more tightly packed.
# Send brawlers straight in, beating up dangerous enemies like rocketeers first.
# Steal their supplies and wait for them to send more. Free food and mortar shells!
# Burn the enemy with fire, a task made much easier while they are off-guard. This will eventually force them out to attack after suffering from heavy losses.
#* Lighting the mortars on fire allows them to be destroyed with ease.
#* Surround the camp with fire. Upon waking up, they will put forward their futile efforts in controlling the raging sea of fire around them, eventually giving up and attacking.

==== Deep tunneling ====

Mortars cannot hit anything that is under an overhead mountain. This makes deep mining a effective defensive strategy against heavy bombardment. If you don't build your base into a mountain, you may at least consider digging out at least one panic room for non-combatants to hide within from the shells while others head out for the assault.

==== Firefoam shell jamming ====

[[File:Firefoam shell jamming.png|500px|thumb|right|Enemy mortar filled with a firefoam shell, demonstrated by reddit user u/xenoxaos.]]

An interesting way to nullify the threat of a mortar attack is to launch a transport pod filled with firefoam shells to a location closer to the mortars than the shells they brought with them. When the shells arrive, the enemy will load them shells into the mortar instead. This means that the damage to your base will be much reduced, as firefoam shells do little damage beyond damaging roofs.

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=== Shielded melee charges ===

[[File:Melee_charge_edge.png|240px|thumb|right|Full melee charge at the edge of the map, with everyone shielded and equipped with melee weapons.]]

Pirates or Outlanders can come with all-melee charges, with most enemies wearing [[shield belt]]s. This can prove a threat to ranged-reliant defenses as they charge towards the colonists directly with their shield belts blocking large amounts of damage. 
While they are vulnerable when their shields are down, many can still reach your colonists and engage them in melee combat.

==== Melee blocking ====

The '''[[#Melee blocking|Melee blocking]]''' tactic is especially useful here; for better effectiveness, open multiple chokepoints to spread out enemies and keep them busy trying to squeeze in, otherwise they will get bored and wander off to attack other things.

Shields don't stand a chance against concentrated fire poured down a narrow entrance.

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=== Sniper party ===

Raiders can come using only sniper rifles, giving them a very long range but low overall damage.

The danger comes in that if you engage them conventionally, you may need to exit your quality cover, removing your cover advantage.

Sniping them back is not recommended unless you have a surplus of skilled snipers and cover.

==== Luring in ====

Instead of engaging them on the frontline, you can keep everyone out of sight, then rush out only once they get close to your base, negating their range advantage.

=== Heavy explosives assault ===

Enemies may come in mainly equipped with area damage weapons, such as rocket launchers, grenades and miniguns. This can cause serious damage to your base, your colonists, and the raiders themselves.

The main danger, as always, is from the rockets. The ideal method is to [[#Distracting rockets|distract]] them from the main defending force, not only reducing damage taken by friendly forces, but also increasing friendly fire the enemy takes. The fact that so many of the raiders have rocket launchers means that friendly fire can be so serious that the raiders will decide to retreat to cut losses by friendly fire alone.

Due to the wide use of explosives, cover is less useful; you would benefit more from flexibility in positioning rather than protection from cover. Space out your defenders, preferably far from your base structures, while giving them enough space to move around to evade attacks.

==== Disengagement and distraction ====

If you have many tamed animals, you can zone them near the raiders, who will be distracted to fire at the animals with rockets. Enemies are much more likely to receive friendly fire when firing towards your animals right next to them.

==== Grenadiers ====

Besides rocketeers, many of the enemies will also be grenadiers, which are short-ranged and are thus vulnerable to fire from a distance. Once the rockets have been taken care of, you can shoot them down with concentrated fire quite easily. Make sure to dodge the grenades if they do close in.

==== All-in melee charge ====

You can go hardcore and send in all your shielded brawlers to go straight at the enemy rocketeers. Gunners should stay out of range of rockets until all rockets launchers have been used.

This is especially effective when '''they come in to chase a refugee''', leaving you enough time to position your brawlers deep into the enemy. 
At any rate, expect losses this way due to the concentrated explosions.

=== Base flank ===

Besides sending one large attack party, enemies can also split up their forces and attack your base from multiple sides.

To adequately defend against this sort of attack, you may need to split up your own defenders and fight several battles at once, thus increasing the difficulty of managing the battle.

Each of the individual groups will flee on their accord.

==== Divide and conquer ====

If the enemy decides to prepare before attacking, you can afford to send out a larger attack party to eliminate the groups one-by-one.

=== [[Sappers]] ===

Sappers will mine and blast their way through any obstacles, such as natural or constructed walls, though avoiding high-health ore veins. They will also try to circumvent your defenses to attack from another direction. Their goal is to reach one of your bedrooms or barracks, where they will begin to wreak havoc.

In an open base, sappers can usually be treated as a weaker-than-usual bunch of raiders. However, they are a great threat to turret-reliant, mountain or walled bases, including baes with killboxes.

Their grenadiers and miners deal heavy damage to structures; even the toughest [[plasteel]] walls will not stop them for long. They will also persistently try to tunnel into your base, continuing even if their digger is killed or they are under attack.

==== Turret funneling ====

It is possible to funnel sappers with unpowered turrets, since sappers will avoid entering turret radius.

==== Early interception ====

With enough manpower, you can choose to intercept them while they're tunneling into your base. They tend not to use cover when doing so, so you can catch them by surprise. Once your defenders intercept them, they will turn to engage you.

==== Rocket counterattack ====

The [[doomsday rocket launcher]] is your best bet against sappers, if they aren't a full melee charge. Since they are bunched closely together, a single well-placed rocket can blow up most of the attacking party, causing the rest to flee in panic. If they have rocket launchers, they may drop them on death, so you may actually end up with more rockets than you started with.

If you are the one using the rockets, you have the advantage of being able to fire first. Aim it at a spot where the enemy is likely to be bunched up. If you're quick you can defeat the enemy before they can even fire back at you, ensuring victory.

Rocketeers should be behind your best cover so they can survive long enough to fire. Your other colonists should be closer to the enemy to draw fire, but out of the rocket's path lest it hits your colonists instead.

==== Mountain bases ====

If you're in a mountain base you can draft a few melee pawns to wait at the entrance, as well as a few ranged pawns facing the entrance to fire down the tunnel. When they do break in you will already have prepared to face the raiders and can pour a stream of lead right into their face or cut them into pieces.

In a mountain base, since they take longer to mine through the tock, you may try placing an [[IED trap]] right behind the wall that a sapper is trying to tunnel through, to catch them by surprise with an explosive blast. This is especially effective if it's placed right on the other side of a loose [[rock chunk]] (easily found in tunnels), which will slow down any enemies stepping over it enough that they won't be able to retreat in time.

==== Aftermath ====

Remember to cover up any tunnels or gaps in your defenses as they open up an opportunity for raiders to come straight into your base. You may fortify it and turn it into a booby-trapped chokepoint to catch unsuspecting raiders seeking direct entry.

=== Drop pod attacks ===

Sometimes pirates or mechanoids will come in drop pods. If they land at the edges, they can be treated as a normal raid party, unless you have expanded to the edges, in which they will land inside your base. 
To defend against this, have a second line of defenses inside your base so you can deny the drop-podders easy entry into your base.

The main danger comes in landing right in the center of your base. Capable enemies not using alternative strategies such as sieges or sappers have a 10% chance of doing so.

Once they choose to land there, things will get ugly. By landing in the middle, they bypass most of your conventional defenses, and you can't use your cover advantage against them. They will also break through constructed roofs on their way down, landing right inside rooms and buildings. This can put not only your colonists, but your stockpiles in grave danger, as well, especially if they land near your volatile [[mortar shell]]s or [[chemfuel]] stores, or [[Battery|batteries]].

Fortunately for you, they have a short delay ({{ticks|520}} to be exact) before they open and all hell breaks loose. They also come in smaller numbers than regular raids.

Enemies in drop pods cannot land in tiles beneath an Overhead mountain, so tunneling deep underground can make safe rooms.

==== Strategy ====

Once you see them land, you should immediately draft any nearby armed colonists to the site, whether they are your designated soldiers or not. Let them hold off the attackers for a while before your soldiers arrive to help. You have less than 9 seconds before they open, not enough for a soldier to get halfway across the map to help. 
Any non-combatants should immediately be evacuated. They may still stay close to help in rescue efforts, pulling out any downed colonists. Make sure it's safe to rescue them- as in rescuers not walking through the crossfire and back again to get a colonist to the hospital. You may need to forbid doors to prevent them from walking through the firefight into a hospital.

Melee is useful against these attacks, for you can immediately start beating up the enemy as soon as they exit the pods. They can also shut down dangerous enemies such as rocketeers.

Like other raids, humanoid raiders will attempt to flee after receiving heavy losses; however, if they land inside enclosed areas of your base, they will be trapped, allowing your colonists to down and capture them at leisure; in their panic, they won't try to fight back, until you're well into beating them up.

==== Cover ====

You should use your furniture or wall corners as cover and fire from behind them. You can also have 2 colonists hiding behind each doorway for full cover. Toggle the doors to be held open, otherwise they can't fire. Be careful as enemies will also utilise cover as well; to combat this, attack from multiple angles or use melee fighters.

Spread out colonists so they don't take collateral damage, even if it may mean some will fire out of cover. Keep heavily armored colonists up front and lightly armored colonists at the back.

Colonists with high construction skill can relocate furniture quickly; use this to your advantage by creating cover for yourself and removing it from enemies.

If you have larger bases, you can build indoor defensive positions along crucial corridors, but take care not to let the enemy use them. Stone [[shelf|shelves]] are an option as they are durable, non-flammable and beauty-neutral.

==== Fire management ====

As most furniture is flammable, you will need to extinguish any fires if you want to prevent damage. One option is to reinstall and trigger a firefoam popper inside, which also fireproofs the room, preventing any further fires.

If you prioritize the defeat of the raiders over the loss of your property, and the walls of the room are fireproof, you can simply let fires burn, or even start some more, while you evacuate the room and shut the doors, cooking the raiders alive. Watch out for fire and heat spreading to nearby rooms, and put out fires immediately once the raiders are well done. 
Not effective against mechanoids as they aren't affected by temperature and cannot be set on fire.

==== Equipment ====

High-DPS or melee weapons work best to deal with drop pod attacks. 
Mid-range weapons are also good for clearing out larger rooms. 

Long-ranged weapons are less effective due to their low damage output and the confined nature of indoor spaces rendering their superior range unnecessary.

Explosive, incendiary or area denial weapons are excellent at room-clearing, but are not recommended except in dire situations due to heavy collateral damage.

=== Tribal raids ===

[[File:Tribal_raid.png|300px|thumb|right|Group of tribal fighters.]]

Tribal raiders come with relatively poor equipment, instead relying on sheer numbers for power. Their neolithic weapons can dish out heavy damage despite their low technology level. They are also adept at combat, with many being acquainted to some combat skill or another. 

Different strategies may be required, compared to pirate or outlander raids.

==== Tribal fighters ====

They can take more of a beating compared to other poorly armored enemies as some of the clothing items they wear gives them increased endurance against pain, but when compared with other decently armored enemies they are easier to kill individually as their clothing doesn't provide much protection overall.

Their archers or hunters can fire their bows from a somewhat long distance, sometimes forcing you out of cover to fire your shorter ranged weapons at them. 
Warriors or berserkers don't use shields (unlike their pirate counterpart, the mercenary slasher), making them vulnerable to gunfire.

You should watch out for the pila wielded by heavy archers, as well as berserkers.
*Despite the short range and slow fire rate, pila are incredibly deadly if they land, capable of killing or incapacitating unprotected colonists with a lucky shot to the heart, spine or limbs.
*Berserkers carry excellent melee weapons that dish out incredible amounts of damage once they get close.

==== Weapons ====

You will need sufficient mid-long range firepower to take down tribal archers from a distance, for getting close to them in order to fire your guns is pretty much suicide. Long-ranged weapons beyond 32 tiles can effectively hit archers at maximum range, matching or outranging them.

Close-mid ranged weapons with high stopping power are good for taking down tribespeople that come too close to your defenders, but they alone cannot defeat tribals effectively just by staying in static cover.

Crowd control helps greatly in defeating tribal raids.

*The [[Minigun]] is extremely effective as it can easily mow down the densely packed groups of tribal invaders.
*All explosive weapons are devastating on tribals.
**Rocket launchers deal heavy damage while being reasonably accurate.
**[[High-explosive shell]]s can pulverize a sizable group of tribals at once if they manage to hit.
**Grenades are less effective as you have to risk a colonist or two in order to get in range.
*Incendiary weapons are good at getting pesky archers out of cover for your colonists to hit.

=== Empire raids ===

Added in the new [[Royalty DLC]], the Empire is capable of sending powerful troops to assault your base. Unlike Outlanders, Tribals, or Pirates, one major advantage they have is that their skills are matched with the weapon they use- melee Champions will actually be good at melee, while Troopers, Janissaries or Cataphracts all have excellent ranged performance.

Cataphracts are among the most heavily-armored units in-game, with an outer layer of [[cataphract armor]] and an inner layer from an [[armorskin gland]]. However, their armor also slows them down significantly.

== Mechanoids ==

Mechanoids come in 4 types, [[Scyther]]s, [[Lancer]]s (1.0), [[Centipede]]s, and [[Pikeman|Pikemen]] (1.1). They have much differing stats and weapons, meaning different tactics may be used. All types are armored to some degree, and are basically immune to fire damage.

In many raids where they come/drop in at the edges, the Scythers will outrun the Centipedes by a great margin, giving some time to deal with them before the centipedes. However, they can and will support one another effectively, if given the chance for them to come together.

Unlike humanlike raiders, they do not flee, meaning that all of them have to be taken out to neutralize the threat. They do not actively use cover, either.

=== General strategy ===

Ranged mechanoids have a long attack range (at least 27 tiles), making them troublesome to deal with. A way to deal with this is to [[#Luring in|lure them into close range]].

They are vulnerable to EMP damage, which can stun them, rendering them hunks of helpless metal. This can open a window of opportunity where you safely engage at close range, or even with melee. After each use of EMP, mechanoids will adapt to it, becoming immune to further stuns for a short while, so you will need to carefully time assaults and disengage when the mechanoids are about to reactivate.

=== Scythers ===

[[File:MechanoidScyther.png|100px|right]]

Scythers are deadly with melee, and will charge head first at your defenders. They can easily win in a 1v1 fight unless your fighters are heavily armored and have high DPS.

The optimal method of dispatching them is by [[#Melee blocking|melee blocking]], with the added effect of luring the other mechanoids closer to your base. This must be done quickly otherwise the centipedes will catch up and unleash hell on your colonists who are closely packed together in a melee blocking attack.

EMP weaponry combined with melee blocking is a frighteningly effective and safe way to deal with scyther-only charges. If a scyther standing in the chokepoint is stunned, it will block all the other scythers standing behind. To prevent adaptation, only stun the mechanoids within the chokepoint.

If fighting from a distance, high-damage weapons are essential to bursting them down before they reach your colonists. Make sure you always have someone to [[#Peeling|peel]] them off your gunners in case they do survive your barrage.

=== Lancers ===

[[File:MechanoidLancer.png|100px|right]]

Lancers are capable of medium-long range supporting fire to pick out single targets. Despite their apparent role, their performance is actually better the closer you are to them, meaning that approaching them isn't a good option.

They are vulnerable in melee combat, so melee rushing supported by close-range firepower can be used to take them down. Their low health makes taking them down relatively quick despite their light armor, though their damage in melee combat should not be underestimated, and concentrated fire from charge lances can make short work of shields.

If fighting from a distance, cover is vital in getting the upper hand. You need to be able to get your other gunners into range while giving them reasonable cover from the high damage shots. Lancers aren't particularly good shooters (equivalent to a level 8 shooter), so you may readily outperform them with sufficient mid-long ranged firepower.

==== Pre-1.1 Lancers ====

In 1.0 or earlier, charge lances have a longer range of 37 tiles, giving them a long-range sniping as opposed to simply a single target attack role.

The high DPS of the charge lance compared to the lower DPS of other long-range weapons makes counter-sniping not a viable option until you secure some charge lances yourself. Once you do, however, you have the ability to outperform lancers at range.

=== Centipedes ===

[[File:MechanoidCentipede.png|100px|right]]

Centipedes, on the other hand, specialize in crowd control and area denial; the [[Heavy charge blaster]] can annihilate groups of colonists, while the [[Inferno cannon]] sets your colonists ablaze and will burn down your base if you're not careful. They are incredibly durable, sporting thick armor and high health, and can take many hits before being downed.

Spreading colonists apart can mitigate the crowd-control capabilities of centipedes, limiting the number of colonists hit by their weapons.

The Inferno cannon is annoying to deal with and should be your priority target. Keep watch on your colonists at all times and always send them back into cover after they get hit.

Despite their high resistance against sharp damage, shooting them is generally the best option. One good thing is that their large size makes them much easier to hit.

Engaging it in melee is possible, though you have to be careful. While centipedes don't hit hard in melee, if they are carrying the heavy charge blaster, they can deal massive damage to grouped up brawlers. All nearby centipedes with the minigun or heavy charge blaster must either be engaged in melee or disabled to prevent this from happening.

Their slow speed and weaker blunt armor make them excellent targets for high-explosive mortar attacks. Often you can land a couple of blows before they reach firing range, weakening them. This property also allows you to kite them provided they have no lancers or scythers supporting them.

=== Pikemen ===

[[File:MechanoidPikeman.png|100px|right]]

Introduced in 1.1, pikemen take over the lancer's role as snipers. Their extreme range is only matched by the [[sniper rifle]].

They have poor damage output, making them less threatening compared to other mechanoids. Their accuracy is also not appropriate for a sniping mech- equivalent to a level 8 shooter, it will more often than not miss at range.

As the description says, engaging pikemen at close range can be a viable way to take them down, once all others have been dealt with. Charging them can be risky due to the long distance pawns need to travel, but shield belts make the charge much safer, especially when you have multiple brawlers charging at once to divert concentrated fire.

=== Crashed ships ===

Mechanoids are also part of crashed ship events. In 1.1 they drop alongside the ship in pods, while in 1.0 or earlier they swarm out when the ship is damaged.

The type and where it lands are both important factors to consider when dealing with them.

Psychic parts will reduce mood and occasionally drive nearby animals mad, while defoliator parts (aka. poison ship parts in 1.0) will kill nearby plants and cause serious losses to pastures or crops. You cannot deconstruct the part, only destroy it.

Since they won't attack until triggered, you have some time to prepare. However, the longer you take, the worse it gets. If the defoliator ship part lands on the opposite side of your base at a map border, it is possible to leave it there, as they will also react to incoming raids and you may as well solve two problems at once. Not the same for the psychic version though.

If they land between your plantations, you will need to place firefoam poppers and trigger them before combat to prevent fires; the foam will persist until it rains, but then if it is rainy, you won't need the poppers. You may also want to keep a few untriggered poppers nearby to rapidly extinguish a group of burning colonists at once.

[[File:Crashed ship part using foam poppers.png|center|500px]]

==== Defense behavior ====

Mechanoids are triggered immediately when the part is damaged, or something is built within a three-tile radius. They may also be triggered by the Firefoam popper explosion.

Upon triggering, scythers will immediately charge to attack, while lancers, centipedes and pikemen may instead sit in place and attempt to shoot interlopers, only moving to get within range.

Afterwards, they will guard the ship part, engaging any hostiles that come close, and chasing them over short distances. They will return to the part if targets stray too far away from the ship.

In 1.0 mechanoids chased targets over long distances and abandoned the ship part when it is at 50% health.

==== Long-range engagement ====

In the current version, it is better to trigger the mechanoids from a distance, rather than fighting way up close. This is necessary such that you can weaken the scythers with concentrated fire before they reach melee engagement range, as well as give you more time to defeat the lancers before the centipedes move within range. Scythers are especially dangerous as they come in swarms and can quickly overwhelm your gunners, as well as overpower your melee brawlers unless you outnumber them.

You can trigger the mechanoids either by high-explosive mortar fire, or sniping the ship part.
*By attacking with sniper rifles at maximum range you will gain a good enough lead against the mechs to be able to escape safely even without enhancements unless armor is over-encumbering your colonists.
*Mortar volleys can soften the mechanoids, making them easier to defeat by your colonists afterwards.
*In 1.1 you can also throw EMP grenades to stun them before moving in to engage, then retreat before they exit stun, which is 25 seconds after being hit by EMP.

==== Weapons ====

High-DPS weapons are optimal at destroying both the ship part and its defending mechanoids.

Due to the mechanoids spawning very close together, area of effect or crowd control weapons are punishing against them:
*The [[minigun]] is a powerful weapon here:
**It can make short work of the bunched-up mechanoids, then shred the ship part using its unparalleled raw DPS.
**Its already high DPS is further amplified when attacking centipedes as their large size makes it easier to land shots.
**Its long range allows you to attack from a safer distance.
*EMP mortar blasts are able to stun a large number of mechanoids caught in its blast. As the ship part blocks EMP pulses, fire several at once to hit all enemies with a single volley.
*Explosive weapons are useful for dealing damage, but keep in mind that the ship part will block the explosion. They do extra damage to the ship part.

Incendiary weapons are a poor choice for any situation involving mechanoids or crashed ships, given that both are non-flammable.

The [[orbital power beam targeter]] is the ultimate weapon against crashed ships. All you need to do is to aim the beam directly on the ship, and the beam will melt both the ship and its surrounding mechanoids.

==== Construction ====

{{main|Defense structures#Crashed ships}}

Construction is an important part of defeating the mechanoids in a crashed ship. Usually it is best if you can prepare ample cover, such as sandbags or walls, to shoot from.

Keep note that building within a three-tile distance will instantly trigger the mechanoids.

If done properly, [[IED trap]]s can be used to weaken a mechanoid swarm. Don't build too many or you will vaporize the mechanoid corpses, which can be deconstructed for resources.

==== Luring in ====

If you already have ample static defenses, like killboxes, and you want to lure the mechanoids in, you will need to make the mechanoids abandon the ship by destroying it from a long distance.

Previously in 1.0, you can lure the mechanoids simply by triggering at range.

==== Hit-and-run (1.1) ====

Their behavior change in 1.1 makes them vulnerable to hit-and-run tactics. After taking care of the scythers, you are able to chip away at the mechanoids slowly by shooting with sniper rifles at maximum range. If all pikemen are taken out then you are able to safely engage without fear of returning fire.

==== Zoning animals ====

When dealing with a crashed psychic ship part that has been there for some time, do not let any of your tamed animals near it, for the ship part can drive them into manhunter mode. This is additionally harmful as they are capable of opening doors to attack your colonists.

== Manhunters ==

Animals may randomly turn mad and become hostile due to various reasons.

When mad, they will actively attack humanlikes or mechanoids, and will not attack other structures unless provoked (such as seeing someone walk through a door). They are not sophisticated in their attacks and are only capable of actively using melee. Some can explode upon death for devastating results.

=== Animals ===
Any animal can be part of a manhunter pack. Each kind has its own statistics, and can be roughly grouped as follows:

# In terms of speed:
#*Slow: Animals that run slower than an average colonist.
#**Their speed allows you to kite them in addition to melee blocking.
#*Fast: Animals that are faster than most colonists. Obviously the more dangerous of the two.
# In terms of other properties:
#*Explosive: Animals that explode on death such as [[boomalope]]s or [[boomrat]]s.
#**They can set your brawlers alight, ruining melee blocking defenses. For these, you may need alternative tactics.

=== Occurence ===

Mad animals can strike your colony in several ways.

#Singular mad animals may randomly attack.
#Manhunters packs can arrive in massive numbers, or have a few large and deadly animals. They come in a tight pack.
#Psychic waves drive all animals of a single species insane, directing them at your colonists. They are usually scattered at first, then proceed to converge on your colonists.
#In an unfortunate hunting incident, animals being hunted will turn on you, and may even bring their allies along.

=== Melee blocking ===

As with any full melee attacks, '''[[#Melee blocking|melee blocking]] is an extraordinarily efficient way to defeat manhunter packs'''. This is especially so if the animals are small such that they deal little damage before being killed, one after another.

When psychic waves occur, either lure animals into one spot or set up multiple chokes for attack.

=== Animals vs. Animals ===

One good way to fight off mad animals is with... more animals! Just draft anyone with Release-capable animals assigned, and set them out. Your colonists can watch safely from a distance, or take a potshot or two while watching the animals tear each other apart. Just remember to have someone mop up the bloodstains and haul the corpses of the fallen.

=== Hit-and-run ===

A slower strategy is to draft a colonist, place it in a door to shoot a maddened animal, move the colonist back to safety and wait until the animal gives up and wanders off, then repeat. Be careful since this will draw the attention of surrounding maddened animals making them attack the door where the colonist came from, so be ready to repair it immediately. 
You can either kill them directly or wait for blood loss to take its toll. Larger animals can be softened this way before you move in for the kill.

This method is best used if you don't have enough firepower to take on them directly, and you have durable enough doors or a good builder to hold against animal attacks.

=== Kiting ===

Being unsophisticated in their tactics, they can be lured easily.

If you have good shooters that are fast (moving >140%), you can easily kite the faster animals. 
The larger animals are usually slower and any colonist that has normal Moving will do fine against them, though it's still better with a faster-than-average colonist.

It is possible to combine this with a long-range firing squad and turrets laying fire from a distance while they are chasing the colonist; be sure that the animals do not lose track of your kiters otherwise they will switch targets and go for somebody else.

=== Turrets ===

Turrets can distract manhunters for your colonists, giving them more time to shoot while enemies are occupied by the turret. They may explode when destroyed, taking out a sizeable group of animals who won't run away from exploding turrets, switching to another target only after the turret is no more.

=== Waiting it out ===

If you have a perimeter wall or a superstructure base with decent food stocks, you can simply wait it out inside while they relentlessly swarm outside the walls. Some of them will exit manhunter mode once they fall asleep, and will act normally afterwards.

Remember not to let anyone outside unless your intent is to kill the animals. Be careful with your tamed animals who may accidentally let the manhunters in by holding doors open for them.

They will actively attack doors if a colonist hides behind them; as a precaution, build it out of a sturdier material such as [[plasteel]] so they don't get destroyed during a manhunter attack. They will give up after a while if the doors are not destroyed. Alternatively, simply have a builder build a wall behind the door, totally preventing manhunters from entering even if they break the door.

=== Scavenging dead animals ===

Manhunter packs are a good source of [[meat]] for your colony, especially if you're low on food. If there are still maddened animals, wait until the other animals from the pack go to sleep, walk away far enough, or get a fast colonist to try and haul the dead ones away.

== Infestations ==

[[Infestation]]s will spawn under Overhead Mountains within 30 tiles of a colony [[structure]]. They can be a serious hazard in mountain bases due to the lack of free space to run away from with too many obstacles on the path, but not so much threat in open area (flat) maps. [[Insectoids]] are lightly armored, exclusively use melee and are slower than colonists. This gives them some protection against close range attacks, but leaves them vulnerable to ranged attacks and kiting tactics.

[[File:Infestation within mountain rooms bugs.png|400px]]

'''If you don't destroy them fast enough, they can reproduce, giving rise to even more hives and insects'''. This is especially true if you happen to have forgotten about a [[hive]], which given time can build itself into a giant mega-hive.

=== Behavior ===

Insects have a hive mindset; they will remain tending to their hive cluster, until they see an intruder, in which case they begin to engage all at once. They may also attack random furniture and structures in your colony.

=== Fighting infestations ===

The enclosed nature of mountain bases give colonists little distance to shoot from; thus, you may want some melee fighters to pair up with any ranged colonists.

Individual fighters will quickly get overwhelmed by the insects especially against large [[megaspider]]s, so you shouldn't trickle your defensive forces in; rather, send them all at once to overpower the insects.

=== Melee blocking ===

If there is a single choke point for the insects to get into your base (usually a door leading to a corridor), usage of this tactic allows you to defeat insects efficiently. You may even stand a chance against massive infestations if for some reason fire isn't viable, but don't get cocky. If the infestation is large you will need to bring backup tanks to replace the initial melee blocker if he or she gets downed or heavily injured.

Choke points can arise on their own from insects digging out; simply wait for them to tunnel through and massacre them once they exit.

This tactic is only viable if you have enough soldiers with ''substantial'' armor as insects inflict heavy sharp damage and will obliterate everybody not sufficiently protected.

=== Using fire ===

Fire is an effective way to clear early-mid stage infestations. If they spawn in an enclosed area with a door and plenty of flammables, all you need to do is to toss a molotov or shoot an [[incendiary launcher]] bolt into the room. The room will quickly catch fire, causing the temperature to rise fast, roasting the insects in it along with the hives.

The downside of this approach is that it makes it impossible to farm any insect meat or jelly from the infestation, because it will all burn, and it is usually too hot inside the spawn room to manually extinguish the fires to save the goods (unless there is a way to quickly vent the heat, which is usually not feasible to set up).

If there is a dedicated place in your base for infestations to spawn (see ''baiting'' below), it helps to have a few cheap wooden furniture items in that room, and maybe a few tiles of wooden floor. A great source of additional flammable material are tainted clothing items and desiccated animal bodies. Dusters and parkas have a lot of hitpoints, so they burn longer. These items are easy to get into the burn room simply by creating a stockpile with appropriate settings. A 3x3 stockpile should be more than enough to create enough heat to clear out any infestation. The fire created will usually last several hours, which is more than enough time to kill everything in the spawn room.

Separating the actual spawn room from the burn room with a wooden door makes it very easy for your colonists to start the fire without the insects attacking. The heat will spread into the spawn room regardless (and burn the wooden door).

Having a few flammable structures, such as cheap furniture) in the room is important, because the insects are stupid enough to attack these first when enraged from the fire, wasting time — instead of digging out of this trap.

It is possible to reach the temperature maximum of 2000 degrees celsius this way. Check the temperature in the spawn room before stepping in with any colonists, because they will very quickly collapse from heat stroke and possibly catch fire and die at these ludicrous temperatures.

The insects will rush for the exit of the burn room in a panic when they realize what is happening to them, and will quickly attempt to dig out to escape, so make sure the exit door is made of rock which is durable and nonflammable.

If there aren't any flammables around, you can still shoot the hives with fire weaponry. They will light aflame, along with the fuel puddles created on the ground.

As any items inside the room are likely to catch fire and be destroyed, this tactic is not recommended in a place with many valuables such as warehouses. Also be careful with the heat spreading to nearby rooms.

=== Explosives ===

Explosives are useful against large infestations. The [[Triple rocket launcher]] can raze infestations instantly. A single use [[Doomsday rocket launcher]] will deal massive damage over a large area. [[Frag grenades]] are unlimited and work well if you have the courage to send someone to close range. One blast can get several insects. 
Explosive animals ([[boomalope]]s or [[boomrat]]s) are also effective at clearing out infestations. Have them march straight into the hive by zoning them there. When the insects attack, the animals will be injured and explode, setting the insects and hives on fire.

Mortars are useless against the hives themselves as they can't hit anything below an overhead mountain. However they are an option when fighting the insects in open space, with the explosions capable of severely injuring the insects, taking out the smaller ones in 1-2 hits.

=== Late-stage infestations ===

<gallery widths="500px" heights="400px" class="center" mode="nolines">
File:Infestation_ancient_shrine.png
</gallery>

If you've accidentally left a hive or two behind or totally ignored an infestation, after a few seasons you will have a giant hive community sprawling. This is '''extremely''' hard to treat, especially if you're low on colonists.

If you're still on early-midgame, it's generally recommended that you pack up and run. If not, however, you will have to deal with them slowly. You need to lure the insects out, then defeat them to buy time for others to enter and destroy the hives. Kiting is a possibility due to their slower speeds, provided they continue to chase down your colonists.

Explosives are recommended as they deal immense damage to the closely packed hives and insects. This is especially so with the doomsday rocket launcher, which can set entire infestations on fire, destroying the hives and severely weakening the insects.

=== Prevention ===

If you only have a few tiles of Overhead Mountain then it's best that you fill it up with walls to prevent any infestations from happening. If you are in a mountain base, then you will need to do more than that.

==== Baiting ====

You can mine out rooms a distance away from your colony to somehow control insects to nest there, instead of letting them spawn right in the middle of your base. Place some cheap flammable furniture inside to confuse the insects into thinking it's a prospective nesting spot, as well as to light on fire for a quick solution to an infestation problem.

A well-lit base discourages insects from nesting, though it can still happen. If you bait insects to spawn elsewhere the chance of an infestation spawning inside is greatly reduced.

If you want the insect trap to automatically kill insects, put an [[IED incendiary trap]] inside the room, next to the flammables. Once an infestation spawns the insects will trigger the trap, lighting the room on fire and broiling the insects.

Alternatively, fill it with a few deadfall traps to weaken them before they strike your base, giving you the advantage. It also preserves the hives, which can be either good or bad.

==== Deep freezing ====

An interesting way to completely prevent infestations is to simply set your base temperature below -17°C with coolers, and have everyone in the colony wear [[parka]]s.

This means that the 'Slept in the cold' debuff will be prevalent in the colony, however, so you will need something to offset the mood. It will also incur a work speed penalty on all production facilities due to low temperature, making this strategy not very viable on all but the lowest difficulties (where infestations are not a big threat in any case).

=== Deep drill infestations ===

Deep drills can unearth insect hives, which will result in enraged insects charging up to attack after a while.

When you see this happen, gather up your defense forces to fight the incoming insects. Have them approach your base where you can melee block them while evacuating other colonists so the insects don't go for them first. Nearby pets or other tamed animals will also be attacked; you can either evacuate them beforehand to reduce losses and ensure a successful melee blocking attack, or use them as bait to grab the insects' attention while your colonists lay fire on them.

Note that if you have a deep drill near the walls of a room it is possible for the insects to spawn outside the room.

== Prison breaks ==
If you have prisoners (or potential colonists or hats) on hand, always expect them to break out any time. This is more so if you have many of them, each one ready to incite a riot whenever the guards aren't looking.

Escaping prisoners can open any colony door, and will snatch weapons whenever they see one.

=== Strategy ===
You should [[#body block|body block the prisoners]] with armored wardens carrying blunt weapons, or melee attacks with guns. They will fight and down the prisoners while blocking their exit, buying time for reinforcements.

Against already injured yet unarmed prisoners, send 1 brawler per prisoner to minimize the risk of beating them to death. 
For those at full health, 2 unarmed wardens or 1 skilled one can tackle a full-health unarmed prisoner without the wardens being downed in most cases.

Ranged wardens should attack when the prisoners are blocked by melee wardens so they can attack from a distance without much danger, and their weapons won't land in the enemy hands so easily. Don't fire too much at them as you risk permanent damage as well as accidentally killing the prisoner.

=== Weapons ===
You goal here isn't to kill the prisoners, it's to down them so you can recapture them.

*Blunt melee weapons such as the [[mace]] is a good choice for wardens to down escapees. The wounds don't bleed (unless you crush an internal organ or destroy a part entirely), nor will they be infected, giving them higher survival chances overall.
*At a distance, use low-moderate DPS weapons that won't deal too much damage to the prisoners, or to your people when the prisoners pick them up.
*Don't use high damage per hit weapons such as [[sniper rifle]]s or [[longsword]]s, as you risk instantly killing them or destroying an important part.

=== Turrets ===

Mini-turrets can be used as a form of distraction and supplementary firepower against prison breaks. Station them outside the prison doors, and they will fire on the escapees. They deliver decent firepower at short ranges, and leave no usable weapons on destruction. Prisoners also tend to stop to fight the turrets, giving wardens time to reach them.

1-3 are enough for most prisons. Don't put too many otherwise they may kill the prisoners before you can intervene.

== Caravan ambushes ==

Defensive battles don't always happen at base. Sometimes it may happen far away from it, striking one of your caravans, perhaps loaded with plenty of silver. Or maybe they creep to your traders and demand ransom, which you don't feel like paying. You always need to be prepared for ambushes when you send out caravans.

=== Escort ===

In any cargo-carrying caravan, sending only 1-2 colonists is usually not advised except in very short-distance trips as they will not be able to fend off an ambush. In this case, have combat-capable escort members which can fight and carry items, as well as medics who will patch up your colonists after battles.

If you have lots of attack animals, you can also send just 1 skilled handler with the attack animals. They can swarm any attackers, and you can leave colonists back at base for work. Remember to take into account the animals' food needs; grazing animals work best for this reason.

If you are not carrying much besides a lone colonist, leaving him to go alone is helpful as lone colonists are hard to detect, reducing both the likelihood and the power of ambushes. A single colonist with a pack animal trained to obedience should be able to fend off most attackers.

=== Ambush site ===

The ambush site is small, restricting the space where you can conduct your battle. This renders many tactics obsolete, such as long-ranged sniping or kiting. You will often have to face off the enemy in a direct gunfight or brawl.

Besides this, you can't escape the fight until it's over, leaving no choice but to fight back.

=== Cover and positioning ===

[[File:Ambush_fight.png|600px|thumb|right|Excellent defensive position against ambushes. Colonists behind walls will enjoy up to 75% full cover, while pirates will only receive 25% at most. Two brawlers are ready to execute a melee sortie, while another is ready to [[#Peeling|peel]] for the gunners. Combined with good equipment, this allows the fight to be won with few injuries even when outnumbered.]]

You should be hiding behind walls for cover if possible, as they provide up to 75% cover, but if they are not available, hide behind rock chunks or trees. Space out your defenders to reduce the amount of collateral damage the pirates deal.

If you have time, go somewhere where there is cover for you, but not the enemy. This gives you a significant upper hand in defensive battles.

Melee sorties or rushes work well if you have brawlers for they can traverse the short distances.

=== Items ===
You will need to bring some items so you can be prepared for a surprise attack.

==== Weapons ====
You usually don't have weapons to switch in a caravan unless you're bringing more than you need with you, so choosing the right weapons for your escort party is important.

*High-DPS weapons are optimal for dealing with ambushes.
*Long-ranged weapons are good for taking down targets at medium-long range, however their low DPS may offset their range advantage in an ambush.
*[[Minigun]]s are good against tightly-packed raiders hiding behind cover in an ambush. However, their heavy weight and movement speed reduction means you may want to reconsider bringing one.
*Melee weapons can help fight off enemy brawlers, or disrupt enemies behind cover. You should have at least 1 melee fighter in each escort.

==== Medicine ====
You should have some medicine handy so your colonists can patch themselves up after the battle.

[[Medicine]] should be your choice here; you should try to get good treatment to reduce chance of infection, as colonists don't get much rest in a caravan. [[Herbal medicine]] is useful if you have a good doctor on hand.

=== Aftermath ===

You can reform the caravan immediately after the battle is ended; you can bring along any downed colonists, as well as capture downed enemies. The caravan members will tend to themselves shortly afterwards.

Alternatively, you can stay and forage from the ambush map before you leave.

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[[Category:Guides]]

Defense tactics

2020-05-14T07:37:32Z

Mayoculpa: /* Strategic zoning */ added images to illustrate aggressive zoning

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{{for|defensive constructions against threats|Defense structures}}

Getting attacked, whether by tribals, pirates or hordes of angry animals is a common event in the rimworlds. Defense against these attacks is one of the keys to having a successful colony.

This page details different tactics for defense and visualizations of them, applicable to most stages of the game.

== Raiders ==

=== Behavior ===

[[Raider]]s will attack randomly chosen constructed objects, colonists and colony [[animals]]. They will not attack natural rock walls (not the case for sappers), non-hostile wild animals or unpowered turrets. They will also attack [[prisoner]]s if they are captured from their enemy factions.

They usually set fire to crops in growing zones, [[power]] generation or conduits, and other production buildings. They will melee attack furniture, doors and walls. They also use thrown explosives on structures, and some use [[EMP grenades]] to stun your turrets.

Raiders will prioritise firing on colonists or turrets that are actively engaging, but will otherwise attack random objects, meaning you can put doors or walls near your defenses to temporarily distract them.

If humanlike non-mechanoid raiders are unable to defeat your colony in time, they may give up. Normal raiders will give up between {{ticks|26000}} to {{ticks|38000}} after the raid begins, while sappers will give up between {{ticks|33000}} to {{ticks|38000}} after they begin the attack.

=== Preparation ===

Humanlike raiders will sometimes start by standing around in a group where they spawned and will continue this until they see a [[colonist]] nearby or they hit a certain preparation time limit, at which point they begin the assault. Because a colonist can set them off early, you can plan out the time you want them to attack.

=== Equipment ===

Raiders spawn with randomized equipment depending on their weapon and clothing budget and their raider type.

==== Apparel ====

[[Raiders|Pirates]] can range from only wearing a tattered pair of [[pants]] to [[armor vest]]s to full sets of [[power armor]]. [[Raider#Mercenaries|Mercenary slashers]] will always come in [[shield belt]]s and only they do so. 
Tribals always come in [[tribalwear]], with some in [[war mask]]s or [[war veil]]s.

In cold environments, both will come in wearing [[parka]]s or [[tuque]]s, protecting them from temperatures of around -40 to -50°C, sometimes up to -110°C if they wear wool parkas. They don't usually come in wearing [[duster]]s or [[cowboy hat]]s in hot areas, making them vulnerable to the heat.

They tend to wear leather, [[cloth]] or [[synthread]] clothes, which don't provide good protection, and less commonly the more protective [[devilstrand]] or [[hyperweave]].

While mid-late game pirates usually come with around 40% - 60% sharp protection, with quality apparel you can push yours to have more than 100%, giving you the upper hand.

==== Weapons ====

Pirates spawn with most weapons in the game, whatever their faction is willing to provide them.
 Tribals usually come equipped with primitive weapons, but can sometimes be seen with captured high-quality melee weapons as well.

For the most part, weapons are assigned at random, meaning that more often than not raiders don't get to use a weapon appropriate for their skills; brawlers can often be seen charging into battle with a gun and a -20 mood penalty, supported by skilled shooters which try to shoot with a melee weapon before giving up and charging in. 
However, some classes of raider always come with the same (category of) weapon. For example, mercenary snipers always use sniper rifles, grenadiers wield some form of thrown explosive and tribal archers always use neolithic ranged weaponry.

If you have your colonists equip suitable weapons according to their skills, you already have an advantage over the raiders over this point.

==== Drugs ====

Pirates or Outlanders may utilize some form of combat-enhancing drug, namely [[go-juice]], [[yayo]] and [[luciferium]]. They will usually start off addicted to them, and will carry some in their inventory which is dropped upon death. They may also use multiple drugs, disregarding the risk of overdose.

These can reduce the amount of the pain received, making the raider last longer in battle before going down. Increased movement speed also allow raiders to get into position earlier, and brawlers to harass your defenders more easily.

*[[Go-juice]] is an excellent combat drug that makes the raider much more efficient in battle. It eliminates 90% of pain, gives a 30% movement speed buff, and a 10% consciousness buff for more accuracy. The raider is almost guaranteed to fight until death, or the rarer case of incapacitation through a shattered spine, severe brain damage or removal of both legs.
**It's almost always more worth it to use body part-destroying weapons such as the [[Sniper rifle]] to kill them, as Go-juice does not reduce the actual damage they take.
*[[Yayo]] grants a 15% buff to speed and eliminates half of pain received. Enemies under the effect of yayo are more durable against damage not concentrated on a vital body part
**It will take more hits to down them, and more likely the raider dies first due to lethal damage, but is still possible.
*[[Luciferium]] grants a wide range of buffs to the user, from increased organ function, to slight movement speed and consciousness buffs, to reduced pain.
**It's more troublesome to capture addicted raiders since you'll need to regularly feed them luciferium to sustain their lives, which is very expensive and hard to come by -- it's usually more worthwhile to just strip and finish them on the spot.

== Core battle tactics ==

No matter what sort of defenses you use, these battle tactics may be useful.

=== Melee tactics ===

Melee soldiers are a useful asset in your colonies, if used correctly. They can bring disruption against ranged enemies, because being engaged in melee interrupts and prevents ranged attacks, and staggers the enemy thus slowing movement. Ranged enemies are also forced to fight back with makeshift melee attacks with their guns, which are woefully inadequate against a dedicated brawler.

In addition, melee soldiers can fend off invading brawlers charging into your lines, or beat up drop podding enemies.

[[Shield belt]]s and good armor is usually necessary for you colonists to close the gap between you and the enemy. Melee attackers without the protection of shields are highly vulnerable to gunfire, even if heavily armored. Before battle, hide your melee attackers until all enemy melee attackers are engaged in battle, or put them in line in front of your gunners for quick deployment and damage absorption.

Friendly fire is a serious issue in hand-to-hand combat, as you can easily hit your own fighters. While it is still a bearable problem if their shields are up, once the shields are down you will need to manually retarget to prevent friendly fire.

==== Melee sortie ====

This tactic involves using a small element of melee colonists to charge enemy ranged attackers and take the heat off your own gunners.

Can be used to take down annoying long-ranged snipers or small gunner groups. Note that charging at entrenched ranged attackers can also divert their attention from your own entrenched forces to your charging brawlers.

==== Melee rush ====

Melee rushing is the tactic of sending your melee attackers to engage hostiles all at once, rather than focusing on shooting them down or sending small parties to take down troublesome enemies.

Melee rushes can work alone, especially with quality equipment; well-equipped melee rushes can hold off an attack and cause raiders to flee despite being slightly outnumbered. They also attract a great deal of friendly fire from the enemy, as they try to shoot down your brawlers, hitting their allies in the process.

If you aren't afraid of friendly fire, it can be combined with a firing squad from a distance for devastating effects. The brawlers cause chaos within the raiding party while the firing squad lays fire to destroy them while the raiders are trying to cope with your brawlers.

Note that enemy melee rushes are not to be countered by your own melee rush; there is a [[#Melee blocking|much more effective tactic]] detailed below.

==== Peeling ====

If a vulnerable gunner is under attack by melee attackers, you can 'peel' them away using your brawlers. Have them engage the melee attackers, who will then focus on your brawlers, allowing your gunner to get to relative safety.

Trained animals automatically peel for their assigned masters, if 'Release animals' is Off. The animals will attack any hostiles coming close rather than straying off to attack distant targets. 
Setting 'Release animals' to On right when another colonist in distress near the trainer causes the animals to swarm the attacker, peeling them off.

Peeling is a relatively high-risk activity, as you are trying to put a pawn at risk in return for allowing a pawn at greater risk to escape. Peeling pawns should be expendable or decently armored.

==== Self-defense ====

Even though they aren't as good as dedicated melee weapons, guns still hurt in melee combat, even surpassing some low-quality melee weapons. This allows shooters to have a fighting chance against melee enemies.

Shooters can fight off small animals quite easily with melee, so have them fight back instead of letting the animal chew them to death.

Melee attacks with guns are a viable alternative if your colonists are adept at melee combat and the guns don't fare well at touch range. Since they don't usually emerge victorious from a 1v1 melee fight unless there is a massive skill gap, have someone else join in the fray, be it a brawler or gunner. 

=== Body blocking ===

[[File:Bodyblock_choke.png|250px|thumb|right|You shall not pass.]]

Enemies can be physically blocked by colonists or animals, denying them access to locations. This can be done to a significant tactical advantage.

Heavily armored soldiers are needed to body block active combatants, as they will take a lot of hits while blocking, and even so they will eventually collapse due to sustained damage. They should also be able to deal good damage at point-blank.

Blocking can be used to slow down prison breaks, seal off escape routes for enemies, or more aggressively to devastate melee only raids, detailed below.

==== Melee blocking ====

When faced with a full melee attack, instead of engaging enemies on the frontline, '''retreat behind your walls, and open doors to use as chokepoints'''. Leave up to '''three''' melee brawlers standing right behind (not in) the chokepoint to block enemies while cutting them down, stationing more nearby as replacements, and gunners behind to fire on the blocked intruders. This forces melee enemies to trickle in and fight with your soldiers one-by-one, making them significantly easier to dispatch of. Make sure all brawlers are heavily armored to block damage, and shielded to block friendly fire.

Stray bullets will not harm your tanks if the shooter is not standing too far behind; that means it is not a good idea to use long-range fire.

This is a horribly effective way to defeat melee attacks. Compared to a regular frontline defense, this tactic significantly reduces the casualties your side will sustain. You also don't need to build anything special for this purpose- any opening or door in the wall will do. If you use [[killbox]]es then it's best that you build it in a way such that melee blocking attacks can be conducted effectively inside.

For maximum pain, use high-DPS guns for your backline for bringing the hurt, combined with quality melee for your frontline to deal sustained damage in between barrages.
*The [[chain shotgun]] or [[heavy SMG]] are the weapons of choice in this situation due to their unparalleled close-range DPS.
*Miniguns, while effective at shredding the tightly packed enemies behind the chokepoint, are generally not recommended due to the collateral damage to the walls. If you do choose to use them, aim at the middle of the crowd so you can hit as many enemies as possible, while also reducing the damage done to the walls.

Combined with measures to force enemies into close range, it may be effective against ranged enemies as well, but beware as enemies can still fire until you start beating them up.

<gallery widths="400px" heights="400px" class="center" mode="nolines">
File:Melee_test_eleplants_normal.png|10 manhunter elephants vs 3 armored brawlers and 4 armored gunners; all colonists are downed while all elephants remain standing.
File:Melee_test_eleplants_block.png|Same situation but with melee blocking; only 1 colonist downed, and all elephants defeated. Note that even with the center brawler downed, the remaining brawlers can continue to block by forcibly engaging enemies in melee.
</gallery>

=== Spacing out ===

Each colonist should ideally stand '''at least 1 tile away from other colonists''', thus reducing the chance of enemy bullets hitting somebody else after missing the original target, which deals a lot of damage to static grouped up defenders.

Explosives will also hit fewer people this way, though there are better countermeasures than simply spacing defenders apart.

=== Dealing with rockets ===

Rocket launchers are painful to deal with, due to the huge area damage and long range. In the mid-late game they are one of the biggest threats from the enemy. 
The best way to deal with them is to distract them to fire elsewhere, in order to greatly reduce the amount of damage received.

Raiders with rocket launchers are often seen in the backline preparing their rockets, while their allies lay down fire at the front. They get distracted quite easily, wasting them on animals or lone colonists. This can be exploited simply by '''charging them with single units''', which will cause them to fire it towards them and away from the rest of your forces. They may fire at point-blank, injuring themselves and their comrades, or with some luck in positioning and fast melee units, you can even intercept them before they can lock on with their rocket launcher, forcing them into hand-to-hand combat and eventually yielding the launcher which can be captured for future use.

This is a high-risk but necessary move to take, and some pawns may need to be sacrificed.

For successful distraction, you have to make your charging units the only available targets for them to consider attacking. If they have a better target with less possible friendly fire, they may attack them instead. To combat this, have all your other units, including animals, stay completely out of range until the rocket launchers have been neutralized.

==== Shielded unit deployment ====

Deploy brawlers equipped with [[shield belt]]s and heavy armor, letting the shields block the blast as well as some fire. There are two variations of this:
#Move in a zigzag pattern in front of the enemy to draw their attention, and dodge the rockets when they are discharged.
#Directly charge into the fray with your shielded fighters, such that any rockets fired at them will likely hit other enemies as well.

Be prepared to sacrifice someone, as their shields are very likely to be broken whether by the blasts or concentrated gunfire.

==== Expendable animal charge ====

Have animals that are both expendable and fast charge the enemy, rocket soldiers included. It's especially good if the animals can survive a rocket blast, as it allows them to continue distracting any further rockets.

For multiple rocket launchers, send animals in batches, such as by assigning animals to different handlers and setting them to attack at different times, to prevent them from being wiped out by a single blast.

While they do not need to be obedience- or release-trained, as you can use animal area zones to force them into areas, doing so is less effective as animals have a delay before moving into their assigned zones and may be very far away.

==== Friendly fire with rockets ====

Besides being caught in a blast, enemies can also take friendly fire if the rockets impact them instead of your colonists.

You can increase the chance of this happening by having the rocket travel over as many enemies as possible through aligning your distractors. Each rocket travelling over a pawn has up to 40% chance to impact, setting it off early.

If you see that an enemy rocketeer has locked onto a brawler, you can also choose to charge the enemy with that brawler. It will either cause the enemy to deal immense friendly fire, or allow you to take out the rocketeer outright.

==== Killbox tactics ====

Rockets are much more dangerous in a killbox where colonists and turrets are closely bunched together. If you're unlucky, a rocket will set off turret explosions, causing additional damage. Rocketeers are a priority target that need to be rapidly eliminated as soon as they enter.

However, killboxes do provide 2 crucial advantages: range restriction and concentrated fire. This allows you to direct concentrated fire onto the rocketeers to neutralize them rapidly.

=== Rescue ===

When a colonist is downed or severely injured, it's best to drag them out of the fight immediately. Don't leave them there otherwise they risk dying from stray bullets or blood loss. You don't really need to send them directly to hospital; just drop them off somewhere outside of active combat.

Colonists lying outside cover are riskier to rescue. Choose the right time to pull them out, using your best-protected colonists, and don't let anyone near at other times.

Non-combatants should serve as rescue members by standing near a fight to pull out downed colonists. Non-combatant doctors can alternatively be drafted to stand near the medicine storage to allow them to quickly grab medicine for treatment.

Evacuating colonists away from the downed prevents them from receiving further fire until being rescued.

If a colonist cannot reach the hospital in time (~2 hours from death or less), have them immediately lie down at a temporary sleeping spot safely outside the battlefield, then have the doctor closest to the medicine storage go and treat the colonist ASAP, or treat them on the spot by setting treatment to doctor care only. Patch colonists up a little such that they can reach the hospital without bleeding out, then carry them there. You will have a higher infection chance this way, but it's better than the colonist bleeding to death while on their way to the hospital.

=== Friendly fire management ===

Friendly fire is a serious issue when facing close-range attackers, especially manhunter packs. If they manage to run past your barrage of gunfire to engage your ranged soldiers, they may receive more injuries from friendly fire in the ensuing chaos than the attackers themselves. You need to be careful when directing your troops so you don't hit your own forces by accident.

Pawns can fire over the shoulders of friendlies up to 2 tiles (i.e. 1-tile space in between) away, meaning that you can have a 3-wide row of soldiers without friendly fire, which is not recommended.

# When the enemy breaks the ranks, only let the soldiers closest to melee attackers fire at them.
#*Manually re-target the others to fire at another direction, repositioning them if needed.
# Disable 'Fire at will' when the enemies are closing in so they won't switch targets, potentially causing friendly fire.
# Have only 1 line of shooters so stray bullets, including bullets fired horizontally at melee attackers, will less likely hit someone.

=== Firing at cover ===

While cover works best against attacks coming straight, it's usually better to fire straight at the target instead of from an angle. If you fire straight at it, only 1 unit of cover will be effective, but if you shoot at a diagonal angle, 2 units of cover will be effective, both being capable of blocking shots, in total contributing to higher cover effectiveness.

However, if you can get to the point where you're almost firing horizontally at the raiders, then cover becomes nearly ineffective at protecting the raider, allowing many more shots to connect. This often requires you get out of your own cover, so it's not recommended unless you can find suitable cover nearby.

For skilled medium-long range shooters it's best to shoot from a great angle to hit them from the sides. 
However for not-so-good or short ranged shooters it's better to directly fire at them instead as the extra distance will make it harder to land hits, or cause the raider to exit firing range.

'''The below shows the difference firing angle makes on the hit chance of a pawn hiding behind cover.''' Cover values are from Alpha 16, but the mechanics remains unchanged.

<gallery widths="400px" heights="400px" class="center" mode="nolines">
File:Fire_cover_straight.png|Firing straight at a raider in cover; 1 stone chunk blocks 40%.
File:Fire_cover_angled1.png|Firing at an angle; 2 stone chunks block 48% total.
</gallery>
<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" class="center" mode="nolines">
File:Fire_cover_angled2.png|Firing at a greater angle; 2 stone chunks block 37% total.
File:Fire_cover_angled3.png|Firing almost horizontally; 1 granite chunk blocks 8% only.
</gallery>

== Mobile warfare ==

=== Flanking and Surrounding ===

To flank enemies, have some defenders approach enemies from the sides or the back instead of concentrating fire on the front. To surround them, attack from all sides.

Enemy ranged units often stay in the same spot when engaging your colonists, and they tend to have effective cover facing one direction only, making them vulnerable to flanking. Flanking enemy ranged units can distract them and cause them to lose their cover advantage with attacks coming from multiple sides. While this makes you lose the advantage of high-quality cover, it is balanced out by the enemy's loss of cover.

This works best against entrenched ranged enemies attacking you from one side. They should be occupied with attacking frontal targets so you can creep up to them to unload lead on them from another angle. It's even better if you pair with melee to tie them up, buying time for your soldiers to get into position and preventing them from moving into new positions.

Rounding up any fleeing survivors also becomes easier if you have someone (especially melee fighters) blocking off escapes from behind.

==== Moving in ====

While moving in you need to make sure you stay far enough away from enemies, and directly right-clicking on the destination will nearly always result in a path that crosses with the enemy.

This can be overcome by '''shift-clicking to form a path for the pawn to follow''', making sure to keep sufficient distance.

Shield belts, drawing enemy fire from a different direction, or simply using walls and terrain to block projectiles are all good ways to move in.

==== Wide arc flank ====

This tactic is about scattering your fighters in a wide arc facing your enemies. Rather than huddling together behind continuous lines of cover such as lines of rock chunks, each soldier should be taking cover on their own, and be able to shoot straight at the enemy without anyone else in between.

This gives more flexibility in positioning as well as greatly reduced vulnerability against explosives or collateral damage. Engaging your flankers also results in enemy fire being scattered, so focus fire won't take down anyone easily.

You can deploy shielded colonists to draw fire effectively from your gunners, though they need to be arranged carefully so as to be able to tank without taking friendly fire.

Perfect against preparation raids or in-construction siege camps when you can't use your static cover and they won't directly attack your base upon arrival. However if the enemy has a significant cover advantage (such as sandbags) then this tactic may not work out in your favor.

=== Tanking ===

This tactic simply requires you put your shielded colonists before your static gunners to partially soak up gunfire. This is best when you have insufficient cover, or additional cover to block more bullets for your frontline tanks.

As with any tactic involving meat shields, this poses a great risk to colonists' lives. If the colonists' shields are downed and they are not well-armored, you will have to get them to retreat behind cover until their shields come back online, otherwise your colonist will be exposed to ruthless gunfire.

Beware of high damage-per-hit weapons which can instantly down shields.

=== Hit and run ===
Against slow or static targets you can employ this to weaken them. You will need several fast-moving long-ranged colonists, possibly with [[charge lance]]s or [[bolt-action rifle]]s. Have them move within range to fire, quickly exiting range once the enemy returns fire. Repeat until conditions are no longer safe to conduct this attack, such as enemies entering full aggression and charging.

Effective against siege camps and preparing raiders for they tend to stay put at their location until they are aggravated into attacking.

=== Kiting ===
This risky and situational tactic is effective when employed correctly.

It involves the use of fast colonists (with 120-140% or more Moving) running near moving enemies to gain their attention. Constantly outrun them while staying within their attention range, if not the enemy will engage other targets instead. After running far enough, fire a few shots at them before running again. This way, kiters can distract a group of enemies by leading them around the map, while chipping away at their health.

As long as your colonist safely outruns hostiles, you're fine. However, if the enemy catches up, your colonist will be slowed and on his own.

====Equipment====
A fast, long-range weapon is safest (e.g. [[assault rifle]]), while a fast moderate-range weapon (e.g. [[machine pistol]]) may be used but is riskier. Slow weapons such as sniper rifles are not recommended as the need to stand still for extended periods puts soldiers in grave danger.

Kiting colonists should be lightly armored while still maintaining a fast speed.

== Additional tactics ==

=== Baiting ===

Faster, more well-protected colonists can be used to lead enemies into traps or ambushes. This is for situations when you have defenses concentrated in one direction, but the enemy comes from another.

[[File:Bait tables 2.jpg|250px|thumb|right|Setting the bait furniture on fire only hastened this raider's demise.]]

Cheap furniture also makes good bait. Raiders will smash any player-built furniture left out in the open, such as tables or wooden stools. This can be helpful to split them up or lure them into range of your defenders' weapons.

=== Luring in ===

Enemies can be lured closer to your base by keeping your colonists out of sight, then swarming out to attack once they draw closer to your base. Afterwards they will switch to engage your defenders.

This can be used to negate the range advantage of enemies. It also works well with melee blocking to lure enemies into trying to jam themselves into your chokepoints, rather than beating up your base.

=== Animals ===

The animals on the map, tamed or not, can be used to your advantage.

Raiders never come using tamed animals so the advantage of animals on your side is solely yours.

==== Tamed animal release ====

With your handlers, you can amass a huge army of animals to charge the enemy. Simply find a good combat-capable animal, tame it, and train it to learn Release.

There are many animals that are good for this purpose.
#[[Wild boar]]s are an excellent choice as they can graze, reproduce quickly, move fast and pack a punch.
#[[Squirrel]]s are a surprisingly good choice despite their low DPS and health; they are exceedingly fast and small, making them hard to hit, as well as reproduce fast.
#If you like bigger animals, you can also tame [[elephant]]s or [[rhinoceros|rhino]]s.
#[[Boomrat]]s are a suitable choice if you want an army of suicide bombers. [[Boomalope]]s are trickier to handle; though they are larger, slower and easier to hit, once they get into position their large explosions can hit a group of enemies at once.

Tamed animals also cause pirates to fire near their allies in a bid to get them off their allies, potentially causing friendly fire.

==== Meat shield ====
The animals surrounding a handler can be used as a convenient meat shield as they take bullets, arrows and other projectiles (but not explosions) for their master. Provided they don't stray too far, they won't receive friendly fire as the shooters simply fire over them. All you need is to train Obedience, instead of Release.

==== Strategic zoning ====
Raiders take their sweet time to exterminate any trace of your tamed animals on the map. This can be exploited to your advantage, as long as you're willing to have a few animals valiantly sacrifice themselves.

*'''Distraction''': If you let your animals run all over the place, raiders may be tied up trying to wipe out the animals. This can give your colonists time to prepare, such as entering defensive positions or running to your mortars to fire a few rounds, as well as scatter the raiders making them easier to deal with. Raiders wielding rocket launchers also tend to waste them on your animals, leaving your colonists and structures mostly unharmed. However if they see better targets they will come at them instead.
*'''Direct offense''': Besides distraction, animals may also engage raiders, harming or killing them.
*'''Manipulation''': Animals can be moved around without the need of training Release, simply by changing the allowed zone of your animals. A short time later, the animals will move towards the zone and stay there. When animals are sleeping you can put animal sleeping spots beneath them and then remove them to wake them up.
**'''Aggressive zoning''': Zone animals in a place where you are expecting an encounter with enemies. Enemies will notice the animals and will start attacking, making them fight back and injure or even down the attackers. This method works for any animal, even those that cannot be trained. Remember to undo the zoning otherwise the animals may starve. [[Boomalope]]s and [[boomrat]]s are especially useful by causing explosions, setting raiders on fire and delaying their assault.

[[File:Strategic zoning 1.jpg|thumb|center|Zoning untrained animals around a ship part.]]

[[File:Strategic zoning 2.jpg|thumb|center|Mechanoids targeted nearby animals instead of colonists. Boomalope death explosions caused significant damage.]]

**'''Animal chokepoint''': Zone the animals in a chokepoint, creating a dense cluster.
***This is vulnerable to AoE weaponry so increase the area of the zone to make it that animals don't get too tightly together, if the enemy has explosives.

==== Aggravating animals ====
If you have any easily enraged wild animals ([[emu]]s, [[thrumbo]]s, etc) standing near the enemy, you can shoot them to anger them and make them charge at the enemy.

You can also opt to enrage an animal then have a fast colonist (>130% Moving) lead it towards the enemy. Some enemies will stop and engage the animal, potentially causing it to switch targets. For quite the obvious reasons it's best to equip a shield belt on the kiting colonist if he isn't the one enraging the animal.

For this, larger animals are best due to their high health and damage. A thrumbo can be considered a godsend in a raid; just send 1 straight into the raider hordes, and let 'er rip. 
Smaller animals are faster and hard to hit, making them decent distraction and causing a hefty amount of friendly fire among the enemy as well.

Remember, if you can down the animal easily with colonists, so can the raiders.

=== Base scattering ===

This is a '''last-ditch tactic to defeat humanlike enemies''' if you are significantly outnumbered.

Instead of engaging them right away, let enemies scatter around the base first. After they scatter widely apart, divide and conquer, using large groups of soldiers to overcome them with ease, while others are busy demolishing other parts of your base.

Remember to patch up the base after the damage done. Coolers are especially tricky as they serve as weak points and are expensive.

=== Outside help ===

If the [[AI Storytellers|storyteller]] is feeling somewhat merciful, outside help may come to save the day.

Don't count on this however, as these rarely happen on their own, and most of the time you still need to fend off the raiders yourself.

==== Friendly reinforcements ====

Occasionally while hostiles are on the map, a friendly military caravan will come to bolster your defenses. The threats may also coincide with friendly trade caravans, visitors or passersby, who will help to engage a common enemy.

This requires you be already allied with some factions, so that they will send help of meaningful value; otherwise they may just send a few people who will quickly get downed and serve no purpose other than distraction.

Besides actual assistance, traders may also come with around 550 - 1000 points, enough to hold their own against a smaller raid. This allows you to have decent fire support around half the time, simply by calling in 1 trade caravan once every day (assuming alliances with all 4 non-pirate factions). It costs goodwill (or silver pre-0.19) but allows you to trade, as well.

You may also call for additional help from allied outlanders at a cost of -20 goodwill (tribals are unable to send help due to technological limitations). This can be repaired by diplomatic gifts, or rescuing and treating downed friendlies.

==== Common enemy ====

If mechanoids, manhunters or another enemy faction show up, raiders may stop to engage them. This causes losses to both groups of enemies, making it easier to pick off the stragglers. Being concurrently raided by two different enemies at once is more common during the ship reactor start-up phase, making it slightly easier to survive the onslaught.

If there are unopened [[ancient shrine]]s you can open them, which may contain artifacts, mechanoids, confused spacers, all useful against raiders, or none of the above.

Using the [[psychic animal pulser]] is essentially invoking this tactic, but you need to be very careful when using it.

==== Environmental hazards ====

Very rarely, when unable to put a proper fight, you can count on Mother Nature to play for your side. Invaders will come to you without proper protection against the weather. You will be able to fend off the attack without confrontation.

Choosing to play on an extremely hot or cold map, such as in a sea ice biome near the poles, seals the fate of all raiders foolhardy enough to come.

<gallery widths="450px" heights="450px" class="center" mode="nolines">
File:Siege flee from Toxic fallout and hypothermia.png|'''Siege flees from Toxic fallout and hypothermia.'''
File:Siege flee from Toxic fallout and hypothermia 2.png|'''Free prisoners in bulk.'''
</gallery>

== Humanoid assaults ==

=== Sieges ===

During a [[Raider#Siege|siege]], raiders go to a location outside your base, receive materials via drop pod and will proceed to build a simple mortar camp. The mortar camp will generally have 2 mortars and sandbags as cover. The sandbags need not cover the mortars, nor will they necessarily face your base.

<gallery widths="450px" heights="450px" class="center" mode="nolines">
File:Siege_base_construct.png|Siege camp under construction.
File:Siege_base_finished.png|Finished siege camp. Note that sieges always come with 2 mortars.
</gallery>

When faced with a siege, there are a few strategies you can use.

In most cases it's better to attack the siege camp as the raiders will continuously siege the colony even if you're in hiding, and most likely you will eventually need to face off against the raiders yourself.

==== Camp assault ====

If you assault their camp, one possibility is sniping the raiders, prompting them to assault your colony directly instead of continuing their siege once you down several of them. Defeating them early enough will result in most of their items remaining intact, which you can take for yourself. 
Another alternative is to snipe the mortars, hoping an explosion will take out many raiders, but keep in mind that for those you will need to either send someone dangerously close to enemy fire, or draw all attention to one side to allow flankers to snipe and detonate them.

Unlike most defensive situations, this time they will have the advantage of good cover on their side. You will have to find suitable cover, such as rock chunks, which you can fire from.

Sniping [[mortar]]s under construction, when they have much lower health, is effective at wasting the enemy's resources.

They are vulnerable to flanking if they haven't finished their sandbags or left a side uncovered. However, once all cover is completed, flanking is less of an effective solution.

==== Early interception ====

The best time to attack them is when they've just started building their camp. At this time their resources would have arrived.

Attacking them at this time forces them to use rock chunks just like you do, instead of having the superior sandbags on their side. Their mortars won't be ready as well.

'''Attack only when their resources have arrived''', otherwise they will flee and not send any resources, which you could've stolen had you attacked later.

==== Hit-and-run ====

An effective tactic to lure sieging raiders out is to conduct hit-and-run attacks against them. Taking down someone usually causes them to give up on sieges and directly attack, making them lose their cover advantage.

==== Countering with mortars ====

If you have your own mortars, you can use them to fire back at the raiders. The raiders will stay put to defend the camp, making them easy targets for mortar strikes.

[[High-explosive shell]]s deal heavy damage to tight groups of raiders if they hit, ignoring all cover but solid walls in the process. A tight volley can devastate mortar camps, forcing them to either attack or flee outright.

[[Incendiary shell]]s are an effective way of distracting sieges as the raiders will be preoccupied with extinguishing the resultant flames. 2 mortars are usually enough to keep them from doing any activity other than firefighting, unless it is raining or there are no flammables nearby. This deals little damage to them, however.

[[EMP shell]]s can stun the mortars, preventing them from firing. It is perhaps better used as a support weapon while your defenders assault the camps, to reduce the damage done to your base.

==== Sneak attack ====

If you don't have the strength to attack directly, you can wait for them to sleep at night, then use the opportunity to set your colonists into position for a sneak attack.

Once someone receives an injury, everybody will wake up, so be sure to have everything in place.

# Get within range and throw a coordinated barrage of [[frag grenades]] at the enemy, blowing the defenseless raiders to bits.
# Go very close (no more than 3 tiles) then unload your guns on the exposed raiders. Nearly every bullet will connect, dealing heavy amounts of damage upfront.
# 1 well-aimed [[doomsday rocket launcher]] can end the siege easily. While also effective at day, it is much safer to approach at night, and the raiders will also be more tightly packed.
# Send brawlers straight in, beating up dangerous enemies like rocketeers first.
# Steal their supplies and wait for them to send more. Free food and mortar shells!
# Burn the enemy with fire, a task made much easier while they are off-guard. This will eventually force them out to attack after suffering from heavy losses.
#* Lighting the mortars on fire allows them to be destroyed with ease.
#* Surround the camp with fire. Upon waking up, they will put forward their futile efforts in controlling the raging sea of fire around them, eventually giving up and attacking.

==== Deep tunneling ====

Mortars cannot hit anything that is under an overhead mountain. This makes deep mining a effective defensive strategy against heavy bombardment. If you don't build your base into a mountain, you may at least consider digging out at least one panic room for non-combatants to hide within from the shells while others head out for the assault.

==== Firefoam shell jamming ====

[[File:Firefoam shell jamming.png|500px|thumb|right|Enemy mortar filled with a firefoam shell, demonstrated by reddit user u/xenoxaos.]]

An interesting way to nullify the threat of a mortar attack is to launch a transport pod filled with firefoam shells to a location closer to the mortars than the shells they brought with them. When the shells arrive, the enemy will load them shells into the mortar instead. This means that the damage to your base will be much reduced, as firefoam shells do little damage beyond damaging roofs.

{{clr}}

=== Shielded melee charges ===

[[File:Melee_charge_edge.png|240px|thumb|right|Full melee charge at the edge of the map, with everyone shielded and equipped with melee weapons.]]

Pirates or Outlanders can come with all-melee charges, with most enemies wearing [[shield belt]]s. This can prove a threat to ranged-reliant defenses as they charge towards the colonists directly with their shield belts blocking large amounts of damage. 
While they are vulnerable when their shields are down, many can still reach your colonists and engage them in melee combat.

==== Melee blocking ====

The '''[[#Melee blocking|Melee blocking]]''' tactic is especially useful here; for better effectiveness, open multiple chokepoints to spread out enemies and keep them busy trying to squeeze in, otherwise they will get bored and wander off to attack other things.

Shields don't stand a chance against concentrated fire poured down a narrow entrance.

{{clear}}

=== Sniper party ===

Raiders can come using only sniper rifles, giving them a very long range but low overall damage.

The danger comes in that if you engage them conventionally, you may need to exit your quality cover, removing your cover advantage.

Sniping them back is not recommended unless you have a surplus of skilled snipers and cover.

==== Luring in ====

Instead of engaging them on the frontline, you can keep everyone out of sight, then rush out only once they get close to your base, negating their range advantage.

=== Heavy explosives assault ===

Enemies may come in mainly equipped with area damage weapons, such as rocket launchers, grenades and miniguns. This can cause serious damage to your base, your colonists, and the raiders themselves.

The main danger, as always, is from the rockets. The ideal method is to [[#Distracting rockets|distract]] them from the main defending force, not only reducing damage taken by friendly forces, but also increasing friendly fire the enemy takes. The fact that so many of the raiders have rocket launchers means that friendly fire can be so serious that the raiders will decide to retreat to cut losses by friendly fire alone.

Due to the wide use of explosives, cover is less useful; you would benefit more from flexibility in positioning rather than protection from cover. Space out your defenders, preferably far from your base structures, while giving them enough space to move around to evade attacks.

==== Disengagement and distraction ====

If you have many tamed animals, you can zone them near the raiders, who will be distracted to fire at the animals with rockets. Enemies are much more likely to receive friendly fire when firing towards your animals right next to them.

==== Grenadiers ====

Besides rocketeers, many of the enemies will also be grenadiers, which are short-ranged and are thus vulnerable to fire from a distance. Once the rockets have been taken care of, you can shoot them down with concentrated fire quite easily. Make sure to dodge the grenades if they do close in.

==== All-in melee charge ====

You can go hardcore and send in all your shielded brawlers to go straight at the enemy rocketeers. Gunners should stay out of range of rockets until all rockets launchers have been used.

This is especially effective when '''they come in to chase a refugee''', leaving you enough time to position your brawlers deep into the enemy. 
At any rate, expect losses this way due to the concentrated explosions.

=== Base flank ===

Besides sending one large attack party, enemies can also split up their forces and attack your base from multiple sides.

To adequately defend against this sort of attack, you may need to split up your own defenders and fight several battles at once, thus increasing the difficulty of managing the battle.

Each of the individual groups will flee on their accord.

==== Divide and conquer ====

If the enemy decides to prepare before attacking, you can afford to send out a larger attack party to eliminate the groups one-by-one.

=== [[Sappers]] ===

Sappers will mine and blast their way through any obstacles, such as natural or constructed walls, though avoiding high-health ore veins. They will also try to circumvent your defenses to attack from another direction. Their goal is to reach one of your bedrooms or barracks, where they will begin to wreak havoc.

In an open base, sappers can usually be treated as a weaker-than-usual bunch of raiders. However, they are a great threat to turret-reliant, mountain or walled bases, including baes with killboxes.

Their grenadiers and miners deal heavy damage to structures; even the toughest [[plasteel]] walls will not stop them for long. They will also persistently try to tunnel into your base, continuing even if their digger is killed or they are under attack.

==== Turret funneling ====

It is possible to funnel sappers with unpowered turrets, since sappers will avoid entering turret radius.

==== Early interception ====

With enough manpower, you can choose to intercept them while they're tunneling into your base. They tend not to use cover when doing so, so you can catch them by surprise. Once your defenders intercept them, they will turn to engage you.

==== Rocket counterattack ====

The [[doomsday rocket launcher]] is your best bet against sappers, if they aren't a full melee charge. Since they are bunched closely together, a single well-placed rocket can blow up most of the attacking party, causing the rest to flee in panic. If they have rocket launchers, they may drop them on death, so you may actually end up with more rockets than you started with.

If you are the one using the rockets, you have the advantage of being able to fire first. Aim it at a spot where the enemy is likely to be bunched up. If you're quick you can defeat the enemy before they can even fire back at you, ensuring victory.

Rocketeers should be behind your best cover so they can survive long enough to fire. Your other colonists should be closer to the enemy to draw fire, but out of the rocket's path lest it hits your colonists instead.

==== Mountain bases ====

If you're in a mountain base you can draft a few melee pawns to wait at the entrance, as well as a few ranged pawns facing the entrance to fire down the tunnel. When they do break in you will already have prepared to face the raiders and can pour a stream of lead right into their face or cut them into pieces.

In a mountain base, since they take longer to mine through the tock, you may try placing an [[IED trap]] right behind the wall that a sapper is trying to tunnel through, to catch them by surprise with an explosive blast. This is especially effective if it's placed right on the other side of a loose [[rock chunk]] (easily found in tunnels), which will slow down any enemies stepping over it enough that they won't be able to retreat in time.

==== Aftermath ====

Remember to cover up any tunnels or gaps in your defenses as they open up an opportunity for raiders to come straight into your base. You may fortify it and turn it into a booby-trapped chokepoint to catch unsuspecting raiders seeking direct entry.

=== Drop pod attacks ===

Sometimes pirates or mechanoids will come in drop pods. If they land at the edges, they can be treated as a normal raid party, unless you have expanded to the edges, in which they will land inside your base. 
To defend against this, have a second line of defenses inside your base so you can deny the drop-podders easy entry into your base.

The main danger comes in landing right in the center of your base. Capable enemies not using alternative strategies such as sieges or sappers have a 10% chance of doing so.

Once they choose to land there, things will get ugly. By landing in the middle, they bypass most of your conventional defenses, and you can't use your cover advantage against them. They will also break through constructed roofs on their way down, landing right inside rooms and buildings. This can put not only your colonists, but your stockpiles in grave danger, as well, especially if they land near your volatile [[mortar shell]]s or [[chemfuel]] stores, or [[Battery|batteries]].

Fortunately for you, they have a short delay ({{ticks|520}} to be exact) before they open and all hell breaks loose. They also come in smaller numbers than regular raids.

Enemies in drop pods cannot land in tiles beneath an Overhead mountain, so tunneling deep underground can make safe rooms.

==== Strategy ====

Once you see them land, you should immediately draft any nearby armed colonists to the site, whether they are your designated soldiers or not. Let them hold off the attackers for a while before your soldiers arrive to help. You have less than 9 seconds before they open, not enough for a soldier to get halfway across the map to help. 
Any non-combatants should immediately be evacuated. They may still stay close to help in rescue efforts, pulling out any downed colonists. Make sure it's safe to rescue them- as in rescuers not walking through the crossfire and back again to get a colonist to the hospital. You may need to forbid doors to prevent them from walking through the firefight into a hospital.

Melee is useful against these attacks, for you can immediately start beating up the enemy as soon as they exit the pods. They can also shut down dangerous enemies such as rocketeers.

Like other raids, humanoid raiders will attempt to flee after receiving heavy losses; however, if they land inside enclosed areas of your base, they will be trapped, allowing your colonists to down and capture them at leisure; in their panic, they won't try to fight back, until you're well into beating them up.

==== Cover ====

You should use your furniture or wall corners as cover and fire from behind them. You can also have 2 colonists hiding behind each doorway for full cover. Toggle the doors to be held open, otherwise they can't fire. Be careful as enemies will also utilise cover as well; to combat this, attack from multiple angles or use melee fighters.

Spread out colonists so they don't take collateral damage, even if it may mean some will fire out of cover. Keep heavily armored colonists up front and lightly armored colonists at the back.

Colonists with high construction skill can relocate furniture quickly; use this to your advantage by creating cover for yourself and removing it from enemies.

If you have larger bases, you can build indoor defensive positions along crucial corridors, but take care not to let the enemy use them. Stone [[shelf|shelves]] are an option as they are durable, non-flammable and beauty-neutral.

==== Fire management ====

As most furniture is flammable, you will need to extinguish any fires if you want to prevent damage. One option is to reinstall and trigger a firefoam popper inside, which also fireproofs the room, preventing any further fires.

If you prioritize the defeat of the raiders over the loss of your property, and the walls of the room are fireproof, you can simply let fires burn, or even start some more, while you evacuate the room and shut the doors, cooking the raiders alive. Watch out for fire and heat spreading to nearby rooms, and put out fires immediately once the raiders are well done. 
Not effective against mechanoids as they aren't affected by temperature and cannot be set on fire.

==== Equipment ====

High-DPS or melee weapons work best to deal with drop pod attacks. 
Mid-range weapons are also good for clearing out larger rooms. 

Long-ranged weapons are less effective due to their low damage output and the confined nature of indoor spaces rendering their superior range unnecessary.

Explosive, incendiary or area denial weapons are excellent at room-clearing, but are not recommended except in dire situations due to heavy collateral damage.

=== Tribal raids ===

[[File:Tribal_raid.png|300px|thumb|right|Group of tribal fighters.]]

Tribal raiders come with relatively poor equipment, instead relying on sheer numbers for power. Their neolithic weapons can dish out heavy damage despite their low technology level. They are also adept at combat, with many being acquainted to some combat skill or another. 

Different strategies may be required, compared to pirate or outlander raids.

==== Tribal fighters ====

They can take more of a beating compared to other poorly armored enemies as some of the clothing items they wear gives them increased endurance against pain, but when compared with other decently armored enemies they are easier to kill individually as their clothing doesn't provide much protection overall.

Their archers or hunters can fire their bows from a somewhat long distance, sometimes forcing you out of cover to fire your shorter ranged weapons at them. 
Warriors or berserkers don't use shields (unlike their pirate counterpart, the mercenary slasher), making them vulnerable to gunfire.

You should watch out for the pila wielded by heavy archers, as well as berserkers.
*Despite the short range and slow fire rate, pila are incredibly deadly if they land, capable of killing or incapacitating unprotected colonists with a lucky shot to the heart, spine or limbs.
*Berserkers carry excellent melee weapons that dish out incredible amounts of damage once they get close.

==== Weapons ====

You will need sufficient mid-long range firepower to take down tribal archers from a distance, for getting close to them in order to fire your guns is pretty much suicide. Long-ranged weapons beyond 32 tiles can effectively hit archers at maximum range, matching or outranging them.

Close-mid ranged weapons with high stopping power are good for taking down tribespeople that come too close to your defenders, but they alone cannot defeat tribals effectively just by staying in static cover.

Crowd control helps greatly in defeating tribal raids.

*The [[Minigun]] is extremely effective as it can easily mow down the densely packed groups of tribal invaders.
*All explosive weapons are devastating on tribals.
**Rocket launchers deal heavy damage while being reasonably accurate.
**[[High-explosive shell]]s can pulverize a sizable group of tribals at once if they manage to hit.
**Grenades are less effective as you have to risk a colonist or two in order to get in range.
*Incendiary weapons are good at getting pesky archers out of cover for your colonists to hit.

=== Empire raids ===

Added in the new [[Royalty DLC]], the Empire is capable of sending powerful troops to assault your base. Unlike Outlanders, Tribals, or Pirates, one major advantage they have is that their skills are matched with the weapon they use- melee Champions will actually be good at melee, while Troopers, Janissaries or Cataphracts all have excellent ranged performance.

Cataphracts are among the most heavily-armored units in-game, with an outer layer of [[cataphract armor]] and an inner layer from an [[armorskin gland]]. However, their armor also slows them down significantly.

== Mechanoids ==

Mechanoids come in 4 types, [[Scyther]]s, [[Lancer]]s (1.0), [[Centipede]]s, and [[Pikeman|Pikemen]] (1.1). They have much differing stats and weapons, meaning different tactics may be used. All types are armored to some degree, and are basically immune to fire damage.

In many raids where they come/drop in at the edges, the Scythers will outrun the Centipedes by a great margin, giving some time to deal with them before the centipedes. However, they can and will support one another effectively, if given the chance for them to come together.

Unlike humanlike raiders, they do not flee, meaning that all of them have to be taken out to neutralize the threat. They do not actively use cover, either.

=== General strategy ===

Ranged mechanoids have a long attack range (at least 27 tiles), making them troublesome to deal with. A way to deal with this is to [[#Luring in|lure them into close range]].

They are vulnerable to EMP damage, which can stun them, rendering them hunks of helpless metal. This can open a window of opportunity where you safely engage at close range, or even with melee. After each use of EMP, mechanoids will adapt to it, becoming immune to further stuns for a short while, so you will need to carefully time assaults and disengage when the mechanoids are about to reactivate.

=== Scythers ===

[[File:MechanoidScyther.png|100px|right]]

Scythers are deadly with melee, and will charge head first at your defenders. They can easily win in a 1v1 fight unless your fighters are heavily armored and have high DPS.

The optimal method of dispatching them is by [[#Melee blocking|melee blocking]], with the added effect of luring the other mechanoids closer to your base. This must be done quickly otherwise the centipedes will catch up and unleash hell on your colonists who are closely packed together in a melee blocking attack.

EMP weaponry combined with melee blocking is a frighteningly effective and safe way to deal with scyther-only charges. If a scyther standing in the chokepoint is stunned, it will block all the other scythers standing behind. To prevent adaptation, only stun the mechanoids within the chokepoint.

If fighting from a distance, high-damage weapons are essential to bursting them down before they reach your colonists. Make sure you always have someone to [[#Peeling|peel]] them off your gunners in case they do survive your barrage.

=== Lancers ===

[[File:MechanoidLancer.png|100px|right]]

Lancers are capable of medium-long range supporting fire to pick out single targets. Despite their apparent role, their performance is actually better the closer you are to them, meaning that approaching them isn't a good option.

They are vulnerable in melee combat, so melee rushing supported by close-range firepower can be used to take them down. Their low health makes taking them down relatively quick despite their light armor, though their damage in melee combat should not be underestimated, and concentrated fire from charge lances can make short work of shields.

If fighting from a distance, cover is vital in getting the upper hand. You need to be able to get your other gunners into range while giving them reasonable cover from the high damage shots. Lancers aren't particularly good shooters (equivalent to a level 8 shooter), so you may readily outperform them with sufficient mid-long ranged firepower.

==== Pre-1.1 Lancers ====

In 1.0 or earlier, charge lances have a longer range of 37 tiles, giving them a long-range sniping as opposed to simply a single target attack role.

The high DPS of the charge lance compared to the lower DPS of other long-range weapons makes counter-sniping not a viable option until you secure some charge lances yourself. Once you do, however, you have the ability to outperform lancers at range.

=== Centipedes ===

[[File:MechanoidCentipede.png|100px|right]]

Centipedes, on the other hand, specialize in crowd control and area denial; the [[Heavy charge blaster]] can annihilate groups of colonists, while the [[Inferno cannon]] sets your colonists ablaze and will burn down your base if you're not careful. They are incredibly durable, sporting thick armor and high health, and can take many hits before being downed.

Spreading colonists apart can mitigate the crowd-control capabilities of centipedes, limiting the number of colonists hit by their weapons.

The Inferno cannon is annoying to deal with and should be your priority target. Keep watch on your colonists at all times and always send them back into cover after they get hit.

Despite their high resistance against sharp damage, shooting them is generally the best option. One good thing is that their large size makes them much easier to hit.

Engaging it in melee is possible, though you have to be careful. While centipedes don't hit hard in melee, if they are carrying the heavy charge blaster, they can deal massive damage to grouped up brawlers. All nearby centipedes with the minigun or heavy charge blaster must either be engaged in melee or disabled to prevent this from happening.

Their slow speed and weaker blunt armor make them excellent targets for high-explosive mortar attacks. Often you can land a couple of blows before they reach firing range, weakening them. This property also allows you to kite them provided they have no lancers or scythers supporting them.

=== Pikemen ===

[[File:MechanoidPikeman.png|100px|right]]

Introduced in 1.1, pikemen take over the lancer's role as snipers. Their extreme range is only matched by the [[sniper rifle]].

They have poor damage output, making them less threatening compared to other mechanoids. Their accuracy is also not appropriate for a sniping mech- equivalent to a level 8 shooter, it will more often than not miss at range.

As the description says, engaging pikemen at close range can be a viable way to take them down, once all others have been dealt with. Charging them can be risky due to the long distance pawns need to travel, but shield belts make the charge much safer, especially when you have multiple brawlers charging at once to divert concentrated fire.

=== Crashed ships ===

Mechanoids are also part of crashed ship events. In 1.1 they drop alongside the ship in pods, while in 1.0 or earlier they swarm out when the ship is damaged.

The type and where it lands are both important factors to consider when dealing with them.

Psychic parts will reduce mood and occasionally drive nearby animals mad, while defoliator parts (aka. poison ship parts in 1.0) will kill nearby plants and cause serious losses to pastures or crops. You cannot deconstruct the part, only destroy it.

Since they won't attack until triggered, you have some time to prepare. However, the longer you take, the worse it gets. If the defoliator ship part lands on the opposite side of your base at a map border, it is possible to leave it there, as they will also react to incoming raids and you may as well solve two problems at once. Not the same for the psychic version though.

If they land between your plantations, you will need to place firefoam poppers and trigger them before combat to prevent fires; the foam will persist until it rains, but then if it is rainy, you won't need the poppers. You may also want to keep a few untriggered poppers nearby to rapidly extinguish a group of burning colonists at once.

[[File:Crashed ship part using foam poppers.png|center|500px]]

==== Defense behavior ====

Mechanoids are triggered immediately when the part is damaged, or something is built within a three-tile radius. They may also be triggered by the Firefoam popper explosion.

Upon triggering, scythers will immediately charge to attack, while lancers, centipedes and pikemen may instead sit in place and attempt to shoot interlopers, only moving to get within range.

Afterwards, they will guard the ship part, engaging any hostiles that come close, and chasing them over short distances. They will return to the part if targets stray too far away from the ship.

In 1.0 mechanoids chased targets over long distances and abandoned the ship part when it is at 50% health.

==== Long-range engagement ====

In the current version, it is better to trigger the mechanoids from a distance, rather than fighting way up close. This is necessary such that you can weaken the scythers with concentrated fire before they reach melee engagement range, as well as give you more time to defeat the lancers before the centipedes move within range. Scythers are especially dangerous as they come in swarms and can quickly overwhelm your gunners, as well as overpower your melee brawlers unless you outnumber them.

You can trigger the mechanoids either by high-explosive mortar fire, or sniping the ship part.
*By attacking with sniper rifles at maximum range you will gain a good enough lead against the mechs to be able to escape safely even without enhancements unless armor is over-encumbering your colonists.
*Mortar volleys can soften the mechanoids, making them easier to defeat by your colonists afterwards.
*In 1.1 you can also throw EMP grenades to stun them before moving in to engage, then retreat before they exit stun, which is 25 seconds after being hit by EMP.

==== Weapons ====

High-DPS weapons are optimal at destroying both the ship part and its defending mechanoids.

Due to the mechanoids spawning very close together, area of effect or crowd control weapons are punishing against them:
*The [[minigun]] is a powerful weapon here:
**It can make short work of the bunched-up mechanoids, then shred the ship part using its unparalleled raw DPS.
**Its already high DPS is further amplified when attacking centipedes as their large size makes it easier to land shots.
**Its long range allows you to attack from a safer distance.
*EMP mortar blasts are able to stun a large number of mechanoids caught in its blast. As the ship part blocks EMP pulses, fire several at once to hit all enemies with a single volley.
*Explosive weapons are useful for dealing damage, but keep in mind that the ship part will block the explosion. They do extra damage to the ship part.

Incendiary weapons are a poor choice for any situation involving mechanoids or crashed ships, given that both are non-flammable.

The [[orbital power beam targeter]] is the ultimate weapon against crashed ships. All you need to do is to aim the beam directly on the ship, and the beam will melt both the ship and its surrounding mechanoids.

==== Construction ====

{{main|Defense structures#Crashed ships}}

Construction is an important part of defeating the mechanoids in a crashed ship. Usually it is best if you can prepare ample cover, such as sandbags or walls, to shoot from.

Keep note that building within a three-tile distance will instantly trigger the mechanoids.

If done properly, [[IED trap]]s can be used to weaken a mechanoid swarm. Don't build too many or you will vaporize the mechanoid corpses, which can be deconstructed for resources.

==== Luring in ====

If you already have ample static defenses, like killboxes, and you want to lure the mechanoids in, you will need to make the mechanoids abandon the ship by destroying it from a long distance.

Previously in 1.0, you can lure the mechanoids simply by triggering at range.

==== Hit-and-run (1.1) ====

Their behavior change in 1.1 makes them vulnerable to hit-and-run tactics. After taking care of the scythers, you are able to chip away at the mechanoids slowly by shooting with sniper rifles at maximum range. If all pikemen are taken out then you are able to safely engage without fear of returning fire.

==== Zoning animals ====

When dealing with a crashed psychic ship part that has been there for some time, do not let any of your tamed animals near it, for the ship part can drive them into manhunter mode. This is additionally harmful as they are capable of opening doors to attack your colonists.

== Manhunters ==

Animals may randomly turn mad and become hostile due to various reasons.

When mad, they will actively attack humanlikes or mechanoids, and will not attack other structures unless provoked (such as seeing someone walk through a door). They are not sophisticated in their attacks and are only capable of actively using melee. Some can explode upon death for devastating results.

=== Animals ===
Any animal can be part of a manhunter pack. Each kind has its own statistics, and can be roughly grouped as follows:

# In terms of speed:
#*Slow: Animals that run slower than an average colonist.
#**Their speed allows you to kite them in addition to melee blocking.
#*Fast: Animals that are faster than most colonists. Obviously the more dangerous of the two.
# In terms of other properties:
#*Explosive: Animals that explode on death such as [[boomalope]]s or [[boomrat]]s.
#**They can set your brawlers alight, ruining melee blocking defenses. For these, you may need alternative tactics.

=== Occurence ===

Mad animals can strike your colony in several ways.

#Singular mad animals may randomly attack.
#Manhunters packs can arrive in massive numbers, or have a few large and deadly animals. They come in a tight pack.
#Psychic waves drive all animals of a single species insane, directing them at your colonists. They are usually scattered at first, then proceed to converge on your colonists.
#In an unfortunate hunting incident, animals being hunted will turn on you, and may even bring their allies along.

=== Melee blocking ===

As with any full melee attacks, '''[[#Melee blocking|melee blocking]] is an extraordinarily efficient way to defeat manhunter packs'''. This is especially so if the animals are small such that they deal little damage before being killed, one after another.

When psychic waves occur, either lure animals into one spot or set up multiple chokes for attack.

=== Animals vs. Animals ===

One good way to fight off mad animals is with... more animals! Just draft anyone with Release-capable animals assigned, and set them out. Your colonists can watch safely from a distance, or take a potshot or two while watching the animals tear each other apart. Just remember to have someone mop up the bloodstains and haul the corpses of the fallen.

=== Hit-and-run ===

A slower strategy is to draft a colonist, place it in a door to shoot a maddened animal, move the colonist back to safety and wait until the animal gives up and wanders off, then repeat. Be careful since this will draw the attention of surrounding maddened animals making them attack the door where the colonist came from, so be ready to repair it immediately. 
You can either kill them directly or wait for blood loss to take its toll. Larger animals can be softened this way before you move in for the kill.

This method is best used if you don't have enough firepower to take on them directly, and you have durable enough doors or a good builder to hold against animal attacks.

=== Kiting ===

Being unsophisticated in their tactics, they can be lured easily.

If you have good shooters that are fast (moving >140%), you can easily kite the faster animals. 
The larger animals are usually slower and any colonist that has normal Moving will do fine against them, though it's still better with a faster-than-average colonist.

It is possible to combine this with a long-range firing squad and turrets laying fire from a distance while they are chasing the colonist; be sure that the animals do not lose track of your kiters otherwise they will switch targets and go for somebody else.

=== Turrets ===

Turrets can distract manhunters for your colonists, giving them more time to shoot while enemies are occupied by the turret. They may explode when destroyed, taking out a sizeable group of animals who won't run away from exploding turrets, switching to another target only after the turret is no more.

=== Waiting it out ===

If you have a perimeter wall or a superstructure base with decent food stocks, you can simply wait it out inside while they relentlessly swarm outside the walls. Some of them will exit manhunter mode once they fall asleep, and will act normally afterwards.

Remember not to let anyone outside unless your intent is to kill the animals. Be careful with your tamed animals who may accidentally let the manhunters in by holding doors open for them.

They will actively attack doors if a colonist hides behind them; as a precaution, build it out of a sturdier material such as [[plasteel]] so they don't get destroyed during a manhunter attack. They will give up after a while if the doors are not destroyed. Alternatively, simply have a builder build a wall behind the door, totally preventing manhunters from entering even if they break the door.

=== Scavenging dead animals ===

Manhunter packs are a good source of [[meat]] for your colony, especially if you're low on food. If there are still maddened animals, wait until the other animals from the pack go to sleep, walk away far enough, or get a fast colonist to try and haul the dead ones away.

== Infestations ==

[[Infestation]]s will spawn under Overhead Mountains within 30 tiles of a colony [[structure]]. They can be a serious hazard in mountain bases due to the lack of free space to run away from with too many obstacles on the path, but not so much threat in open area (flat) maps. [[Insectoids]] are lightly armored, exclusively use melee and are slower than colonists. This gives them some protection against close range attacks, but leaves them vulnerable to ranged attacks and kiting tactics.

[[File:Infestation within mountain rooms bugs.png|400px]]

'''If you don't destroy them fast enough, they can reproduce, giving rise to even more hives and insects'''. This is especially true if you happen to have forgotten about a [[hive]], which given time can build itself into a giant mega-hive.

=== Behavior ===

Insects have a hive mindset; they will remain tending to their hive cluster, until they see an intruder, in which case they begin to engage all at once. They may also attack random furniture and structures in your colony.

=== Fighting infestations ===

The enclosed nature of mountain bases give colonists little distance to shoot from; thus, you may want some melee fighters to pair up with any ranged colonists.

Individual fighters will quickly get overwhelmed by the insects especially against large [[megaspider]]s, so you shouldn't trickle your defensive forces in; rather, send them all at once to overpower the insects.

=== Melee blocking ===

If there is a single choke point for the insects to get into your base (usually a door leading to a corridor), usage of this tactic allows you to defeat insects efficiently. You may even stand a chance against massive infestations if for some reason fire isn't viable, but don't get cocky. If the infestation is large you will need to bring backup tanks to replace the initial melee blocker if he or she gets downed or heavily injured.

Choke points can arise on their own from insects digging out; simply wait for them to tunnel through and massacre them once they exit.

This tactic is only viable if you have enough soldiers with ''substantial'' armor as insects inflict heavy sharp damage and will obliterate everybody not sufficiently protected.

=== Using fire ===

Fire is an effective way to clear early-mid stage infestations. If they spawn in an enclosed area with a door and plenty of flammables, all you need to do is to toss a molotov or shoot an [[incendiary launcher]] bolt into the room. The room will quickly catch fire, causing the temperature to rise fast, roasting the insects in it along with the hives.

The downside of this approach is that it makes it impossible to farm any insect meat or jelly from the infestation, because it will all burn, and it is usually too hot inside the spawn room to manually extinguish the fires to save the goods (unless there is a way to quickly vent the heat, which is usually not feasible to set up).

If there is a dedicated place in your base for infestations to spawn (see ''baiting'' below), it helps to have a few cheap wooden furniture items in that room, and maybe a few tiles of wooden floor. A great source of additional flammable material are tainted clothing items and desiccated animal bodies. Dusters and parkas have a lot of hitpoints, so they burn longer. These items are easy to get into the burn room simply by creating a stockpile with appropriate settings. A 3x3 stockpile should be more than enough to create enough heat to clear out any infestation. The fire created will usually last several hours, which is more than enough time to kill everything in the spawn room.

Separating the actual spawn room from the burn room with a wooden door makes it very easy for your colonists to start the fire without the insects attacking. The heat will spread into the spawn room regardless (and burn the wooden door).

Having a few flammable structures, such as cheap furniture) in the room is important, because the insects are stupid enough to attack these first when enraged from the fire, wasting time — instead of digging out of this trap.

It is possible to reach the temperature maximum of 2000 degrees celsius this way. Check the temperature in the spawn room before stepping in with any colonists, because they will very quickly collapse from heat stroke and possibly catch fire and die at these ludicrous temperatures.

The insects will rush for the exit of the burn room in a panic when they realize what is happening to them, and will quickly attempt to dig out to escape, so make sure the exit door is made of rock which is durable and nonflammable.

If there aren't any flammables around, you can still shoot the hives with fire weaponry. They will light aflame, along with the fuel puddles created on the ground.

As any items inside the room are likely to catch fire and be destroyed, this tactic is not recommended in a place with many valuables such as warehouses. Also be careful with the heat spreading to nearby rooms.

=== Explosives ===

Explosives are useful against large infestations. The [[Triple rocket launcher]] can raze infestations instantly. A single use [[Doomsday rocket launcher]] will deal massive damage over a large area. [[Frag grenades]] are unlimited and work well if you have the courage to send someone to close range. One blast can get several insects. 
Explosive animals ([[boomalope]]s or [[boomrat]]s) are also effective at clearing out infestations. Have them march straight into the hive by zoning them there. When the insects attack, the animals will be injured and explode, setting the insects and hives on fire.

Mortars are useless against the hives themselves as they can't hit anything below an overhead mountain. However they are an option when fighting the insects in open space, with the explosions capable of severely injuring the insects, taking out the smaller ones in 1-2 hits.

=== Late-stage infestations ===

<gallery widths="500px" heights="400px" class="center" mode="nolines">
File:Infestation_ancient_shrine.png
</gallery>

If you've accidentally left a hive or two behind or totally ignored an infestation, after a few seasons you will have a giant hive community sprawling. This is '''extremely''' hard to treat, especially if you're low on colonists.

If you're still on early-midgame, it's generally recommended that you pack up and run. If not, however, you will have to deal with them slowly. You need to lure the insects out, then defeat them to buy time for others to enter and destroy the hives. Kiting is a possibility due to their slower speeds, provided they continue to chase down your colonists.

Explosives are recommended as they deal immense damage to the closely packed hives and insects. This is especially so with the doomsday rocket launcher, which can set entire infestations on fire, destroying the hives and severely weakening the insects.

=== Prevention ===

If you only have a few tiles of Overhead Mountain then it's best that you fill it up with walls to prevent any infestations from happening. If you are in a mountain base, then you will need to do more than that.

==== Baiting ====

You can mine out rooms a distance away from your colony to somehow control insects to nest there, instead of letting them spawn right in the middle of your base. Place some cheap flammable furniture inside to confuse the insects into thinking it's a prospective nesting spot, as well as to light on fire for a quick solution to an infestation problem.

A well-lit base discourages insects from nesting, though it can still happen. If you bait insects to spawn elsewhere the chance of an infestation spawning inside is greatly reduced.

If you want the insect trap to automatically kill insects, put an [[IED incendiary trap]] inside the room, next to the flammables. Once an infestation spawns the insects will trigger the trap, lighting the room on fire and broiling the insects.

Alternatively, fill it with a few deadfall traps to weaken them before they strike your base, giving you the advantage. It also preserves the hives, which can be either good or bad.

==== Deep freezing ====

An interesting way to completely prevent infestations is to simply set your base temperature below -17°C with coolers, and have everyone in the colony wear [[parka]]s.

This means that the 'Slept in the cold' debuff will be prevalent in the colony, however, so you will need something to offset the mood. It will also incur a work speed penalty on all production facilities due to low temperature, making this strategy not very viable on all but the lowest difficulties (where infestations are not a big threat in any case).

=== Deep drill infestations ===

Deep drills can unearth insect hives, which will result in enraged insects charging up to attack after a while.

When you see this happen, gather up your defense forces to fight the incoming insects. Have them approach your base where you can melee block them while evacuating other colonists so the insects don't go for them first. Nearby pets or other tamed animals will also be attacked; you can either evacuate them beforehand to reduce losses and ensure a successful melee blocking attack, or use them as bait to grab the insects' attention while your colonists lay fire on them.

Note that if you have a deep drill near the walls of a room it is possible for the insects to spawn outside the room.

== Prison breaks ==
If you have prisoners (or potential colonists or hats) on hand, always expect them to break out any time. This is more so if you have many of them, each one ready to incite a riot whenever the guards aren't looking.

Escaping prisoners can open any colony door, and will snatch weapons whenever they see one.

=== Strategy ===
You should [[#body block|body block the prisoners]] with armored wardens carrying blunt weapons, or melee attacks with guns. They will fight and down the prisoners while blocking their exit, buying time for reinforcements.

Against already injured yet unarmed prisoners, send 1 brawler per prisoner to minimize the risk of beating them to death. 
For those at full health, 2 unarmed wardens or 1 skilled one can tackle a full-health unarmed prisoner without the wardens being downed in most cases.

Ranged wardens should attack when the prisoners are blocked by melee wardens so they can attack from a distance without much danger, and their weapons won't land in the enemy hands so easily. Don't fire too much at them as you risk permanent damage as well as accidentally killing the prisoner.

=== Weapons ===
You goal here isn't to kill the prisoners, it's to down them so you can recapture them.

*Blunt melee weapons such as the [[mace]] is a good choice for wardens to down escapees. The wounds don't bleed (unless you crush an internal organ or destroy a part entirely), nor will they be infected, giving them higher survival chances overall.
*At a distance, use low-moderate DPS weapons that won't deal too much damage to the prisoners, or to your people when the prisoners pick them up.
*Don't use high damage per hit weapons such as [[sniper rifle]]s or [[longsword]]s, as you risk instantly killing them or destroying an important part.

=== Turrets ===

Mini-turrets can be used as a form of distraction and supplementary firepower against prison breaks. Station them outside the prison doors, and they will fire on the escapees. They deliver decent firepower at short ranges, and leave no usable weapons on destruction. Prisoners also tend to stop to fight the turrets, giving wardens time to reach them.

1-3 are enough for most prisons. Don't put too many otherwise they may kill the prisoners before you can intervene.

== Caravan ambushes ==

Defensive battles don't always happen at base. Sometimes it may happen far away from it, striking one of your caravans, perhaps loaded with plenty of silver. Or maybe they creep to your traders and demand ransom, which you don't feel like paying. You always need to be prepared for ambushes when you send out caravans.

=== Escort ===

In any cargo-carrying caravan, sending only 1-2 colonists is usually not advised except in very short-distance trips as they will not be able to fend off an ambush. In this case, have combat-capable escort members which can fight and carry items, as well as medics who will patch up your colonists after battles.

If you have lots of attack animals, you can also send just 1 skilled handler with the attack animals. They can swarm any attackers, and you can leave colonists back at base for work. Remember to take into account the animals' food needs; grazing animals work best for this reason.

If you are not carrying much besides a lone colonist, leaving him to go alone is helpful as lone colonists are hard to detect, reducing both the likelihood and the power of ambushes. A single colonist with a pack animal trained to obedience should be able to fend off most attackers.

=== Ambush site ===

The ambush site is small, restricting the space where you can conduct your battle. This renders many tactics obsolete, such as long-ranged sniping or kiting. You will often have to face off the enemy in a direct gunfight or brawl.

Besides this, you can't escape the fight until it's over, leaving no choice but to fight back.

=== Cover and positioning ===

[[File:Ambush_fight.png|600px|thumb|right|Excellent defensive position against ambushes. Colonists behind walls will enjoy up to 75% full cover, while pirates will only receive 25% at most. Two brawlers are ready to execute a melee sortie, while another is ready to [[#Peeling|peel]] for the gunners. Combined with good equipment, this allows the fight to be won with few injuries even when outnumbered.]]

You should be hiding behind walls for cover if possible, as they provide up to 75% cover, but if they are not available, hide behind rock chunks or trees. Space out your defenders to reduce the amount of collateral damage the pirates deal.

If you have time, go somewhere where there is cover for you, but not the enemy. This gives you a significant upper hand in defensive battles.

Melee sorties or rushes work well if you have brawlers for they can traverse the short distances.

=== Items ===
You will need to bring some items so you can be prepared for a surprise attack.

==== Weapons ====
You usually don't have weapons to switch in a caravan unless you're bringing more than you need with you, so choosing the right weapons for your escort party is important.

*High-DPS weapons are optimal for dealing with ambushes.
*Long-ranged weapons are good for taking down targets at medium-long range, however their low DPS may offset their range advantage in an ambush.
*[[Minigun]]s are good against tightly-packed raiders hiding behind cover in an ambush. However, their heavy weight and movement speed reduction means you may want to reconsider bringing one.
*Melee weapons can help fight off enemy brawlers, or disrupt enemies behind cover. You should have at least 1 melee fighter in each escort.

==== Medicine ====
You should have some medicine handy so your colonists can patch themselves up after the battle.

[[Medicine]] should be your choice here; you should try to get good treatment to reduce chance of infection, as colonists don't get much rest in a caravan. [[Herbal medicine]] is useful if you have a good doctor on hand.

=== Aftermath ===

You can reform the caravan immediately after the battle is ended; you can bring along any downed colonists, as well as capture downed enemies. The caravan members will tend to themselves shortly afterwards.

Alternatively, you can stay and forage from the ambush map before you leave.

{{nav/guides}}
[[Category:Guides]]

File:Strategic zoning 2.jpg

2020-05-14T07:29:24Z

Mayoculpa: Zoning a large number of colony animals close to the mechanoid ship awakened them. Colonists were able to fire from cover while the mechanoids attacked animals close to them. Boomalopes' death explosions caused significant damage.

== Summary ==
Zoning a large number of colony animals close to the mechanoid ship awakened them. Colonists were able to fire from cover while the mechanoids attacked animals close to them. Boomalopes' death explosions caused significant damage.

File:Strategic zoning 1.jpg

2020-05-14T07:27:19Z

Mayoculpa: Boomalopes and various expendable animals are zoned into a small area surrounding the mechanoid ship part.

== Summary ==
Boomalopes and various expendable animals are zoned into a small area surrounding the mechanoid ship part.

Crashed ship parts

2020-02-12T22:49:37Z

Mayoculpa:

'''Crashed ship parts''' drop as part of a map event. A crashed ship part, accompanied by fire, appears at a random unroofed location when the event triggers.
These ship parts carry negative effects.

Upon attacking the part a group of mechanoids will emerge to defend it. They will also emerge if a player built structure is placed too close to the ship part. The size of the group is dependent on colony wealth and storyteller difficulty. The mechanoids will surround the ship part to protect it until the ship part's health drops too low, in which case they will simply charge your colonists like a normal raid.

[[File:Ship_part_safe_build_radius.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Planned defenses close to a crashed ship part.]]

A 14x9-tile rectangle, with an extra 1x6-tile row along the top and bottom of the ship part and an extra 1x3 column along each side, should be left clear. Placing any item or structure within this radius - such as a wall, sandbag or spike trap - will open the ship as if it had been fired upon. Objects placed or built outside of this radius will not affect it, allowing the player to build defenses prior to opening the ship.

When destroyed both leave 100 [[steel]], 35 [[plasteel]], 9 [[Debris#Slag debris|steel slag chunk]]s, 4 [[component]]s and 1 [[advanced component]].

== Psychic Ship ==
{{Infobox main|building|exotic
| type = Building - Exotic
| image = PsychicShip.png|Crashed ship part
| description = A mysterious crashed piece of a spaceship. It may contain exotic materials, computers, even AI personas. This kind of technology can be dangerous
| size = 6||3
| hp = 1000
| flammability = 0
| beauty = -100
}}

This ship part contains a hostile [[AI persona core]] that emits a psychic drone that negatively affects the mood of all humans on the map. This drone begins low, but grows progressively stronger the longer the ship part remains, therefore it is advisable to destroy the part as quickly as possible. A colonist's psychic sensitivity traits may worsen or lessen the effect of the drone.

The AI is also capable of emitting concentrated bursts of psychic energy, driving one colonist to an immediate mental break, or a localized blast that drives all animals in the immediate vicinity insane.

=== Psychic drone stages ===
{| class = "wikitable"
|-
! Psychic drone (level)
! Onset
! Mood effect
! Description
|-
| Low
| Initial
| style="text-align:center;" | -12
| It's like a scratching at the back of my mind. A voice, whispering. I can only make out a few words, and I don't like them.
|-
| Medium
| 2.5 days
| style="text-align:center;" | -22
| I feel like someone is always just out of sight, speaking to me. The voice changes but the message doesn't. I'm supposed to hurt people. Make it go away!
|-
| High
| 5 days
| style="text-align:center;" | -30
| The voice is unbearably loud. It's hard to concentrate. I find myself talking back to it, yelling at it. But it just keeps shouting!
|-
| Extreme
| 7.5 days
| style="text-align:center;" | -40
| My heart pounds and I'm sweating. All I can think of is hurting and suffering and all these enemies around me. They're my nightmare, my nightmare, my nightmare...
|}
{{clear}}

== Poison Ship ==
{{Infobox main|building|exotic
| type = Building - Exotic
| image = PoisonShip.png|Crashed ship part
| description = A mysterious crashed piece of a spaceship. It may contain exotic materials, computers, even AI personas. This one seems to be poisoning the ground around it.
| size = 6||3
| hp = 1000
| flammability = 0
| beauty = -100
}}

Relatively harmless compared to the psychic ship, this ship part slowly poisons an expanding radius of ground around it, destroying any native flora and cultivated crops. It generates snow on the poisoned area, even on warmer biomes that do not usually get any snow.

<gallery widths= "500px" heights="300px" class="center" mode="nolines">
File:Poison ship 1.jpg|'''Manually putting out nearby fires does not crack open the ship part.'''
File:Poison ship 2.jpg|'''When the poison ship is defeated, growing zones harmed by poison can be replanted.'''
</gallery>

[[Category:Game mechanics]]

File:Poison ship 2.jpg

2020-02-12T22:42:27Z

Mayoculpa: Though some nearby plants were killed by the poison, once the ship is defeated new crops can be sown.

== Summary ==
Though some nearby plants were killed by the poison, once the ship is defeated new crops can be sown.

File:Poison ship 1.jpg

2020-02-12T22:40:59Z

Mayoculpa: Having pawns manually extinguish fires around a crashed ship part does not cause the mechanoids to emerge.

== Summary ==
Having pawns manually extinguish fires around a crashed ship part does not cause the mechanoids to emerge.

Colony Building Guide

2020-02-10T15:50:31Z

Mayoculpa: /* Freezer */

{{Image wanted}}
{{TOCright}}

This guide is the ultimate go-to guide to building your [[colony]], for all stages of the game.

== General colony design principles ==

An efficient base allows your colonists to ''get stuff done'' and ''stay happy''. They must be able to reach their assigned jobs in time, and the base needs to be pleasing and comfortable to work and live in. The base should also be ''secure'', but that is probably the easiest part.

=== Getting stuff done: lowering foot traffic ===
It is not possible to make all places easily accessible, so you need to decide what spots are more important, and lay out the base accordingly.

The most important principle here is to '''not put the living quarters in the center of the base'''. Bedrooms should be at the edge of the colony: they are not needed during the day and will be an obstacle.

Also, it is difficult to plan ahead how many beds you will need, unless you make a hard commitment to limit the head count of your colony (and to kill or sell everybody else...). If your living quarters have other buildings surrounding them, it becomes impossible to add more beds without creating an entirely new housing zone. This quickly leads to a cluttered base layout that is difficult to defend.

The recreation and dining area should also be off center, probably close to the sleeping area. Recreation and eating happens mostly in the morning and evening (before and after night time). Colonists visit this place only very sparingly during the day.

This principle does, however, not apply to every room that happens to have beds in it – the hospital and prison can, and should, be more centrally placed. Hospitals and prisons require frequent visits, to tend to and feed patients and "guests". Prison breaks are more easily contained if the fugitive is in the middle of your base.

Make sure that related areas are close: kitchen, freezer, warehouse and factory floor. Some rooms are ''very'' frequently accessed from the outside (the freezer is one example). Provide short walkways to these places.

=== Make it pretty ===

Colonists do not like to exist in a cluttered and ugly environment. They do not want to walk through disgusting places all the time. For example, do not put a dumping stockpile next to a Geothermal generator next to the main walkway of the colony.

Ugliness that is unavoidable can be countered with ''decor bombing''. Make some really expressive sculptures, and put them right into the mess. You can spread a few ''large sculptures'' throughout your main stockpile, for example. This will make it beauty-neutral or even "beautiful". Like all furniture, sculptures do not have to be kept roofed or indoors, so they can be placed anywhere. Smoothed floors and walls, as well as carpets, are an effective source of beauty (+2 beauty per tile), but somewhat work and resource intensive to make.

Comfortable furniture is very important. Keep a good carpenter (with high "construction" skill), and have them craft all the furniture in the base (especially the beds and chairs). Put dining chairs in front of all workstations (they are both "beautiful" ''and'' "comfortable"); they will not make anyone work faster, but they give a mood bonus while anybody is using them.

With regards to construction work, it is best to let your most capable constructors prioritize on the "artisan work", ie furniture with a quality rating that matters. The second league of constructors can do things like lay carpets, smooth floors and build walls. These structures do not have a quality rating – the contruction skill only influences success chance and work speed. Sadly it is difficult to impossible without the [https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=725219116 requisite mods] to direct your colonists in the required way.

=== Safety first ===

Securing the base is not difficult, as long as your floor plan is compact. You can simply surround the entire complex with walls, keeping a deliberate weak spot that enemies will most probably attack from. If you give enemies the opportunity to enter your base, they will take it, even if tactically unsound. If there are long hallways, you can use the doorways as natural cover, by having one shooter stand in each doorway and shoot down the hall at incoming attackers. This is an effective maneuver that can contain even mid-size raids and does not require any purpose-built defenses.

On higher difficulties, advanced tactics like "killboxes" and turret spam might be in order.

In general you want the attackers come ''to you'', and not fight them outside of your base in the open. Siege crews and lone pyromaniacs should be lured close to your base before engaging them.

== Base Types ==

There are different ways to build your base.

{| class="wikitable"
!
! Superstructure base
! Town-like settlement
! Mountain base
|-
! Description
| Put everything in one large building.
|| Build everything in separated buildings, just like a small town.
|| In mountainous maps, dig inside the mountains.
|-
! Pros
|
*Convenient
*Saves building materials and some space
*More resistant against [[Events#Toxic Fallout|toxic fallout]]
*Improved temperature control
*Shortest walking paths
||
*Very flexible
*Does not require large patches of continuous land
*Best satisfies Outdoors need
||
*Best temperature control
*Easy to defend
*Immune to mortar strikes
*Leaves more soil available for farming
*Saves most building materials
*Most resistant against [[Events#Toxic Fallout|toxic fallout]]

|-
! Cons
|
*Fires can spread all over the base if flammable materials are used
*Requires a large, continuous area of buildable land, making it not ideal for swamp [[biomes]]
*Less flexible
*Less able to satisfy Outdoors need
||
*Requires most space and building materials overall
*Requires more planning to defend
*Worst temperature control
*Longest walking paths
||
*'''Infestations can happen within base'''
*Least flexible
*It takes a '''lot''' of time to mine out separate rooms and clear stone chunks
*Least able to satisfy Outdoors need
|}

[[File:Example base layout.png|frame|left|Example floor plan for a "superstructure" base with an efficient layout of zones to keep walking distances short. Arrows indicate where items are commonly transported. Room sizes are not necessarily to scale, and many variations of this layout are reasonable. The "killbox" is not mandatory; with a layout like this, enemies can also be lured into the long corridors and shot at from the doorways. The "clean room" would include hospital beds and a kitchen.]]
{{clr}}

== Base Structures ==

Different structures suit the different needs of your colony. The maps generate with old structures around, sometimes just walls and others are squares/rectangles just missing some sections. If conveniently located, these can work perfectly as starting points, reducing considerably the initial workload of characters with low-level skills and reducing the beginning stresses when you still have nothing.

=== Storage ===

Currently, the first room we need to build is a storeroom, as items deteriorate if left outdoors or exposed. Place a stockpile zone covering most of the room except for the tiles adjacent to the doors as sometimes pawns may accidentally drop an item in the doorway, leaving it open and insecure. You can have multiple smaller stockpile zones set to allow specific different items to better organize them. Your storeroom should be built close to the workshop to minimize travel times for raw materials.

Give special consideration toward explosive items such as [[chemfuel]] or [[mortar shell]]s as they may blow up and set ablaze your entire stock. Place them separate in a stone made compartment and far from the exterior of the base to prevent [[doomsday rocket launcher]]s from hitting the items as they can pierce through walls. Place a [[firefoam popper]] here to protect against fires igniting your munitions.

In mid-game, you can add orbital trade beacons to sell your stuff to trade ships.

=== Barracks ===

The barracks is a room where multiple pawns share a single sleeping space. This is easy to host your colonists early in the game, but it proves inconvenient as walking pawns will disturb the sleep of other occupants, and non-lover pawns dislike sharing a room. Furniture such as bedrolls or beds improve their comfort. The better the furniture, the faster they wake up and become more productive during their schedules. You should upgrade your colony to provide private bedrooms once the basics are covered, and you can convert the barracks into something else such as a hospital or prison barracks.

You can upgrade a barracks with positive mood modifiers by placing sculptures, nice flooring, temperature control utilities and high-quality furniture like dressers and end tables which increase the comfort of many beds at once.

Colonists like to eat as soon as they wake up. You may place a table and chairs inside at the beginning, but try to reinstall them elsewhere when you can as colonists entering to eat will disturb the sleep of others. Build the dining room close to the barracks once the sleeping quarters are done.

=== Bedrooms ===
{{see also|Space}}

[[File:Bedroom.png|thumb|right|General purpose bedroom, suitable for all phases of the game. Temperature is equalized with a hallway to the right. The room has enough space for a temporary production building.]]

Bedrooms are private sleeping spaces which removes the "disturbed sleep" mood penalty caused by other pawns, and provides better mood bonuses than a barracks. Couples will want to sleep together and won't disturb the sleep of their partners. However, they will need a double bed.

As you expand, you would want to upgrade your bedrooms in this way:
* To increase comfort, give the bed an [[end table]], and put a [[dresser]] in the room. Higher quality furniture provides better comfort, while higher quality beds increase the ''rest effectiveness''. Have your most capable builder furnish the bedrooms.
** Around 25 tiles of floor space, this leaves enough room to put temporary production buildings in the bedroom, useful during base expansion. Any bigger is less efficient because it increases cost of flooring.
** Standing lamp
** Beauty items, such as flower pot or sculpture; more is better, but do not go overboard.
** High quality flooring, such as carpets. This increases beauty. If you can smooth the floors (and walls), usually in a mountain base, this is always preferable to carpet flooring: it gives the same beauty value, but is not flammable and much cheaper to build. You need a good constructor, because smoothing floors takes a lot of work.
** Heating and/or cooling; it is far easier to heat or cool the hallways instead, and use [[vent]]s to equalize the temperature with the bedrooms.

Colonists often carry a meal with them, and without a table, they will resort to eating their breakfast on the floor and receive a mood debuff. Depending on your base overall layout, you may:
* Build the Dining room close.
* Build one set of table and chairs outdoors near many bedrooms.
* Place tables and chairs inside. However, make sure to turn off the "Gathering Spot" option of tables, as others seeking [[recreation]] may enter someone else's bedroom and disturb their sleep.

==== Special cases ====

"Ascetic" colonists want an unimpressive bedroom. The best way to achieve this is to have no flooring or beauty items, and make the room smaller. You should still provide end tables and dressers for them, because even ascetics like to sleep comfortably. A hardcore method could be to leave a desiccated animal corpse inside, dropping impressiveness by a huge amount.

"Greedy" colonists are initially harder to please, though as you expand and become richer providing impressive bedrooms should be no problem.

"Jealous" colonists are the hardest to manage, especially if you have more than one. Using only standard bedrooms of equal quality is the best approach to eventually make everybody happy in this situation.

{{clear}}

=== Conjoined facilities ===

The Freezer, Kitchen, Dining Room and Recreation Room are often adjacent to one another. The kitchen should be isolated from the other rooms to reduce dirt caused by walking in. The dining room and kitchen should be attached to the freezer so it isn't necessary to have to pass through the kitchen to get a meal.

Parties and wedding ceremonies take place at Gathering Spots where chairs are detected, and since pawns don't eat during these times, their proximity to the freezer is convenient to go get a meal and come back to the tables.

==== Freezer ====

[[File:Freezer coolers placement.png|thumb|right|400px|Simple freezer built along a mountain, with coolers inside.]]

[[File:Special freezer.png|thumb|right|This freezing room has the coolers placed in the center instead of at the edges. Only the center tile is unroofed. The green area shows the roof, this is also the "cold" area of the freezer room. The center, unroofed, tile is at outdoors temperature.]]

The Freezer is a stockpile room to preserve [[raw food]], plant matter and fresh animal corpses. Across all stages, the freezer is an indispensable facility, because meat and prepared meals spoil very quickly, and it is impossible to keep a fresh food stockpile without a controlled freezing area.

In most places, this is accomplished with the addition of [[cooler]]s set to freezing temperatures. Even though food freezes at {{Temperature|0}} you should have your freezer at least set at {{Temperature|-5}} since it will gain heat whenever a colonist comes in. In cold places, on the other hand, you may choose to save power by disabling the coolers, and instead let cold air inside through vents.

It is viable for [[butcher spot]]s or [[butcher table]]s to be placed inside the freezer, as butchering is a short, intermittent activity for your cook, so the work speed penalty is not very impactful. Other workstations, such as [[crafting spot]]s should be placed right outside to avoid the work penalty while benefiting from the proximity of the ingredients. 
In any case, do '''not''' put your kitchen stove in this room. Besides the work speed penalty, the cooking stove needs to be in a clean environment which the freezer does not have, due to heavy foot traffic and blood stains from dead animal bodies.

Consider making an exclusive stockpile with high priority at the front of your freezer which only allows [[meal]]s, so that cooks will always store them closer to ease retrieval. The same planning can be applied for two more stockpiles at the front of your freezer for meat and veggies, to speed up ingredient pick-ups (colonists assigned to hauling and trained animals will move ingredients from the back of the freezer to the front).

[[Nutrient paste dispenser]]s act as walls. They are usually placed with their hoppers in the freezer and activation spot in the dining room.

[[File:Cooler break-in.jpg|thumb|Raiders break through a cooler and proceed to smash additional valuables.]] Cooler placement is of crucial importance, as these devices have a very low 100HP, making them the weakest point in a wall from where raiders can break in easily and most likely ignite your food supply. Because of this, one of the best ways to protect your coolers is to place them facing a mountain, if there is one nearby, or to build a wall around their hot side. In both cases, make sure to remove any roofs. If your base is in a cold biome, another option is to direct their hot sides into your living space to help heat it. It is common to make the freezer with double walls to increase insulation. The freezer is vulnerable to [[Events#Solar Flare|solar flares]]. In freezing biomes, food still needs to be kept from spoilage to exposure. In which case, wall it off and add [[vent]]s to the exterior to let in the cold air.

It is common to make airlocks(a door, a short space, and then another door leading to the freezer itself)in the entrance of the freezer to reduce temperature exchange. Since colonists and haulers will enter this room quite often, build [[autodoor]]s once available to both speed up entry/exit and minimize temperature change.

===== Positioning =====

Because the freezer is a special kind of stockpile area, and relies on coolers, which are somewhat fixed installations, it is not easily moved in your base. This means you need to plan carefully where you put it.

The freezer needs three main entrances:
* One leading directly outdoors, or with a short outdoors connection. Dead animal bodies and produce from your farm fields and pasture will be delivered this way.
* One leading to the kitchen. It should probably be right next door.
* One leading to the main warehouse. This is to take leather from butchered animals into storage, as well as moving slow spoiling stuff such as corn, smokeleaf and healroot between the freezer and warehouse.

In addition, the freezer will need to be expanded as population increases, meaning that you should leave one of its sides unoccupied by other structures so that in the future you can increase the size of it without needing to deconstruct other rooms. The freezer should not be too large, because that will require more coolers, and also increase the walking distance to gather and redistribute supplies.

This practically demands that the freezer is at the periphery of your base. If you place it there, you can also increase the floor space when your colony grows. Because you will be storing your harvests here, it is also wise to position this room in close proximity to your fields to shorten hauling jobs, with doors also pointing towards your growing zones.

Note that however, the freezer does not need direct access to the perimeter of your base! A single unroofed tile is enough to vent the exhaust from up to four coolers (it counts as an outdoors tile as far as the game is concerned, if the four tiles perpendicular to it are walls, or wall-like tiles). Only in a mountain base you need to consider the exhaust spots of the freezer room more carefully.

Be very careful when you dig or build in or around this room. Leaving even a single gap in a room wall will raise the temperature well above the freezing point, and this is easily missed because there is no direct visual indication of the room temperature. It can lead to massive amounts of food spoiling if undetected.

It is tempting to dig into a mountain to create a freezing room, but keep in mind that [[infestation]]s can then spawn in this room. This can actually be a good thing, because eradicating an infestation right inside the freezer room is tactically easy, and it will leave all the filth and dead insects in probably the best location in your base. Your food supply will, however, be temporarily disrupted in such a scenario.

==== Kitchen ====

[[File:Kitchen area.png|thumb|right|Kitchen area with short walkways for the colonists and separate meal freezer. Autodoors are used in chokepoints. The meal freezer and dining room could, and probably would, be more distant in the base. This layout tries to minimize foot traffic in the kitchen, but it is difficult to avoid.]]

The kitchen is where your colonists cook raw food into [[meals]] to improve colony life. The kitchen should be clean to avoid [[ailments#food poisoning|food poisoning]], which can be attained by the following means:
* Zone out colony animals.
* [[Sterile tile]]s for flooring.
* Place your doors so that your dining room has a shorter path to the freezer than walking through the kitchen

You should build your kitchen right next to your Freezer.

The [[butcher table]] is better placed elsewhere, due to its inherent uncleanliness added with the filth created by butchering. However, it should be placed near the freezer, preferably in a spot in the warehouse right next to it, as both ingredients (dead animals) and products (meats) need to be stored inside the freezer, having the butcher work there greatly reduces travel time. If you plan to make a lot of [[Kibble]], create an extra butcher table outside of the freezer for that task, to avoid the work speed penalty from the cold.

[[Shelf|Shelves]] or small stockpiles can really improve cooking efficiency when placed right next to your stoves. Set one to accept berries and vegetables only, and another to accept meats which would usually be cooked before they spoil. Put those shelves on high priority, so they will be replenished by your haulers and saving time for the cook. If you take this approach, set up the bills on the stove so that the products (meals) are ''dropped on the floor'' by the cook, and not delivered to a stockpile immediately. Prepared meals will stack next to the stove and can then be delivered in bulk to the freezer or fridge, close to the dining hall.

It is usually a good idea to add a little art since colonists tend to stay there for a long time. It should be temperature controlled for better working speed.

Since the kitchen is placed near the freezer, some crafting stations which include plants ingredients may be also placed in here. The [[brewery]] and [[drug lab]] are good choices. Also, if you making [[chemfuel]] with food you may place the [[biofuel refinery]] here.

==== Dining room ====

Dining rooms, at their simplest, are simply rooms where you put tables and chairs for colonists to dine in. Still, tables are marked as Gather Spots by default. Colonists will hang out here to relax and also hold their parties and weddings here. Expect your dining room to be pretty crowded during meal times, especially after a party or marriage ceremony, so have enough chairs for at least half your colony.

Colonists, as well as visitors, will search in a 20 tile radius for a table to eat at. For this reason, a dining room should be built as close as possible to the freezer/food storage so that your colonists will actually use the dining room, instead of eating on the floor of the storage, giving them a -3 mood debuff. This is especially true for larger freezers, in which colonists retrieving food from the far end may simply give up searching for a table and eat on the floor.

Since colonists spend a lot of time here, increase their mood by decorating your dining room with [[sculptures]], [[plant pot]]s or quality furniture. Having an impressive dining room also provides a small mood bonus to colonists who eat there.

==== Rec room ====

You should have a wide variety of [[recreation]] sources so your colonists don't get bored repeatedly throwing horseshoes at a pin, or wandering around aimlessly. Putting all of them in a room also provides a mood bonus after a colonist uses the facilities inside, depending on the impressiveness of the room.

In the early game, all you'll need is a horseshoes pin somewhere in the colony, and colonists will proceed to use it when they are bored.

Once you reach midgame, you can afford more recreation facilities such as chess tables or billiards tables, or [[Tube television]]s, which provide different kinds of recreation for additional variety. In addition, you can also obtain additional recreation sources from exotic goods traders, such as [[telescope]]s or [[Megascreen television|megascreen]] televisions, which offers more recreation than the craftable tube and flatscreen televisions.

Similarly to the dining room, decorating it can improve the mood bonus from using the room.

=== Courtyard ===

[[File:Courtyard.png|400px|thumb|right|Small courtyard that serves both as a dining room and recreation room.]]

Most colonists like getting outside once in a while. In superstructure bases, you may consider building an unroofed courtyard where colonists can get some fresh air.

You can use it as a common area, putting recreation items and dining tables for colonists to use, making the courtyard behave exactly the same as an unroofed dining/recreation room. Alternatively, it may also be used as a place to put your [[mortar]]s as putting them in the middle helps reduce the impact of their minimum range blind spot. Also consider keeping [[transport pod]]s here, but place them in a separate unroofed area as they are not beautiful to look at.

{{clr}}

=== Laboratory ===

You may want to have a room dedicated to research, with [[hi-tech research bench]]es, [[multi-analyzer]]s to increase research speed and unlock new research. Room cleanliness affects research speed, so place sterile tiles to keep the room clean. For even better cleanliness, restrict the lab to your researchers and janitors only, reducing traffic and hence the amount of dirt in the room. Also consider placing some art here and building a comfortable chair, as your researcher will be spending a lot of time here.

=== Workshop ===

Workshops are places where you put all your crafting stations and benches. You should put them near your warehouse so your colonists can spend less time hauling the needed resources to the workshop for crafting, while keeping them separate due to the beauty penalty of raw materials. Also remember to put chairs of any sort at the interaction spot so your colonists won't have to keep standing while crafting.

The [[tool cabinet]] is handy for increasing productivity of your craftsmen. The work speed bonus is quite valuable, and each bench may benefit from two tool cabinets.

It is an excellent idea to '''put decorations such as sculptures inside the workshop''', as a beautiful environment gives up to +15 mood, improving colonists' productivity and even allowing for the occasional mental inspiration.

=== Armory ===

You can choose to have a dedicated area to store your weapons and armor. If so, put it far away from your prison so that prisoners do not have ready access to dangerous weapons during prison breaks. Place it near your entrance so that colonists can equip themselves on the way to defend your base.

Ammunition, on the other hand, is best stored deeper in the base, preferably far from anywhere else in case of unexpected events such as fires.

=== Hospital ===
[[File:Hospital_example_midgame.png|400px|thumb|right|Hospital with sterile tiles, hospital beds with vital monitors, decorations and megascreen TVs facing the beds.]]

[[File:Compact hospital layout.png|thumb|right|An efficient hospital layout. Dresser and end tables provide maximum comfort. Two vitals monitors cover all 8 beds. Flatscreen TVs provide extra recreation for the patients. Medical supplies are close by, the room is well lit and accessible from all sides. The vents equalize room temperature with the hallway. Up to six more beds could be installed here rather easily: four in place of the end tables, and one each to the left and right of the vitals monitors; all beds will have dresser, TV and monitor coverage.]]

Dedicated hospitals are more of a mid-game thing when you have enough resources to build the specialized equipment used in them. [[Hospital bed]]s provide a boost to treatment quality, immunity gain speed, and healing speed, meaning colonists will recover faster from illnesses and injuries, making them the choice for hospitals. The [[vitals monitor]] brings even better boosts to treatment and immunity gain, so when available it's recommended that you put them down near your hospital beds.

Hospitals should be built somewhere where colonists can quickly bring their downed comrades to treat them. Keep doors open, or use [[autodoor]]s so they don't obstruct colonists' access. If you need to, you can build more elsewhere in the base.

Hospitals should have [[sterile tile]]s as flooring as they provide a slight cleanliness buff that can increase surgery success chance and reduce wound infection chance. Keep in mind that wounded colonists will bleed out considerably, so you may want to assign another colonist to specifically clean the hospital to improve their treatment chances.

Store your medicine in or near your hospital using [[shelf|shelves]] so your doctors can quickly grab them to patch up colonists before they bleed to death. Sometimes just that little distance can make the difference between life and death.

[[Dresser]] and [[end table]]s ''do increase'' the comfort of the hospital bed. The furniture does not affect medical treatment, but improves the mood of the colonists while they are recovering. The downside is that each end table blocks a spot with vitals monitor coverage, but this is not a problem until one needs to squeeze the absolute maximum number of beds into the hospital.

Decorating hospitals to make them beautiful can give colonists inside a great mood boost (max +15, plus impressive room stats). This is good, especially considering that some colonists will stay in the hospital for some time, such as the severely injured, incapacitated or sick.

To provide recreation, you may also install televisions into your hospitals. Patients lying in hospital beds within the viewing area will watch TV to entertain themselves when they are bored, and you won't need colonists coming to cheer them up as their only recreation source.

==== Patient rooms ====

If you have even more resources and space, for example in lategame, you can build a separate room for each colonist. While they don't mind sleeping with others in a hospital, they do get disturbed by them walking around, and dirt can more easily affect cleanliness as well.

==== Operating theater ====

You can build a separate room to accommodate colonists who will undergo surgery, to make sure that colonists undergo medical operations in the cleanest of places.

Your operating theater should be forbidden at all times except when someone is about to have surgery. This prevents colonists from tracking dirt or blood into it, staining it.

==== Vet area ====

Consider building animal sleeping spots with their own animal area near your medicine stockpile that you can restrict wounded animals to. That way, they can be treated as fast as possible.

Medical treatment for animals benefits from cleanliness as well, but not proper hospital beds (and in turn, vitals monitors). Once you enter midgame, sterile flooring should be easy enough to get.

=== Prison ===

[[File:Prison_example_midgame.png|400px|thumb|right|Mid-late game prison blocks from A17, partially filled. Each cell has a table with a chair, a bed, decorations and a chess table with a chair (for decoration). Generosity like this is well-appreciated and rewarded with prisoners joining your colony. Note that the doors open towards the rest of the base (downwards).]]

==== Prison barracks ====

In the early game you can simply convert any existing ruins into a makeshift prison barracks or build a simple prison hut which holds all the prisoners you capture. Try not to build it too far away from your main structures, otherwise it becomes harder to catch escaping prisoners. Another option is to mark one of your colonist's bedrooms as a temporary prison while you build another bedroom or a proper prison.

You should include tables and chairs for prisoners to use. This will improve their mood, which by extension lowers their chances of mental breaks and improves their recruitment speed.

==== Prison cells ====

Like colonists, [[prisoner]]s will also suffer from the mood penalties associated with being kept together in a prison barracks. In addition, prison breaks are more serious should they happen, for every prisoner locked up in the same room will simultaneously break out, while prisoners in different cells may choose not to join. Thus, you should keep them separated.

Each cell should have a table with a chair, a bed, and a light source. This is the bare minimum you need for a prisoner to be decently kept. Decorating the cell and making them bigger also increases mood bonuses for easier recruitment. They can't use any recreation items put in the cell, nor do they have a recreation need, so don't bother with recreational items other than for room impressiveness.

Prisons should have doors facing towards your base, so escaping prisoners will go towards your base instead of away, giving your wardens more time to deal with a break.

==== Holding cell ====

A larger cell with more beds. It should be only be used when your prison cells are overflowing. Put your less important prisoners inside them while assigning your more valuable prisoners into the cells.

=== Multipurpose rooms ===

These are more of an early to early-midgame thing that you can use before you get dedicated structures erected, such as hospitals or bigger prisons. Yet, these can still prove useful sometimes, like when your freezers or warehouses overflow, or you need somewhere to house an influx of injured or sick colonists.

This is rather simple; just make an empty room, along with suitable temperature control. You can add beds if you intend on someone living in it (be it colonists or prisoners), which you can uninstall and tuck away in a corner when unused.

=== Backup ===

There are many types of ways you can set up buildings on your map to possibly save your colonists' lives in dire situations:
*'''Shelters:''' Building small rooms with emergency supplies can save your colonists from enraged animals. Thick enough walls (at least 4 layers) can stop raiders from killing your colonists hiding inside.
*'''[[Nutrient paste dispenser]]s''': When food is running low or you forecast that it will, a paste dispenser can significantly slow down food consumption by efficiently converting raw foods into nutrient paste.
* Strategically placed stockpiles of wood can provide heating, for example during a solar flare or cold snap. Mark these wood stacks "forbidden", so your colonists will not use them during regular operation.

== Production ==

You will also need various buildings to produce or manufacture the stuff that your colonists need.

=== Crops ===

[[File:SunlampHydroponics.png|thumb|300px|right|Sun lamp illuminating crops grown in hydroponics basins. With this configuration you can fit 24 basins under 1 sun lamp for a total of 96 plants grown.]]

{{See also|Food production}}

==== Crop fields ====

Crop fields are rather simple. Just set up a growing zone, designate the desired plant type and growers will automatically go and grow the plants.

You need to carefully check the soil fertility before marking out your areas.
*Stony soil looks quite similar to dirt at first glance, but has a greatly reduced fertility, reducing the growing speed of plants.
*Rich soil on the other hand, is visibly darker and has improved fertility, making it suitable for slow growing plants such as [[devilstrand]].

You will need to keep most animals from eating your crops. You can zone out the area from your tamed animals, but you will need to build walls to keep out wild animals. If you're not building a greenhouse, then watch out for your builders automatically roofing this "room".

==== Greenhouses ====

Enclosed areas that grow crops with the aid of temperature control, [[sun lamp]]s and possibly [[hydroponics basin]]s. They allow you to continue growing crops regardless of soil or weather conditions. Note that greenhouses are subject to power draining events like [[Events#Solar Flare|solar flares]], knocking out lamps, heaters and hydroponics. All plants in a basin without power will slowly take damage until they are destroyed. So beware, solar flares or damage to the power grid can destroy whole hydroponics crops.

=== Mining ===

In early-midgame you just need to select mineral outcrops and designate them, and miners will proceed to dig out the minerals.

Once all visible mineral outcrops are mined, you can continue to mine resources in a couple ways.

==== Strip mining ====

If you have more mountains or rocks which you can mine, you can strip mine them by mining out long tunnels with 2 tiles between each other. This allows you to see all tiles in the mountain. Hopefully, you will hit a mineral deposit.

Covering up your mine to prevent infestations is a good idea, using cheap materials such as [[wood]] it is possible to completely seal up the mines at a low cost. Alternatively, set up defenses at the mine entrance and just farm the insects.

==== Deep drills ====

After research you will unlock the [[deep drill]] and the [[ground-penetrating scanner]] for use.

It is not recommended to start deep drilling without an active scanner as you cannot see the locations of mineral locations.

Some deposits will be directly underneath your base. You can deconstruct or relocate buildings to give access to your drills. Be careful when you mine in colonists' bedrooms as they can easily disturb sleep. Turn off the mineral scanner when you aren't placing new drills, and beware that bugs can be attracted by the drills. Be prepared to deal with infestations near or close to the drill.

=== Animals ===

[[Animals]] are an extremely useful asset to the colony. They provide a variety of products, from raw food materials (meat, eggs or milk), to wool, which is an excellent insulator against both heat and cold. Moreover, they can be used in combat or as pack animals in a [[caravan]]. In fact, some larger and more intelligent animals can be trained as haulers, such as dogs, freeing up colonists for other tasks.

==== Barn ====

Animals are happy to sleep anywhere as long as it's not too hot or cold. Otherwise, a temperature-controlled barn with animal sleeping spots is necessary to keep the animals comfy.

Building [[animal sleeping box]]es or [[animal bed]]s can help animals rest faster, though this doesn't really do much and is not cost efficient.

==== Chemfuel farming ====

[[Boomalope]]s are unique in the fact that they can produce [[chemfuel]]. This can be used to power generators, used as [[transport pod]] fuel or made into [[mortar shell]]s.

Due to their explosive nature, they won't be attacked by predators, so you can let them roam freely without much danger. Keeping them confined is dangerous as the death of one boomalope can injure others, and if you don't intervene the other boomalopes will die, exploding and causing a chain reaction.

== Power ==

=== Solar power ===

[[File:Solar wind setup.png|thumb|420px|right|Wind turbines with solar generators packed underneath the exclusion zones.]]

[[Solar generator]]s provide power only during the day except during eclipses. It provides a constant 1700W, quite a decent figure, but still shouldn't be fully relied on.

=== Wind power ===

[[Wind turbine]]s provide unstable power day and night. It can provide up to 3450W or nothing at all, and rarely hits its peak production.

It requires plenty of open space for maximum efficiency, and any obstacles in its area reduce efficiency. To prevent trees from growing and obstructing the turbines, put down floors, grow crops underneath the turbines or fill in the gaps with solar generators.

=== Fueled generation ===
{{main|Chemfuel powered generator}}

You can build the [[wood-fired generator]] which runs on wood, or the [[chemfuel powered generator]] which runs on [[chemfuel]], constantly providing 1000W of power. It is a good idea to have some of these as a backup power source, or even as your main source in biomes that are loaded with forests that will replenish themselves, such as in the tropics or temperate forests.

If the biome provides enough wood, the ''wood-fired generator'' is an excellent choice for establishing a colony. The wood from about two trees will power the generator for three days, giving the colony uninterrupted power to run all important early-game facilities (freezer, lamps and some work tables).

Chemfuel is significantly more efficient than wood, so once you research the [[refinery]] it becomes better to refine wood into chemfuel before usage as fuel.

Both fueled generators will burn fuel at the full rate, even if no power is consumed. Catching the excess power with batteries, and disabling the generators while the batteries are charged, will make them more fuel-efficient.

==== Boomalope setup ====

Boomalopes generate enough chemfuel to run 1 generator.

3 boomalopes give enough fuel to continuously power 4 generators for a total of 4000W. This is not taking into account any energy costs from growing food for use by the boomalopes.

If the animals have to be fed with grown food for more than a few days during the year, it is more efficient to convert the food straight into chemfuel (in a refinery), instead of feeding it to boomalopes. On the other hand, if the biome allows the boomalopes to graze for most of the year, this makes them a free source of energy (if you can keep them safe).

==== Greenhouse setup ====

A hydroponic greenhouse will produce far more chemfuel than necessary to power the greenhouse and the required refinery. This translates into a very high surplus of power (if you build additional generators), or you can use the surplus to grow food or drugs for the colony. Even a single greenhouse can easily cover the food and energy needs of a mid-sized colony, without having to rely on any other power source.

==== Infinite chemreactor setup ====

[[Infinite chemreactor]]s generate enough chemfuel to run a generator, which in turn generates more than enough power to run the chemreactor.

3 infinite chemreactors can generate enough fuel to power 5 generators, for a total surplus power of 4100W.

Because the ''infinite chemreactor'' is a rare quest reward, it is unlikely that you will be able to create a setup that produces enough power for the entire colony.

=== Geothermal power ===

[[Geothermal generator]]s constantly give 3600W of power after being built on a steam geyser, without requiring fuel. It is an important source of power from mid-game onward, as it is constant and high-powered. A basic mid-sized colony can be sustained using 5 generators, around the usual number of geysers found on the map.

Research is required to unlock it. The generator itself is quite costly so it's best left to midgame. It is possible to rush the research for geothermal power, though you should be careful not to neglect other more important research projects. However, once researched and built you can have a constant power supply.

Make sure your geothermal generators and their connecting conduits are well-protected as they often have to be placed far from base. Walling the generators helps protect them against raiders, but walling the conduits isn't recommended due to the cost and its hindrance on colonist field work.

Be aware of the heat that the geysers release. If you closely wall and roof in a geothermal generator, the temperature inside will be quite high, enough to set combustibles on fire (including the generator itself). It is thus necessary to remove the roofs on such buildings. However, if the vent is close to your base in a cold biome, consider attaching it to your own base to help heat it.

=== Power storage ===

[[Battery|Batteries]] store electricity during times of excess and release it during times when demand exceeds supply. You will need batteries to store power if you're using unstable power supplies such as wind or solar power. Batteries must be kept under a roof to prevent short circuits. They should also be protected from external threats as losing batteries to raiders or mortars can cripple your power supply.

=== Emergency power ===

Some events will cause you to lose power if you are unprepared. Some colonies rely on wind or solar power to power everything. Eventually, every colony with electricity will suffer from a [[Events#Zzztt...|conduit explosion]]. Since you will be relying on batteries to store your power, this can cause a lot of disruption if the renewable energy isn't enough to power your base while your now empty batteries recharge. Raiders attacking and destroying power conduits connected to power generators can sever power from the colony, reducing the power available. In all these circumstances, this can leave you without enough power for your freezers, production, hydroponics, temperature control or even your turrets. However, it can be mitigated:
*'''Backup batteries''': Always have spare power stores, such as separate battery systems with switches. Once charged, flick the switch to isolate them from the rest of the power grid. Only reconnect it when your main grid has run out or the reserves need charging.
*'''Backup generators''': Have some fueled generators that you bring online only if there's not enough power in the colony. This can allow your backup batteries to discharge slower or even recharge. If they are turned off they will not consume fuel.

=== Vanometric power cell ===

A [[vanometric power cell]] constantly provides 1000 W of power, out of thin air. It handles like a battery, and can be reinstalled at will. It is the best portable power source in the game, very useful on mining caravans, and if you want to take your entire colony on the long trip to the event spaceship.

Unfortunately, the Vanometric Power Cell is a rare quest reward, and there is no guarantee to obtain one during the course of a game.

If the additional 1000 W from the VPC is not needed in your colony, it can be used as a risk-free way to keep any number of batteries at full charge, indefinitely. Place the battery array directly adjacent to the VPC; this will keep it charged without the possibility of short-circuiting, since no power conduits are used. Do not connect this installation to the rest of your power grid.

=== Power network ===

It's not a good idea to have just 1 conduit spanning the entirety of your base. While it saves materials, short circuits or other events can cripple your power supply to parts of your base. Instead, build a network with redundant pathways so that the grid will continue to function even if there is a break somewhere in the network. Consider using doors to cover up the beauty penalty for exposed conduit indoors.

Since geothermal generators must be built on top of existing geysers, they are often located far from your base. It is best to connect geothermal generators to other geothermal generators so that events such as wildfires and raider attacks won't easily disconnect them from your power network, causing severe power shortages.

If you choose to avoid short circuits by not building any conduits, you'll need to plan ahead to build your base around the steam geysers, long before you have geothermal power researched. It requires careful arrangement to get every powered appliance close enough to a generator stack to auto-connect. You will likely end up with a few separate clusters of generators for the greenhouse, workshop, freezer, hospital etc. With this method, your appliances should not lose power unless the generator itself is destroyed.

== Defenses ==
{{main|Defense structures}}
{{see also|Defense tactics}}

Unless you're playing on Peaceful difficulty, you will eventually encounter major threats, so you will need to prepare defenses for that.

Preparation is a huge advantage that you have. You can fortify your defenses to make the most out of your defending colonists, and tilt the field towards your favor.

*Cover is a major aspect in defense. While enemies are hiding behind rock chunks, you have [[sandbags]] and walls on your side, giving you a significant upper hand. You can even clear the rock chunks to force enemies behind trees which are less optimal a cover choice, widening the advantage.
*You get to choose where the enemy attacks (unless they use sappers to tunnel in). It is a good idea to only have one or two entrances with lots of defenses and traps to repel attacks.
*You can choose to build [[turret]]s if you have unlocked them. They are essential if you don't have enough colonists to defend against raids, either the start of the Rich Explorer scenario or lategame when you have a lot of wealth that will attract an army of raiders.

== Temperature control ==

Room should have its temperature regulated by some method or another, so as to keep a comfortable temperature for colonists to live in, and protect them from extreme temperature conditions such as heat waves, cold snaps or simply the ambient temperature outdoors.

Large rooms such as your dining room or rec room should have their own [[heater]]s and [[cooler]]s. If they are interconnected you may want to open doors for faster colonist access and temperature exchange. If you choose to do so, remember to close doors if a fire breaks out in the room.

Colonists will complain if sleeping in the extreme heat or cold. Bedrooms and other smaller rooms should be thermally connected to a larger central space via [[vent]]s. Your heaters and coolers should be all placed outside the bedrooms. This reduces the number of heaters and coolers you need to build while keeping your bedrooms at a comfy temperature at the same time.

Keep in mind that you will also need to be prepared in case of a freak temperature event such as heat waves or cold snaps. Without enough temperature devices rooms can get uncomfortably cold or hot, and in severe cases begin to cause hypothermia or heatstroke.

=== Cooler gap prevention ===

As coolers need to be built as part of a wall, the process of building a cooler involves tearing down the original wall, then putting the cooler in place. This short interval allows temperature to go freely through the gap, which isn't something you want.

To fix this, you can plug the gap by building a cheap wooden wall in front of or behind the cooler blueprint, then starting work on the cooler. The wooden wall will prevent temperatures from equalizing easily. Remember to deconstruct the wall after the cooler is done.

=== Protected coolers ===

Coolers are very fragile and must be placed in a wall, so a single explosion or dedicated effort from melee attackers can easily break them down. Protecting the coolers helps fortify your base against enemy raids by eliminating the weak points in your walls. This is done by walling the coolers off while giving it unroofed space in front of the hot end to vent away heat.

If your colony is in a cold but not quite freezing biome, consider venting the heat from the coolers for your freezer into your living spaces instead.

==== Cooler column ====

Place several coolers in line with the hot end facing an unroofed area where the heat vents out into the open. That unroofed area can be placed within an existing structure, such as inside the freezer. For maximum spatial efficiency, the strips of unroofed area should be 1 tile wide, surrounded by coolers. This method is best used for freezers to keep cool as most cases don't call for many coolers.

=== Temporary temperature control ===

If your regular heaters or coolers aren't doing the trick, there's a temporary power outage, or you're a tribe without the ability to harness electricity yet, you can use [[campfire]]s or [[passive cooler]]s to heat or cool down your base respectively. Campfires can't heat above 30°C while passive coolers can't cool below 15°C. Also, their temperature effect is full and cannot be throttled. Depending on what gear your colonists are wearing, it's possible for them to be in a room being heated with campfires and complain about it being too hot.

These are best used to keep colonists comfortable during heat waves or cold snaps. If you always encounter uncomfortable temperatures during summer or winter, then it's time to upgrade your heaters or cooler system.

== Miscellaneous ==

=== Dirt floors ===

Until you have enough manpower to spare for cleaning jobs, use the terrain directly instead of building any floors. Dirt trailed on constructed floors makes for a much worse beauty and cleanliness penalty than using dirt floors, so this can actually make your rooms look better and be 'cleaner'.

For places like hospitals however, it's better to use sterile tiles and manually clean them instead.

=== Flooring outside ===

To reduce the amount of dirt inside your colony buildings, put any kind of flooring covering places where colonists and animals frequently walk. This reduces the amount of dirt formed as well as causes dirt to be left outside where it does not look as bad.

This should obviously be done only if you have enough janitors, otherwise it's better to just not build any floors (see above).

=== Bridges ===

[[Bridge]]s allow for fast movement and some building on shallow sections of rivers and marshy terrain types. They're great for allowing colonies to span rivers, as well as making building in swampy biomes a bit easier. Note that some objects cannot be built or placed on bridges.

=== Moisture pumps ===

[[Moisture pump]]s clear out moisture from the ground around them, making solid land that is suitable for construction and in most cases, agriculture. They are excellent in swamp biomes for clearing out shallow water, marshy soil and mud in order to build structures. Their effect is permanent, so they can safely be deconstructed once the land you want to use is dry.

{{nav/guides}}
[[Category:Guides]]

File:Cooler break-in.jpg

2020-02-10T15:44:29Z

Mayoculpa: Building a cooler in an exterior wall leaves a vulnerable spot which raiders will exploit.

== Summary ==
Building a cooler in an exterior wall leaves a vulnerable spot which raiders will exploit.

Raw fungus

2020-02-07T16:29:39Z

Mayoculpa: added description in the box so it can be pulled into tables on other pages

{{Define|Raw Food
| always haulable = true
| def name = RawRaw fungus
| description = Raw fungus obtained by harvesting fungi growing in caves. It cannot be farmed.
| draw gui overlay = true
| graphic class = Graphic_Single
| graphic path = Things/Item/Resource/PlantFoodRaw/Rice
| label = raw fungus
| parent name = RawFoodBase
| path cost = 15
| resource readout priority = Middle
| rotatable = false
| selectable = true
| social properness matters = true
| sound drop = Food_Drop
| sound interact = Food_Drop
| stack limit = 75
| thing class = ThingWithComps
| ticker type = Rare
| eat effect = EatVegetarian
| ingested direct thought = AteRawFood
| nutrition = 0.05
| sound eat = RawVegetable_Eat
| taste = Raw
| preferability = Raw
| use hit points = true
| deterioration rate base = 6
| days to rot = 40
| flammability base = 1.0
| market value base = 1.10
| max hit points base = 60
| mass base = 0.03
}}
'''Raw fungus''' obtained by harvesting fungi growing in caves.

When used in food recipes, raw fungus is classified as a vegetable.

It cannot be farmed, so it isn't a good sustainable food source.

Menus

2020-02-07T16:22:42Z

Mayoculpa: /* Assigning work */

{| align=center
| {{Menus_Nav}}
|}
----


{{Tocright}}

The following '''menus''' are found along the bottom edge of the screen.
The first eight menus are bound to hotkeys F1 through F8. (See: [[Controls]])

==Architect==
The Architect menu is mainly used to designate construction.
{{Main|Architect}}

==Work==
From the Work menu you can set the types of work you want your colonists to perform, though some colonists cannot perform all tasks. For example, [[Backstories#Medieval lord|nobles]] can only access [[research]] and [[firefighting]] whilst a [[Backstories#Colony settler|settler]] can access all [[skills]].

===Manual priorities===
The 'Manual priorities' mode toggles the interface between 'standard mode' (red X) and 'manual mode' (green check).
*Standard mode: Colonists only do work types they're assigned to, noted by a green check. Tasks on the left rank more importantly than tasks on the right.
*Manual mode: Each colonist's work type can be prioritized from 0 (blank) to 4. 1 is the highest priority, 4 is the lowest, and blank tasks will not be performed.

===Assigning work===
An efficient colony depends on colonists doing work they're proficient at. Boxes on the work menu are used to assign work, and each box has a visible outline. The higher the colonist's skill, the brighter the outline, ranging from red (worst), to white, to bright yellow (best). Also, hovering over a skill box displays the colonist's skill level. Each box will also show a colonist's passion for that skill indicated by one or two flames. This will help you decide who you want doing each task. It is a good idea to study your colonists' skills and apply them to their strengths. Using the wrong people will slow down your progression.
To help keep you from using the wrong colonist for a job, a crunching sound is made when you assign a pawn to a work type which they won't do well due to low skill. Some colonists may not have a box for one or more work types; they are incapable of that work.

===Incapable of work types===
Some characters are incapable of certain work and/or certain categories of work (i.e. violent, dumb labor). This is listed under <tt>Incapable Of</tt> in the character tab. Characters with a skill level 0 in a skill are still capable of performing the relevant task, they will just be ''extremely'' ineffective and inefficient. One exception is that character who are ''incapable of'' plant work can still cut down trees - if it is under blueprints as part of construction work. They'll be exceedingly slow at it, though.

===Prioritizing a task===
A colonist can be directed to immediately perform a task, but only if it's a work type they're assigned to. Select the colonist, right-click a target (such as a blueprint, object, or pawn) and choose an option from the context menu. If no menu appears, then the colonist can't do anything with that target - try another colonist. Multiple tasks can be chained together by holding the Shift key. Queued jobs are shown on the colonist's inspect pane.

===Notes===
*For improved efficiency, colonists do cleaning and harvesting in batches.
*Colonists will only perform work in their [[Zone/Area|allowed area]].

===Work types===
----
[[File:Work priorities.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Example of work priorities and the different work types.]]

====Firefight====
This task allows a colonist to extinguish fires. Colonists will not extinguish fires that are not both in their allowed area and the home zone.
* Relevant skill: none
* Category: none

====Patient====
Patients go to a [[bed|medical bed]] to receive treatment for an immediately life-threatening health condition (i.e. a treatable [[illness]]). It is not advisable to ever disable this or severely lower the priority. See the 'bed rest' task to set the priority for non-disease injuries.
* Relevant skill: none
* Category: none

====Doctor====
Doctors bandage wounds, treat the sick, and perform operations. Doctors also automatically rescue downed colonists. Doctors tend to colonists, anyone rescued, prisoners and colony animals that are resting in a bed.
* Relevant skill: Medicine
* Category: Caring

====Bed rest====
This task prescribes a colonist to rest in bed to heal [[Injury|injuries]]. It does not designate a priority for sleep when a colonist needs to replenish rest or to recover from a disease.
* Relevant skill: none
* Category: none

====Basic====
Colonists will complete tasks that are unskilled and easy to complete. These include toggling power on [[Power#Appliances|appliances]] and [[Power#Power switch|switches]], releasing [[Prisoner#Release|prisoners]], and opening containers.
* Relevant skill: none
* Category: none

====Warden====
Wardens feed [[prisoner]]s, chat with them, and try to recruit them, as chosen by the player. Wardens also carry out prisoners releases and executions. These options can be selected for each prisoner on the Prisoner tab found on the inspect pane.
* Relevant skill: Social
* Category: Social

====Handle====
Handlers tame [[animals]]. Handlers rescue wounded animals, [[Animals#Training|train]], feed, milk, shear, and slaughter.

'''Note:''' Slaughtering animals is a violent act and will not be carried out by pawns incapable of violence.

*Relevant skill: Animals
*Category: Animals

====Cook====
Cooks [[butcher table|butcher]] [[animals]], prepare [[meals]], and brew [[beer]].
* Relevant skill: Cooking
* Category: Skilled labor

====Hunt====
Hunters hunt animals [[Orders#Hunt|marked for hunting]], but will require a ranged weapon to do so (you will be notified via message of colonists with the Hunting job that are unarmed).
* Skills: Shooting
* Category: Violent

====Construct====
Constructors build things, smooth floors, repair damaged buildings and structures, and fix broken-down equipment (requires components).
* Relevant skill: Construction
* Category: Skilled labor


====Grow====
Growers plant and [[Orders#Harvest Food|harvest]] domestic crops.
* Relevant skill: Plants
* Category: Skilled labor

====Mine====
Miners dig out marked sections of stone and minerals; and operate [[deep drill]]s.
* Relevant skill: Mining
* Category: Skilled labor

====Plant cut====
Plant cutters [[Orders#harvest|harvest]] food from wild plant and [[Orders#cut plants|cut down marked plants]].
* Relevant skill: Plants
* Category: Dumb labor

====Smith====
Smiths create weapons at the [[smithing bench]] and the [[machining table]].
* Relevant skill: Crafting
* Category: Skilled labor

====Tailor====
Tailors craft clothing at the [[tailor's workbench]].
* Relevant skill: Crafting
* Category: Skilled labor

====Art====
Artists make [[sculptures]] at the [[sculptor's table]].
* Relevant skill: Artistic
* Category: Artistic

====Craft====
Crafters do general low-skilled labor at work stations such as [[stonecutter's table|stonecutting]] and [[electric smelter|smelting]].
* Relevant skill: Crafting
* Category: Skilled labor

====Haul====
Haulers:
* Do the following:
** Carry materials, items, and corpses to [[stockpile zone|stockpiles]]
** Cremate corpses at the [[crematorium]]
** Burn apparel and drugs at a [[campfire]] or crematorium
** Open [[cryptosleep casket]]s and [[sarcophagus|sarcophagi]]
** Transfer [[wort]] to [[fermenting barrel]]s
** [[Orders#Strip|Strip]] pawns marked for stripping
** Refuel [[torch lamp]]s and [[campfire]]s
** Refuel [[fueled generator]]s and other [[production]] stations that run on wood
** Prior to B19, they would rearm [[deadfall trap|traps]]
* Relevant skill: none
* Category: Dumb labor

====Clean====
Cleaners remove [[filth]] such as dirt, blood, and vomit, which would otherwise negatively affect the [[beauty]] of a room.
* Relevant skill: none
* Category: Dumb labor

====Research====
Researchers do research work at a [[simple research bench]] to unlock new items and building options.

Researchers must use the [[hi-tech research bench]] for projects that require it.

* Relevant skill: Intellectual
* Category: Intellectual

==Restrict==
The Restrictions screen allows the player to schedule an activity for each colonist, for each hour of a 24-hour day. Activities include: Anything, Work, Recreation, and Sleep.

Also, each colonist is assigned to an [[Zone/Area#Allowed area|allowed area]]. By default each colonist is set to 'unrestricted' allowing them to do activities anywhere on the map. Clicking the allowed area box on a colonist's row assigns that colonist to that area. The 'Manage allowed areas' button opens a window where allowed areas may be created, deleted, or renamed. Up to eight allowed areas may be created.

==Assign==

[[File:Mainmenu_assign.png|600px|thumb|right|Assign tab displaying all its features. Note that 'Brawler' in the 'Current Outfit' tab is a custom outfit.]]

The Assign screen has the following functions:
* '''Threat response:''' Sets each colonist's behavior when enemies are nearby. (This setting is also available on the colonist's inspect pane.)
{| style="margin-left: 19px;"
|- style="height: 23px;"
| [[File:ReactUndraftedFlee.png|16px]] || style="vertical-align: bottom; padding-left: .5em;" | Flee (default)
|- style="height: 23px;"
|[[File:ReactUndraftedAttack.png|16px]] || style="vertical-align: bottom; padding-left: .5em;" | Attack
|- style="height: 23px;"
|[[File:ReactUndraftedIgnore.png|16px]] || style="vertical-align: bottom; padding-left: .5em;" | Ignore
|}

* '''Outfits:''' Allows the player to manage [[Clothing|apparel]] profiles. Colonists will automatically don apparel according to their assigned outfit using the best apparel possible and according to the season. They will automatically switch out damaged apparel for better apparel, or poor-quality apparel for high-quality apparel. A colonist will not automatically equip a personal shield if they have a ranged weapon equipped. If the player manually assigns apparel, the colonist will never remove it until the manual assignment is cleared. In the Gear tab manually assigned apparel is listed as 'forced'. Forced apparel can be cleared using the 'Clear forced' button on the Assign window, allowing colonists to remove them at will.

There are several default outfits as follows:
:* Nudist: Allows only headgear. A nudist does not consider headgear to be clothing and will still get the appropriate mood buff.
:* Worker: Excludes any type of armor but allows most everything else.
:* Soldier: Includes armor and clothing suited for cold weather.
The player may modify these outfits or create their own.

* '''Food restriction:''' Starting from version 1.0, allows the player to edit and set food policies that can be applied to each colonist.

* '''Drugs:''' Allows the player to edit and set [[Drugs|drug]] policies that can be applied to each colonist.

If a colonist has drug-related trait it is conveniently noted on the drug policy.

==Animals==
The Animals window lists all the colony animals. Clicking an animal name will center the map to that animal.
* A button lists the animal's master, if it has one. Click the button to assign a new master.
* [[Zone/Area#Allowed area|Allowed areas]] are also listed here including Unrestricted, [[Home area]], and animal areas. Each animal stays in its assigned area unless its master is drafted.
* The <tt>[Manage areas...]</tt> button at the top of the window opens another window to edit allowed areas.
{{Main|Animals}}

==Research==
The Research window is used to select the next technology to research. The Research button is also a progress bar of the current research project.
{{Main|Research}}

==Factions==

{{Main|Factions}}

There are five different factions in the game besides your own: Tribes, Outlanders, Pirates, Spacers and Mechanoids. Each faction has its own unique characteristics and view of your colony. By default, only the Outlanders are non-hostile. However, attacking Outlander forces will cause them to retaliate and become hostile.

===Tribes===
The tribes are groups of neolithic people with basic weaponry such as bows and spears. They have probably inhabited the planet for a long time. They always wear tribal clothing, which is equivalent in stats to a standard shirt. They also wear parkas in colder climates. If you are playing as New Arrivals, people from this faction are usually very hard to recruit (difficulty 80+), though it is possible to do so. Tribe names often have words derived from Spanish, such as 'miñoca', 'legua', etc. They may not seem very strong due to their low level of technology, but they make up for it with sheer numbers. It is not uncommon to see raids of over twenty tribesmen later in the game, even on lower difficulties. This faction is a formidable ally and foe alike. They may not be as dangerous as pirates, but they are not insignificant.

===Outlanders===
Outlanders use the same equipment and technology as pirates, but do not behave the same. Outlanders by default are non-hostile but can be provoked into hostility. Due to their similarity to your colony they can be considered the standard faction if you are playing as New Arrivals. If you are playing as a Lost Tribe, people from this faction are usually very hard to recruit (difficulty 80+), though it is possible to do so. They often use similar equipment and tactics as pirates, but rarely use high level gear such as [[charge rifle]]s or [[sniper rifle]]s. Be nice to them and you will have an ally and trade partner, but anger them and you basically have another enemy.

===Pirates===
Pirates sport modern weapons and gear, though occasionally use advanced gear. It is pretty much impossible to negotiate with them (any attempts to do so result in vitriolic insults being thrown at you over the [[Comms console|comm system]]). Pirates are the primary source of raids, usually attacking from the map edge and occasionally dropping directly on your base. They kidnap incapacitated colonists if they have the chance. The Pirates can be considered the bad guys of RimWorld.

===Spacers===
Spacers are an off-map faction, similar to mechanoids. They affect your colony in the form of survivors from spaceship disasters, and often require medical attention in the aftermath of whatever they were escaping. Spacers can also often be found within the cryptosleep caskets of ancient ruins. No one knows what scenario forced them into their prolonged sleep, but those daring enough to awaken them should be prepared to defend themselves from an attack as the spacers sometimes lash out in dazed confusion. Sleeping Spacers often wield high-tech weaponry and powerful armor, but managing to subdue them gains skilled allies who will willingly join your colony (recruit difficulty <40).

===Mechanoids===

The Mechanoids are a faction of super-advanced robots, all of which are extremely formidable in combat. They come in three forms: [[Mechanoid#Centipede|Centipedes]],
[[Mechanoid#Scyther|Scythers]], and [[Lancer]]s

Centipedes are the Mechanoids' heavy tank unit, coming equipped with an [[inferno cannon]] or [[heavy charge blaster]], as well as remarkably tough armor. Centipedes are capable of dealing a great amount of damage to your colony. Their primary purpose is to soak up damage from static defenses while suppressing enemy infantry's movements. They cannot move quickly, so it is often possible to run around it in circles and not get injured. Use this to your advantage when combating Centipedes.

Scythers are the Mechanoids' fast melee unit, coming equipped with twin blades and light, though still durable, armor. Scythers can deal a great amount of damage in melee, so they should be engaged with ranged weapons if at all possible.

Lancers are the Mechanoids' long range sniper unit. Their weapons ([[charge lance]]) are slow-firing, but are very accurate and are powerful enough to kill a humanoid or cause permanent injuries in one shot. They are relatively safe to engage in melee, as long as you can safely close the distance.

Once killed, all Mechanoids leave a mechanoid corpse which can be broken down at a [[machining table]] for even more metal. A Mechanoid attack can easily destroy your colony if you are not prepared for it. They have a decent combat AI that utilizes each unit's strengths, making them a dangerous enemy to face. Mechanoids can invade from the edge of the map, or they can be dropped directly into an unsuspecting base. Mechanoids are the enemies of the [[Events#Crashed ship part|Psychic Ship and Poison Ship events]], in which they will emerge from the wreckage of their ship and attack if a colonist attacks it.

==World==
The World interface provides information about the planet that the player has settled on. By default, the map is centered on the site of your colony, but can be moved via the standard camera keys. Individual colonies and caravans can be selected by clicking on their icons on the map. If the player selects an area, they can receive information through the planet and terrain tab.

===Tabs===
* Planet tab - provides both the name of the planet as well as the seed used in world generation.

* Terrain tab - provides information on the biome type, travel times for caravans passing through that area during the various seasons, the stone types (rock chunks), elevation, rainfall, average temperatures, growing times, and time zone.

===Caravans===
{{Main|Caravan}}
As of Alpha 16, caravans can be deployed from existing colonies by clicking on the colony and clicking the "form caravan" button at the bottom. The player will then be able to select who and what to bring, as well as which side of the tile that the caravan will exit. Caravans can also be formed by sending drop pods that contain at least one colonist (without a colonist, any items sent to an empty world map tile will be permanently lost, even if an existing caravan is on that tile). After a caravan is formed, the player can select the caravan and right click on the destination and the caravan will begin to move (similar to a drafted colonist). The caravan's speed is based on the terrain, and can change based on the time of the year as well as the health of the colonists in the caravan. Caravans are also capable of splitting and reforming while traveling, and cannot move if they become overburdened. In addition, caravans have a chance of being ambushed by raiders and wild animals, opening a small "sub world" and forcing the members of your caravan to fight. All of the statistics and information about a caravan can be checked and managed through the caravan menu. This is accessed by clicking on the caravan on the world map, or on one of the colonists in the caravan via the character bar at the top.

The caravan menu consists of five tabs. The gear tab displays both the weight of the caravan, as well as which items are being hauled. The social, needs, and health tabs allow you to check the individual statistics of the colonists in the caravans (to see their character stats, click the "info" button next to their name). Finally, the gear tab allows you to equip clothing and weapons to your colonists (very useful for traveling from warm to cold biomes).

Caravans can be used to settle in different areas, attack pirate bands, and trade with other NPC (non-player character) colonies (giving you an increased profit since you're making the trip). By default, the maximum amount of colonies that a player can create and maintain at one time is set to 1. This limit can be increased to as high as 5 in the game's options. These colonies will exist simultaneously. The severity and type of events that occur will be based on the individual colony's wealth. So 200-man tribal raids shouldn't occur on your new settlement even though your old settlement might be very developed. If a settlement is abandoned the world tile becomes a [[Ruin]] and all items, structures, and resources are lost forever, and the player can never re-enter the area.

==History==
===Graph===
On the History screen, the graph tab shows a historical graph. There are three different graphs:
* Wealth: This graph has lines depicting total wealth, item wealth, and building wealth.
* Population: This graph shows the free population and prisoner population.
* Colonist mood: This graph only displays the average mood of all of the colonists.

At the top of the three graphs is a series of colored circles that describe every random event that has occurred. Blue or white circles are positive or neutral events, yellow circles are negative events, and red circles are attacks. The event circles are chronologically in sync with the graph, so that each event happened at the time specified on the graph. The graphs can be filtered to include only results from the last 300, 100, and 30 days.

===Messages===
On the History screen, the messages tab shows the last 200 messages and letters you've received, even after you close them. You can pin messages to keep them around longer.

===Statistics===
On the History screen, the Statistics tab contains information about the colony, including the current [[AI Storytellers|Storyteller]] and difficulty scale, total colony wealth, the number of major threats and enemy raids, the total amount of damage taken and colonists killed, and the number of colonists launched into space.

==Menu==
The Menu is accessed by hitting the esc key or by hitting the corresponding tab at the bottom right of the page.

The functions are as follows:
*Save - Saves the current game manually
*Load game - Loads a previously saved game
*Review scenario - Displays the conditions of your current play through (Does not record the seed used to generate your world map)
*Options - Provides graphics and sound settings for the game
*Quit to main menu - Returns the user to the title page
*Quit to OS - Quits the application

In a save with [[AI Storytellers#Permadeath Mode|Permadeath]] enabled, the functions are as follows:
*Review scenario - Displays the conditions of your current play through
*Options - Provides graphics and sound settings for the game
*Save and quit to menu - Saves the current game manually, then returns the user to the title page
*Save and quit to OS - Saves the current game manually, then quits the application
[[Category:Main]]

Topic:Vgco52mktr13lx8t

2020-02-07T15:42:16Z

Mayoculpa (talk | contribs) commented on "Extra info" (There is an excellent Reddit thread with more detailed stats on beds of various materials and quality levels. However, the thread is arch...)

Animals

2020-02-05T20:43:24Z

Mayoculpa: /* Health */

{| align=center
| {{Characters_Nav}}
|}
----

{{Tocright}}
<onlyinclude>

{{for|a complete search|List of animals|}}

Wild animals occasionally spawn on the map according to the [[biomes|biome]] and from random events. These wild animals and tamed animals will wander and graze on vegetation, including player-grown plants, regardless of type. Growing [[Resources#Raw food|food]] outdoors can sometimes attract animals to your base perimeter. Animals are an important source of [[food]] by the meat they provide once [[Orders#Hunt|hunted]] and [[butcher table|butchered]].

Raiders will target tamed animals as often as colonists.

{{asof|A14}} animal trainers receive 90 XP per training attempt, which is increased from 60 in Alpha 13. Taming an animal also grants 90 XP per attempt, which previously did not occur. When animals nuzzle a colonist, it counts as a social interaction and is logged in the social tab of both the colonist and animal.

</onlyinclude>

== Animals Tab ==
The Animals tab is in the menu bar at the bottom of the screen. The default hotkey is {{key|F4}}.
* The Animals tab lists all the colony animals. Clicking an animal name will center the map to that animal.
* A button lists the animal's master, if it has one. Click the button to assign a new master.
* [[Zone/Area#Allowed area|Allowed areas]] are also listed here including Unrestricted, [[Home area]], and animal areas. Each animal stays in its assigned area unless its master is drafted.
* The <tt>[Manage areas...]</tt> button at the top of the tab opens a window to edit allowed areas.

{{asof|A14}} several features have been added to the Animals tab:
* Gender and life stage informational columns
* A "Slaughter" checkbox column to allow easy slaughtering of multiple tamed animals at once
* Checkbox columns for each trainable skill to allow easy training of many animals

== Appearance ==
Most animals appear to have no limbs, just as colonists do.

Some animals have different appearances between males and females.

== Behavior ==
*'''Wandering:''' Animals will wander the area when they have nothing else to do, e.g. eating or hunting. When wandering, some species of animals will tend to stay together in a herd. Others will spread out alone across the map.
*'''Filth:''' While walking on constructed floors they can leave animal filth. The rate of producing filth is proportional to body size and wildness.
*'''Forbidden food:''' Hungry tame animals will eat forbidden food and may even leave their allowed area.

=== Mating ===
Occasionally tamed males will approach a tamed female of the same species to initiate mating. The female will stand there, allowing males to mate with her. Afterwards the female can get pregnant. 
More than one male can mate with the same female at once.

Wild animals do not mate.

=== Fleeing ===
Passive animals will mostly flee when harmed. They will not flee if they are engaging in combat with an adversary. 
More aggressive animals will turn and attack instead of fleeing.

If a member of a herd is harmed or killed, the rest of the herd will flee as well, scattering around.

=== Aggression ===

Sometimes a single animal may go mad, or every animal of the same species be driven mad by a psychic wave, and attack any humans not behind closed doors.

If injured by a colonist or tamed pet, certain species of animals will become maddened into a manhunter state and will relentlessly seek out humans to attack. Sometimes nearby animals of the same species will be simultaneously enraged. Unless otherwise neutralized, a maddened animal will eventually return to a normal mood. Animals in manhunter state will attack doors if colonists try to go in and out of them.

Manhunter chances are listed in the Wildlife tab of the map screen, and also on the Info tab of each individual animal's information window.

[[File:Manhunter due to pet hunting.png|400px]]

=== Predation ===
Most carnivores are predators. When hungry, a predator will prefer an easy meal. They'll first go for meals or food types within their diet. They may go for a downed or dead animal or a human corpse. But when a hungry predator has no other food nearby, they will hunt, kill and consume almost any animal smaller than them, including your tamed animals or even your colonists. This can especially be a problem on maps with little wildlife, like on [[Biomes#Ice sheet|Ice sheets]] when a polar bear wanders in. Still, predators tend to choose more vulnerable and weaker animals, and wisely avoid boomrats and boomalopes. Their attacks usually stun their prey, leaving them unable to fight back or flee. A predator will focus all their attacks on their downed prey, so if they do down your colonists or livestock and you have a colonist nearby, then direct them to Rescue that downed pawn. It could mean the difference between life and death.

Predators include {{#ask: [[Category:Animals]] [[Is Predator::true]]}}.

If you successfully hide all colonists and tamed animals away from a predator's reach, it will hunt any other available wildlife.

It is not possible to view the Needs tab of a wild animal, so you may have to deduce whether or not a predator is hungry based on its behavior. They sometimes remain near the area where they last killed and ate an animal for about a day. Bloodstains or partially-consumed animal corpses on the ground are a fairly reliable guide, as well as a source of free leather and delicious leftovers. Be careful not to let a hauler take away a predator's food before it has finished eating. It will still be hungry and will hunt your colonist instead.

=== Body heat ===

Animals will give out body heat, slightly heating up their surroundings. This is insignificant most of the time. In enclosed barns with many animals packed, the heat can become a problem in warm weather or hot biomes, and a benefit in cold biomes or during winter.

== Breeding ==
Animals are born by live birth or by hatching from a fertilized egg.

=== Live Birth ===
Female animals that give live birth become pregnant when a male animal approaches them and mates. Only tamed animals may breed. An animal's gestation period specifies how long a female's pregnancy will last.

A pregnant animal suffering [[malnutrition]] or is injured may miscarry. Miscarriages are noted by an in-game message.

Live births produce amniotic fluid (see [[Filth]]).

Some animals will give birth to multiple young. The probability of this is determined by a curve, and is different for each animal.

Animals can breed with their own family members without penalty, even for repeated generational incest.

{| style="border-style: solid; border-width: 0px; text-align:left;"
|+ style="text-align:left;" | Pregnancy progresses in stages.
! scope="row" | Early stage (hidden)
|: Starts at 0%. This stage is not displayed but may be surmised by the vomiting it causes.
|-
! scope="row" | Middle stage
|: Starts at 33%. At this stage [[Health#Moving|Moving]] is reduced by 15%.
|-
! scope="row" | Late stage
|: Starts at 66%. At this stage [[Health#Moving|Moving]] is reduced by 30% and may include vomiting.
|-
! scope="row" | Full term
|: At 100%. At this point the female will give birth. Some species may have multiple offspring in a litter.
|}

=== Eggs ===
Egg-laying animals include {{#ask: [[Category:Animals]] [[Egg Laying Interval::+]]}}. Females become fertilized after mating with males, causing them to lay fertilized eggs. Most animals will not lay unfertilized eggs, with the exception of [[chicken]]s.

Fertilized eggs display their progress on the inspect pane and hatch when ready.

Fertilized eggs can be ruined by temperature if not kept within their safe temperature range of {{temperature|1}} to {{temperature|49}}.
: Eggs may start to overheat at/above {{temperature|50}}.
: Eggs may start to freeze at/below {{temperature|0}}.

The inspect pane will indicate 'Overheating' or 'Freezing' followed by a percentage rising up to 100%. This status is halted when safe temperate is restored, but it is not reset - if the temperature is unsafe again, it will pick up where it left off. If it reaches 100% the egg is 'ruined by temperature' and will not hatch even if returned to a suitable area. A ruined egg still has full nutritional value and can be used to make a meal (or eaten raw, with a mood debuff).

== Diet ==
While most carnivorous animals can eat raw meat, corpses, kibble, and meals, [[Warg]]s can ''only'' eat raw meat and corpses.

All strictly herbivorous animals and some omnivorous animals (notably pigs and boars) can eat live plants (except trees) and haygrass. 
Dendrovorous animals such as the [[alphabeaver]] and the [[thrumbo]] can eat trees, in addition to other plant-based foods.

Because all animals except wargs can eat meals, [[kibble]], and [[pemmican]], it is possible to feed meat to herbivores or plants to carnivores if it is prepared first.

== Health ==
Animals have the same set-up as humans when it comes to health, minus the ability to operate on them (except euthanasia)(The option to amputate an infected limb can become available once infection sets in, at least on Thrumbos—assuming other animals as well). They feel pain, and have all of the different health stats that human pawns possess. Needs to have an animal bed (or sleeping spot) to be healed.

Like humans, they have a life expectancy, and are affected by [[Ailments|chronic diseases]]. There is no way to cure them in the base game other than [[Healer mech serum]], which would be incredibly expensive.

A tamed animal which requires tending will find the nearest animal bed or animal sleeping spot in their [[allowed area]] and rest there until it is either fully healed or dead. Pawns assigned to doctoring will tend its wounds or illnesses and feed it, just as they would do for a humanlike pawn. If all human colonists are absent or unable to care for a sick animal, it can die of starvation even if there is food nearby and it is capable of walking.

== Hunting ==
[[File:Hunt.png|42px]]

Wild animals may be marked for hunting, done by [[Menus#Hunt|hunters]] with ranged weapons, who will proceed to shoot them at maximum range, before executing them with a neck cut when they are downed (except explosive animals). After killing their target, they will haul the carcass to a [[stockpile zone]] even if they are naturally incapable of hauling, but will not start hauling it again if they're interrupted.

Animals harmed by hunting that were not killed yet may become enraged and if its a pack type, its full horde may turn hostile against the entire colony. If they are non-aggressive animals they usually flee instead.

Hunting may take longer during bad weather since there's a shooting modifier while it's raining or snowing that makes it more likely for shots to miss.
* Fog (with or without rain): hit chance multiplier is 50%.
* Rain or snow: hit chance multiplier is 80%.

{{clear|left}}
To mark animals to be hunted use one of the following methods:
*Click Wildlife, Click the first red X to the right of the animal you want to hunt and change it to a green check mark
*Click Orders, Hunt, then click one or more individual animals.
*Click Orders, Hunt, then click and drag a box to surround and select multiple animals.
*Select one or more animals, click Hunt.

=== Hunting tips ===

* Animals can be hunted manually instead of just using the hunt order by drafting a colonist and right clicking to fire at animals. This allows the killing of multiple animals in one session, or hunting from close range. Closer range reduces the chance of missing shots or unintended friendly fire, but raises the chance of provoking animal revenge.

* In the occasion of a full horde revenge, early-stage colonies may easily become overrun, leaving all colonists downed. But down is not out. While players may instantly think of loading the latest save and re-try (aka. save-scumming), it's unnecessary and unchallenging. Eventually, one or more of your colonists may recover. With luck, this miracle may take place at nightfall, when wildlife sleep (except for the most enraged beasts among those), or they have wandered far enough, opening a chance to rescue everybody else. The manhunter status of the horde will disappear overnight.
**[[Defense tactics#Melee blocking|Melee blocking]] could be a valuable tactic to defeat the rampaging animals. In addition to making it easier to defeat the animals even when outnumbered, it also keeps your downed colonists near your base for easy rescue.

== Life Stages ==
Animals all have three different life stages. Animals have different graphics for different life stages, or may simply appear smaller. Animals start out as babies and their age is listed as minutes, hours, or months. Some animals have a specific name for this stage (e.g. chick). They then move on to juveniles (teenagers). Eventually, they reach the final life stage, adulthood. In the stages before adulthood, animals have lower stats (body size, health scale, mass, carrying capacity, move speed, hunger rate, meat amount, leather amount, market value) that normalize when they reach adulthood. Animals have different sounds (call, anger, wounded, death) for different life stages. Babies may simply make a higher pitched sound, or have a different sound altogether (such as chicks). Depending on the species, animals will need to reach the juvenile or adult stage before they can reproduce.

== Needs ==
Animals require food and sleep and will fulfill their needs on their own.

'''Food:''' Animals will eat any available food according to their diet. Herbivorous animals of the colony can be left to eat grass on their own. Note that animals require different amounts of food compared to humans, as represented by their [[Hunger Rate]].

'''Rest:''' Animals will sleep as needed. Tamed animals will sleep in [[animal sleeping spot]]s, [[animal sleeping box]]es, or [[animal bed]]s. If none of which are available, the animal will crash out on the ground inside its allowed zone. A tamed animal will not sleep as long as its master is drafted.

== Animal husbandry ==

Animals can be tamed and put to use in the colony, providing several benefits.

=== Taming ===
Wild animals can be tamed by a [[Menus#Handle|animal handler]] with sufficient Animal skill and available food. Tamed animals may be bred, trained, traded, slaughtered, or farmed.

Wild animals may be marked for taming using the Tame button.
[[File:TameButton.png|52px|left|link=]]{{clear}}

An [[Menus#Handle|animal handler]] will attempt to tame marked animals using food fitting that animal's diet. The chance to tame an animal depends on the animal's wildness (displayed on the info window) and the handler's 'Tame animal chance' stat. This stat is determined by the colonist's [[Skills#Animals|animals skill]], [[Health#Manipulation|manipulation]], and [[Health#Talking|talking]]. When a handler fails to tame an animal there is a cooldown period before another attempt can be made and there's a small chance it will turn manhunter and start attacking the handler and others. After a while the handler may drop unused food. Tamed animals will remain in or near the colony or they may be assigned to animal areas to contain them. Setting animal areas is usually necessary to restrict them from eating food not intended for them.

==== Tame chances ====
Besides the animal handler's own skill, the wildness of the animals also counts.

Tame chances undergo a post-processing curve.
*An animal with 0% wildness has a x2 taming chance.
*An animal with 50% wildness has normal taming chance.
*An animal with 100% wildness cannot be tamed at all.
*When an animal has its wounds tended by a colonist, there is a constant 0.4% chance of the animal will self-tame and bond with the colonist, regardless of wildness.

Currently, the hardest to tame animal is the [[Thrumbo]] with a post-processed taming chance of 3%.

[[List of animals|Animals]] with 0% wildness remain tame forever. An animal with a wildness above 0% needs to have maintenance training in Tameness. If it loses all Tameness it will go back to being wild.

==== Minimum skill ====

Some animals require a minimum skill before they can be handled. The game will prompt the player if no colonist has enough skill to handle the animal. In this case a colonist has only 1 point as an utter beginner and has learning ability, the easiest...

* Animals that require no points (zero) to tame are: Alpaca, Cat, Chicken, Cow, Dromedary, Husky, Labrador retriever, Pig and Yorkshire terrier.

An animal's handling skill requirement is calculated as follows:

'''Skill = 9 * (wildness - 0.3) / 0.7'''

So animals with a wildness of 30% or less won't require any handling skill whatsoever.

=== Interaction ===
Tamed animals can be trained by colonists. With Obedience trained, they will follow their master around if designated to do so.

Some animals can be milked or sheared, which will be handled if necessary. Only adult animals can be milked.

Occasionally, animals can nuzzle colonists, giving the colonist a mood buff and allowing the animal to be named. Animals can nuzzle anyone regardless of handling skill.

When injured, they will go to animal sleeping spots/ beds for rest and treatment.

=== Naming ===
Newly tamed animals get numerical designations so you can tell them apart (“Muffalo 1”, “Muffalo 2”, etc.). The game names certain animals when tamed or bought. Others are named when they nuzzle a colonist, or form a bond with them. Names can be changed by the player from the "Training" Tab.

Animals without a pet name may have a gender-specific name (i.e. hen, rooster, buck, doe), or a lifestage-specific name (piglet, warg puppy), or even a gender/lifestage-specific name (cockerel).

Names of tamed animals are not shown on the map unless the option is turned on. See Menu, Options, 'Show animal names'.

It is possible for animals which have been lost or sold to reappear later as part of a wild herd. This will only happen with animals which occur naturally on your colony's biome. They will still have the name you gave them (including automatic names like "Muffalo 2"), but will need to be tamed and trained again.

=== Training ===
Tamed animals may be trained depending on their trainable intelligence. Click the animal's training tab to specify training and view progress.

Once Obedience is trained, they can be assigned a master which they will follow. You can configure when the animals will follow their master, by toggling whether or not the animal will follow while doing field work (hunting/taming), or while drafted.

Many skills require multiple steps to fully train.

After a training attempt on a tamed animal, there is a 6 in-game hour waiting period before that same animal can be trained again.

Since Beta 19 skills now decay over time. The speed at which skills decay is dependent on wildness of the animal. For most animals their wildness is high enough such that their tameness decrease over time, such that they will eventually return to the wild if not maintained. For this reason, if you do not have enough skilled animal handlers to keep an animal's skills fresh, it is best to sell or slaughter it before it loses tameness.

{{:List of animal skills}}

=== Combat ===
Once Obedience is trained, animals will gather around their master upon drafting, and will attack nearby threats, or (unintentionally) block ranged attacks for their master.
 This is configurable and can be disabled by disabling follow during drafted.

With Release trained, animals can be released to attack threats from a distance.

Animals can be downed during combat, and can be rescued by colonists or other animals capable of Rescue.

=== Products ===
Certain tame animals produce milk, wool, or eggs. Shearing sometimes fails, indicated with a brief "product wasted" message.

==== [[Eggs]] ====
[[File:Eggs.png|32px|left|link=Eggs]]
{| {{STDT| sortable c_08 text-center}}
! Animal !! Eggs Per Clutch Average !! Egg Laying Interval !! Eggs Per Season Average
{{#ask: [[Concept:Production Animals]] [[Egg Laying Interval::+]]
| ?Eggs Per Clutch Average
| ?Egg Laying Interval
| ?Eggs Per Season Average
| format = template
| template = Animals/ProductsRow
| link = subject}}
|}

==== [[Milk]] ====
[[File:Milk.png|32px|left|link=Milk]]
{| {{STDT| sortable c_08 text-center}}
! Animal !! Milk Amount !! Milking Interval !! Daily Milk Average
{{#ask: [[Concept:Production Animals]] [[Milk Amount::+]]
| ?Milk Amount
| ?Milking Interval Days
| ?Daily Milk Average
| format = template
| template = Animals/ProductsRow
| link = subject}}
|}

==== [[Wool]] ====
[[File:Wool.png|32px|left|link=Wool]]
{| {{STDT| sortable c_08 text-center}}
! Animal !! Wool Amount !! Shearing Interval !! Daily Wool Average
{{#ask: [[Concept:Production Animals]] [[Wool Amount::+]]
| ?Wool Amount
| ?Shearing Interval Days
| ?Daily Wool Average
| format = template
| template = Animals/ProductsRow
| link = subject}}
|}

=== Slaughtering ===

Tamed animals may be slaughtered selecting the animal and clicking the Slaughter button, or by using the Slaughter tool from the Orders menu. An animal marked in this way will be slaughtered by an animal handler. The handler need not be equipped with a weapon.

If you try to slaughter a bonded animal, the game will warn you about it due to the mood impact this has on the animal's master.
[[File:SlaughterButton.png|52px|left|link=]]{{clear|left}}

=== Pack animals ===
Four animals, the [[Elephant]], [[Muffalo]], [[Dromedary]], [[Zebra]], and [[Alpaca]] can be used as pack animals and will carry items in [[caravan]]s. They have a capacity of 140 kg, 73.5 kg, 70 kg, and 35 kg respectively, and can graze meaning they don't usually require food.

When carrying items in their inventory, they will appear to have packs on, which disappear when unloaded.

=== Social ===
Each animal has a Social tab that lists that animal's bonds and relations. Clicking an entry jumps to that bond's counterpart. Bonded humans have a persistent mood bonus, unless they have the psychopath trait, while set as that animal's master. Animals do not have such thoughts or bonuses.

Occasionally, tame animals will nuzzle your colonists. More pet-like animals such as Yorkshire Terriers and Cats will nuzzle often, whereas wilder animals such as Timber Wolves and Grizzly Bears can still nuzzle colonists, but rarely do so. Since Alpha 16, animals can nuzzle patients in bed. A colonist who is nuzzled receives a +4 mood buff for 1 day.

=== Trade goods ===

Tamed animals may be sold to [[trade]]rs. Animals purchased from traders will be already tamed. Bulk goods traders offer pets and farm animals while exotic goods traders carry most of the wild species.

=== Raising animals ===

==== Growing haygrass ====
While the land can sustain a sizable population of animals grazing on it, it doesn't have an infinite supply and can still be depleted. If you need to raise a lot of animals at once, e.g. an exponentially growing group of [[chicken]]s, you will need to grow haygrass to sustain them all.

Haygrass gives a total of 0.9 nutrition (18 units of [[hay]]) when fully grown and harvested, compared to 0.15 of grass. However, you have to keep your hungry animals from getting to it otherwise they'll only get a max of 0.2 nutrition from eating the plant.

==== Making kibble ====
[[Kibble]] is a kind of animal feed made with both plant and animal sources. It can be made using haygrass and any kind of meat, including human or insect meat.

All animals except [[warg]]s can eat it, so it makes a good way to feed your animals using mixed sources of nutrition, including those that animals won't normally eat. Kibble also lasts forever under a roof so you can store it and use it to feed animals when in need, such as in winter when there is nothing to eat.

==== Bird coop ====
<gallery widths="400px" heights="400px" class="center" mode="nolines">
File:Chickens coop.png|An improvised chicken coop for chickens who just joined without "Taming".
File:Chickens released from coop to feed.png|Turkeys released from coop to feed.
</gallery>
Birds in general, migrate following weather, leaving the map when conditions are unsuitable. If you happen to have some in your colony, you will need to take care of them during winter as they are vulnerable to cold weather and may lose body parts to frostbite. Each according to their age will be more tolerant to cold. Construct a room with roof and a heater to keep them warm. They will need to be fed, either by creating an area to stock hay or free them during daytime so they can eat grass. They must be commanded to return before nightfall or risk being frozen (just returning to sleep isn't enough).

Birds will eventually produce eggs, make sure your main freezer settings doesn't allow fertilized eggs if you intend to keep them reproducing. You can create another stockpile zone within the chicken coop so that the eggs remain where they were placed by the birds themselves.

==== Pet care ====

Tamed animals that have a social bond to a person will affect the master's mood positively while living and negatively if killed (-8 for 20 days). This bond will either improve resistance against mental breaks or cause them. Because of the effect they cause on feelings, these creatures should be given special treatment, or any animal worth keeping alive.

These are a few tips to keep them safe:

* Keep them indoors by creating a new animal zone within a room.
* Keep them at the Home area after building a base wall.
* Prey animals should not be left wandering around in unrestricted area.
* Hunt their predators to prevent surprise attacks.
* Patrol your perimeter by zooming your view out to a larger scale but not to full, just enough to spot their sleeping animation of flying ZZZs while they rest at night. Sweeping your surroundings once every night shall keep you aware of threat presence.

<references/>

{{nav|animal}}
[[Category:Animals]]
[[Category:Wild]]

Animals

2020-02-05T20:38:49Z

Mayoculpa: /* Body heat */

{| align=center
| {{Characters_Nav}}
|}
----

{{Tocright}}
<onlyinclude>

{{for|a complete search|List of animals|}}

Wild animals occasionally spawn on the map according to the [[biomes|biome]] and from random events. These wild animals and tamed animals will wander and graze on vegetation, including player-grown plants, regardless of type. Growing [[Resources#Raw food|food]] outdoors can sometimes attract animals to your base perimeter. Animals are an important source of [[food]] by the meat they provide once [[Orders#Hunt|hunted]] and [[butcher table|butchered]].

Raiders will target tamed animals as often as colonists.

{{asof|A14}} animal trainers receive 90 XP per training attempt, which is increased from 60 in Alpha 13. Taming an animal also grants 90 XP per attempt, which previously did not occur. When animals nuzzle a colonist, it counts as a social interaction and is logged in the social tab of both the colonist and animal.

</onlyinclude>

== Animals Tab ==
The Animals tab is in the menu bar at the bottom of the screen. The default hotkey is {{key|F4}}.
* The Animals tab lists all the colony animals. Clicking an animal name will center the map to that animal.
* A button lists the animal's master, if it has one. Click the button to assign a new master.
* [[Zone/Area#Allowed area|Allowed areas]] are also listed here including Unrestricted, [[Home area]], and animal areas. Each animal stays in its assigned area unless its master is drafted.
* The <tt>[Manage areas...]</tt> button at the top of the tab opens a window to edit allowed areas.

{{asof|A14}} several features have been added to the Animals tab:
* Gender and life stage informational columns
* A "Slaughter" checkbox column to allow easy slaughtering of multiple tamed animals at once
* Checkbox columns for each trainable skill to allow easy training of many animals

== Appearance ==
Most animals appear to have no limbs, just as colonists do.

Some animals have different appearances between males and females.

== Behavior ==
*'''Wandering:''' Animals will wander the area when they have nothing else to do, e.g. eating or hunting. When wandering, some species of animals will tend to stay together in a herd. Others will spread out alone across the map.
*'''Filth:''' While walking on constructed floors they can leave animal filth. The rate of producing filth is proportional to body size and wildness.
*'''Forbidden food:''' Hungry tame animals will eat forbidden food and may even leave their allowed area.

=== Mating ===
Occasionally tamed males will approach a tamed female of the same species to initiate mating. The female will stand there, allowing males to mate with her. Afterwards the female can get pregnant. 
More than one male can mate with the same female at once.

Wild animals do not mate.

=== Fleeing ===
Passive animals will mostly flee when harmed. They will not flee if they are engaging in combat with an adversary. 
More aggressive animals will turn and attack instead of fleeing.

If a member of a herd is harmed or killed, the rest of the herd will flee as well, scattering around.

=== Aggression ===

Sometimes a single animal may go mad, or every animal of the same species be driven mad by a psychic wave, and attack any humans not behind closed doors.

If injured by a colonist or tamed pet, certain species of animals will become maddened into a manhunter state and will relentlessly seek out humans to attack. Sometimes nearby animals of the same species will be simultaneously enraged. Unless otherwise neutralized, a maddened animal will eventually return to a normal mood. Animals in manhunter state will attack doors if colonists try to go in and out of them.

Manhunter chances are listed in the Wildlife tab of the map screen, and also on the Info tab of each individual animal's information window.

[[File:Manhunter due to pet hunting.png|400px]]

=== Predation ===
Most carnivores are predators. When hungry, a predator will prefer an easy meal. They'll first go for meals or food types within their diet. They may go for a downed or dead animal or a human corpse. But when a hungry predator has no other food nearby, they will hunt, kill and consume almost any animal smaller than them, including your tamed animals or even your colonists. This can especially be a problem on maps with little wildlife, like on [[Biomes#Ice sheet|Ice sheets]] when a polar bear wanders in. Still, predators tend to choose more vulnerable and weaker animals, and wisely avoid boomrats and boomalopes. Their attacks usually stun their prey, leaving them unable to fight back or flee. A predator will focus all their attacks on their downed prey, so if they do down your colonists or livestock and you have a colonist nearby, then direct them to Rescue that downed pawn. It could mean the difference between life and death.

Predators include {{#ask: [[Category:Animals]] [[Is Predator::true]]}}.

If you successfully hide all colonists and tamed animals away from a predator's reach, it will hunt any other available wildlife.

It is not possible to view the Needs tab of a wild animal, so you may have to deduce whether or not a predator is hungry based on its behavior. They sometimes remain near the area where they last killed and ate an animal for about a day. Bloodstains or partially-consumed animal corpses on the ground are a fairly reliable guide, as well as a source of free leather and delicious leftovers. Be careful not to let a hauler take away a predator's food before it has finished eating. It will still be hungry and will hunt your colonist instead.

=== Body heat ===

Animals will give out body heat, slightly heating up their surroundings. This is insignificant most of the time. In enclosed barns with many animals packed, the heat can become a problem in warm weather or hot biomes, and a benefit in cold biomes or during winter.

== Breeding ==
Animals are born by live birth or by hatching from a fertilized egg.

=== Live Birth ===
Female animals that give live birth become pregnant when a male animal approaches them and mates. Only tamed animals may breed. An animal's gestation period specifies how long a female's pregnancy will last.

A pregnant animal suffering [[malnutrition]] or is injured may miscarry. Miscarriages are noted by an in-game message.

Live births produce amniotic fluid (see [[Filth]]).

Some animals will give birth to multiple young. The probability of this is determined by a curve, and is different for each animal.

Animals can breed with their own family members without penalty, even for repeated generational incest.

{| style="border-style: solid; border-width: 0px; text-align:left;"
|+ style="text-align:left;" | Pregnancy progresses in stages.
! scope="row" | Early stage (hidden)
|: Starts at 0%. This stage is not displayed but may be surmised by the vomiting it causes.
|-
! scope="row" | Middle stage
|: Starts at 33%. At this stage [[Health#Moving|Moving]] is reduced by 15%.
|-
! scope="row" | Late stage
|: Starts at 66%. At this stage [[Health#Moving|Moving]] is reduced by 30% and may include vomiting.
|-
! scope="row" | Full term
|: At 100%. At this point the female will give birth. Some species may have multiple offspring in a litter.
|}

=== Eggs ===
Egg-laying animals include {{#ask: [[Category:Animals]] [[Egg Laying Interval::+]]}}. Females become fertilized after mating with males, causing them to lay fertilized eggs. Most animals will not lay unfertilized eggs, with the exception of [[chicken]]s.

Fertilized eggs display their progress on the inspect pane and hatch when ready.

Fertilized eggs can be ruined by temperature if not kept within their safe temperature range of {{temperature|1}} to {{temperature|49}}.
: Eggs may start to overheat at/above {{temperature|50}}.
: Eggs may start to freeze at/below {{temperature|0}}.

The inspect pane will indicate 'Overheating' or 'Freezing' followed by a percentage rising up to 100%. This status is halted when safe temperate is restored, but it is not reset - if the temperature is unsafe again, it will pick up where it left off. If it reaches 100% the egg is 'ruined by temperature' and will not hatch even if returned to a suitable area. A ruined egg still has full nutritional value and can be used to make a meal (or eaten raw, with a mood debuff).

== Diet ==
While most carnivorous animals can eat raw meat, corpses, kibble, and meals, [[Warg]]s can ''only'' eat raw meat and corpses.

All strictly herbivorous animals and some omnivorous animals (notably pigs and boars) can eat live plants (except trees) and haygrass. 
Dendrovorous animals such as the [[alphabeaver]] and the [[thrumbo]] can eat trees, in addition to other plant-based foods.

Because all animals except wargs can eat meals, [[kibble]], and [[pemmican]], it is possible to feed meat to herbivores or plants to carnivores if it is prepared first.

== Health ==
Animals have the same set-up as humans when it comes to health, minus the ability to operate on them (except euthanasia)(The option to amputate an infected limb can become available once infection sets in, at least on Thrumbos—assuming other animals as well). They feel pain, and have all of the different health stats that human pawns possess. Needs to have an animal bed (or sleeping spot) to be healed.

Like humans, they have a life expectancy, and are affected by [[Ailments|chronic diseases]]. There is no way to cure them in the base game other than [[Healer mech serum]], which would be incredibly expensive.

== Hunting ==
[[File:Hunt.png|42px]]

Wild animals may be marked for hunting, done by [[Menus#Hunt|hunters]] with ranged weapons, who will proceed to shoot them at maximum range, before executing them with a neck cut when they are downed (except explosive animals). After killing their target, they will haul the carcass to a [[stockpile zone]] even if they are naturally incapable of hauling, but will not start hauling it again if they're interrupted.

Animals harmed by hunting that were not killed yet may become enraged and if its a pack type, its full horde may turn hostile against the entire colony. If they are non-aggressive animals they usually flee instead.

Hunting may take longer during bad weather since there's a shooting modifier while it's raining or snowing that makes it more likely for shots to miss.
* Fog (with or without rain): hit chance multiplier is 50%.
* Rain or snow: hit chance multiplier is 80%.

{{clear|left}}
To mark animals to be hunted use one of the following methods:
*Click Wildlife, Click the first red X to the right of the animal you want to hunt and change it to a green check mark
*Click Orders, Hunt, then click one or more individual animals.
*Click Orders, Hunt, then click and drag a box to surround and select multiple animals.
*Select one or more animals, click Hunt.

=== Hunting tips ===

* Animals can be hunted manually instead of just using the hunt order by drafting a colonist and right clicking to fire at animals. This allows the killing of multiple animals in one session, or hunting from close range. Closer range reduces the chance of missing shots or unintended friendly fire, but raises the chance of provoking animal revenge.

* In the occasion of a full horde revenge, early-stage colonies may easily become overrun, leaving all colonists downed. But down is not out. While players may instantly think of loading the latest save and re-try (aka. save-scumming), it's unnecessary and unchallenging. Eventually, one or more of your colonists may recover. With luck, this miracle may take place at nightfall, when wildlife sleep (except for the most enraged beasts among those), or they have wandered far enough, opening a chance to rescue everybody else. The manhunter status of the horde will disappear overnight.
**[[Defense tactics#Melee blocking|Melee blocking]] could be a valuable tactic to defeat the rampaging animals. In addition to making it easier to defeat the animals even when outnumbered, it also keeps your downed colonists near your base for easy rescue.

== Life Stages ==
Animals all have three different life stages. Animals have different graphics for different life stages, or may simply appear smaller. Animals start out as babies and their age is listed as minutes, hours, or months. Some animals have a specific name for this stage (e.g. chick). They then move on to juveniles (teenagers). Eventually, they reach the final life stage, adulthood. In the stages before adulthood, animals have lower stats (body size, health scale, mass, carrying capacity, move speed, hunger rate, meat amount, leather amount, market value) that normalize when they reach adulthood. Animals have different sounds (call, anger, wounded, death) for different life stages. Babies may simply make a higher pitched sound, or have a different sound altogether (such as chicks). Depending on the species, animals will need to reach the juvenile or adult stage before they can reproduce.

== Needs ==
Animals require food and sleep and will fulfill their needs on their own.

'''Food:''' Animals will eat any available food according to their diet. Herbivorous animals of the colony can be left to eat grass on their own. Note that animals require different amounts of food compared to humans, as represented by their [[Hunger Rate]].

'''Rest:''' Animals will sleep as needed. Tamed animals will sleep in [[animal sleeping spot]]s, [[animal sleeping box]]es, or [[animal bed]]s. If none of which are available, the animal will crash out on the ground inside its allowed zone. A tamed animal will not sleep as long as its master is drafted.

== Animal husbandry ==

Animals can be tamed and put to use in the colony, providing several benefits.

=== Taming ===
Wild animals can be tamed by a [[Menus#Handle|animal handler]] with sufficient Animal skill and available food. Tamed animals may be bred, trained, traded, slaughtered, or farmed.

Wild animals may be marked for taming using the Tame button.
[[File:TameButton.png|52px|left|link=]]{{clear}}

An [[Menus#Handle|animal handler]] will attempt to tame marked animals using food fitting that animal's diet. The chance to tame an animal depends on the animal's wildness (displayed on the info window) and the handler's 'Tame animal chance' stat. This stat is determined by the colonist's [[Skills#Animals|animals skill]], [[Health#Manipulation|manipulation]], and [[Health#Talking|talking]]. When a handler fails to tame an animal there is a cooldown period before another attempt can be made and there's a small chance it will turn manhunter and start attacking the handler and others. After a while the handler may drop unused food. Tamed animals will remain in or near the colony or they may be assigned to animal areas to contain them. Setting animal areas is usually necessary to restrict them from eating food not intended for them.

==== Tame chances ====
Besides the animal handler's own skill, the wildness of the animals also counts.

Tame chances undergo a post-processing curve.
*An animal with 0% wildness has a x2 taming chance.
*An animal with 50% wildness has normal taming chance.
*An animal with 100% wildness cannot be tamed at all.
*When an animal has its wounds tended by a colonist, there is a constant 0.4% chance of the animal will self-tame and bond with the colonist, regardless of wildness.

Currently, the hardest to tame animal is the [[Thrumbo]] with a post-processed taming chance of 3%.

[[List of animals|Animals]] with 0% wildness remain tame forever. An animal with a wildness above 0% needs to have maintenance training in Tameness. If it loses all Tameness it will go back to being wild.

==== Minimum skill ====

Some animals require a minimum skill before they can be handled. The game will prompt the player if no colonist has enough skill to handle the animal. In this case a colonist has only 1 point as an utter beginner and has learning ability, the easiest...

* Animals that require no points (zero) to tame are: Alpaca, Cat, Chicken, Cow, Dromedary, Husky, Labrador retriever, Pig and Yorkshire terrier.

An animal's handling skill requirement is calculated as follows:

'''Skill = 9 * (wildness - 0.3) / 0.7'''

So animals with a wildness of 30% or less won't require any handling skill whatsoever.

=== Interaction ===
Tamed animals can be trained by colonists. With Obedience trained, they will follow their master around if designated to do so.

Some animals can be milked or sheared, which will be handled if necessary. Only adult animals can be milked.

Occasionally, animals can nuzzle colonists, giving the colonist a mood buff and allowing the animal to be named. Animals can nuzzle anyone regardless of handling skill.

When injured, they will go to animal sleeping spots/ beds for rest and treatment.

=== Naming ===
Newly tamed animals get numerical designations so you can tell them apart (“Muffalo 1”, “Muffalo 2”, etc.). The game names certain animals when tamed or bought. Others are named when they nuzzle a colonist, or form a bond with them. Names can be changed by the player from the "Training" Tab.

Animals without a pet name may have a gender-specific name (i.e. hen, rooster, buck, doe), or a lifestage-specific name (piglet, warg puppy), or even a gender/lifestage-specific name (cockerel).

Names of tamed animals are not shown on the map unless the option is turned on. See Menu, Options, 'Show animal names'.

It is possible for animals which have been lost or sold to reappear later as part of a wild herd. This will only happen with animals which occur naturally on your colony's biome. They will still have the name you gave them (including automatic names like "Muffalo 2"), but will need to be tamed and trained again.

=== Training ===
Tamed animals may be trained depending on their trainable intelligence. Click the animal's training tab to specify training and view progress.

Once Obedience is trained, they can be assigned a master which they will follow. You can configure when the animals will follow their master, by toggling whether or not the animal will follow while doing field work (hunting/taming), or while drafted.

Many skills require multiple steps to fully train.

After a training attempt on a tamed animal, there is a 6 in-game hour waiting period before that same animal can be trained again.

Since Beta 19 skills now decay over time. The speed at which skills decay is dependent on wildness of the animal. For most animals their wildness is high enough such that their tameness decrease over time, such that they will eventually return to the wild if not maintained. For this reason, if you do not have enough skilled animal handlers to keep an animal's skills fresh, it is best to sell or slaughter it before it loses tameness.

{{:List of animal skills}}

=== Combat ===
Once Obedience is trained, animals will gather around their master upon drafting, and will attack nearby threats, or (unintentionally) block ranged attacks for their master.
 This is configurable and can be disabled by disabling follow during drafted.

With Release trained, animals can be released to attack threats from a distance.

Animals can be downed during combat, and can be rescued by colonists or other animals capable of Rescue.

=== Products ===
Certain tame animals produce milk, wool, or eggs. Shearing sometimes fails, indicated with a brief "product wasted" message.

==== [[Eggs]] ====
[[File:Eggs.png|32px|left|link=Eggs]]
{| {{STDT| sortable c_08 text-center}}
! Animal !! Eggs Per Clutch Average !! Egg Laying Interval !! Eggs Per Season Average
{{#ask: [[Concept:Production Animals]] [[Egg Laying Interval::+]]
| ?Eggs Per Clutch Average
| ?Egg Laying Interval
| ?Eggs Per Season Average
| format = template
| template = Animals/ProductsRow
| link = subject}}
|}

==== [[Milk]] ====
[[File:Milk.png|32px|left|link=Milk]]
{| {{STDT| sortable c_08 text-center}}
! Animal !! Milk Amount !! Milking Interval !! Daily Milk Average
{{#ask: [[Concept:Production Animals]] [[Milk Amount::+]]
| ?Milk Amount
| ?Milking Interval Days
| ?Daily Milk Average
| format = template
| template = Animals/ProductsRow
| link = subject}}
|}

==== [[Wool]] ====
[[File:Wool.png|32px|left|link=Wool]]
{| {{STDT| sortable c_08 text-center}}
! Animal !! Wool Amount !! Shearing Interval !! Daily Wool Average
{{#ask: [[Concept:Production Animals]] [[Wool Amount::+]]
| ?Wool Amount
| ?Shearing Interval Days
| ?Daily Wool Average
| format = template
| template = Animals/ProductsRow
| link = subject}}
|}

=== Slaughtering ===

Tamed animals may be slaughtered selecting the animal and clicking the Slaughter button, or by using the Slaughter tool from the Orders menu. An animal marked in this way will be slaughtered by an animal handler. The handler need not be equipped with a weapon.

If you try to slaughter a bonded animal, the game will warn you about it due to the mood impact this has on the animal's master.
[[File:SlaughterButton.png|52px|left|link=]]{{clear|left}}

=== Pack animals ===
Four animals, the [[Elephant]], [[Muffalo]], [[Dromedary]], [[Zebra]], and [[Alpaca]] can be used as pack animals and will carry items in [[caravan]]s. They have a capacity of 140 kg, 73.5 kg, 70 kg, and 35 kg respectively, and can graze meaning they don't usually require food.

When carrying items in their inventory, they will appear to have packs on, which disappear when unloaded.

=== Social ===
Each animal has a Social tab that lists that animal's bonds and relations. Clicking an entry jumps to that bond's counterpart. Bonded humans have a persistent mood bonus, unless they have the psychopath trait, while set as that animal's master. Animals do not have such thoughts or bonuses.

Occasionally, tame animals will nuzzle your colonists. More pet-like animals such as Yorkshire Terriers and Cats will nuzzle often, whereas wilder animals such as Timber Wolves and Grizzly Bears can still nuzzle colonists, but rarely do so. Since Alpha 16, animals can nuzzle patients in bed. A colonist who is nuzzled receives a +4 mood buff for 1 day.

=== Trade goods ===

Tamed animals may be sold to [[trade]]rs. Animals purchased from traders will be already tamed. Bulk goods traders offer pets and farm animals while exotic goods traders carry most of the wild species.

=== Raising animals ===

==== Growing haygrass ====
While the land can sustain a sizable population of animals grazing on it, it doesn't have an infinite supply and can still be depleted. If you need to raise a lot of animals at once, e.g. an exponentially growing group of [[chicken]]s, you will need to grow haygrass to sustain them all.

Haygrass gives a total of 0.9 nutrition (18 units of [[hay]]) when fully grown and harvested, compared to 0.15 of grass. However, you have to keep your hungry animals from getting to it otherwise they'll only get a max of 0.2 nutrition from eating the plant.

==== Making kibble ====
[[Kibble]] is a kind of animal feed made with both plant and animal sources. It can be made using haygrass and any kind of meat, including human or insect meat.

All animals except [[warg]]s can eat it, so it makes a good way to feed your animals using mixed sources of nutrition, including those that animals won't normally eat. Kibble also lasts forever under a roof so you can store it and use it to feed animals when in need, such as in winter when there is nothing to eat.

==== Bird coop ====
<gallery widths="400px" heights="400px" class="center" mode="nolines">
File:Chickens coop.png|An improvised chicken coop for chickens who just joined without "Taming".
File:Chickens released from coop to feed.png|Turkeys released from coop to feed.
</gallery>
Birds in general, migrate following weather, leaving the map when conditions are unsuitable. If you happen to have some in your colony, you will need to take care of them during winter as they are vulnerable to cold weather and may lose body parts to frostbite. Each according to their age will be more tolerant to cold. Construct a room with roof and a heater to keep them warm. They will need to be fed, either by creating an area to stock hay or free them during daytime so they can eat grass. They must be commanded to return before nightfall or risk being frozen (just returning to sleep isn't enough).

Birds will eventually produce eggs, make sure your main freezer settings doesn't allow fertilized eggs if you intend to keep them reproducing. You can create another stockpile zone within the chicken coop so that the eggs remain where they were placed by the birds themselves.

==== Pet care ====

Tamed animals that have a social bond to a person will affect the master's mood positively while living and negatively if killed (-8 for 20 days). This bond will either improve resistance against mental breaks or cause them. Because of the effect they cause on feelings, these creatures should be given special treatment, or any animal worth keeping alive.

These are a few tips to keep them safe:

* Keep them indoors by creating a new animal zone within a room.
* Keep them at the Home area after building a base wall.
* Prey animals should not be left wandering around in unrestricted area.
* Hunt their predators to prevent surprise attacks.
* Patrol your perimeter by zooming your view out to a larger scale but not to full, just enough to spot their sleeping animation of flying ZZZs while they rest at night. Sweeping your surroundings once every night shall keep you aware of threat presence.

<references/>

{{nav|animal}}
[[Category:Animals]]
[[Category:Wild]]

Animals

2020-02-05T20:37:42Z

Mayoculpa: /* Predation */

{| align=center
| {{Characters_Nav}}
|}
----

{{Tocright}}
<onlyinclude>

{{for|a complete search|List of animals|}}

Wild animals occasionally spawn on the map according to the [[biomes|biome]] and from random events. These wild animals and tamed animals will wander and graze on vegetation, including player-grown plants, regardless of type. Growing [[Resources#Raw food|food]] outdoors can sometimes attract animals to your base perimeter. Animals are an important source of [[food]] by the meat they provide once [[Orders#Hunt|hunted]] and [[butcher table|butchered]].

Raiders will target tamed animals as often as colonists.

{{asof|A14}} animal trainers receive 90 XP per training attempt, which is increased from 60 in Alpha 13. Taming an animal also grants 90 XP per attempt, which previously did not occur. When animals nuzzle a colonist, it counts as a social interaction and is logged in the social tab of both the colonist and animal.

</onlyinclude>

== Animals Tab ==
The Animals tab is in the menu bar at the bottom of the screen. The default hotkey is {{key|F4}}.
* The Animals tab lists all the colony animals. Clicking an animal name will center the map to that animal.
* A button lists the animal's master, if it has one. Click the button to assign a new master.
* [[Zone/Area#Allowed area|Allowed areas]] are also listed here including Unrestricted, [[Home area]], and animal areas. Each animal stays in its assigned area unless its master is drafted.
* The <tt>[Manage areas...]</tt> button at the top of the tab opens a window to edit allowed areas.

{{asof|A14}} several features have been added to the Animals tab:
* Gender and life stage informational columns
* A "Slaughter" checkbox column to allow easy slaughtering of multiple tamed animals at once
* Checkbox columns for each trainable skill to allow easy training of many animals

== Appearance ==
Most animals appear to have no limbs, just as colonists do.

Some animals have different appearances between males and females.

== Behavior ==
*'''Wandering:''' Animals will wander the area when they have nothing else to do, e.g. eating or hunting. When wandering, some species of animals will tend to stay together in a herd. Others will spread out alone across the map.
*'''Filth:''' While walking on constructed floors they can leave animal filth. The rate of producing filth is proportional to body size and wildness.
*'''Forbidden food:''' Hungry tame animals will eat forbidden food and may even leave their allowed area.

=== Mating ===
Occasionally tamed males will approach a tamed female of the same species to initiate mating. The female will stand there, allowing males to mate with her. Afterwards the female can get pregnant. 
More than one male can mate with the same female at once.

Wild animals do not mate.

=== Fleeing ===
Passive animals will mostly flee when harmed. They will not flee if they are engaging in combat with an adversary. 
More aggressive animals will turn and attack instead of fleeing.

If a member of a herd is harmed or killed, the rest of the herd will flee as well, scattering around.

=== Aggression ===

Sometimes a single animal may go mad, or every animal of the same species be driven mad by a psychic wave, and attack any humans not behind closed doors.

If injured by a colonist or tamed pet, certain species of animals will become maddened into a manhunter state and will relentlessly seek out humans to attack. Sometimes nearby animals of the same species will be simultaneously enraged. Unless otherwise neutralized, a maddened animal will eventually return to a normal mood. Animals in manhunter state will attack doors if colonists try to go in and out of them.

Manhunter chances are listed in the Wildlife tab of the map screen, and also on the Info tab of each individual animal's information window.

[[File:Manhunter due to pet hunting.png|400px]]

=== Predation ===
Most carnivores are predators. When hungry, a predator will prefer an easy meal. They'll first go for meals or food types within their diet. They may go for a downed or dead animal or a human corpse. But when a hungry predator has no other food nearby, they will hunt, kill and consume almost any animal smaller than them, including your tamed animals or even your colonists. This can especially be a problem on maps with little wildlife, like on [[Biomes#Ice sheet|Ice sheets]] when a polar bear wanders in. Still, predators tend to choose more vulnerable and weaker animals, and wisely avoid boomrats and boomalopes. Their attacks usually stun their prey, leaving them unable to fight back or flee. A predator will focus all their attacks on their downed prey, so if they do down your colonists or livestock and you have a colonist nearby, then direct them to Rescue that downed pawn. It could mean the difference between life and death.

Predators include {{#ask: [[Category:Animals]] [[Is Predator::true]]}}.

If you successfully hide all colonists and tamed animals away from a predator's reach, it will hunt any other available wildlife.

It is not possible to view the Needs tab of a wild animal, so you may have to deduce whether or not a predator is hungry based on its behavior. They sometimes remain near the area where they last killed and ate an animal for about a day. Bloodstains or partially-consumed animal corpses on the ground are a fairly reliable guide, as well as a source of free leather and delicious leftovers. Be careful not to let a hauler take away a predator's food before it has finished eating. It will still be hungry and will hunt your colonist instead.

=== Body heat ===

Animals will give out body heat, slightly heating up their surroundings. This is insignificant most of the time, but in enclosed barns with many animals packed, the heat can quickly become a problem.

== Breeding ==
Animals are born by live birth or by hatching from a fertilized egg.

=== Live Birth ===
Female animals that give live birth become pregnant when a male animal approaches them and mates. Only tamed animals may breed. An animal's gestation period specifies how long a female's pregnancy will last.

A pregnant animal suffering [[malnutrition]] or is injured may miscarry. Miscarriages are noted by an in-game message.

Live births produce amniotic fluid (see [[Filth]]).

Some animals will give birth to multiple young. The probability of this is determined by a curve, and is different for each animal.

Animals can breed with their own family members without penalty, even for repeated generational incest.

{| style="border-style: solid; border-width: 0px; text-align:left;"
|+ style="text-align:left;" | Pregnancy progresses in stages.
! scope="row" | Early stage (hidden)
|: Starts at 0%. This stage is not displayed but may be surmised by the vomiting it causes.
|-
! scope="row" | Middle stage
|: Starts at 33%. At this stage [[Health#Moving|Moving]] is reduced by 15%.
|-
! scope="row" | Late stage
|: Starts at 66%. At this stage [[Health#Moving|Moving]] is reduced by 30% and may include vomiting.
|-
! scope="row" | Full term
|: At 100%. At this point the female will give birth. Some species may have multiple offspring in a litter.
|}

=== Eggs ===
Egg-laying animals include {{#ask: [[Category:Animals]] [[Egg Laying Interval::+]]}}. Females become fertilized after mating with males, causing them to lay fertilized eggs. Most animals will not lay unfertilized eggs, with the exception of [[chicken]]s.

Fertilized eggs display their progress on the inspect pane and hatch when ready.

Fertilized eggs can be ruined by temperature if not kept within their safe temperature range of {{temperature|1}} to {{temperature|49}}.
: Eggs may start to overheat at/above {{temperature|50}}.
: Eggs may start to freeze at/below {{temperature|0}}.

The inspect pane will indicate 'Overheating' or 'Freezing' followed by a percentage rising up to 100%. This status is halted when safe temperate is restored, but it is not reset - if the temperature is unsafe again, it will pick up where it left off. If it reaches 100% the egg is 'ruined by temperature' and will not hatch even if returned to a suitable area. A ruined egg still has full nutritional value and can be used to make a meal (or eaten raw, with a mood debuff).

== Diet ==
While most carnivorous animals can eat raw meat, corpses, kibble, and meals, [[Warg]]s can ''only'' eat raw meat and corpses.

All strictly herbivorous animals and some omnivorous animals (notably pigs and boars) can eat live plants (except trees) and haygrass. 
Dendrovorous animals such as the [[alphabeaver]] and the [[thrumbo]] can eat trees, in addition to other plant-based foods.

Because all animals except wargs can eat meals, [[kibble]], and [[pemmican]], it is possible to feed meat to herbivores or plants to carnivores if it is prepared first.

== Health ==
Animals have the same set-up as humans when it comes to health, minus the ability to operate on them (except euthanasia)(The option to amputate an infected limb can become available once infection sets in, at least on Thrumbos—assuming other animals as well). They feel pain, and have all of the different health stats that human pawns possess. Needs to have an animal bed (or sleeping spot) to be healed.

Like humans, they have a life expectancy, and are affected by [[Ailments|chronic diseases]]. There is no way to cure them in the base game other than [[Healer mech serum]], which would be incredibly expensive.

== Hunting ==
[[File:Hunt.png|42px]]

Wild animals may be marked for hunting, done by [[Menus#Hunt|hunters]] with ranged weapons, who will proceed to shoot them at maximum range, before executing them with a neck cut when they are downed (except explosive animals). After killing their target, they will haul the carcass to a [[stockpile zone]] even if they are naturally incapable of hauling, but will not start hauling it again if they're interrupted.

Animals harmed by hunting that were not killed yet may become enraged and if its a pack type, its full horde may turn hostile against the entire colony. If they are non-aggressive animals they usually flee instead.

Hunting may take longer during bad weather since there's a shooting modifier while it's raining or snowing that makes it more likely for shots to miss.
* Fog (with or without rain): hit chance multiplier is 50%.
* Rain or snow: hit chance multiplier is 80%.

{{clear|left}}
To mark animals to be hunted use one of the following methods:
*Click Wildlife, Click the first red X to the right of the animal you want to hunt and change it to a green check mark
*Click Orders, Hunt, then click one or more individual animals.
*Click Orders, Hunt, then click and drag a box to surround and select multiple animals.
*Select one or more animals, click Hunt.

=== Hunting tips ===

* Animals can be hunted manually instead of just using the hunt order by drafting a colonist and right clicking to fire at animals. This allows the killing of multiple animals in one session, or hunting from close range. Closer range reduces the chance of missing shots or unintended friendly fire, but raises the chance of provoking animal revenge.

* In the occasion of a full horde revenge, early-stage colonies may easily become overrun, leaving all colonists downed. But down is not out. While players may instantly think of loading the latest save and re-try (aka. save-scumming), it's unnecessary and unchallenging. Eventually, one or more of your colonists may recover. With luck, this miracle may take place at nightfall, when wildlife sleep (except for the most enraged beasts among those), or they have wandered far enough, opening a chance to rescue everybody else. The manhunter status of the horde will disappear overnight.
**[[Defense tactics#Melee blocking|Melee blocking]] could be a valuable tactic to defeat the rampaging animals. In addition to making it easier to defeat the animals even when outnumbered, it also keeps your downed colonists near your base for easy rescue.

== Life Stages ==
Animals all have three different life stages. Animals have different graphics for different life stages, or may simply appear smaller. Animals start out as babies and their age is listed as minutes, hours, or months. Some animals have a specific name for this stage (e.g. chick). They then move on to juveniles (teenagers). Eventually, they reach the final life stage, adulthood. In the stages before adulthood, animals have lower stats (body size, health scale, mass, carrying capacity, move speed, hunger rate, meat amount, leather amount, market value) that normalize when they reach adulthood. Animals have different sounds (call, anger, wounded, death) for different life stages. Babies may simply make a higher pitched sound, or have a different sound altogether (such as chicks). Depending on the species, animals will need to reach the juvenile or adult stage before they can reproduce.

== Needs ==
Animals require food and sleep and will fulfill their needs on their own.

'''Food:''' Animals will eat any available food according to their diet. Herbivorous animals of the colony can be left to eat grass on their own. Note that animals require different amounts of food compared to humans, as represented by their [[Hunger Rate]].

'''Rest:''' Animals will sleep as needed. Tamed animals will sleep in [[animal sleeping spot]]s, [[animal sleeping box]]es, or [[animal bed]]s. If none of which are available, the animal will crash out on the ground inside its allowed zone. A tamed animal will not sleep as long as its master is drafted.

== Animal husbandry ==

Animals can be tamed and put to use in the colony, providing several benefits.

=== Taming ===
Wild animals can be tamed by a [[Menus#Handle|animal handler]] with sufficient Animal skill and available food. Tamed animals may be bred, trained, traded, slaughtered, or farmed.

Wild animals may be marked for taming using the Tame button.
[[File:TameButton.png|52px|left|link=]]{{clear}}

An [[Menus#Handle|animal handler]] will attempt to tame marked animals using food fitting that animal's diet. The chance to tame an animal depends on the animal's wildness (displayed on the info window) and the handler's 'Tame animal chance' stat. This stat is determined by the colonist's [[Skills#Animals|animals skill]], [[Health#Manipulation|manipulation]], and [[Health#Talking|talking]]. When a handler fails to tame an animal there is a cooldown period before another attempt can be made and there's a small chance it will turn manhunter and start attacking the handler and others. After a while the handler may drop unused food. Tamed animals will remain in or near the colony or they may be assigned to animal areas to contain them. Setting animal areas is usually necessary to restrict them from eating food not intended for them.

==== Tame chances ====
Besides the animal handler's own skill, the wildness of the animals also counts.

Tame chances undergo a post-processing curve.
*An animal with 0% wildness has a x2 taming chance.
*An animal with 50% wildness has normal taming chance.
*An animal with 100% wildness cannot be tamed at all.
*When an animal has its wounds tended by a colonist, there is a constant 0.4% chance of the animal will self-tame and bond with the colonist, regardless of wildness.

Currently, the hardest to tame animal is the [[Thrumbo]] with a post-processed taming chance of 3%.

[[List of animals|Animals]] with 0% wildness remain tame forever. An animal with a wildness above 0% needs to have maintenance training in Tameness. If it loses all Tameness it will go back to being wild.

==== Minimum skill ====

Some animals require a minimum skill before they can be handled. The game will prompt the player if no colonist has enough skill to handle the animal. In this case a colonist has only 1 point as an utter beginner and has learning ability, the easiest...

* Animals that require no points (zero) to tame are: Alpaca, Cat, Chicken, Cow, Dromedary, Husky, Labrador retriever, Pig and Yorkshire terrier.

An animal's handling skill requirement is calculated as follows:

'''Skill = 9 * (wildness - 0.3) / 0.7'''

So animals with a wildness of 30% or less won't require any handling skill whatsoever.

=== Interaction ===
Tamed animals can be trained by colonists. With Obedience trained, they will follow their master around if designated to do so.

Some animals can be milked or sheared, which will be handled if necessary. Only adult animals can be milked.

Occasionally, animals can nuzzle colonists, giving the colonist a mood buff and allowing the animal to be named. Animals can nuzzle anyone regardless of handling skill.

When injured, they will go to animal sleeping spots/ beds for rest and treatment.

=== Naming ===
Newly tamed animals get numerical designations so you can tell them apart (“Muffalo 1”, “Muffalo 2”, etc.). The game names certain animals when tamed or bought. Others are named when they nuzzle a colonist, or form a bond with them. Names can be changed by the player from the "Training" Tab.

Animals without a pet name may have a gender-specific name (i.e. hen, rooster, buck, doe), or a lifestage-specific name (piglet, warg puppy), or even a gender/lifestage-specific name (cockerel).

Names of tamed animals are not shown on the map unless the option is turned on. See Menu, Options, 'Show animal names'.

It is possible for animals which have been lost or sold to reappear later as part of a wild herd. This will only happen with animals which occur naturally on your colony's biome. They will still have the name you gave them (including automatic names like "Muffalo 2"), but will need to be tamed and trained again.

=== Training ===
Tamed animals may be trained depending on their trainable intelligence. Click the animal's training tab to specify training and view progress.

Once Obedience is trained, they can be assigned a master which they will follow. You can configure when the animals will follow their master, by toggling whether or not the animal will follow while doing field work (hunting/taming), or while drafted.

Many skills require multiple steps to fully train.

After a training attempt on a tamed animal, there is a 6 in-game hour waiting period before that same animal can be trained again.

Since Beta 19 skills now decay over time. The speed at which skills decay is dependent on wildness of the animal. For most animals their wildness is high enough such that their tameness decrease over time, such that they will eventually return to the wild if not maintained. For this reason, if you do not have enough skilled animal handlers to keep an animal's skills fresh, it is best to sell or slaughter it before it loses tameness.

{{:List of animal skills}}

=== Combat ===
Once Obedience is trained, animals will gather around their master upon drafting, and will attack nearby threats, or (unintentionally) block ranged attacks for their master.
 This is configurable and can be disabled by disabling follow during drafted.

With Release trained, animals can be released to attack threats from a distance.

Animals can be downed during combat, and can be rescued by colonists or other animals capable of Rescue.

=== Products ===
Certain tame animals produce milk, wool, or eggs. Shearing sometimes fails, indicated with a brief "product wasted" message.

==== [[Eggs]] ====
[[File:Eggs.png|32px|left|link=Eggs]]
{| {{STDT| sortable c_08 text-center}}
! Animal !! Eggs Per Clutch Average !! Egg Laying Interval !! Eggs Per Season Average
{{#ask: [[Concept:Production Animals]] [[Egg Laying Interval::+]]
| ?Eggs Per Clutch Average
| ?Egg Laying Interval
| ?Eggs Per Season Average
| format = template
| template = Animals/ProductsRow
| link = subject}}
|}

==== [[Milk]] ====
[[File:Milk.png|32px|left|link=Milk]]
{| {{STDT| sortable c_08 text-center}}
! Animal !! Milk Amount !! Milking Interval !! Daily Milk Average
{{#ask: [[Concept:Production Animals]] [[Milk Amount::+]]
| ?Milk Amount
| ?Milking Interval Days
| ?Daily Milk Average
| format = template
| template = Animals/ProductsRow
| link = subject}}
|}

==== [[Wool]] ====
[[File:Wool.png|32px|left|link=Wool]]
{| {{STDT| sortable c_08 text-center}}
! Animal !! Wool Amount !! Shearing Interval !! Daily Wool Average
{{#ask: [[Concept:Production Animals]] [[Wool Amount::+]]
| ?Wool Amount
| ?Shearing Interval Days
| ?Daily Wool Average
| format = template
| template = Animals/ProductsRow
| link = subject}}
|}

=== Slaughtering ===

Tamed animals may be slaughtered selecting the animal and clicking the Slaughter button, or by using the Slaughter tool from the Orders menu. An animal marked in this way will be slaughtered by an animal handler. The handler need not be equipped with a weapon.

If you try to slaughter a bonded animal, the game will warn you about it due to the mood impact this has on the animal's master.
[[File:SlaughterButton.png|52px|left|link=]]{{clear|left}}

=== Pack animals ===
Four animals, the [[Elephant]], [[Muffalo]], [[Dromedary]], [[Zebra]], and [[Alpaca]] can be used as pack animals and will carry items in [[caravan]]s. They have a capacity of 140 kg, 73.5 kg, 70 kg, and 35 kg respectively, and can graze meaning they don't usually require food.

When carrying items in their inventory, they will appear to have packs on, which disappear when unloaded.

=== Social ===
Each animal has a Social tab that lists that animal's bonds and relations. Clicking an entry jumps to that bond's counterpart. Bonded humans have a persistent mood bonus, unless they have the psychopath trait, while set as that animal's master. Animals do not have such thoughts or bonuses.

Occasionally, tame animals will nuzzle your colonists. More pet-like animals such as Yorkshire Terriers and Cats will nuzzle often, whereas wilder animals such as Timber Wolves and Grizzly Bears can still nuzzle colonists, but rarely do so. Since Alpha 16, animals can nuzzle patients in bed. A colonist who is nuzzled receives a +4 mood buff for 1 day.

=== Trade goods ===

Tamed animals may be sold to [[trade]]rs. Animals purchased from traders will be already tamed. Bulk goods traders offer pets and farm animals while exotic goods traders carry most of the wild species.

=== Raising animals ===

==== Growing haygrass ====
While the land can sustain a sizable population of animals grazing on it, it doesn't have an infinite supply and can still be depleted. If you need to raise a lot of animals at once, e.g. an exponentially growing group of [[chicken]]s, you will need to grow haygrass to sustain them all.

Haygrass gives a total of 0.9 nutrition (18 units of [[hay]]) when fully grown and harvested, compared to 0.15 of grass. However, you have to keep your hungry animals from getting to it otherwise they'll only get a max of 0.2 nutrition from eating the plant.

==== Making kibble ====
[[Kibble]] is a kind of animal feed made with both plant and animal sources. It can be made using haygrass and any kind of meat, including human or insect meat.

All animals except [[warg]]s can eat it, so it makes a good way to feed your animals using mixed sources of nutrition, including those that animals won't normally eat. Kibble also lasts forever under a roof so you can store it and use it to feed animals when in need, such as in winter when there is nothing to eat.

==== Bird coop ====
<gallery widths="400px" heights="400px" class="center" mode="nolines">
File:Chickens coop.png|An improvised chicken coop for chickens who just joined without "Taming".
File:Chickens released from coop to feed.png|Turkeys released from coop to feed.
</gallery>
Birds in general, migrate following weather, leaving the map when conditions are unsuitable. If you happen to have some in your colony, you will need to take care of them during winter as they are vulnerable to cold weather and may lose body parts to frostbite. Each according to their age will be more tolerant to cold. Construct a room with roof and a heater to keep them warm. They will need to be fed, either by creating an area to stock hay or free them during daytime so they can eat grass. They must be commanded to return before nightfall or risk being frozen (just returning to sleep isn't enough).

Birds will eventually produce eggs, make sure your main freezer settings doesn't allow fertilized eggs if you intend to keep them reproducing. You can create another stockpile zone within the chicken coop so that the eggs remain where they were placed by the birds themselves.

==== Pet care ====

Tamed animals that have a social bond to a person will affect the master's mood positively while living and negatively if killed (-8 for 20 days). This bond will either improve resistance against mental breaks or cause them. Because of the effect they cause on feelings, these creatures should be given special treatment, or any animal worth keeping alive.

These are a few tips to keep them safe:

* Keep them indoors by creating a new animal zone within a room.
* Keep them at the Home area after building a base wall.
* Prey animals should not be left wandering around in unrestricted area.
* Hunt their predators to prevent surprise attacks.
* Patrol your perimeter by zooming your view out to a larger scale but not to full, just enough to spot their sleeping animation of flying ZZZs while they rest at night. Sweeping your surroundings once every night shall keep you aware of threat presence.

<references/>

{{nav|animal}}
[[Category:Animals]]
[[Category:Wild]]

Animals

2020-02-05T20:31:17Z

Mayoculpa: /* Aggression */

{| align=center
| {{Characters_Nav}}
|}
----

{{Tocright}}
<onlyinclude>

{{for|a complete search|List of animals|}}

Wild animals occasionally spawn on the map according to the [[biomes|biome]] and from random events. These wild animals and tamed animals will wander and graze on vegetation, including player-grown plants, regardless of type. Growing [[Resources#Raw food|food]] outdoors can sometimes attract animals to your base perimeter. Animals are an important source of [[food]] by the meat they provide once [[Orders#Hunt|hunted]] and [[butcher table|butchered]].

Raiders will target tamed animals as often as colonists.

{{asof|A14}} animal trainers receive 90 XP per training attempt, which is increased from 60 in Alpha 13. Taming an animal also grants 90 XP per attempt, which previously did not occur. When animals nuzzle a colonist, it counts as a social interaction and is logged in the social tab of both the colonist and animal.

</onlyinclude>

== Animals Tab ==
The Animals tab is in the menu bar at the bottom of the screen. The default hotkey is {{key|F4}}.
* The Animals tab lists all the colony animals. Clicking an animal name will center the map to that animal.
* A button lists the animal's master, if it has one. Click the button to assign a new master.
* [[Zone/Area#Allowed area|Allowed areas]] are also listed here including Unrestricted, [[Home area]], and animal areas. Each animal stays in its assigned area unless its master is drafted.
* The <tt>[Manage areas...]</tt> button at the top of the tab opens a window to edit allowed areas.

{{asof|A14}} several features have been added to the Animals tab:
* Gender and life stage informational columns
* A "Slaughter" checkbox column to allow easy slaughtering of multiple tamed animals at once
* Checkbox columns for each trainable skill to allow easy training of many animals

== Appearance ==
Most animals appear to have no limbs, just as colonists do.

Some animals have different appearances between males and females.

== Behavior ==
*'''Wandering:''' Animals will wander the area when they have nothing else to do, e.g. eating or hunting. When wandering, some species of animals will tend to stay together in a herd. Others will spread out alone across the map.
*'''Filth:''' While walking on constructed floors they can leave animal filth. The rate of producing filth is proportional to body size and wildness.
*'''Forbidden food:''' Hungry tame animals will eat forbidden food and may even leave their allowed area.

=== Mating ===
Occasionally tamed males will approach a tamed female of the same species to initiate mating. The female will stand there, allowing males to mate with her. Afterwards the female can get pregnant. 
More than one male can mate with the same female at once.

Wild animals do not mate.

=== Fleeing ===
Passive animals will mostly flee when harmed. They will not flee if they are engaging in combat with an adversary. 
More aggressive animals will turn and attack instead of fleeing.

If a member of a herd is harmed or killed, the rest of the herd will flee as well, scattering around.

=== Aggression ===

Sometimes a single animal may go mad, or every animal of the same species be driven mad by a psychic wave, and attack any humans not behind closed doors.

If injured by a colonist or tamed pet, certain species of animals will become maddened into a manhunter state and will relentlessly seek out humans to attack. Sometimes nearby animals of the same species will be simultaneously enraged. Unless otherwise neutralized, a maddened animal will eventually return to a normal mood. Animals in manhunter state will attack doors if colonists try to go in and out of them.

Manhunter chances are listed in the Wildlife tab of the map screen, and also on the Info tab of each individual animal's information window.

[[File:Manhunter due to pet hunting.png|400px]]

=== Predation ===
Most carnivores are predators. When hungry, a predator will prefer an easy meal. They'll first go for meals or food types within their diet. They may go for a downed or dead animal or a human corpse. But when a hungry predator has no other food nearby, they will hunt, kill and consume almost any animal smaller than them, including your tamed animals or even your colonists. This can especially be a problem on maps with little wildlife, like on [[Biomes#Ice sheet|Ice sheets]] when a polar bear wanders in. Still, predators tend to choose more vulnerable and weaker animals, and wisely avoid boomrats and boomalopes. Their attacks usually stun their prey, leaving them unable to fight back or flee. A predator will focus all their attacks on their downed prey, so if they do down your colonists or livestock and you have a colonist nearby, then direct them to Rescue that downed pawn. It could mean the difference between life and death.

Predators include {{#ask: [[Category:Animals]] [[Is Predator::true]]}}.

=== Body heat ===

Animals will give out body heat, slightly heating up their surroundings. This is insignificant most of the time, but in enclosed barns with many animals packed, the heat can quickly become a problem.

== Breeding ==
Animals are born by live birth or by hatching from a fertilized egg.

=== Live Birth ===
Female animals that give live birth become pregnant when a male animal approaches them and mates. Only tamed animals may breed. An animal's gestation period specifies how long a female's pregnancy will last.

A pregnant animal suffering [[malnutrition]] or is injured may miscarry. Miscarriages are noted by an in-game message.

Live births produce amniotic fluid (see [[Filth]]).

Some animals will give birth to multiple young. The probability of this is determined by a curve, and is different for each animal.

Animals can breed with their own family members without penalty, even for repeated generational incest.

{| style="border-style: solid; border-width: 0px; text-align:left;"
|+ style="text-align:left;" | Pregnancy progresses in stages.
! scope="row" | Early stage (hidden)
|: Starts at 0%. This stage is not displayed but may be surmised by the vomiting it causes.
|-
! scope="row" | Middle stage
|: Starts at 33%. At this stage [[Health#Moving|Moving]] is reduced by 15%.
|-
! scope="row" | Late stage
|: Starts at 66%. At this stage [[Health#Moving|Moving]] is reduced by 30% and may include vomiting.
|-
! scope="row" | Full term
|: At 100%. At this point the female will give birth. Some species may have multiple offspring in a litter.
|}

=== Eggs ===
Egg-laying animals include {{#ask: [[Category:Animals]] [[Egg Laying Interval::+]]}}. Females become fertilized after mating with males, causing them to lay fertilized eggs. Most animals will not lay unfertilized eggs, with the exception of [[chicken]]s.

Fertilized eggs display their progress on the inspect pane and hatch when ready.

Fertilized eggs can be ruined by temperature if not kept within their safe temperature range of {{temperature|1}} to {{temperature|49}}.
: Eggs may start to overheat at/above {{temperature|50}}.
: Eggs may start to freeze at/below {{temperature|0}}.

The inspect pane will indicate 'Overheating' or 'Freezing' followed by a percentage rising up to 100%. This status is halted when safe temperate is restored, but it is not reset - if the temperature is unsafe again, it will pick up where it left off. If it reaches 100% the egg is 'ruined by temperature' and will not hatch even if returned to a suitable area. A ruined egg still has full nutritional value and can be used to make a meal (or eaten raw, with a mood debuff).

== Diet ==
While most carnivorous animals can eat raw meat, corpses, kibble, and meals, [[Warg]]s can ''only'' eat raw meat and corpses.

All strictly herbivorous animals and some omnivorous animals (notably pigs and boars) can eat live plants (except trees) and haygrass. 
Dendrovorous animals such as the [[alphabeaver]] and the [[thrumbo]] can eat trees, in addition to other plant-based foods.

Because all animals except wargs can eat meals, [[kibble]], and [[pemmican]], it is possible to feed meat to herbivores or plants to carnivores if it is prepared first.

== Health ==
Animals have the same set-up as humans when it comes to health, minus the ability to operate on them (except euthanasia)(The option to amputate an infected limb can become available once infection sets in, at least on Thrumbos—assuming other animals as well). They feel pain, and have all of the different health stats that human pawns possess. Needs to have an animal bed (or sleeping spot) to be healed.

Like humans, they have a life expectancy, and are affected by [[Ailments|chronic diseases]]. There is no way to cure them in the base game other than [[Healer mech serum]], which would be incredibly expensive.

== Hunting ==
[[File:Hunt.png|42px]]

Wild animals may be marked for hunting, done by [[Menus#Hunt|hunters]] with ranged weapons, who will proceed to shoot them at maximum range, before executing them with a neck cut when they are downed (except explosive animals). After killing their target, they will haul the carcass to a [[stockpile zone]] even if they are naturally incapable of hauling, but will not start hauling it again if they're interrupted.

Animals harmed by hunting that were not killed yet may become enraged and if its a pack type, its full horde may turn hostile against the entire colony. If they are non-aggressive animals they usually flee instead.

Hunting may take longer during bad weather since there's a shooting modifier while it's raining or snowing that makes it more likely for shots to miss.
* Fog (with or without rain): hit chance multiplier is 50%.
* Rain or snow: hit chance multiplier is 80%.

{{clear|left}}
To mark animals to be hunted use one of the following methods:
*Click Wildlife, Click the first red X to the right of the animal you want to hunt and change it to a green check mark
*Click Orders, Hunt, then click one or more individual animals.
*Click Orders, Hunt, then click and drag a box to surround and select multiple animals.
*Select one or more animals, click Hunt.

=== Hunting tips ===

* Animals can be hunted manually instead of just using the hunt order by drafting a colonist and right clicking to fire at animals. This allows the killing of multiple animals in one session, or hunting from close range. Closer range reduces the chance of missing shots or unintended friendly fire, but raises the chance of provoking animal revenge.

* In the occasion of a full horde revenge, early-stage colonies may easily become overrun, leaving all colonists downed. But down is not out. While players may instantly think of loading the latest save and re-try (aka. save-scumming), it's unnecessary and unchallenging. Eventually, one or more of your colonists may recover. With luck, this miracle may take place at nightfall, when wildlife sleep (except for the most enraged beasts among those), or they have wandered far enough, opening a chance to rescue everybody else. The manhunter status of the horde will disappear overnight.
**[[Defense tactics#Melee blocking|Melee blocking]] could be a valuable tactic to defeat the rampaging animals. In addition to making it easier to defeat the animals even when outnumbered, it also keeps your downed colonists near your base for easy rescue.

== Life Stages ==
Animals all have three different life stages. Animals have different graphics for different life stages, or may simply appear smaller. Animals start out as babies and their age is listed as minutes, hours, or months. Some animals have a specific name for this stage (e.g. chick). They then move on to juveniles (teenagers). Eventually, they reach the final life stage, adulthood. In the stages before adulthood, animals have lower stats (body size, health scale, mass, carrying capacity, move speed, hunger rate, meat amount, leather amount, market value) that normalize when they reach adulthood. Animals have different sounds (call, anger, wounded, death) for different life stages. Babies may simply make a higher pitched sound, or have a different sound altogether (such as chicks). Depending on the species, animals will need to reach the juvenile or adult stage before they can reproduce.

== Needs ==
Animals require food and sleep and will fulfill their needs on their own.

'''Food:''' Animals will eat any available food according to their diet. Herbivorous animals of the colony can be left to eat grass on their own. Note that animals require different amounts of food compared to humans, as represented by their [[Hunger Rate]].

'''Rest:''' Animals will sleep as needed. Tamed animals will sleep in [[animal sleeping spot]]s, [[animal sleeping box]]es, or [[animal bed]]s. If none of which are available, the animal will crash out on the ground inside its allowed zone. A tamed animal will not sleep as long as its master is drafted.

== Animal husbandry ==

Animals can be tamed and put to use in the colony, providing several benefits.

=== Taming ===
Wild animals can be tamed by a [[Menus#Handle|animal handler]] with sufficient Animal skill and available food. Tamed animals may be bred, trained, traded, slaughtered, or farmed.

Wild animals may be marked for taming using the Tame button.
[[File:TameButton.png|52px|left|link=]]{{clear}}

An [[Menus#Handle|animal handler]] will attempt to tame marked animals using food fitting that animal's diet. The chance to tame an animal depends on the animal's wildness (displayed on the info window) and the handler's 'Tame animal chance' stat. This stat is determined by the colonist's [[Skills#Animals|animals skill]], [[Health#Manipulation|manipulation]], and [[Health#Talking|talking]]. When a handler fails to tame an animal there is a cooldown period before another attempt can be made and there's a small chance it will turn manhunter and start attacking the handler and others. After a while the handler may drop unused food. Tamed animals will remain in or near the colony or they may be assigned to animal areas to contain them. Setting animal areas is usually necessary to restrict them from eating food not intended for them.

==== Tame chances ====
Besides the animal handler's own skill, the wildness of the animals also counts.

Tame chances undergo a post-processing curve.
*An animal with 0% wildness has a x2 taming chance.
*An animal with 50% wildness has normal taming chance.
*An animal with 100% wildness cannot be tamed at all.
*When an animal has its wounds tended by a colonist, there is a constant 0.4% chance of the animal will self-tame and bond with the colonist, regardless of wildness.

Currently, the hardest to tame animal is the [[Thrumbo]] with a post-processed taming chance of 3%.

[[List of animals|Animals]] with 0% wildness remain tame forever. An animal with a wildness above 0% needs to have maintenance training in Tameness. If it loses all Tameness it will go back to being wild.

==== Minimum skill ====

Some animals require a minimum skill before they can be handled. The game will prompt the player if no colonist has enough skill to handle the animal. In this case a colonist has only 1 point as an utter beginner and has learning ability, the easiest...

* Animals that require no points (zero) to tame are: Alpaca, Cat, Chicken, Cow, Dromedary, Husky, Labrador retriever, Pig and Yorkshire terrier.

An animal's handling skill requirement is calculated as follows:

'''Skill = 9 * (wildness - 0.3) / 0.7'''

So animals with a wildness of 30% or less won't require any handling skill whatsoever.

=== Interaction ===
Tamed animals can be trained by colonists. With Obedience trained, they will follow their master around if designated to do so.

Some animals can be milked or sheared, which will be handled if necessary. Only adult animals can be milked.

Occasionally, animals can nuzzle colonists, giving the colonist a mood buff and allowing the animal to be named. Animals can nuzzle anyone regardless of handling skill.

When injured, they will go to animal sleeping spots/ beds for rest and treatment.

=== Naming ===
Newly tamed animals get numerical designations so you can tell them apart (“Muffalo 1”, “Muffalo 2”, etc.). The game names certain animals when tamed or bought. Others are named when they nuzzle a colonist, or form a bond with them. Names can be changed by the player from the "Training" Tab.

Animals without a pet name may have a gender-specific name (i.e. hen, rooster, buck, doe), or a lifestage-specific name (piglet, warg puppy), or even a gender/lifestage-specific name (cockerel).

Names of tamed animals are not shown on the map unless the option is turned on. See Menu, Options, 'Show animal names'.

It is possible for animals which have been lost or sold to reappear later as part of a wild herd. This will only happen with animals which occur naturally on your colony's biome. They will still have the name you gave them (including automatic names like "Muffalo 2"), but will need to be tamed and trained again.

=== Training ===
Tamed animals may be trained depending on their trainable intelligence. Click the animal's training tab to specify training and view progress.

Once Obedience is trained, they can be assigned a master which they will follow. You can configure when the animals will follow their master, by toggling whether or not the animal will follow while doing field work (hunting/taming), or while drafted.

Many skills require multiple steps to fully train.

After a training attempt on a tamed animal, there is a 6 in-game hour waiting period before that same animal can be trained again.

Since Beta 19 skills now decay over time. The speed at which skills decay is dependent on wildness of the animal. For most animals their wildness is high enough such that their tameness decrease over time, such that they will eventually return to the wild if not maintained. For this reason, if you do not have enough skilled animal handlers to keep an animal's skills fresh, it is best to sell or slaughter it before it loses tameness.

{{:List of animal skills}}

=== Combat ===
Once Obedience is trained, animals will gather around their master upon drafting, and will attack nearby threats, or (unintentionally) block ranged attacks for their master.
 This is configurable and can be disabled by disabling follow during drafted.

With Release trained, animals can be released to attack threats from a distance.

Animals can be downed during combat, and can be rescued by colonists or other animals capable of Rescue.

=== Products ===
Certain tame animals produce milk, wool, or eggs. Shearing sometimes fails, indicated with a brief "product wasted" message.

==== [[Eggs]] ====
[[File:Eggs.png|32px|left|link=Eggs]]
{| {{STDT| sortable c_08 text-center}}
! Animal !! Eggs Per Clutch Average !! Egg Laying Interval !! Eggs Per Season Average
{{#ask: [[Concept:Production Animals]] [[Egg Laying Interval::+]]
| ?Eggs Per Clutch Average
| ?Egg Laying Interval
| ?Eggs Per Season Average
| format = template
| template = Animals/ProductsRow
| link = subject}}
|}

==== [[Milk]] ====
[[File:Milk.png|32px|left|link=Milk]]
{| {{STDT| sortable c_08 text-center}}
! Animal !! Milk Amount !! Milking Interval !! Daily Milk Average
{{#ask: [[Concept:Production Animals]] [[Milk Amount::+]]
| ?Milk Amount
| ?Milking Interval Days
| ?Daily Milk Average
| format = template
| template = Animals/ProductsRow
| link = subject}}
|}

==== [[Wool]] ====
[[File:Wool.png|32px|left|link=Wool]]
{| {{STDT| sortable c_08 text-center}}
! Animal !! Wool Amount !! Shearing Interval !! Daily Wool Average
{{#ask: [[Concept:Production Animals]] [[Wool Amount::+]]
| ?Wool Amount
| ?Shearing Interval Days
| ?Daily Wool Average
| format = template
| template = Animals/ProductsRow
| link = subject}}
|}

=== Slaughtering ===

Tamed animals may be slaughtered selecting the animal and clicking the Slaughter button, or by using the Slaughter tool from the Orders menu. An animal marked in this way will be slaughtered by an animal handler. The handler need not be equipped with a weapon.

If you try to slaughter a bonded animal, the game will warn you about it due to the mood impact this has on the animal's master.
[[File:SlaughterButton.png|52px|left|link=]]{{clear|left}}

=== Pack animals ===
Four animals, the [[Elephant]], [[Muffalo]], [[Dromedary]], [[Zebra]], and [[Alpaca]] can be used as pack animals and will carry items in [[caravan]]s. They have a capacity of 140 kg, 73.5 kg, 70 kg, and 35 kg respectively, and can graze meaning they don't usually require food.

When carrying items in their inventory, they will appear to have packs on, which disappear when unloaded.

=== Social ===
Each animal has a Social tab that lists that animal's bonds and relations. Clicking an entry jumps to that bond's counterpart. Bonded humans have a persistent mood bonus, unless they have the psychopath trait, while set as that animal's master. Animals do not have such thoughts or bonuses.

Occasionally, tame animals will nuzzle your colonists. More pet-like animals such as Yorkshire Terriers and Cats will nuzzle often, whereas wilder animals such as Timber Wolves and Grizzly Bears can still nuzzle colonists, but rarely do so. Since Alpha 16, animals can nuzzle patients in bed. A colonist who is nuzzled receives a +4 mood buff for 1 day.

=== Trade goods ===

Tamed animals may be sold to [[trade]]rs. Animals purchased from traders will be already tamed. Bulk goods traders offer pets and farm animals while exotic goods traders carry most of the wild species.

=== Raising animals ===

==== Growing haygrass ====
While the land can sustain a sizable population of animals grazing on it, it doesn't have an infinite supply and can still be depleted. If you need to raise a lot of animals at once, e.g. an exponentially growing group of [[chicken]]s, you will need to grow haygrass to sustain them all.

Haygrass gives a total of 0.9 nutrition (18 units of [[hay]]) when fully grown and harvested, compared to 0.15 of grass. However, you have to keep your hungry animals from getting to it otherwise they'll only get a max of 0.2 nutrition from eating the plant.

==== Making kibble ====
[[Kibble]] is a kind of animal feed made with both plant and animal sources. It can be made using haygrass and any kind of meat, including human or insect meat.

All animals except [[warg]]s can eat it, so it makes a good way to feed your animals using mixed sources of nutrition, including those that animals won't normally eat. Kibble also lasts forever under a roof so you can store it and use it to feed animals when in need, such as in winter when there is nothing to eat.

==== Bird coop ====
<gallery widths="400px" heights="400px" class="center" mode="nolines">
File:Chickens coop.png|An improvised chicken coop for chickens who just joined without "Taming".
File:Chickens released from coop to feed.png|Turkeys released from coop to feed.
</gallery>
Birds in general, migrate following weather, leaving the map when conditions are unsuitable. If you happen to have some in your colony, you will need to take care of them during winter as they are vulnerable to cold weather and may lose body parts to frostbite. Each according to their age will be more tolerant to cold. Construct a room with roof and a heater to keep them warm. They will need to be fed, either by creating an area to stock hay or free them during daytime so they can eat grass. They must be commanded to return before nightfall or risk being frozen (just returning to sleep isn't enough).

Birds will eventually produce eggs, make sure your main freezer settings doesn't allow fertilized eggs if you intend to keep them reproducing. You can create another stockpile zone within the chicken coop so that the eggs remain where they were placed by the birds themselves.

==== Pet care ====

Tamed animals that have a social bond to a person will affect the master's mood positively while living and negatively if killed (-8 for 20 days). This bond will either improve resistance against mental breaks or cause them. Because of the effect they cause on feelings, these creatures should be given special treatment, or any animal worth keeping alive.

These are a few tips to keep them safe:

* Keep them indoors by creating a new animal zone within a room.
* Keep them at the Home area after building a base wall.
* Prey animals should not be left wandering around in unrestricted area.
* Hunt their predators to prevent surprise attacks.
* Patrol your perimeter by zooming your view out to a larger scale but not to full, just enough to spot their sleeping animation of flying ZZZs while they rest at night. Sweeping your surroundings once every night shall keep you aware of threat presence.

<references/>

{{nav|animal}}
[[Category:Animals]]
[[Category:Wild]]

Dumping stockpile zone

2020-02-05T12:31:58Z

Mayoculpa: /* Warg bait */

__NOTOC__
<onlyinclude>
{{infobox main|area|
|name = Dumping stockpile zone
|image = Dumping stockpile zone Icon.png|Dumping stockpile zone
|description = Used for dumping
|type = Zones{{!}}Zones
|placeable = Yes
|size = 1|1 +
}}

A dumping stockpile zone is a kind of [[stockpile zone]]. Colonists assigned to hauling and animals trained to haul will bring items to stockpiles configured to accept them.

It works in exactly the same way as a normal stockpile. The only difference is that there are different default settings. By default, dumping stockpiles allow corpses and chunks and forbid everything else. If you prefer, you can create a regular stockpile zone and manually change the settings yourself. Using this option merely saves a few clicks when you know the stockpile is going to be used for corpses, unwanted gear or chunks.

Dumping stockpiles can be created in the Zone section of the Architect menu.

==Creating Dumping stockpiles==
To create a dumping stockpile, click the Dumping Stockpile Zone button in the [[Zone/Area]] tab of the [[Architect]] menu. Next, simply click and drag to draw the area. If the chosen area has parts that cannot be made into a dumping stockpile, like a solid object or another stockpile that had already been placed, it will not expand into those areas.

Doing the same operation on an already existing stockpile/dumping stockpile will expand it, but maintain whether or not it is a dumping stockpile vs a regular stockpile. When creating a dumping stockpile, any movable items currently occupying the designated tiles will automatically be considered part of the dumping stockpile, even if the dumping stockpile settings disallow those particular items. Haulers will remove these items and take them to stockpiles that do allow them.

==Configuring==
Select a dumping stockpile and click the Storage tab to configure it.
*Priority - Items are brought to dumping stockpiles with higher priority that have available space. Haulers will even move items already in a stockpile that can be moved to a higher priority one.
*Hit points and quality sliders - Set sliders to restrict items based on their hit points and/or quality.
*Item list - Choose what items are allowed.
*Checkboxes at the top for Rotten vs Fresh, and within the Apparel menu for Clean vs Tainted.

It's generally all right to set a dumping stockpile zone's priority to Low. Since none of your other stockpiles allow these items, they will be brought to the dumping stockpile anyway.

How you configure a particular dumping stockpile depends on how you intend to use it.

==Using dumping stockpiles==
Once a dumping stockpile has been allocated, haulers will automatically move items to the stockpile when they are available as long as the dumping stockpile allows that item and has available space.

=== Garbage dump ===
These zones are often used to collect junk that is neither useful nor beautiful, somewhere outside the base where colonists don't have to look at it. Rotting corpses, low quality weapons and tainted clothing will eventually deteriorate and vanish if exposed to the elements. Items which are outdoors, unroofed and in marsh or water deteriorate more quickly.

If your dumping stockpile zone is filled to capacity and you are unable or unwilling to expand it, you may not want to wait until the items deteriorate on their own. These are some ways to destroy your garbage faster:
* firing an incendiary weapon at it
* throwing [[Molotov cocktails]] or [[frag grenades]] at it
* placing chemfuel in the center of the pile and shooting at it
* leaving a [[mortar shell]] or other explosive in the center of the pile until it degrades and explodes on its own

For an early game dumping stockpile, you may want to make sure it is set to '''not''' allow fresh corpses and to '''not''' allow clean apparel. This will ensure that only items you can neither use nor sell will be placed here. Later on, you can change the settings to include other kinds of items you do not need.

=== Perimeter defense & storage ===

A dumping stockpile that contains only chunks can provide some cheap cover. This is a handy tactic in the early game, as the chunks only need to be hauled into place rather than constructed like sandbags or walls. It also saves time for your stonecutters and smelters. If they can grab chunks out of the stockpile rather than having to travel across the map to find stone or steel slag, they will work much more efficiently.

=== Warg bait ===

A dumping stockpile zone set to accept both fresh and rotten stranger corpses can be a convenient place to deposit defeated human raiders.

If your biome has winter, these corpses can remain fresh for weeks at a time. This is especially beneficial for indirectly keeping predators fed. When wild predators have free corpses to snack on, they are much less likely to hunt your colonists and tamed animals for food. Once your colony is strong enough to be able to hunt these predators, the dumping stockpile can instead lure them into a location which is convenient for your hunters.

If you use this method, it's a good idea to set most of your colonists to an [[allowed area]] which does '''not''' include the "warg bait" stockpile. Hauling animals and pawns with Psychopath, Bloodlust or Cannibal can be allowed there, since the sight of fresh corpses does not bother them. But multiple stacked "Observed corpse" '''and''' "Observed rotting corpse" mood penalties can be brutal for a colonist who does not have any traits to ameliorate them.

{{nav|zone}}
[[Category:Zones]]

RimWorld Wiki:To-do

2020-02-05T12:20:21Z

Mayoculpa: /* General To-do List */

There are many, many things to be done on this wiki to make it better. Mark incomplete pages or pages needing work with {{t|Stub}} to make our job a bit easier.

If you want to suggest something that needs to be done, '''sign your post with <code><nowiki>~~~~</nowiki></code>''' - [[User:Zesty|Zesty]] ([[User talk:Zesty|talk]])

==Outdated pages and pages that need updated/more images==
===Outdated===
{{#cargo_query:
tables=_pageData
|fields=_pageName
|where=_categories HOLDS 'Page_Rewrite'
|group by=_pageName
|format=ul
|columns=3
}}

===Image(s) wanted===
{{#cargo_query:
tables=_pageData
|fields= _pageName
|where=_categories HOLDS 'Needs_Pictures'
|group by=_pageName
|format=ul
|columns=3
}}

==General To-do List==
Needs to be done list: (Feel free to do these if you know how!) (''italic'' = minor, '''bold''' = major)

*'''Guides''': Rich Explorer Guide and Colony Building Guide can use some extra content. '''[[User:PigeonGuru|PigeonGuru]]''', Strategist ( [[User_talk:PigeonGuru|talk]] | [[Special:Contributions/PigeonGuru|contribs]] | [[Guides|assist]] ) 07:03, 8 August 2019 (UTC)
*'''Pages''': Assign tab currently only has a brief overview on the menu page. Outfits, Food policies and Drug policies each need individual pages. [[User:Mayoculpa|Mayoculpa]] ([[User talk:Mayoculpa|talk]]) 12:19, 5 February 2020 (UTC)
*'''Defs''': Def elements might be something useful to add in for technical reference/modder wannabes. This stuff is being constantly revised and constructed upon, so it's your choice whether to make it its own page or to integrate it as part of another page (e.g. [[Colonist]]). I've only covered a small amount of defs (see [[:Category:Defs]] for a list), and that was ''a year ago''. [[User:Longbyte1|Longbyte1]] ([[User talk:Longbyte1|talk]]) 05:05, 16 February 2015 (UTC)
* Need a better way to display data on tables without having to update the tables themselves. What's the best way to pull stats and stuff from pages to a table on another page? [[User:Zesty|Zesty]] ([[User talk:Zesty|talk]])
** I started a short how-to on properties and queries on my [[User:Khaim|user page]]. Does that help? --[[User:Khaim|Khaim]] ([[User talk:Khaim|talk]]) 21:42, 15 September 2016 (UTC)
** This is perhaps the main attraction of Cargo. If/when all that stuff is done, we can use data across the wiki from various pages using queries, without the pages being high-maintenance. The list queries above is a small example. [[User:Pangaea|Pangaea]] ([[User talk:Pangaea|talk]]) 15:15, 1 August 2019 (UTC)



== Updates and maintenance needed on the Wiki ==

* Freshen up the frontpage, and if nothing else, change from a table to div setup --> <code>In progress</code> by Pangaea
* Categorise all images so it's easier to find them --> <code>In progress</code> by Pangaea
** Ideally with AutoWikiBrowser, because it is ''much'' faster
* If relevant: update outdated images, and add missing images
** <s>Possibly re-enable the MsUpload extension to make it easier, or do it with AWB</s> --> <code>DONE</code> by Zesty
* <s>Add an [[RimWorld Wiki:Admin noticeboard|Admin noticeboard]]</s> --> <code>DONE</code> by Pangaea
* Add Community portal to the Sidebar (and maybe re-order it slightly? See Wikipedia's system)
* Update some of the default footer pages, as they seem outdated currently --> <code>Partially done</code> by Pangaea
* Given a fitting license, borrow content from other wikis and improve and expand our Help sections
** See [https://help.gamepedia.com/Extension:Cargo] for a suggestion that might work here as well
* Add articles for each technology and skill, with fitting templates
* <s>Purge outdated SMW entities: (see [[Special:Statistics|Statistics]])</s> --> <code>DONE</code> by Hypolite
* Edit or make new screenshots without (so many) UI elements, as seen for instance in the [[Events]] page
* An RSS feed for [[news]] would be nice, but looks like we'd need this [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:RSS extension] for it. Could perhaps put it on the frontpage then. [[User:Pangaea|Pangaea]] ([[User talk:Pangaea|talk]]) 13:21, 1 August 2019 (UTC)

== Wiki consistency and overhaul ==

* <s>Time to elaborate (or duplicate) Policies and Formatting guidelines. Basics like: Consensus, Edit Warring so that newcomers can learn their way around. Tutorials. Finish the page [[Help:Templates#Creating_a_template]]. [[User:Yoshida Keiji|Yoshida Keiji]] ([[User talk:Yoshida Keiji|talk]]) 09:17, 23 September 2017 (UTC)</s>
** Zesty has already said this is not Wikipedia proper; these policies could help with keeping order but if not enforced correctly they will seem excessively draconic and scare away potential contributors-- and this has already happened, twice. '''[[User:PigeonGuru|PigeonGuru]]''', Strategist ( [[User_talk:PigeonGuru|talk]] | [[Special:Contributions/PigeonGuru|contribs]] | [[Guides|assist]] ) 12:34, 25 July 2019 (UTC)

As an aside, if I may be so bold as to suggest a few extensions I didn't see here, which could prove useful:
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:LinkSuggest LinkSuggest]: Useful for new users to easier create links without knowing the ins and outs of the page names.
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:Cargo Cargo]: I see you already use SMW. Cargo is basically a more light-weight alternative to SMW, and set up more like a traditional SQL database, so it's easier to use queries than with the pretty complex SMW syntax, and its plethora of property and query pages. I don't really suggest to shift from SMW to Cargo as it's a pretty monumental task given you appear to be actively using SMW here, however it may be worth to read up on it. I happened to be admin/guardian on a Gamepedia wiki when they, after huge stability issues related to SMW sitewide, decided to de facto ban it and urge wikis to transition over to Cargo. So I have, or at least had, a good deal of knowledge about it, and created a bunch of templates when [https://pillarsofeternity.gamepedia.com Pillars of Eternity] transitioned from SMW to Cargo. It's not perfect of course, but I found it really useful, so wanted to leave a tip here about it, just in case admins/mods want to look into it.
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:RandomSelection RandomSelection]: This can be neat on the main page for various gameplay tips and such, which then get randomly selected. Not sure if there would be a good use for it with this game, but I have seen it used to good effect on other wikis, such as [https://witcher.gamepedia.com/Witcher_Wiki Witcher 3].

== Suggestions ==

* ''Install [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:MobileFrontend the MobileFrontend-extension]'' -- [[User:Crasheripot|Crasheripot]]

== Updates needed for 1.0+ ==

<s>The ''updates needed'' list appears to be outdated. Is there a list or overview somewhere of what needs to be updated since the 1.0 release of the game?

The main thing I wanted to touch upon, however, is the question whether there is some type of centralised overview about what needs to be updated wiki-wide after the release of 1.0 :) [[User:Pangaea|Pangaea]] ([[User talk:Pangaea|talk]]) 17:33, 24 June 2019 (UTC)</s>

:The only major difference between Beta 19 and 1.0 is the addition of a food restriction system, all other changes are mostly just balancing. These will have to be discovered manually as I don't think they are mentioned anywhere in the official changelogs. '''[[User:PigeonGuru|PigeonGuru]]''', Strategist ( [[User_talk:PigeonGuru|talk]] | [[Special:Contributions/PigeonGuru|contribs]] | [[Guides|assist]] ) 04:28, 25 July 2019 (UTC)

== Updates needed for Beta 19/ 1.0 ==

Like before, a list of changes that need to be added. '''[[User:PigeonGuru|PigeonGuru]]''', Strategist ( [[User_talk:PigeonGuru|talk]] | [[Special:Contributions/PigeonGuru|contribs]] | [[Guides|assist]] ) 14:36, 28 August 2018 (UTC)

=== New features ===
*Improved raids:
**Balanced raid points to ensure smooth progression
*Improved caravaning:
**Added Caravan tab with caravan loading progress
**Redesigned "Form caravan" window: stats like carried mass, caravan speed, days worth of food, and visibility are now explained better
**Added "Remove from caravan" command: remove people or animals from the caravan even if it hasn't left the map yet
**Added "Load into caravan" right-click option: designate extra items to be picked up by the caravan before leaving
*New designators: Mass-forbid and unforbid
*New main tab: Wildlife. Allows easy counting, finding, and designating of wild animals
*New type of attack: Kick sand/water in eyes
*You can now smooth natural rough rock walls into high-quality walls
*New edge shader for blueprints looks much nicer and more visible than before.
*Workbench bills can now be assigned to specific colonists
*Added "Show what will buy" window which shows all items a trader will buy
*Trees’ color now depends on the current season
*Added toggleable auto-rebuild functionality: automatically place blueprints whenever a building is destroyed
*Checkboxes are now "paintable": you can mass-select all checkboxes by clicking and dragging the mouse over them
*Workbench bills can now be copied and pasted
*Colonists now opportunistically haul things while working if their current target is roughly in the same direction
*It's now possible to mass-cancel all designations with a designator's right-click menu
*It's now possible to forbid/unforbid all items and rearm all traps with a designator's right-click menu
*You can now drag and reorder colonists in the colonist bar
*Social interaction log now has flavorful randomized text instead of the same repeated interaction text every time.
*Random variant art added for some plants
*Mods page now has a search bar so you can easily find one mod in your list of hundreds

=== Adjustments ===

*Heavily rearranged the research tree for easier reading
*Joy need is renamed to 'recreation'
*Battles in the Combat tab are now named
*Totally reworked how plants grow. Wild plants after several in-game years should now look more or less as good as at the beginning
*Items of the same type in the Items tab are now grouped together
*Items in the Items tab can now be sorted by mass, market value, etc.
*When placing or selecting work stations where pawns can sit while working, the spot where the pawn goes is indicated by a chair outline so the player realizes that a chair can be built there
*Changed deep moving water to chest-deep moving water: walkable but slower than shallow water
*Reworked a ton of text generation to create more sensible, interesting results
*Misc interface tweaks: colonists forming a caravan now have a special icon in the colonist bar, hovering over stats in the stat window now shows their details, added copy to clipboard button in the Combat tab
*Doctors can draw medicine from the same stack at the same time
*Downed colonists in hostile maps are now automatically kidnapped by the enemy (if there are no more healthy colonists nearby)
*Insects will no longer attack the colony when harmed by raiders
*Hives will no longer spawn close to enemy bases
*Item deterioration rate now takes into account several factors, including being outdoors, being unroofed, and being in water
*No more random deaths from meteorites falling on colonists
*Insects will now go into hypothermic slowdown instead of getting hypothermia
*Caravan members now slowly gain social recreation when the caravan is not moving
*Ambush maps now retain information about the caravan's exact sub-tile position, which means that caravans will now continue their journey from the same position after being ambushed
*Death letter now contains information about last, relevant events
*When a health condition in the Health tab is clicked we now seek to appropriate combat log entry
*It's no longer possible to build roof over trees
*Growing trees now requires research and you can now only grow trees which grow naturally in the local biome
*Alphabeavers incident now only occurs in biomes with sparse plants
*Plant cut/harvest time now depends on the plant's growth
*Mechanoids now always die on downed
*Nutrient paste dispensers are now orange when they can be used by prisoners
*Doing passionate work now affects mood instead of recreation
*Firefoam poppers will now pop whenever there's a fire in a 3-cell radius
*Exotic goods outlander traders will no longer trade furniture
*Some traders will now buy only some types of animals, not all
*Adjusted doctors and patients work priorities a bit so they do urgent work first
*Important world objects are now easier to see when the camera is zoomed out
*The player now must choose a route for the caravan before sending it
*Caravans will no longer rest just before reaching their destination
*Heavily reworked how caravan movement speed works. Every tile now has an easy-to-understand, well-explained "movement difficulty" stat
*Bedrolls now have quality ratings
*Removed Electric armor
*Most crafting benches are now uninstallable and reinstallable
*Inspired colonists now get a special icon in the colonist bar
*Colonists will now take pemmican to inventory (like meals)
*Frag grenades are no longer a valid hunting weapon
*Ores mined by non-colonists (e.g. insects) now spawn forbidden
*Alerts now also look at caravan members where appropriate
*The permadeath savefile is now also renamed when the colony is given a name
*"autostart.rws" is now automatically loaded on start in dev mode, for faster testing
*Combined ribs into rib cage
*Animals' melee damage now scales with life stage
*Plants in the plant selection menu are now sorted by category and name
*Reworked the "advanced map options" dialog layout, extreme game-breaking map sizes are now disabled by default and must be enabled in the options
*Minerals and ancient dangers will no longer appear on encounter maps
*Graves now show the person's date of death
*Tribal factions can now do sapper raids
*Added medical care column to the Assign tab
*Removed Shoddy and Superior item qualities
*Adjusted quality impact on various stats to be less extreme and more steady in most cases
*Rebalanced and refactored quality generation. Masterwork/legendary level items never generate on enemies, traders, bases. Masterwork/legendary items are extra hard to craft - generally you can now only get them by inspiration or from quests
*Removed the distinction between allowed areas and animal areas
*Wearing new apparel now takes time. Colonists now take off the colliding apparel first (which takes time) before wearing the new one
*Inspiration expiration time is now shown on the inspect pane
*Added minimum crafting skill to various weapon and apparel crafting recipes
*Colonists can now wear armor vests with tribalwear
*Minor starvation (below 25% severity) no longer causes miscarriages
*Pets and bonded animals no longer disturb sleep
*When reforming a caravan, we now list colonists' inventory separately so the player can choose what to take and what to leave
*Enemies no longer use single use rocket launchers during caravan ambushes
*Some letters now show information about the related faction relations in the bottom right corner
*Various floors now require research. Split hospital beds into "Sterile materials" and "Hospital beds" research projects
*All traders are now unwilling to buy tainted apparel
*Projectile impacts now wake up nearby people and animals
*Explosive weapons now explode when set on fire
*Wood-powered fires and coolers no longer vanish when fuel is exhausted, they wait to be refueled
*Fixed issues with animals sometimes randomly opening doors in combat and allowing enemies in
*Improved following behavior so animals following their master will now try to stay close to him
*Traders will no longer accept typical short-life meals (paste, simple, fine, lavish)

=== Balance ===

*Reduced threat points for incidents by about 15%. Also reshaped the threat points curve to be easier in the early game, and tougher in the mid-late game.
*World quest destinations appear 10% closer to the player bases.
*Table search radius 25 -> 32
*The “expectations” thoughts progress more rapidly.
*Doubled initial blight size, increase spread rate by 30%.
*Go frenzy inspiration duration 1 day -> 2 days
*For all cases where a world quest has a time limit, increase the time limit by 50%
*Poison ship part plant-killing circle stops expanding at radius 50.
*Wounds are 50% less likely to become permanent scars.
*Burying corpses takes 2x longer. Digging graves takes 20% longer.
*Increased delay before auto-undraft by 20%.
*Shallow water movement cost 12 -> 22
*Equalized mood penalties for being too hot and too cold.
*Refactored how apparel armor is calculated to be simpler, and rebalanced all apparel and stuff armor stats. Many thing protect from sharp attacks, few protect from blunt attacks, so blunt damage is now clearly specialized in attacking armored enemies.
*Refactored how apparel insulation is calculated to be simpler, and rebalanced all apparel and stuff insulation stats.
*Removed the impact of item hit points on various stats: Apparel armor rating, apparel insulation, shield belt max energy, melee weapon damage, ranged weapon accuracy.
*Heavily reworked the selection weights of raider factions, raider strategies (sappers, siege, etc) and arrival modes (walk-in, drop pods) to make the more difficult ones appear more consistently against stronger colonies.
*Removed shoddy and superior quality levels. Rebalanced other qualities to have a smoother progression up to Excellent; masterwork and rare are really special quality levels with big stat boosts which can usually only be acquired by special means like quests and inspirations.
*Overhauled mental break probabilities. Aside from some exceptional cases, all mental breaks are more or less equally probable.
*World quests now appear about 2.5x more often and start from 6 days instead of 15 days.
*Rebalanced plant work speed stat so it is 100% at 8 skill.
*Fixed a bug that caused there to be too many wild animals.
*Small adjustments to some biome disease frequencies and animal densities
*Rebalanced flammability across the whole game.
*Adjusted balance of learning rates for various skills. Easier: Melee, shooting, social. Harder: Intellectual, growing, mining.
*Extensive rebalance of the probabilities of various pawn kinds spawning with various weapons, tech hediffs, and apparel.
*Allies will come to help more often during fights, and come with enough force to make a difference - but only if they’re actually allied in the new diplomacy system.
*Increased base infection chances.
Quest rewards generation totally reworked to more consistently generate valuable, unique, -and interesting rewards.
*Trade requests will give more time and much richer rewards, especially for poor colonies.
*Rebalanced beauty of items, buildings, floors, filth, and plants game-wide.
*Rebalanced the intensity and duration of many thoughts.
*Deep drills cost more and mine slower.
*Items:
**Drastically reduced apparel crafting work times, especially for basic items.
**Added minimum crafting skill to various weapon and apparel crafting recipes.
**Reworked power armor/charge rifle crafting cost. They take a lot less components, and some advanced components, and less time.
**Shield belt cost (3x component, 60x plasteel, 5x uranium ) -> (2x component, 50x steel, 10x plasteel). Production time to 50% of current.
**Small sculpture mass 5 -> 3. Large sculpture mass 10 -> 7. Grand sculpture mass 50 -> 25.
*Plants:
**All non-tree sowable crops yield 20% less when harvested and take 10% longer to sow.
**Newly-seeded trees and other such plants are now faster to cut down than mature ones. -----The cut/harvest time lerps from 30% of normal just after sowing, up to 100% when the plant is mature.
**Sowing any kind of tree now requires 6 growing skill.
**Sowing trees takes 8x longer.
**Trees can only be sown with a research called “Tree Sowing” that costs 500. Tribals start with this research. It has no prerequisites.
**You can only sow trees which grow naturally in the local biome. This includes saguaro cactus.
**Reduced all tree-type plant’s max hit points by to 66% of old values.
**Bomb damage now does 2x damage vs plants.
**Rose and Daylily sow work 440 -> 600, to solve the exploit where people fill a ugly rooms with flowers.
**Healroot grow days 6.5 -> 12, sow and harvest work increased significantly.
**Reduced daylily and rose lifespans.
**Rice, strawberries, healroot, corn, cotton min fertility 50% -> 100%.
**Sand fertility 6% -> 10%.
<s>*Research:
**Colonies start game with passive cooler research.
**Colonies no longer start game with batteries and solar panels and nutrient paste research.
**Nutrient paste research cost 600 -> 300.
**Recurve bow research cost 200 -> 400.
**Carpet making research cost 1200 -> 600.
**Autodoor research cost 400 -> 600.
**Shield belt research prerequisite Multi-analyzer -> Microelectronics basics
**Shield belt research cost 3000 -> 1400
**Psychoid pekoe research cost 400 -> 800
**Brewing research cost 700 -> 400
**Refining research cost 1200 -> 700
**Ground-penetrating scanner research cost 7000 -> 4500. </s> All research should be up-to-date. '''[[User:PigeonGuru|PigeonGuru]]''', Strategist ( [[User_talk:PigeonGuru|talk]] | [[Special:Contributions/PigeonGuru|contribs]] | [[Guides|assist]] ) 07:02, 8 August 2019 (UTC)
*Buildings:
**Reduced all costs to build the ship components by 30%
**Slowed constructing buildings with all stone types by 20%
**Adjusted minimum construction skill on a variety of buildings (generally adding one where there was none)
**Bedrolls rest effectiveness 0.93 -> 0.95
**Bedrolls comfort 0.6 -> 0.68
**Wind turbine width 5 cells -> 7 cells
*Animals:
**Adjusted chances of various animals going manhunter on failed taming attempts and on being harmed.
**Adjusted many animal market values and movement speeds.
**Human leather amount 25 -> 50
**Animals leather amount increased 50% across the board
**Animal train chance reduced 25%.
**Animal train chance wildness factor range: 0.05~2.00 -> 0.50~1.50.
**Obedience training steps 1 -> 3.
**Warg damage increased by 15%.
**Warg wildness 80% -> 35%
**All insects main attack cooldowns 2.5 -> 2.9
**Alphabeaver body size 0.6 -> 0.45
**Wild boar trainable intelligence Advanced -> Intermediate (pig still has Advanced)
**Wild boar tusk damage 9 -> 8
**Wild boar speed 5 -> 4.2 (pig is still 3.6)
**Wild boar min comfy temperature -20 -> -15
**Pig bite damage 7 -> 6
**Pig market value 280 -> 200
**Boomalope chemfuel production reduced by 40%
**Boomalope hunger rate 1.0 -> 1.3
**Alpaca move speed 3.8 -> 3.2
**Alpaca leg damage 7 -> 6
**Dromedary leg damage 11 -> 8
**Wolf wildness 75% -> 85%.
**Wolf trainable intelligence Advanced -> Intermediate
**Wolf bite damage 11 -> 12
**Wolf scratch usage commonality 100% -> 50% per side
**Wolf nuzzle interval 120 -> 240 hours
**Husky, lab body sizes reduced slightly
**Lab hunger rate 0.5 -> 0.4
**Thrumbo hunger rate 4.5->3.5
**Nuzzle target search distance 15 -> 40
**Nuzzled memory duration 0.5 days->1 day, stacked effect multipler 0.95->0.5, stack limit 10->3
**Yorkshire terrier nuzzle interval 15 -> 24 hours
**Monkey, chinchilla nuzzle interval 72 -> 48 hours
**Hare, snowhare nuzzle interval 120 -> 72
**Muffalo, alpaca, warg no longer nuzzle
**Tortoise armor 50% -> 30%.
*Drugs:
**Psychoid pekoe psychoid tolerance gain 0.02 -> 0.03
**Psychoid pekoe market value 14 -> 10
**Psychoid pekoe restFallFactor 0.9 -> 0.8
**Hop plant min grow skill 7 -> 3
**Beer fermenting time 10 days -> 6 days
**Alcohol loses hidden ‘buzzed’ stage;‘warm’ begins from 0 severity
**Alcohol severity per day -1.0 -> 0.75, so it lasts longer
**Alcohol mood gains all increase +2
**Smokeleaf mood gain 15 -> 13
*Ranged weapons:
**Pawns hit by ranged attacks now stagger the same way as pawns hit by melee attacks. This effect only happens if the weapon's stopping power stat is equal or greater than the target's body size.
**Missed shots now have a 50% extra chance of hitting nothing; this will make missed shots less likely to hit random things (but doesn’t change the chance of missing).
*Melee:
**Debuffed fists very slightly (~5%) in cooldown
**Debuffed ranged weapon melee attacks to be in line with fists in terms of DPS
**Buffed beer bottles, and wood log slightly (~10%) above fists in terms of DPS
**Serious melee weapons (knife on upward) across the board 5%-10% DPS buff

== Updates needed for Beta 18 ==

Like before: a list of all changes from Beta 18 that need to be added. '''[[User:PigeonGuru|PigeonGuru]]''', Strategist ( [[User_talk:PigeonGuru|talk]] | [[Special:Contributions/PigeonGuru|contribs]] | [[Guides|assist]] ) 10:27, 18 November 2017 (UTC)

=== World generation ===

*Caves now form sometimes in mountainous maps. Inside there are special cave plants. There can also be dormant insect hives.

===Content===

*Various different kinds of plant

===Misc additions===
*Storyful combat: A major rework of melee combat, and a new way to report all combat interactions. Storyful combat generates a combat log that reports each blow, miss, swipe, block and fall in the combat. During or after a fight, you can review the combat log to see what happened, to generate a richer story.

*New world site components (used in various situations):
**Animal ambush

==Updates needed for previous alphas==

A list of all changes from Alpha 17 and prior, that need to be added to their respective pages. Don't forget to <nowiki><s></nowiki> <s>strikethrough</s> <nowiki></s></nowiki> any items you complete and sign them with '''[https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Signatures <nowiki>~~~~</nowiki>]'''. '''[[User:PigeonGuru|PigeonGuru]]''', Strategist ( [[User_talk:PigeonGuru|talk]] | [[Special:Contributions/PigeonGuru|contribs]] | [[Guides|assist]] ) 14:42, 28 August 2018 (UTC)

=== Modding ===
Since the contents of this section are a bit harder to document and not as relevant to the majority of people visiting the wiki, i will put a collapse here for the time being.
{{Collapse|
*Modders can now add “def modifiers” which, instead of replacing a whole def, change specific fields of that def. This allows multiple mods to change the same def without wiping each others’ changes (unless they change the same field, of course).
*Information on how to use def modifiers is in this forum thread: [[https://ludeon.com/forums/index.php?topic=32735.0 https://ludeon.com/forums/index.php?topic=32735.0]]
*Various enums are now defs so modders can add new ones (TrainableIntelligence , DamageArmorCategory, ImpactSoundType, ReservationLayer, BillRepeatMode, PrisonerInteractionMode, FleshType).
*GUI tables (like most of the main tabs along the bottom of the screen) are now defined by data, making it easier to add, rearrange, sort, and change columns on the UI.
*Increasing skill relevance
*Mining skill reworked: Steeper speed penalty for low skill. Mining yield is now slightly dependent on mining skill.
*Work tab boxes are easier to identify skill level for visually.
}}

=== Miscellaneous Changes ===

* [16] UI can now be scaled to arbitrary scaling factors, for players who play in really high resolution.
* [11b] Mods config page shows load order of mods.

==== Characters ====
* [11a] Guests are smarter and no longer walk out of the colony bleeding.

[[Category:Wiki maintenance]]

RimWorld Wiki:To-do

2020-02-05T12:19:41Z

Mayoculpa: added new article suggestion to the to-do list

There are many, many things to be done on this wiki to make it better. Mark incomplete pages or pages needing work with {{t|Stub}} to make our job a bit easier.

If you want to suggest something that needs to be done, '''sign your post with <code><nowiki>~~~~</nowiki></code>''' - [[User:Zesty|Zesty]] ([[User talk:Zesty|talk]])

==Outdated pages and pages that need updated/more images==
===Outdated===
{{#cargo_query:
tables=_pageData
|fields=_pageName
|where=_categories HOLDS 'Page_Rewrite'
|group by=_pageName
|format=ul
|columns=3
}}

===Image(s) wanted===
{{#cargo_query:
tables=_pageData
|fields= _pageName
|where=_categories HOLDS 'Needs_Pictures'
|group by=_pageName
|format=ul
|columns=3
}}

==General To-do List==
Needs to be done list: (Feel free to do these if you know how!) (''italic'' = minor, '''bold''' = major)

*'''Guides''': Rich Explorer Guide and Colony Building Guide can use some extra content. '''[[User:PigeonGuru|PigeonGuru]]''', Strategist ( [[User_talk:PigeonGuru|talk]] | [[Special:Contributions/PigeonGuru|contribs]] | [[Guides|assist]] ) 07:03, 8 August 2019 (UTC)
*'''Pages''': Assign tab currently only has a brief overview on the menu page. Outfits, Food policies and Drug policies each need individual pages. [[User:Mayoculpa|Mayoculpa]][[User:Mayoculpa|Mayoculpa]] ([[User talk:Mayoculpa|talk]]) 12:19, 5 February 2020 (UTC)
*'''Defs''': Def elements might be something useful to add in for technical reference/modder wannabes. This stuff is being constantly revised and constructed upon, so it's your choice whether to make it its own page or to integrate it as part of another page (e.g. [[Colonist]]). I've only covered a small amount of defs (see [[:Category:Defs]] for a list), and that was ''a year ago''. [[User:Longbyte1|Longbyte1]] ([[User talk:Longbyte1|talk]]) 05:05, 16 February 2015 (UTC)
* Need a better way to display data on tables without having to update the tables themselves. What's the best way to pull stats and stuff from pages to a table on another page? [[User:Zesty|Zesty]] ([[User talk:Zesty|talk]])
** I started a short how-to on properties and queries on my [[User:Khaim|user page]]. Does that help? --[[User:Khaim|Khaim]] ([[User talk:Khaim|talk]]) 21:42, 15 September 2016 (UTC)
** This is perhaps the main attraction of Cargo. If/when all that stuff is done, we can use data across the wiki from various pages using queries, without the pages being high-maintenance. The list queries above is a small example. [[User:Pangaea|Pangaea]] ([[User talk:Pangaea|talk]]) 15:15, 1 August 2019 (UTC)



== Updates and maintenance needed on the Wiki ==

* Freshen up the frontpage, and if nothing else, change from a table to div setup --> <code>In progress</code> by Pangaea
* Categorise all images so it's easier to find them --> <code>In progress</code> by Pangaea
** Ideally with AutoWikiBrowser, because it is ''much'' faster
* If relevant: update outdated images, and add missing images
** <s>Possibly re-enable the MsUpload extension to make it easier, or do it with AWB</s> --> <code>DONE</code> by Zesty
* <s>Add an [[RimWorld Wiki:Admin noticeboard|Admin noticeboard]]</s> --> <code>DONE</code> by Pangaea
* Add Community portal to the Sidebar (and maybe re-order it slightly? See Wikipedia's system)
* Update some of the default footer pages, as they seem outdated currently --> <code>Partially done</code> by Pangaea
* Given a fitting license, borrow content from other wikis and improve and expand our Help sections
** See [https://help.gamepedia.com/Extension:Cargo] for a suggestion that might work here as well
* Add articles for each technology and skill, with fitting templates
* <s>Purge outdated SMW entities: (see [[Special:Statistics|Statistics]])</s> --> <code>DONE</code> by Hypolite
* Edit or make new screenshots without (so many) UI elements, as seen for instance in the [[Events]] page
* An RSS feed for [[news]] would be nice, but looks like we'd need this [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:RSS extension] for it. Could perhaps put it on the frontpage then. [[User:Pangaea|Pangaea]] ([[User talk:Pangaea|talk]]) 13:21, 1 August 2019 (UTC)

== Wiki consistency and overhaul ==

* <s>Time to elaborate (or duplicate) Policies and Formatting guidelines. Basics like: Consensus, Edit Warring so that newcomers can learn their way around. Tutorials. Finish the page [[Help:Templates#Creating_a_template]]. [[User:Yoshida Keiji|Yoshida Keiji]] ([[User talk:Yoshida Keiji|talk]]) 09:17, 23 September 2017 (UTC)</s>
** Zesty has already said this is not Wikipedia proper; these policies could help with keeping order but if not enforced correctly they will seem excessively draconic and scare away potential contributors-- and this has already happened, twice. '''[[User:PigeonGuru|PigeonGuru]]''', Strategist ( [[User_talk:PigeonGuru|talk]] | [[Special:Contributions/PigeonGuru|contribs]] | [[Guides|assist]] ) 12:34, 25 July 2019 (UTC)

As an aside, if I may be so bold as to suggest a few extensions I didn't see here, which could prove useful:
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:LinkSuggest LinkSuggest]: Useful for new users to easier create links without knowing the ins and outs of the page names.
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:Cargo Cargo]: I see you already use SMW. Cargo is basically a more light-weight alternative to SMW, and set up more like a traditional SQL database, so it's easier to use queries than with the pretty complex SMW syntax, and its plethora of property and query pages. I don't really suggest to shift from SMW to Cargo as it's a pretty monumental task given you appear to be actively using SMW here, however it may be worth to read up on it. I happened to be admin/guardian on a Gamepedia wiki when they, after huge stability issues related to SMW sitewide, decided to de facto ban it and urge wikis to transition over to Cargo. So I have, or at least had, a good deal of knowledge about it, and created a bunch of templates when [https://pillarsofeternity.gamepedia.com Pillars of Eternity] transitioned from SMW to Cargo. It's not perfect of course, but I found it really useful, so wanted to leave a tip here about it, just in case admins/mods want to look into it.
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:RandomSelection RandomSelection]: This can be neat on the main page for various gameplay tips and such, which then get randomly selected. Not sure if there would be a good use for it with this game, but I have seen it used to good effect on other wikis, such as [https://witcher.gamepedia.com/Witcher_Wiki Witcher 3].

== Suggestions ==

* ''Install [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:MobileFrontend the MobileFrontend-extension]'' -- [[User:Crasheripot|Crasheripot]]

== Updates needed for 1.0+ ==

<s>The ''updates needed'' list appears to be outdated. Is there a list or overview somewhere of what needs to be updated since the 1.0 release of the game?

The main thing I wanted to touch upon, however, is the question whether there is some type of centralised overview about what needs to be updated wiki-wide after the release of 1.0 :) [[User:Pangaea|Pangaea]] ([[User talk:Pangaea|talk]]) 17:33, 24 June 2019 (UTC)</s>

:The only major difference between Beta 19 and 1.0 is the addition of a food restriction system, all other changes are mostly just balancing. These will have to be discovered manually as I don't think they are mentioned anywhere in the official changelogs. '''[[User:PigeonGuru|PigeonGuru]]''', Strategist ( [[User_talk:PigeonGuru|talk]] | [[Special:Contributions/PigeonGuru|contribs]] | [[Guides|assist]] ) 04:28, 25 July 2019 (UTC)

== Updates needed for Beta 19/ 1.0 ==

Like before, a list of changes that need to be added. '''[[User:PigeonGuru|PigeonGuru]]''', Strategist ( [[User_talk:PigeonGuru|talk]] | [[Special:Contributions/PigeonGuru|contribs]] | [[Guides|assist]] ) 14:36, 28 August 2018 (UTC)

=== New features ===
*Improved raids:
**Balanced raid points to ensure smooth progression
*Improved caravaning:
**Added Caravan tab with caravan loading progress
**Redesigned "Form caravan" window: stats like carried mass, caravan speed, days worth of food, and visibility are now explained better
**Added "Remove from caravan" command: remove people or animals from the caravan even if it hasn't left the map yet
**Added "Load into caravan" right-click option: designate extra items to be picked up by the caravan before leaving
*New designators: Mass-forbid and unforbid
*New main tab: Wildlife. Allows easy counting, finding, and designating of wild animals
*New type of attack: Kick sand/water in eyes
*You can now smooth natural rough rock walls into high-quality walls
*New edge shader for blueprints looks much nicer and more visible than before.
*Workbench bills can now be assigned to specific colonists
*Added "Show what will buy" window which shows all items a trader will buy
*Trees’ color now depends on the current season
*Added toggleable auto-rebuild functionality: automatically place blueprints whenever a building is destroyed
*Checkboxes are now "paintable": you can mass-select all checkboxes by clicking and dragging the mouse over them
*Workbench bills can now be copied and pasted
*Colonists now opportunistically haul things while working if their current target is roughly in the same direction
*It's now possible to mass-cancel all designations with a designator's right-click menu
*It's now possible to forbid/unforbid all items and rearm all traps with a designator's right-click menu
*You can now drag and reorder colonists in the colonist bar
*Social interaction log now has flavorful randomized text instead of the same repeated interaction text every time.
*Random variant art added for some plants
*Mods page now has a search bar so you can easily find one mod in your list of hundreds

=== Adjustments ===

*Heavily rearranged the research tree for easier reading
*Joy need is renamed to 'recreation'
*Battles in the Combat tab are now named
*Totally reworked how plants grow. Wild plants after several in-game years should now look more or less as good as at the beginning
*Items of the same type in the Items tab are now grouped together
*Items in the Items tab can now be sorted by mass, market value, etc.
*When placing or selecting work stations where pawns can sit while working, the spot where the pawn goes is indicated by a chair outline so the player realizes that a chair can be built there
*Changed deep moving water to chest-deep moving water: walkable but slower than shallow water
*Reworked a ton of text generation to create more sensible, interesting results
*Misc interface tweaks: colonists forming a caravan now have a special icon in the colonist bar, hovering over stats in the stat window now shows their details, added copy to clipboard button in the Combat tab
*Doctors can draw medicine from the same stack at the same time
*Downed colonists in hostile maps are now automatically kidnapped by the enemy (if there are no more healthy colonists nearby)
*Insects will no longer attack the colony when harmed by raiders
*Hives will no longer spawn close to enemy bases
*Item deterioration rate now takes into account several factors, including being outdoors, being unroofed, and being in water
*No more random deaths from meteorites falling on colonists
*Insects will now go into hypothermic slowdown instead of getting hypothermia
*Caravan members now slowly gain social recreation when the caravan is not moving
*Ambush maps now retain information about the caravan's exact sub-tile position, which means that caravans will now continue their journey from the same position after being ambushed
*Death letter now contains information about last, relevant events
*When a health condition in the Health tab is clicked we now seek to appropriate combat log entry
*It's no longer possible to build roof over trees
*Growing trees now requires research and you can now only grow trees which grow naturally in the local biome
*Alphabeavers incident now only occurs in biomes with sparse plants
*Plant cut/harvest time now depends on the plant's growth
*Mechanoids now always die on downed
*Nutrient paste dispensers are now orange when they can be used by prisoners
*Doing passionate work now affects mood instead of recreation
*Firefoam poppers will now pop whenever there's a fire in a 3-cell radius
*Exotic goods outlander traders will no longer trade furniture
*Some traders will now buy only some types of animals, not all
*Adjusted doctors and patients work priorities a bit so they do urgent work first
*Important world objects are now easier to see when the camera is zoomed out
*The player now must choose a route for the caravan before sending it
*Caravans will no longer rest just before reaching their destination
*Heavily reworked how caravan movement speed works. Every tile now has an easy-to-understand, well-explained "movement difficulty" stat
*Bedrolls now have quality ratings
*Removed Electric armor
*Most crafting benches are now uninstallable and reinstallable
*Inspired colonists now get a special icon in the colonist bar
*Colonists will now take pemmican to inventory (like meals)
*Frag grenades are no longer a valid hunting weapon
*Ores mined by non-colonists (e.g. insects) now spawn forbidden
*Alerts now also look at caravan members where appropriate
*The permadeath savefile is now also renamed when the colony is given a name
*"autostart.rws" is now automatically loaded on start in dev mode, for faster testing
*Combined ribs into rib cage
*Animals' melee damage now scales with life stage
*Plants in the plant selection menu are now sorted by category and name
*Reworked the "advanced map options" dialog layout, extreme game-breaking map sizes are now disabled by default and must be enabled in the options
*Minerals and ancient dangers will no longer appear on encounter maps
*Graves now show the person's date of death
*Tribal factions can now do sapper raids
*Added medical care column to the Assign tab
*Removed Shoddy and Superior item qualities
*Adjusted quality impact on various stats to be less extreme and more steady in most cases
*Rebalanced and refactored quality generation. Masterwork/legendary level items never generate on enemies, traders, bases. Masterwork/legendary items are extra hard to craft - generally you can now only get them by inspiration or from quests
*Removed the distinction between allowed areas and animal areas
*Wearing new apparel now takes time. Colonists now take off the colliding apparel first (which takes time) before wearing the new one
*Inspiration expiration time is now shown on the inspect pane
*Added minimum crafting skill to various weapon and apparel crafting recipes
*Colonists can now wear armor vests with tribalwear
*Minor starvation (below 25% severity) no longer causes miscarriages
*Pets and bonded animals no longer disturb sleep
*When reforming a caravan, we now list colonists' inventory separately so the player can choose what to take and what to leave
*Enemies no longer use single use rocket launchers during caravan ambushes
*Some letters now show information about the related faction relations in the bottom right corner
*Various floors now require research. Split hospital beds into "Sterile materials" and "Hospital beds" research projects
*All traders are now unwilling to buy tainted apparel
*Projectile impacts now wake up nearby people and animals
*Explosive weapons now explode when set on fire
*Wood-powered fires and coolers no longer vanish when fuel is exhausted, they wait to be refueled
*Fixed issues with animals sometimes randomly opening doors in combat and allowing enemies in
*Improved following behavior so animals following their master will now try to stay close to him
*Traders will no longer accept typical short-life meals (paste, simple, fine, lavish)

=== Balance ===

*Reduced threat points for incidents by about 15%. Also reshaped the threat points curve to be easier in the early game, and tougher in the mid-late game.
*World quest destinations appear 10% closer to the player bases.
*Table search radius 25 -> 32
*The “expectations” thoughts progress more rapidly.
*Doubled initial blight size, increase spread rate by 30%.
*Go frenzy inspiration duration 1 day -> 2 days
*For all cases where a world quest has a time limit, increase the time limit by 50%
*Poison ship part plant-killing circle stops expanding at radius 50.
*Wounds are 50% less likely to become permanent scars.
*Burying corpses takes 2x longer. Digging graves takes 20% longer.
*Increased delay before auto-undraft by 20%.
*Shallow water movement cost 12 -> 22
*Equalized mood penalties for being too hot and too cold.
*Refactored how apparel armor is calculated to be simpler, and rebalanced all apparel and stuff armor stats. Many thing protect from sharp attacks, few protect from blunt attacks, so blunt damage is now clearly specialized in attacking armored enemies.
*Refactored how apparel insulation is calculated to be simpler, and rebalanced all apparel and stuff insulation stats.
*Removed the impact of item hit points on various stats: Apparel armor rating, apparel insulation, shield belt max energy, melee weapon damage, ranged weapon accuracy.
*Heavily reworked the selection weights of raider factions, raider strategies (sappers, siege, etc) and arrival modes (walk-in, drop pods) to make the more difficult ones appear more consistently against stronger colonies.
*Removed shoddy and superior quality levels. Rebalanced other qualities to have a smoother progression up to Excellent; masterwork and rare are really special quality levels with big stat boosts which can usually only be acquired by special means like quests and inspirations.
*Overhauled mental break probabilities. Aside from some exceptional cases, all mental breaks are more or less equally probable.
*World quests now appear about 2.5x more often and start from 6 days instead of 15 days.
*Rebalanced plant work speed stat so it is 100% at 8 skill.
*Fixed a bug that caused there to be too many wild animals.
*Small adjustments to some biome disease frequencies and animal densities
*Rebalanced flammability across the whole game.
*Adjusted balance of learning rates for various skills. Easier: Melee, shooting, social. Harder: Intellectual, growing, mining.
*Extensive rebalance of the probabilities of various pawn kinds spawning with various weapons, tech hediffs, and apparel.
*Allies will come to help more often during fights, and come with enough force to make a difference - but only if they’re actually allied in the new diplomacy system.
*Increased base infection chances.
Quest rewards generation totally reworked to more consistently generate valuable, unique, -and interesting rewards.
*Trade requests will give more time and much richer rewards, especially for poor colonies.
*Rebalanced beauty of items, buildings, floors, filth, and plants game-wide.
*Rebalanced the intensity and duration of many thoughts.
*Deep drills cost more and mine slower.
*Items:
**Drastically reduced apparel crafting work times, especially for basic items.
**Added minimum crafting skill to various weapon and apparel crafting recipes.
**Reworked power armor/charge rifle crafting cost. They take a lot less components, and some advanced components, and less time.
**Shield belt cost (3x component, 60x plasteel, 5x uranium ) -> (2x component, 50x steel, 10x plasteel). Production time to 50% of current.
**Small sculpture mass 5 -> 3. Large sculpture mass 10 -> 7. Grand sculpture mass 50 -> 25.
*Plants:
**All non-tree sowable crops yield 20% less when harvested and take 10% longer to sow.
**Newly-seeded trees and other such plants are now faster to cut down than mature ones. -----The cut/harvest time lerps from 30% of normal just after sowing, up to 100% when the plant is mature.
**Sowing any kind of tree now requires 6 growing skill.
**Sowing trees takes 8x longer.
**Trees can only be sown with a research called “Tree Sowing” that costs 500. Tribals start with this research. It has no prerequisites.
**You can only sow trees which grow naturally in the local biome. This includes saguaro cactus.
**Reduced all tree-type plant’s max hit points by to 66% of old values.
**Bomb damage now does 2x damage vs plants.
**Rose and Daylily sow work 440 -> 600, to solve the exploit where people fill a ugly rooms with flowers.
**Healroot grow days 6.5 -> 12, sow and harvest work increased significantly.
**Reduced daylily and rose lifespans.
**Rice, strawberries, healroot, corn, cotton min fertility 50% -> 100%.
**Sand fertility 6% -> 10%.
<s>*Research:
**Colonies start game with passive cooler research.
**Colonies no longer start game with batteries and solar panels and nutrient paste research.
**Nutrient paste research cost 600 -> 300.
**Recurve bow research cost 200 -> 400.
**Carpet making research cost 1200 -> 600.
**Autodoor research cost 400 -> 600.
**Shield belt research prerequisite Multi-analyzer -> Microelectronics basics
**Shield belt research cost 3000 -> 1400
**Psychoid pekoe research cost 400 -> 800
**Brewing research cost 700 -> 400
**Refining research cost 1200 -> 700
**Ground-penetrating scanner research cost 7000 -> 4500. </s> All research should be up-to-date. '''[[User:PigeonGuru|PigeonGuru]]''', Strategist ( [[User_talk:PigeonGuru|talk]] | [[Special:Contributions/PigeonGuru|contribs]] | [[Guides|assist]] ) 07:02, 8 August 2019 (UTC)
*Buildings:
**Reduced all costs to build the ship components by 30%
**Slowed constructing buildings with all stone types by 20%
**Adjusted minimum construction skill on a variety of buildings (generally adding one where there was none)
**Bedrolls rest effectiveness 0.93 -> 0.95
**Bedrolls comfort 0.6 -> 0.68
**Wind turbine width 5 cells -> 7 cells
*Animals:
**Adjusted chances of various animals going manhunter on failed taming attempts and on being harmed.
**Adjusted many animal market values and movement speeds.
**Human leather amount 25 -> 50
**Animals leather amount increased 50% across the board
**Animal train chance reduced 25%.
**Animal train chance wildness factor range: 0.05~2.00 -> 0.50~1.50.
**Obedience training steps 1 -> 3.
**Warg damage increased by 15%.
**Warg wildness 80% -> 35%
**All insects main attack cooldowns 2.5 -> 2.9
**Alphabeaver body size 0.6 -> 0.45
**Wild boar trainable intelligence Advanced -> Intermediate (pig still has Advanced)
**Wild boar tusk damage 9 -> 8
**Wild boar speed 5 -> 4.2 (pig is still 3.6)
**Wild boar min comfy temperature -20 -> -15
**Pig bite damage 7 -> 6
**Pig market value 280 -> 200
**Boomalope chemfuel production reduced by 40%
**Boomalope hunger rate 1.0 -> 1.3
**Alpaca move speed 3.8 -> 3.2
**Alpaca leg damage 7 -> 6
**Dromedary leg damage 11 -> 8
**Wolf wildness 75% -> 85%.
**Wolf trainable intelligence Advanced -> Intermediate
**Wolf bite damage 11 -> 12
**Wolf scratch usage commonality 100% -> 50% per side
**Wolf nuzzle interval 120 -> 240 hours
**Husky, lab body sizes reduced slightly
**Lab hunger rate 0.5 -> 0.4
**Thrumbo hunger rate 4.5->3.5
**Nuzzle target search distance 15 -> 40
**Nuzzled memory duration 0.5 days->1 day, stacked effect multipler 0.95->0.5, stack limit 10->3
**Yorkshire terrier nuzzle interval 15 -> 24 hours
**Monkey, chinchilla nuzzle interval 72 -> 48 hours
**Hare, snowhare nuzzle interval 120 -> 72
**Muffalo, alpaca, warg no longer nuzzle
**Tortoise armor 50% -> 30%.
*Drugs:
**Psychoid pekoe psychoid tolerance gain 0.02 -> 0.03
**Psychoid pekoe market value 14 -> 10
**Psychoid pekoe restFallFactor 0.9 -> 0.8
**Hop plant min grow skill 7 -> 3
**Beer fermenting time 10 days -> 6 days
**Alcohol loses hidden ‘buzzed’ stage;‘warm’ begins from 0 severity
**Alcohol severity per day -1.0 -> 0.75, so it lasts longer
**Alcohol mood gains all increase +2
**Smokeleaf mood gain 15 -> 13
*Ranged weapons:
**Pawns hit by ranged attacks now stagger the same way as pawns hit by melee attacks. This effect only happens if the weapon's stopping power stat is equal or greater than the target's body size.
**Missed shots now have a 50% extra chance of hitting nothing; this will make missed shots less likely to hit random things (but doesn’t change the chance of missing).
*Melee:
**Debuffed fists very slightly (~5%) in cooldown
**Debuffed ranged weapon melee attacks to be in line with fists in terms of DPS
**Buffed beer bottles, and wood log slightly (~10%) above fists in terms of DPS
**Serious melee weapons (knife on upward) across the board 5%-10% DPS buff

== Updates needed for Beta 18 ==

Like before: a list of all changes from Beta 18 that need to be added. '''[[User:PigeonGuru|PigeonGuru]]''', Strategist ( [[User_talk:PigeonGuru|talk]] | [[Special:Contributions/PigeonGuru|contribs]] | [[Guides|assist]] ) 10:27, 18 November 2017 (UTC)

=== World generation ===

*Caves now form sometimes in mountainous maps. Inside there are special cave plants. There can also be dormant insect hives.

===Content===

*Various different kinds of plant

===Misc additions===
*Storyful combat: A major rework of melee combat, and a new way to report all combat interactions. Storyful combat generates a combat log that reports each blow, miss, swipe, block and fall in the combat. During or after a fight, you can review the combat log to see what happened, to generate a richer story.

*New world site components (used in various situations):
**Animal ambush

==Updates needed for previous alphas==

A list of all changes from Alpha 17 and prior, that need to be added to their respective pages. Don't forget to <nowiki><s></nowiki> <s>strikethrough</s> <nowiki></s></nowiki> any items you complete and sign them with '''[https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Signatures <nowiki>~~~~</nowiki>]'''. '''[[User:PigeonGuru|PigeonGuru]]''', Strategist ( [[User_talk:PigeonGuru|talk]] | [[Special:Contributions/PigeonGuru|contribs]] | [[Guides|assist]] ) 14:42, 28 August 2018 (UTC)

=== Modding ===
Since the contents of this section are a bit harder to document and not as relevant to the majority of people visiting the wiki, i will put a collapse here for the time being.
{{Collapse|
*Modders can now add “def modifiers” which, instead of replacing a whole def, change specific fields of that def. This allows multiple mods to change the same def without wiping each others’ changes (unless they change the same field, of course).
*Information on how to use def modifiers is in this forum thread: [[https://ludeon.com/forums/index.php?topic=32735.0 https://ludeon.com/forums/index.php?topic=32735.0]]
*Various enums are now defs so modders can add new ones (TrainableIntelligence , DamageArmorCategory, ImpactSoundType, ReservationLayer, BillRepeatMode, PrisonerInteractionMode, FleshType).
*GUI tables (like most of the main tabs along the bottom of the screen) are now defined by data, making it easier to add, rearrange, sort, and change columns on the UI.
*Increasing skill relevance
*Mining skill reworked: Steeper speed penalty for low skill. Mining yield is now slightly dependent on mining skill.
*Work tab boxes are easier to identify skill level for visually.
}}

=== Miscellaneous Changes ===

* [16] UI can now be scaled to arbitrary scaling factors, for players who play in really high resolution.
* [11b] Mods config page shows load order of mods.

==== Characters ====
* [11a] Guests are smarter and no longer walk out of the colony bleeding.

[[Category:Wiki maintenance]]

Events Guide

2020-02-05T12:13:04Z

Mayoculpa: /* Psychic foil helmets */

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This guide is about surviving natural [[events]] that the game throws at you. To defend your base against offensive threats, see [[Defense tactics]].

== Basics ==

A successful colony should be able to stand up against most events without problem. This includes several aspects.

=== Crops ===

Cold temperatures can kill [[plants]]. This is a more concerning issue for colonies continuing to grow crops in the winter, when temperatures can wipe out entire harvests.

Heat, on the other hand, can't kill plants, but can stifle their growth greatly.

Light levels are another major factor in plant growth. It can't grow in places with light level below 50%, and some events affect external light levels.

While crops grow rapidly in hydroponics basins, they have a drawback: if they are disconnected from power, the plants inside quickly die. Some hard power-outages, such as solar flares, are damaging to colonies relying on these. Other events may also end in power outages that have the same effect, if precautions are not taken.

=== Food ===

Always keep a great stock of food at hand in case of hard times. Stock up at least 20 days of food, with more the shorter the growing season, so you can survive the winter or extended events such as volcanic winters.

While stocking on food, consider the animals as well, as outdoors plants may be rendered inedible, or it's not safe to go outside for food.

=== Power ===

While [[solar panel|solar power]] seems reliable at first, regularly and predictably powering the colony, '''it should not be relied on as the sole source of power''' as the light level is affected by many events, like the Eclipse, therefore affecting the power available to the colony.

To fix this, add some [[wind turbine]]s into the mix, which isn't affected by light level, though its power output is somewhat unpredictable. Once researched, [[geothermal generator]]s are a must-have, as they provide large amounts of power 24/7.

[[Battery|Batteries]] are essential for any colony that uses solar or wind power. Make sure you give the ability to disconnect groups of batteries from the grid, so in case of a short circuit less power is wasted and less damage is done.

== Blight ==

One of your crop fields has contracted a plant disease. If it is too close to another field, the infection may have spread to even more plants before your colonists detected it. Plants struck by blight show a clump of yellowish blotches and will die within a day or so. These plants must be cut very quickly, or the blight will spread even further.

Cutting all affected plants gets rid of the blight. If it is not dealt with, it will spread to any nearby crop field and destroy any crops.

There is no way to stop blight from occurring. You can minimize the damage it can do by how you set up your growing zones. A gap of 4 tiles with no plant coverage prevents the spread of blight. It also cannot cross walls or go through doors or vents, even if the vent or door is held open. Blight will only strike one field at a time, as long as they are sufficiently separated. So it is a good idea to have more than one growing zone for very important crops, and to make sure no individual growing zone is so large that its loss would be a catastrophe.

Wild plants are never affected by blight.

== Cold snap ==

A cold snap sends temperatures plummeting, reducing temperatures by 20 °C for several days.

The main threat of cold snaps is hypothermia, which strikes early-game bases much harder. Crop death is also an issue, and can disrupt many bases that lack greenhouses, or grow crops outdoors throughout the winter and thus don't stock up food to prepare for it.

=== Crops and plants ===

When a cold snap starts, immediately harvest any viable crops exposed to the outside. Crops begin to die at -10C/14F. If a crop has reached 65% maturity you can get some produce from harvesting it; if the plants die it will be lost.

Crops growing in a warmed greenhouse won't be affected, so you may build some to negate the effects of cold snaps in crop growth. If your crop fields are already walled, you can put roofs over them and add heaters or campfires to keep them from dying. They won't grow without daylight or a [[sun lamp]]. But a cold snap should not last long enough to cause them to "die from rotting" due to lack of light.

=== Food ===

When all your crops are culled by the cold, you will need some time before you can harvest from your next batch of crops. Thus, keep a plentiful food storage on hand.

Grazing animals may also starve as the grasses shrivel up, rendering them inedible. To combat this, keep [[haygrass]] or [[kibble]] handy, and forbid them, only allowing animals to eat them when crises arise.

Any animal except wargs can eat [[simple meal]]s. So you can feed simple meals to grazing animals even if you have only meat available.

=== Keeping warm ===

To keep your colonists warm and protect them from the cold, make [[jacket]]s, [[duster]]s, [[tuque]]s or in harsher conditions [[parka]]s, and give them to colonists that do a lot of outdoor work (excluding growing, which is impossible in the cold weather). If you don't have enough fabric or technology to make better clothing, keep the rest of your colonists indoors, which you can warm up.

While you can rotate your workers to allow recovery from the cold, it's not recommended to do so due to frostbite.

In early-game, you can chop down trees to make [[campfire]]s for warmth. Later on, build enough [[heater]]s in each room to keep them warm even in cold snaps.

== Eclipse ==

A short-lasting event that causes the outdoor brightness to greatly lower over its duration.

Overall, this event does not cause much harm on its own, however when combined with other events it can complicate matters.

=== Power ===

It has a great impact on colonies reliant on [[solar panel]]s, which will barely function during an eclipse.

To counter this, build [[wind turbine]]s which continue to produce power without light, and [[geothermal generator]]s which provides constant power 24/7. These help to fill out part of the energy deficit caused by your solar panels not functioning.

Building additional [[battery|batteries]] to help collect power when sunlight is plenty may ease the situation a little.

=== Crops ===

During an eclipse outdoors plants won't grow due to the low light levels. This doesn't really have an impact on already well-stocked bases, but you're critically low on food and really need that harvest to come, it can spell doom.

== Flashstorm ==

During flashstorms, lightning rapidly strikes a small area, setting it on fire. In plant-rich areas, the fire can spread across the map, potentially causing great damage. It also delays the presence of rain, giving time for the fire to spread before being put out.

=== Active extinguishing ===

If you have spare colonists on hand, you can direct them to preemptively extinguish the fires before they spread out of control.

Draw a home area over the area affected by the flashstorm, and colonists will automatically go and put out the fires. If they are fast enough, the 3x3 squares of fire left behind by the lightning will be contained without much spreading. Be sure to remove home area afterwards, or else you may find your janitors out in the hinterlands cleaning dirt.

=== [[Firefoam popper]]s ===

You can relocate some firefoam poppers, either to somewhere in your base facing the advancing fires as a defense, or to directly extinguish fires and preventing them from spreading to the foam.

Keep in mind that firefoam poppers are rather costly and one-use.

=== Firebreaks ===

In biomes with heavy plant growth such as tropical swamps, sending colonists to extinguish fires is often an exercise in futility. It is therefore necessary to prevent the fire from getting too close to your base in the first place.

A 4-tile-wide gap prevents the spread of fire. A stone or concrete floor is a great way to do this if the ground can support it. Another method is to put up a stone wall, or even single segments of stone wall, and build a roof from them out to a distance of 4 tiles. Once a patch of ground has been roofed over, no more plants will grow. It's possible to do this using a stockpile of stone chunks or by regularly sending plant cutters to clear the ground manually, but those methods are more labor-intensive and less effective.

== Heat wave ==

The opposite to a cold snap, this causes temperatures to rise by up to 17 °C for a few days.

The main danger arises from freezer failure, which can cause food to start spoiling in an inadequately cooled freezer that can't beat the heat. It can also cause heatstroke which greatly affects outdoor workers.

Since plants don't usually die except in the hottest of regions, this event is usually less damaging than cold snaps economically. However, extreme heat is less comfortable than extreme cold, and is slightly harder to beat.

=== Keeping cool ===

To keep your colonists cool and protect them from the heat, make [[cowboy hat]]s, [[bowler hat]]s and [[duster]]s. These three pieces of garments are the only ones that provide heat insulation. 
If you don't have the technology to make these then you should rotate your outdoor workers in shifts so they have time to recover between exposure to heat.

Make sure you have enough coolers to keep cool even in the middle of a heat wave. In tribal starts it may be worth it to research passive coolers in order to cool down rooms before you have electricity.

=== Freezers ===

Double walling freezers helps with insulation against heat, helping your freezer stay functioning in heat waves. Make sure you don't block off the exhaust port of the coolers otherwise they won't function.

The more straightforward solution to this is to build even more coolers, though this will require more power. A way to do so a bit more efficiently is to have two coolers set to different temperatures. One cooler set to a moderately cold temperature, for example, -10C, will be on low power mode most of the time and only kick in when the outside temperature is very high. A second cooler set to a very low temperature, for example, -30C, will be on high power mode all the time.

You can also temporarily forbid the door to your freezer to slow the loss of cold air during a heat wave.

== Psychic drone ==

This event causes the mood of most colonists of a selected sex to drop by a large amount (-15, but dependent on [[traits]]) over a few days. While a -15 mood isn't too harmful if your colonists are well cared for, it can add insult to injury if you are already suffering from other additional events or are trying to rebuild in their aftermath.

Humanoids are the only ones affected in this event.

=== Trait effects ===

Some traits affect the sensitivity a colonist is to psychic events.

*Psychically sensitive and hypersensitive colonists will suffer greatly during this event as their increased sensitivity corresponds to a greater mood drop.
*On the contrary, psychically dull colonists are less affected, and psychically deaf colonists won't feel a thing at all.

=== Countering the mood drop ===

You can do the following things to alleviate the mood drop. The drone lasts only a short while so temporary measures are okay.

*Give colonists more recreation hours and spread them throughout the day so they will constantly have a +5 to +10 mood buff from fulfilling their recreation needs.
*Allow your colonists to have some social drugs to lift their spirits. Don't give too much otherwise they risk addiction.
*If a pawn's negative thoughts can't be countered - for example, a neurotic colonist whose spouse recently died - you can anesthetize them for a day. It won't make them feel better, but it's impossible to have a mental break if they are unconscious.

=== [[Psychic foil helmet]]s ===

A niche item that comes into good use here. It's best to equip these on those most affected by the psychic drone, or those already suffering from a low mood due to other things. However, it is terrible for blocking damage, so remember to switch back to regular helmets if needed.

It can be effective to forbid psychic foil helmets in your colonists' everyday Outfit in the Assign tab. Prioritize a high risk colonist to force-wear the foil helmet during the psychic drone. Then when the drone is over, go back to the Assign tab and clear the force. They will automatically remove the helmet and choose more appropriate headgear.

== Solar flare ==

A highly disruptive event that shuts down all electrical devices with electromagnetic pulses. Its disruptive potential is magnified should another event coincide with it, such as heat waves, and the fact that it cannot be countered (i.e. no ways to prevent shutdown of electronics in the basegame) does not help either. Devices not using power are immune.

It chiefly affects early-mid to late-game colonies that have electric appliances in them. Colonies extensively reliant on electricity, such as those using hydroponics farming or [[turret]]s, are especially affected.

=== Crops ===

Plants in a shut down hydroponics system will quickly die. Manually harvest them before they wither completely.

Plants growing in a sheltered greenhouse with a sun lamp but not hydroponics won't grow during the power outage. If your colony is reliant on heaters and the temperature dips low enough they may die, but this can be prevented camp fires.

=== Fueled alternatives ===

Some production buildings have a fueled variant that consumes wood instead of power, and are immune to solar flares. This allows for production to continue during solar flares.

For lighting, [[torch lamp]]s also work, though they emit a softer light.

However, these all take up additional space, so they may not be worth building. If you are encountering additional power issues then they may be worth a try.

=== Freezers ===

Another structure hit hard with flares, freezers will stop functioning completely, as opposed to heat waves in which a well-built freezer may still be able to retain sub-zero temperatures.

Double-walling freezers help keep in the cold for slightly longer.

=== Temperature control ===

If temperatures are outside comfortable range, you can remedy this using the more traditional campfires or passive coolers. However, since solar flares don't last too long, this may be worth the effort only if colonists are at serious risk of hypothermia or heatstroke.

== Toxic fallout ==

A persistent event that poisons the atmosphere with toxic dust, slowly sickening animals and humans, killing plants, as well as slightly reducing brightness outside.

This is a highly dangerous event across all stages of the game, severely punishing outdoor activity and killing crops.

=== Stay indoors ===

Unless necessary, you should have everyone (including animals) stay underneath a roof so they won't be affected by the toxic fallout. For those that do need to get out, make sure to limit their exposure and give them plenty of time to recover.

=== Hunt quickly ===

For approximately the first day of toxic fallout, wildlife can still be hunted and butchered. When the animals' toxic buildup gets too high, they will instantly rot upon death. After the first few days any surviving wildlife will flee the map entirely. Get all the meat you can while it's still possible to do so.

=== Plan ahead ===

Set up a "Roofed" [[allowed area]] '''before''' this event occurs. A roof extending one or two tiles around the edge of your base, and roofed walkways supported by pillars leading out to your crop fields or perimeter wall, will be a lifesaver. Any pawn whose toxic buildup goes from "initial" to "moderate" should be restricted to the roofed zone.

If possible, have a dirt-floor greenhouse set up and ready to go. You can build a sunlamp in the middle of a sunlamp-shaped crop field and make sure it is turned off until you need to build a roof over it and turn it on. You could also build a backup sunlamp, uninstall it and keep it in storage. This will allow you to quickly build a roof and power up a sunlamp over an existing crop field as soon as toxic fallout arrives.

Although it's best to surround a greenhouse with walls for protection from raiders, it's not strictly necessary. Even if you've just moved your colony to a brand new tile and get a long toxic fallout immediately upon arrival, you can throw down a couple roof support pillars, a sunlamp and a growing zone and start planting.

=== Crops ===

You can still continue to grow crops outdoors, but less successfully. To maximize the chances of successful harvest, grow fast-growing crops such as rice and harvest them quickly.

For a tribal colony that has not yet researched electricity, this may be the only option. However, most tribes will be able to research electricity within the first two or three years; toxic fallouts should not last more than a quadrum or so during that time.

=== Fallout retreat colony ===

Just make a quick caravan and move your people to another world map tile, preferably with one space between your original position and the new one. This allows you to completely avoid the effects of toxic fallout. However, this also exposes your base to attack as there will be nobody left to defend. This requires raising the colony limit to 2 in the main game options menu.

== Volcanic winter ==

A long-lasting event where volcanic ash obscures the sun, slowly causing daylight level to drop to 86% of normal values. Because of this, plants will grow slower, solar panels will not generate as much electricity and temperatures will drop.

=== Crops ===
[[File:Volcanic winter sunlamp.jpg|thumb|In an extreme desert, rain is rare and soil is scarce. In other biomes, you should roof your emergency sun lamps.]]
Volcanic winters won't kill plants outright, but it still has the potential to kill plants should the temperatures drop. You may want to expand your growing zones so you can keep up food production.

Like cold snaps, building warmed and lighted greenhouses can help with crop growth during volcanic winters.

== Poison Ship ==

Poison Ships spread a plant-killing, toxic snow that will eventually cover the entire map. This can devastate outdoor crops, even those in outdoor hydroponics basins, destroying the colony's food supply.

=== Defense ===
The toxic snow created by a poison ship affects all outdoor plants, in a similar way to the Toxic Fallout event. However, indoor, roofed crops are unaffected, so the tactics for surviving the Toxic Fallout event can be successfully applied here. Interestingly, walls tend to block the spread of the toxic snow. Therefore, surrounding the poison ship with either a roofed or unroofed stockade so that the ship is "indoors" can contain the toxins indefinitely until you are ready to deal with it.

Like the Psychic Ship event, the Poison Ship will spawn mechanoids as soon as it takes any form of damage. Placing an IED so that the ship is within the device's blast radius will also cause the mechanoids to spawn. One tactic for dealing with these threats is to surround the ship with IEDs at a distance of 5 blocks - just outside the blast zone. Then, use a long-range sniper to attack the ship and lure the mechanoids out into the traps.

== Legacy events ==

=== Tornado ===

For those still playing Beta 18, a tornado can occasionally cut a path of destruction across the map, damaging everything in its way.

It is capable of wreaking havoc on even well-prepared bases, making it dangerous to face across all stages of the game. However, mountain bases are spared the wrath of the tornado as it can't get through the layers of overhead mountain.

Obviously you need to get your colonists out of the way of the tornado. It is easily outpaced by healthy colonists. Incapacitated colonists lying in bed should be moved elsewhere before they are stricken.

{{nav/guides}}
[[Category:Guides]]

Events Guide

2020-02-05T12:10:27Z

Mayoculpa: /* Freezers */

{{stub}}
{{Image wanted}}
{{Tocright}}

This guide is about surviving natural [[events]] that the game throws at you. To defend your base against offensive threats, see [[Defense tactics]].

== Basics ==

A successful colony should be able to stand up against most events without problem. This includes several aspects.

=== Crops ===

Cold temperatures can kill [[plants]]. This is a more concerning issue for colonies continuing to grow crops in the winter, when temperatures can wipe out entire harvests.

Heat, on the other hand, can't kill plants, but can stifle their growth greatly.

Light levels are another major factor in plant growth. It can't grow in places with light level below 50%, and some events affect external light levels.

While crops grow rapidly in hydroponics basins, they have a drawback: if they are disconnected from power, the plants inside quickly die. Some hard power-outages, such as solar flares, are damaging to colonies relying on these. Other events may also end in power outages that have the same effect, if precautions are not taken.

=== Food ===

Always keep a great stock of food at hand in case of hard times. Stock up at least 20 days of food, with more the shorter the growing season, so you can survive the winter or extended events such as volcanic winters.

While stocking on food, consider the animals as well, as outdoors plants may be rendered inedible, or it's not safe to go outside for food.

=== Power ===

While [[solar panel|solar power]] seems reliable at first, regularly and predictably powering the colony, '''it should not be relied on as the sole source of power''' as the light level is affected by many events, like the Eclipse, therefore affecting the power available to the colony.

To fix this, add some [[wind turbine]]s into the mix, which isn't affected by light level, though its power output is somewhat unpredictable. Once researched, [[geothermal generator]]s are a must-have, as they provide large amounts of power 24/7.

[[Battery|Batteries]] are essential for any colony that uses solar or wind power. Make sure you give the ability to disconnect groups of batteries from the grid, so in case of a short circuit less power is wasted and less damage is done.

== Blight ==

One of your crop fields has contracted a plant disease. If it is too close to another field, the infection may have spread to even more plants before your colonists detected it. Plants struck by blight show a clump of yellowish blotches and will die within a day or so. These plants must be cut very quickly, or the blight will spread even further.

Cutting all affected plants gets rid of the blight. If it is not dealt with, it will spread to any nearby crop field and destroy any crops.

There is no way to stop blight from occurring. You can minimize the damage it can do by how you set up your growing zones. A gap of 4 tiles with no plant coverage prevents the spread of blight. It also cannot cross walls or go through doors or vents, even if the vent or door is held open. Blight will only strike one field at a time, as long as they are sufficiently separated. So it is a good idea to have more than one growing zone for very important crops, and to make sure no individual growing zone is so large that its loss would be a catastrophe.

Wild plants are never affected by blight.

== Cold snap ==

A cold snap sends temperatures plummeting, reducing temperatures by 20 °C for several days.

The main threat of cold snaps is hypothermia, which strikes early-game bases much harder. Crop death is also an issue, and can disrupt many bases that lack greenhouses, or grow crops outdoors throughout the winter and thus don't stock up food to prepare for it.

=== Crops and plants ===

When a cold snap starts, immediately harvest any viable crops exposed to the outside. Crops begin to die at -10C/14F. If a crop has reached 65% maturity you can get some produce from harvesting it; if the plants die it will be lost.

Crops growing in a warmed greenhouse won't be affected, so you may build some to negate the effects of cold snaps in crop growth. If your crop fields are already walled, you can put roofs over them and add heaters or campfires to keep them from dying. They won't grow without daylight or a [[sun lamp]]. But a cold snap should not last long enough to cause them to "die from rotting" due to lack of light.

=== Food ===

When all your crops are culled by the cold, you will need some time before you can harvest from your next batch of crops. Thus, keep a plentiful food storage on hand.

Grazing animals may also starve as the grasses shrivel up, rendering them inedible. To combat this, keep [[haygrass]] or [[kibble]] handy, and forbid them, only allowing animals to eat them when crises arise.

Any animal except wargs can eat [[simple meal]]s. So you can feed simple meals to grazing animals even if you have only meat available.

=== Keeping warm ===

To keep your colonists warm and protect them from the cold, make [[jacket]]s, [[duster]]s, [[tuque]]s or in harsher conditions [[parka]]s, and give them to colonists that do a lot of outdoor work (excluding growing, which is impossible in the cold weather). If you don't have enough fabric or technology to make better clothing, keep the rest of your colonists indoors, which you can warm up.

While you can rotate your workers to allow recovery from the cold, it's not recommended to do so due to frostbite.

In early-game, you can chop down trees to make [[campfire]]s for warmth. Later on, build enough [[heater]]s in each room to keep them warm even in cold snaps.

== Eclipse ==

A short-lasting event that causes the outdoor brightness to greatly lower over its duration.

Overall, this event does not cause much harm on its own, however when combined with other events it can complicate matters.

=== Power ===

It has a great impact on colonies reliant on [[solar panel]]s, which will barely function during an eclipse.

To counter this, build [[wind turbine]]s which continue to produce power without light, and [[geothermal generator]]s which provides constant power 24/7. These help to fill out part of the energy deficit caused by your solar panels not functioning.

Building additional [[battery|batteries]] to help collect power when sunlight is plenty may ease the situation a little.

=== Crops ===

During an eclipse outdoors plants won't grow due to the low light levels. This doesn't really have an impact on already well-stocked bases, but you're critically low on food and really need that harvest to come, it can spell doom.

== Flashstorm ==

During flashstorms, lightning rapidly strikes a small area, setting it on fire. In plant-rich areas, the fire can spread across the map, potentially causing great damage. It also delays the presence of rain, giving time for the fire to spread before being put out.

=== Active extinguishing ===

If you have spare colonists on hand, you can direct them to preemptively extinguish the fires before they spread out of control.

Draw a home area over the area affected by the flashstorm, and colonists will automatically go and put out the fires. If they are fast enough, the 3x3 squares of fire left behind by the lightning will be contained without much spreading. Be sure to remove home area afterwards, or else you may find your janitors out in the hinterlands cleaning dirt.

=== [[Firefoam popper]]s ===

You can relocate some firefoam poppers, either to somewhere in your base facing the advancing fires as a defense, or to directly extinguish fires and preventing them from spreading to the foam.

Keep in mind that firefoam poppers are rather costly and one-use.

=== Firebreaks ===

In biomes with heavy plant growth such as tropical swamps, sending colonists to extinguish fires is often an exercise in futility. It is therefore necessary to prevent the fire from getting too close to your base in the first place.

A 4-tile-wide gap prevents the spread of fire. A stone or concrete floor is a great way to do this if the ground can support it. Another method is to put up a stone wall, or even single segments of stone wall, and build a roof from them out to a distance of 4 tiles. Once a patch of ground has been roofed over, no more plants will grow. It's possible to do this using a stockpile of stone chunks or by regularly sending plant cutters to clear the ground manually, but those methods are more labor-intensive and less effective.

== Heat wave ==

The opposite to a cold snap, this causes temperatures to rise by up to 17 °C for a few days.

The main danger arises from freezer failure, which can cause food to start spoiling in an inadequately cooled freezer that can't beat the heat. It can also cause heatstroke which greatly affects outdoor workers.

Since plants don't usually die except in the hottest of regions, this event is usually less damaging than cold snaps economically. However, extreme heat is less comfortable than extreme cold, and is slightly harder to beat.

=== Keeping cool ===

To keep your colonists cool and protect them from the heat, make [[cowboy hat]]s, [[bowler hat]]s and [[duster]]s. These three pieces of garments are the only ones that provide heat insulation. 
If you don't have the technology to make these then you should rotate your outdoor workers in shifts so they have time to recover between exposure to heat.

Make sure you have enough coolers to keep cool even in the middle of a heat wave. In tribal starts it may be worth it to research passive coolers in order to cool down rooms before you have electricity.

=== Freezers ===

Double walling freezers helps with insulation against heat, helping your freezer stay functioning in heat waves. Make sure you don't block off the exhaust port of the coolers otherwise they won't function.

The more straightforward solution to this is to build even more coolers, though this will require more power. A way to do so a bit more efficiently is to have two coolers set to different temperatures. One cooler set to a moderately cold temperature, for example, -10C, will be on low power mode most of the time and only kick in when the outside temperature is very high. A second cooler set to a very low temperature, for example, -30C, will be on high power mode all the time.

You can also temporarily forbid the door to your freezer to slow the loss of cold air during a heat wave.

== Psychic drone ==

This event causes the mood of most colonists of a selected sex to drop by a large amount (-15, but dependent on [[traits]]) over a few days. While a -15 mood isn't too harmful if your colonists are well cared for, it can add insult to injury if you are already suffering from other additional events or are trying to rebuild in their aftermath.

Humanoids are the only ones affected in this event.

=== Trait effects ===

Some traits affect the sensitivity a colonist is to psychic events.

*Psychically sensitive and hypersensitive colonists will suffer greatly during this event as their increased sensitivity corresponds to a greater mood drop.
*On the contrary, psychically dull colonists are less affected, and psychically deaf colonists won't feel a thing at all.

=== Countering the mood drop ===

You can do the following things to alleviate the mood drop. The drone lasts only a short while so temporary measures are okay.

*Give colonists more recreation hours and spread them throughout the day so they will constantly have a +5 to +10 mood buff from fulfilling their recreation needs.
*Allow your colonists to have some social drugs to lift their spirits. Don't give too much otherwise they risk addiction.
*If a pawn's negative thoughts can't be countered - for example, a neurotic colonist whose spouse recently died - you can anesthetize them for a day. It won't make them feel better, but it's impossible to have a mental break if they are unconscious.

=== [[Psychic foil helmet]]s ===

A niche item that comes into good use here. It's best to equip these on those most affected by the psychic drone, or those already suffering from a low mood due to other things. However, it is terrible for blocking damage, so remember to switch back to regular helmets if needed.

== Solar flare ==

A highly disruptive event that shuts down all electrical devices with electromagnetic pulses. Its disruptive potential is magnified should another event coincide with it, such as heat waves, and the fact that it cannot be countered (i.e. no ways to prevent shutdown of electronics in the basegame) does not help either. Devices not using power are immune.

It chiefly affects early-mid to late-game colonies that have electric appliances in them. Colonies extensively reliant on electricity, such as those using hydroponics farming or [[turret]]s, are especially affected.

=== Crops ===

Plants in a shut down hydroponics system will quickly die. Manually harvest them before they wither completely.

Plants growing in a sheltered greenhouse with a sun lamp but not hydroponics won't grow during the power outage. If your colony is reliant on heaters and the temperature dips low enough they may die, but this can be prevented camp fires.

=== Fueled alternatives ===

Some production buildings have a fueled variant that consumes wood instead of power, and are immune to solar flares. This allows for production to continue during solar flares.

For lighting, [[torch lamp]]s also work, though they emit a softer light.

However, these all take up additional space, so they may not be worth building. If you are encountering additional power issues then they may be worth a try.

=== Freezers ===

Another structure hit hard with flares, freezers will stop functioning completely, as opposed to heat waves in which a well-built freezer may still be able to retain sub-zero temperatures.

Double-walling freezers help keep in the cold for slightly longer.

=== Temperature control ===

If temperatures are outside comfortable range, you can remedy this using the more traditional campfires or passive coolers. However, since solar flares don't last too long, this may be worth the effort only if colonists are at serious risk of hypothermia or heatstroke.

== Toxic fallout ==

A persistent event that poisons the atmosphere with toxic dust, slowly sickening animals and humans, killing plants, as well as slightly reducing brightness outside.

This is a highly dangerous event across all stages of the game, severely punishing outdoor activity and killing crops.

=== Stay indoors ===

Unless necessary, you should have everyone (including animals) stay underneath a roof so they won't be affected by the toxic fallout. For those that do need to get out, make sure to limit their exposure and give them plenty of time to recover.

=== Hunt quickly ===

For approximately the first day of toxic fallout, wildlife can still be hunted and butchered. When the animals' toxic buildup gets too high, they will instantly rot upon death. After the first few days any surviving wildlife will flee the map entirely. Get all the meat you can while it's still possible to do so.

=== Plan ahead ===

Set up a "Roofed" [[allowed area]] '''before''' this event occurs. A roof extending one or two tiles around the edge of your base, and roofed walkways supported by pillars leading out to your crop fields or perimeter wall, will be a lifesaver. Any pawn whose toxic buildup goes from "initial" to "moderate" should be restricted to the roofed zone.

If possible, have a dirt-floor greenhouse set up and ready to go. You can build a sunlamp in the middle of a sunlamp-shaped crop field and make sure it is turned off until you need to build a roof over it and turn it on. You could also build a backup sunlamp, uninstall it and keep it in storage. This will allow you to quickly build a roof and power up a sunlamp over an existing crop field as soon as toxic fallout arrives.

Although it's best to surround a greenhouse with walls for protection from raiders, it's not strictly necessary. Even if you've just moved your colony to a brand new tile and get a long toxic fallout immediately upon arrival, you can throw down a couple roof support pillars, a sunlamp and a growing zone and start planting.

=== Crops ===

You can still continue to grow crops outdoors, but less successfully. To maximize the chances of successful harvest, grow fast-growing crops such as rice and harvest them quickly.

For a tribal colony that has not yet researched electricity, this may be the only option. However, most tribes will be able to research electricity within the first two or three years; toxic fallouts should not last more than a quadrum or so during that time.

=== Fallout retreat colony ===

Just make a quick caravan and move your people to another world map tile, preferably with one space between your original position and the new one. This allows you to completely avoid the effects of toxic fallout. However, this also exposes your base to attack as there will be nobody left to defend. This requires raising the colony limit to 2 in the main game options menu.

== Volcanic winter ==

A long-lasting event where volcanic ash obscures the sun, slowly causing daylight level to drop to 86% of normal values. Because of this, plants will grow slower, solar panels will not generate as much electricity and temperatures will drop.

=== Crops ===
[[File:Volcanic winter sunlamp.jpg|thumb|In an extreme desert, rain is rare and soil is scarce. In other biomes, you should roof your emergency sun lamps.]]
Volcanic winters won't kill plants outright, but it still has the potential to kill plants should the temperatures drop. You may want to expand your growing zones so you can keep up food production.

Like cold snaps, building warmed and lighted greenhouses can help with crop growth during volcanic winters.

== Poison Ship ==

Poison Ships spread a plant-killing, toxic snow that will eventually cover the entire map. This can devastate outdoor crops, even those in outdoor hydroponics basins, destroying the colony's food supply.

=== Defense ===
The toxic snow created by a poison ship affects all outdoor plants, in a similar way to the Toxic Fallout event. However, indoor, roofed crops are unaffected, so the tactics for surviving the Toxic Fallout event can be successfully applied here. Interestingly, walls tend to block the spread of the toxic snow. Therefore, surrounding the poison ship with either a roofed or unroofed stockade so that the ship is "indoors" can contain the toxins indefinitely until you are ready to deal with it.

Like the Psychic Ship event, the Poison Ship will spawn mechanoids as soon as it takes any form of damage. Placing an IED so that the ship is within the device's blast radius will also cause the mechanoids to spawn. One tactic for dealing with these threats is to surround the ship with IEDs at a distance of 5 blocks - just outside the blast zone. Then, use a long-range sniper to attack the ship and lure the mechanoids out into the traps.

== Legacy events ==

=== Tornado ===

For those still playing Beta 18, a tornado can occasionally cut a path of destruction across the map, damaging everything in its way.

It is capable of wreaking havoc on even well-prepared bases, making it dangerous to face across all stages of the game. However, mountain bases are spared the wrath of the tornado as it can't get through the layers of overhead mountain.

Obviously you need to get your colonists out of the way of the tornado. It is easily outpaced by healthy colonists. Incapacitated colonists lying in bed should be moved elsewhere before they are stricken.

{{nav/guides}}
[[Category:Guides]]

Hydroponics basin

2020-02-05T06:28:46Z

Mayoculpa:

<onlyinclude>
{{infobox main|production|
|name = Hydroponics basin
|image = HydroponicsTable.png|Hydroponics basin
|imagesize = 250px
|description = Grows plants quickly in an artificial nutrient bath. Requires power to work; plants will die if power is cut.
|type = Production
|type2 = Plants
|placeable = Yes
|size = 4|1
|power = -70
|hp = 180
|buy = {{icon|metal|100}} + {{icon|component|1}}
|sell = {{icon|metal|75}}
}}
</onlyinclude>

A '''hydroponics basin''' provides a highly fertile medium for growing [[food]] quickly. With the use of [[sun lamp]]s, it can also be used for growing crops indoors. Hydroponics basins provide a much more fertile environment than soil (280% fertility, equivalent to 2x rich soil) and any crops planted in them will grow much more quickly. Unlike most appliances, they do not short circuit in the rain. This means they can be used outdoors in biomes with a growing season.

Still, they do have some disadvantages. The first is that they need power to operate, without which the crops planted in the basin will rapidly die. Thus, [[Events#Solar Flare|solar flares]] will kill all hydroponic crops, though pawns can be ordered to harvest partially-grown crops before they wither, to prevent a total loss. [[Events#Breakdown|Breakdowns]] and [[Events#ZZZtt...|conduit explosions]] elsewhere in the power grid are also a concern, though crops can be saved if power is restored quickly enough. The other disadvantage is the limited selection of crops that can be grown hydroponically. Currently, only [[Potato plant|potatoes]], [[rice]], [[Strawberry plant|strawberries]], [[Cotton plant|cotton]], [[Hop plant|hops]], [[Smokeleaf plant|smokeleaf]], [[Psychoid plant|psychoid]], and [[healroot]] can be grown in hydroponics basins. When choosing a [[plant]] for the hydroponics basin, it should be considered that they have differing fertility sensitivity. Therefore, growing [[potatoes]] yields much less nutrition per day as growing [[rice]] does.

The basin provides only soil fertility. All other plant growth conditions must still be met. Plants require light during the day and need a temperature within their comfortable range. [[Sun lamp]]s are required if you're growing indoors as they are the only artificial lighting source that provides enough lighting for plant growth. [[Standing lamp]]s only provide 50% lighting, not enough for growth. Plants also need heat when it's cold and cooling when it's too hot. Just outside of their comfortable range, plants will not grow at 100%. Too far outside of that range, they will die.

To build basins, you first need to [[research]] Hydroponics at the [[research bench]].

Rice plants are the default crops to be grown in newly-built hydroponics basins.

== Placement ==

=== Sun lamp arrangement ===

It is possible to fit 24 hydroponics basins inside the "brightly lit" area of a sun lamp with the following configuration:

[[File:SunlampHydroponics.png]]

This Setup will use 4580W at day and 1680W at night, a [[Solar generator]] produces 1700W and a [[Geothermal generator]] 3600W,
so 2-4 Solar Generators (and a few [[Battery|Batteries]]) or one Geothermal generator are needed to power it.

If there is a roof over the hydroponics area, it may be wise to use the four empty tiles for roof support columns. This is not necessary if there are supports immediately outside the sun lamp's radius. These tiles could also be used for [[plant pot]]s or art to boost growers' mood.

=== Outdoors ===

Alternatively, you can opt to put all your hydroponics basins outdoors, using the natural light outside to grow plants. This negates the controlled temperature and light level advantage of indoor greenhouses but saves a great deal of power.

This method is very effective, for example, in an Extreme Desert which has a year-round growing season but not much available soil.

== Version history ==

Since Beta 19 it now requires components to build, and the default crop was changed to rice (from potatoes). It also received a remodel.

{{nav|production|wide}}
[[Category:Production]]
[[Category:Plants]]

Hydroponics basin

2020-02-04T21:35:49Z

Mayoculpa: /* Version history */

<onlyinclude>
{{infobox main|production|
|name = Hydroponics basin
|image = HydroponicsTable.png|Hydroponics basin
|imagesize = 250px
|description = Grows plants quickly in an artificial nutrient bath. Requires power to work; plants will die if power is cut.
|type = Production
|type2 = Plants
|placeable = Yes
|size = 4|1
|power = -70
|hp = 180
|buy = {{icon|metal|100}} + {{icon|component|1}}
|sell = {{icon|metal|75}}
}}
</onlyinclude>

A '''hydroponics basin''' provides a highly fertile medium for growing [[food]] quickly. With the use of [[sun lamp]]s, it can also be used for growing crops indoors. Hydroponics basins provide a much more fertile environment than soil (280% fertility, equivalent to 2x rich soil) and any crops planted in them will grow much more quickly.

Still, they do have some disadvantages. The first is that they need power to operate, without which the crops planted in the basin will rapidly die. Thus, [[Events#Solar Flare|solar flares]] will kill all hydroponic crops, though pawns can be ordered to harvest partially-grown crops before they wither, to prevent a total loss. [[Events#Breakdown|Breakdowns]] and [[Events#ZZZtt...|conduit explosions]] are also a concern, though crops can be saved if power is restored quickly enough. The other disadvantage is the limited selection of crops that can be grown hydroponically. Currently, only [[Potato plant|potatoes]], [[rice]], [[Strawberry plant|strawberries]], [[Cotton plant|cotton]], [[Hop plant|hops]], [[Smokeleaf plant|smokeleaf]], [[Psychoid plant|psychoid]], and [[healroot]] can be grown in hydroponics basins. When choosing a [[plant]] for the hydroponics basin, it should be considered that they have differing fertility sensitivity. Therefore, growing [[potatoes]] yields much less nutrition per day as growing [[rice]] does.

The basin provides only soil fertility. All other plant growth conditions must still be met. Plants require light during the day and need a temperature within their comfortable range. [[Sun lamp]]s are required if you're growing indoors as they are the only artificial lighting source that provides enough lighting for plant growth. [[Standing lamp]]s only provide 50% lighting, not enough for growth. Plants also need heat when it's cold and cooling when it's too hot. Just outside of their comfortable range, plants will not grow at 100%. Too far outside of that range, they will die.

To build basins, you first need to [[research]] Hydroponics at the [[research bench]].

Rice plants are the default crops to be grown in newly-built hydroponics basins.

== Placement ==

=== Sun lamp arrangement ===

It is possible to fit 24 hydroponics basins inside the "brightly lit" area of a sun lamp with the following configuration:

[[File:SunlampHydroponics.png]]

This Setup will use 4580W at day and 1680W at night, a [[Solar generator]] produces 1700W and a [[Geothermal generator]] 3600W,
so 2-4 Solar Generators (and a few [[Battery|Batteries]]) or one Geothermal generator are needed to power it.

If there is a roof over the hydroponics area, it may be wise to use the four empty tiles for roof support columns. This is not necessary if there are supports immediately outside the sun lamp's radius. These tiles could also be used for [[plant pot]]s or art to boost growers' mood.

=== Outdoors ===

Alternatively, you can opt to put all your hydroponics basins outdoors, using the natural light outside to grow plants. This negates the controlled temperature and light level advantage of indoor greenhouses but saves a great deal of power.

This method is very effective, for example, in an Extreme Desert which has a year-round growing season but not much available soil.

== Version history ==

Since Beta 19 it now requires components to build, and the default crop was changed to rice (from potatoes). It also received a remodel.

{{nav|production|wide}}
[[Category:Production]]
[[Category:Plants]]

Hydroponics basin

2020-02-04T20:46:52Z

Mayoculpa: /* Outdoors */

<onlyinclude>
{{infobox main|production|
|name = Hydroponics basin
|image = HydroponicsTable.png|Hydroponics basin
|imagesize = 250px
|description = Grows plants quickly in an artificial nutrient bath. Requires power to work; plants will die if power is cut.
|type = Production
|type2 = Plants
|placeable = Yes
|size = 4|1
|power = -70
|hp = 180
|buy = {{icon|metal|100}} + {{icon|component|1}}
|sell = {{icon|metal|75}}
}}
</onlyinclude>

A '''hydroponics basin''' provides a highly fertile medium for growing [[food]] quickly. With the use of [[sun lamp]]s, it can also be used for growing crops indoors. Hydroponics basins provide a much more fertile environment than soil (280% fertility, equivalent to 2x rich soil) and any crops planted in them will grow much more quickly.

Still, they do have some disadvantages. The first is that they need power to operate, without which the crops planted in the basin will rapidly die. Thus, [[Events#Solar Flare|solar flares]] will kill all hydroponic crops, though pawns can be ordered to harvest partially-grown crops before they wither, to prevent a total loss. [[Events#Breakdown|Breakdowns]] and [[Events#ZZZtt...|conduit explosions]] are also a concern, though crops can be saved if power is restored quickly enough. The other disadvantage is the limited selection of crops that can be grown hydroponically. Currently, only [[Potato plant|potatoes]], [[rice]], [[Strawberry plant|strawberries]], [[Cotton plant|cotton]], [[Hop plant|hops]], [[Smokeleaf plant|smokeleaf]], [[Psychoid plant|psychoid]], and [[healroot]] can be grown in hydroponics basins. When choosing a [[plant]] for the hydroponics basin, it should be considered that they have differing fertility sensitivity. Therefore, growing [[potatoes]] yields much less nutrition per day as growing [[rice]] does.

The basin provides only soil fertility. All other plant growth conditions must still be met. Plants require light during the day and need a temperature within their comfortable range. [[Sun lamp]]s are required if you're growing indoors as they are the only artificial lighting source that provides enough lighting for plant growth. [[Standing lamp]]s only provide 50% lighting, not enough for growth. Plants also need heat when it's cold and cooling when it's too hot. Just outside of their comfortable range, plants will not grow at 100%. Too far outside of that range, they will die.

To build basins, you first need to [[research]] Hydroponics at the [[research bench]].

Rice plants are the default crops to be grown in newly-built hydroponics basins.

== Placement ==

=== Sun lamp arrangement ===

It is possible to fit 24 hydroponics basins inside the "brightly lit" area of a sun lamp with the following configuration:

[[File:SunlampHydroponics.png]]

This Setup will use 4580W at day and 1680W at night, a [[Solar generator]] produces 1700W and a [[Geothermal generator]] 3600W,
so 2-4 Solar Generators (and a few [[Battery|Batteries]]) or one Geothermal generator are needed to power it.

If there is a roof over the hydroponics area, it may be wise to use the four empty tiles for roof support columns. This is not necessary if there are supports immediately outside the sun lamp's radius. These tiles could also be used for [[plant pot]]s or art to boost growers' mood.

=== Outdoors ===

Alternatively, you can opt to put all your hydroponics basins outdoors, using the natural light outside to grow plants. This negates the controlled temperature and light level advantage of indoor greenhouses but saves a great deal of power.

This method is very effective, for example, in an Extreme Desert which has a year-round growing season but not much available soil.

== Version history ==

In Beta 19 it now requires components to build, and the default crop is changed to rice (from potatoes). It also received a remodel.

{{nav|production|wide}}
[[Category:Production]]
[[Category:Plants]]

Hydroponics basin

2020-02-04T20:39:04Z

Mayoculpa: Undo revision 67580 by Mayoculpa (talk) testing is needed

<onlyinclude>
{{infobox main|production|
|name = Hydroponics basin
|image = HydroponicsTable.png|Hydroponics basin
|imagesize = 250px
|description = Grows plants quickly in an artificial nutrient bath. Requires power to work; plants will die if power is cut.
|type = Production
|type2 = Plants
|placeable = Yes
|size = 4|1
|power = -70
|hp = 180
|buy = {{icon|metal|100}} + {{icon|component|1}}
|sell = {{icon|metal|75}}
}}
</onlyinclude>

A '''hydroponics basin''' provides a highly fertile medium for growing [[food]] quickly. With the use of [[sun lamp]]s, it can also be used for growing crops indoors. Hydroponics basins provide a much more fertile environment than soil (280% fertility, equivalent to 2x rich soil) and any crops planted in them will grow much more quickly.

Still, they do have some disadvantages. The first is that they need power to operate, without which the crops planted in the basin will rapidly die. Thus, [[Events#Solar Flare|solar flares]] will kill all hydroponic crops, though pawns can be ordered to harvest partially-grown crops before they wither, to prevent a total loss. [[Events#Breakdown|Breakdowns]] and [[Events#ZZZtt...|conduit explosions]] are also a concern, though crops can be saved if power is restored quickly enough. The other disadvantage is the limited selection of crops that can be grown hydroponically. Currently, only [[Potato plant|potatoes]], [[rice]], [[Strawberry plant|strawberries]], [[Cotton plant|cotton]], [[Hop plant|hops]], [[Smokeleaf plant|smokeleaf]], [[Psychoid plant|psychoid]], and [[healroot]] can be grown in hydroponics basins. When choosing a [[plant]] for the hydroponics basin, it should be considered that they have differing fertility sensitivity. Therefore, growing [[potatoes]] yields much less nutrition per day as growing [[rice]] does.

The basin provides only soil fertility. All other plant growth conditions must still be met. Plants require light during the day and need a temperature within their comfortable range. [[Sun lamp]]s are required if you're growing indoors as they are the only artificial lighting source that provides enough lighting for plant growth. [[Standing lamp]]s only provide 50% lighting, not enough for growth. Plants also need heat when it's cold and cooling when it's too hot. Just outside of their comfortable range, plants will not grow at 100%. Too far outside of that range, they will die.

To build basins, you first need to [[research]] Hydroponics at the [[research bench]].

Rice plants are the default crops to be grown in newly-built hydroponics basins.

== Placement ==

=== Sun lamp arrangement ===

It is possible to fit 24 hydroponics basins inside the "brightly lit" area of a sun lamp with the following configuration:

[[File:SunlampHydroponics.png]]

This Setup will use 4580W at day and 1680W at night, a [[Solar generator]] produces 1700W and a [[Geothermal generator]] 3600W,
so 2-4 Solar Generators (and a few [[Battery|Batteries]]) or one Geothermal generator are needed to power it.

If there is a roof over the hydroponics area, it may be wise to use the four empty tiles for roof support columns. This is not necessary if there are supports immediately outside the sun lamp's radius. These tiles could also be used for [[plant pot]]s or art to boost growers' mood.

=== Outdoors ===

Alternatively, you can opt to put all your hydroponics basins outdoors, using the natural light outside to grow plants. This negates the controlled temperature and light level advantage of indoor greenhouses but saves a great deal of power.

This method is most effective in Extreme Deserts, in which rain is incredibly rare and there is not much available soil.

== Version history ==

In Beta 19 it now requires components to build, and the default crop is changed to rice (from potatoes). It also received a remodel.

{{nav|production|wide}}
[[Category:Production]]
[[Category:Plants]]

Hydroponics basin

2020-02-04T20:16:04Z

Mayoculpa: /* Outdoors */

<onlyinclude>
{{infobox main|production|
|name = Hydroponics basin
|image = HydroponicsTable.png|Hydroponics basin
|imagesize = 250px
|description = Grows plants quickly in an artificial nutrient bath. Requires power to work; plants will die if power is cut.
|type = Production
|type2 = Plants
|placeable = Yes
|size = 4|1
|power = -70
|hp = 180
|buy = {{icon|metal|100}} + {{icon|component|1}}
|sell = {{icon|metal|75}}
}}
</onlyinclude>

A '''hydroponics basin''' provides a highly fertile medium for growing [[food]] quickly. With the use of [[sun lamp]]s, it can also be used for growing crops indoors. Hydroponics basins provide a much more fertile environment than soil (280% fertility, equivalent to 2x rich soil) and any crops planted in them will grow much more quickly.

Still, they do have some disadvantages. The first is that they need power to operate, without which the crops planted in the basin will rapidly die. Thus, [[Events#Solar Flare|solar flares]] will kill all hydroponic crops, though pawns can be ordered to harvest partially-grown crops before they wither, to prevent a total loss. [[Events#Breakdown|Breakdowns]] and [[Events#ZZZtt...|conduit explosions]] are also a concern, though crops can be saved if power is restored quickly enough. The other disadvantage is the limited selection of crops that can be grown hydroponically. Currently, only [[Potato plant|potatoes]], [[rice]], [[Strawberry plant|strawberries]], [[Cotton plant|cotton]], [[Hop plant|hops]], [[Smokeleaf plant|smokeleaf]], [[Psychoid plant|psychoid]], and [[healroot]] can be grown in hydroponics basins. When choosing a [[plant]] for the hydroponics basin, it should be considered that they have differing fertility sensitivity. Therefore, growing [[potatoes]] yields much less nutrition per day as growing [[rice]] does.

The basin provides only soil fertility. All other plant growth conditions must still be met. Plants require light during the day and need a temperature within their comfortable range. [[Sun lamp]]s are required if you're growing indoors as they are the only artificial lighting source that provides enough lighting for plant growth. [[Standing lamp]]s only provide 50% lighting, not enough for growth. Plants also need heat when it's cold and cooling when it's too hot. Just outside of their comfortable range, plants will not grow at 100%. Too far outside of that range, they will die.

To build basins, you first need to [[research]] Hydroponics at the [[research bench]].

Rice plants are the default crops to be grown in newly-built hydroponics basins.

== Placement ==

=== Sun lamp arrangement ===

It is possible to fit 24 hydroponics basins inside the "brightly lit" area of a sun lamp with the following configuration:

[[File:SunlampHydroponics.png]]

This Setup will use 4580W at day and 1680W at night, a [[Solar generator]] produces 1700W and a [[Geothermal generator]] 3600W,
so 2-4 Solar Generators (and a few [[Battery|Batteries]]) or one Geothermal generator are needed to power it.

If there is a roof over the hydroponics area, it may be wise to use the four empty tiles for roof support columns. This is not necessary if there are supports immediately outside the sun lamp's radius. These tiles could also be used for [[plant pot]]s or art to boost growers' mood.

=== Outdoors ===

Alternatively, you can opt to put all your hydroponics basins outdoors, using the natural light outside to grow plants. This negates the controlled temperature and light level advantage of indoor greenhouses but saves a great deal of power.

This method is most effective in Extreme Deserts, in which rain is incredibly rare and there is not much available soil. Like other electronics, hydroponics basins will [[Events#Zzztt...|short circuit]] if they get wet from rain or snow.

== Version history ==

In Beta 19 it now requires components to build, and the default crop is changed to rice (from potatoes). It also received a remodel.

{{nav|production|wide}}
[[Category:Production]]
[[Category:Plants]]

Hydroponics basin

2020-02-04T19:47:39Z

Mayoculpa: /* Sun lamp arrangement */

<onlyinclude>
{{infobox main|production|
|name = Hydroponics basin
|image = HydroponicsTable.png|Hydroponics basin
|imagesize = 250px
|description = Grows plants quickly in an artificial nutrient bath. Requires power to work; plants will die if power is cut.
|type = Production
|type2 = Plants
|placeable = Yes
|size = 4|1
|power = -70
|hp = 180
|buy = {{icon|metal|100}} + {{icon|component|1}}
|sell = {{icon|metal|75}}
}}
</onlyinclude>

A '''hydroponics basin''' provides a highly fertile medium for growing [[food]] quickly. With the use of [[sun lamp]]s, it can also be used for growing crops indoors. Hydroponics basins provide a much more fertile environment than soil (280% fertility, equivalent to 2x rich soil) and any crops planted in them will grow much more quickly.

Still, they do have some disadvantages. The first is that they need power to operate, without which the crops planted in the basin will rapidly die. Thus, [[Events#Solar Flare|solar flares]] will kill all hydroponic crops, though pawns can be ordered to harvest partially-grown crops before they wither, to prevent a total loss. [[Events#Breakdown|Breakdowns]] and [[Events#ZZZtt...|conduit explosions]] are also a concern, though crops can be saved if power is restored quickly enough. The other disadvantage is the limited selection of crops that can be grown hydroponically. Currently, only [[Potato plant|potatoes]], [[rice]], [[Strawberry plant|strawberries]], [[Cotton plant|cotton]], [[Hop plant|hops]], [[Smokeleaf plant|smokeleaf]], [[Psychoid plant|psychoid]], and [[healroot]] can be grown in hydroponics basins. When choosing a [[plant]] for the hydroponics basin, it should be considered that they have differing fertility sensitivity. Therefore, growing [[potatoes]] yields much less nutrition per day as growing [[rice]] does.

The basin provides only soil fertility. All other plant growth conditions must still be met. Plants require light during the day and need a temperature within their comfortable range. [[Sun lamp]]s are required if you're growing indoors as they are the only artificial lighting source that provides enough lighting for plant growth. [[Standing lamp]]s only provide 50% lighting, not enough for growth. Plants also need heat when it's cold and cooling when it's too hot. Just outside of their comfortable range, plants will not grow at 100%. Too far outside of that range, they will die.

To build basins, you first need to [[research]] Hydroponics at the [[research bench]].

Rice plants are the default crops to be grown in newly-built hydroponics basins.

== Placement ==

=== Sun lamp arrangement ===

It is possible to fit 24 hydroponics basins inside the "brightly lit" area of a sun lamp with the following configuration:

[[File:SunlampHydroponics.png]]

This Setup will use 4580W at day and 1680W at night, a [[Solar generator]] produces 1700W and a [[Geothermal generator]] 3600W,
so 2-4 Solar Generators (and a few [[Battery|Batteries]]) or one Geothermal generator are needed to power it.

If there is a roof over the hydroponics area, it may be wise to use the four empty tiles for roof support columns. This is not necessary if there are supports immediately outside the sun lamp's radius. These tiles could also be used for [[plant pot]]s or art to boost growers' mood.

=== Outdoors ===

Alternatively, you can opt to put all your hydroponics basins outdoors, using the natural light outside to grow plants. This negates the controlled temperature and light level advantage of indoor greenhouses but saves a great deal of power.

This method is most effective in Extreme Deserts, in which rain is incredibly rare and there is not much available soil.

== Version history ==

In Beta 19 it now requires components to build, and the default crop is changed to rice (from potatoes). It also received a remodel.

{{nav|production|wide}}
[[Category:Production]]
[[Category:Plants]]

Hydroponics basin

2020-02-04T19:45:16Z

Mayoculpa: /* Outdoors */

<onlyinclude>
{{infobox main|production|
|name = Hydroponics basin
|image = HydroponicsTable.png|Hydroponics basin
|imagesize = 250px
|description = Grows plants quickly in an artificial nutrient bath. Requires power to work; plants will die if power is cut.
|type = Production
|type2 = Plants
|placeable = Yes
|size = 4|1
|power = -70
|hp = 180
|buy = {{icon|metal|100}} + {{icon|component|1}}
|sell = {{icon|metal|75}}
}}
</onlyinclude>

A '''hydroponics basin''' provides a highly fertile medium for growing [[food]] quickly. With the use of [[sun lamp]]s, it can also be used for growing crops indoors. Hydroponics basins provide a much more fertile environment than soil (280% fertility, equivalent to 2x rich soil) and any crops planted in them will grow much more quickly.

Still, they do have some disadvantages. The first is that they need power to operate, without which the crops planted in the basin will rapidly die. Thus, [[Events#Solar Flare|solar flares]] will kill all hydroponic crops, though pawns can be ordered to harvest partially-grown crops before they wither, to prevent a total loss. [[Events#Breakdown|Breakdowns]] and [[Events#ZZZtt...|conduit explosions]] are also a concern, though crops can be saved if power is restored quickly enough. The other disadvantage is the limited selection of crops that can be grown hydroponically. Currently, only [[Potato plant|potatoes]], [[rice]], [[Strawberry plant|strawberries]], [[Cotton plant|cotton]], [[Hop plant|hops]], [[Smokeleaf plant|smokeleaf]], [[Psychoid plant|psychoid]], and [[healroot]] can be grown in hydroponics basins. When choosing a [[plant]] for the hydroponics basin, it should be considered that they have differing fertility sensitivity. Therefore, growing [[potatoes]] yields much less nutrition per day as growing [[rice]] does.

The basin provides only soil fertility. All other plant growth conditions must still be met. Plants require light during the day and need a temperature within their comfortable range. [[Sun lamp]]s are required if you're growing indoors as they are the only artificial lighting source that provides enough lighting for plant growth. [[Standing lamp]]s only provide 50% lighting, not enough for growth. Plants also need heat when it's cold and cooling when it's too hot. Just outside of their comfortable range, plants will not grow at 100%. Too far outside of that range, they will die.

To build basins, you first need to [[research]] Hydroponics at the [[research bench]].

Rice plants are the default crops to be grown in newly-built hydroponics basins.

== Placement ==

=== Sun lamp arrangement ===

It is possible to fit 24 hydroponics basins inside the "brightly lit" area of a sun lamp with the following configuration:

[[File:SunlampHydroponics.png]]

This Setup will use 4580W at day and 1680W at night, a [[Solar generator]] produces 1700W and a [[Geothermal generator]] 3600W,
so 2-4 Solar Generators (and a few [[Battery|Batteries]]) or one Geothermal generator are needed to power it.

If there is a roof over the hydroponics area, it may be wise to use the four empty tiles for roof support columns. This is not necessary if there are supports immediately outside the sun lamp's radius.

=== Outdoors ===

Alternatively, you can opt to put all your hydroponics basins outdoors, using the natural light outside to grow plants. This negates the controlled temperature and light level advantage of indoor greenhouses but saves a great deal of power.

This method is most effective in Extreme Deserts, in which rain is incredibly rare and there is not much available soil.

== Version history ==

In Beta 19 it now requires components to build, and the default crop is changed to rice (from potatoes). It also received a remodel.

{{nav|production|wide}}
[[Category:Production]]
[[Category:Plants]]

Sun lamp

2020-02-04T19:42:28Z

Mayoculpa: /* Greenhouses */

<onlyinclude>
{{infobox main|furniture|
|name = Sun lamp
|image = LampSun.png|Sun lamp
|description = Lights an area brightly enough to grow crops.
|type = Furniture
|type2 =
|placeable = Yes
|size = 1|1
|hp = 50
|power = - 2900
|buy = {{icon|metal|25}}
|sell = {{icon|metal|10}}
|mass base = 4.5
}}
</onlyinclude>
Sun lamps provide artificial light to roofed growing zones (greenhouses) at high power expense (2,900 watts). A sun lamp will illuminate tiles within a five-block radius at 100% and outside tiles at only 50% or less. Sun lamps automatically turn themselves off at night to save power while the plants are resting. Once installed, the lamp menu offers the option to create a growing zone that matches its radius. Sun lamps become available after [[research]]ing Electricity.

=== Short circuits ===
Rain on a powered sun lamp will cause short circuits and fires. A roof will prevent this.

If the area is unroofed, you can simply switch the sun lamp off. In biomes with a growing season, turning off the sunlamp and removing the the roof can help save power when the weather is warm.

== Greenhouses ==
Sun lamps allow indoor growing but don't produce heat, so [[heater]]s may be required to attain proper conditions for plant growth. [[Events#Solar flare|Solar flares]] will cut the power, so prepare a [[shelf]] with emergency wood to build [[campfire]]s to keep the room temperature above -10C/14F. Double-width walls provide more insulation against temperature changes (and thus save power on [[heater]]s or [[cooler]]s), as well as offering better protection from attacks.

Sun lamps placed on dirt can let your colony produce things like corn or smokeleaf even during a toxic fallout, or in a cold biome with no growing season. If you maintain proper growing temperature, a dirt floor greenhouse will have 100% fertility on normal soil and 140% on fertile soil. Trees such as pine, birch, saguaro or cocoa trees cannot be grown in a greenhouse because they can't be planted under a roof.

[[Hydroponics basin]]s boost plant growth to 280% speed and do not require soil. However, they can only grow certain crops and are dependent on electricity. If a hydroponics basin loses power, all plants on it will die quickly. The configuration in the image below will fit 24 hydroponics basins under a single sunlamp.

[[File:SunlampHydroponics.png|frameless]]

If you have [[Biofuel_refinery|biofuel refining]] researched, you can use food produced by hydroponics to fuel chemfuel generators to help power the greenhouse array. This is so efficient that it violates thermodynamics, and leaves you with spare food for your colonists as well.

In 1.0 you need to place the sun lamp's growing zone manually. It can be made as a plus sign (+) in which each line is 5 tiles wide by 11 tiles long, with a 9 by 9 square in the middle. You can use the Planning tool to map this zone before placing your sun lamp.

The lamp blueprint will show the outline of its light radius until it is placed. Once the blueprint has been placed, the light radius won't be visible again until the lamp has been built.

=== Legacy controls ===

In previous versions of the game, the sun lamp menu allowed you to automatically create a growing zone within its light radius.

[[File:Sun lamp H.png|500px]]

{{nav|furniture|wide}}
[[Category:Furniture]]
[[Category:Food]]

Bill

2020-02-04T18:12:53Z

Mayoculpa: /* Details */

__NOTOC__
{{Image wanted}}
A '''bill''' is used to:
* request work to be done at a [[Production|workstation]]
* request an [[Doctoring#surgery|operation]] on a pawn

==Bill management==
Bills at workstations and on pawns can be managed with the following general commands:
* Delete a bill: Click the red X.
* Suspend or resume a bill: Click the yellow S.
* Change the order of bills: Click the yellow up or down triangles.

[[File:Work bill simple meals.jpg|400px|thumb|right|The bill at the top ensures fine meals will be cooked first. The simple meal bill in the middle, as shown in its detail window, does not allow vegetables. If there is no meat available, the third bill does allow vegetables.]]
Notes:
* Bills are worked in top-down order. Bills missing an ingredient will be skipped. Once a bill is satisfied, the next one will be worked.
* Hovering over a bill with a restricted ingredient radius will outline the limited area (if small enough to see on screen).

----
===Bills at workstations===

[[File:Bills.png|400px|thumb|right|Assorted bills on a [[machining table]].]]

Besides general commands, bills at workstations have these additional commands:
* Change the quantity or repetitions: Click -/+
* Change the mode: Choose 'Do X times', 'Do until you have X', 'Do forever'.

====Modes====
* 'Do X times'   (The remaining repetitions is shown to the left.)
* 'Do until you have X'   (The quantity you currently have and have requested is shown to the left.)
** This mode has an option to 'Pause when satisfied' which pauses the bill when the set quantity is reached. (Items not in a stockpile are not counted.)
** 'Unpause at: x' will automatically resume a paused bill when the quantity drops to that number.
** These settings allow you to keep from having too much or too little of a given product, with little or no further management.
* 'Do forever'
** Work will only stop when there are no materials left.
** Useful for bills such as 'Butcher creature,' 'Disassemble mechanoid' or 'Burn (tainted) apparel.'

====Details====
Click [Details] to change the bill's default configuration.
* Set location to take completed product: 'Take to best stockpile' or 'Drop on floor'
** 'Take to best stockpile' is ideal when your goal is to produce a certain amount of items and make sure they are all counted.
** 'Drop on floor' saves a great deal of time for everyday production, so pawn spends more of their time working instead of walking back and forth.
* Set ingredient radius: Sets the maximum distance at which pawns will get ingredients.
* Allowed skill: Sets the minimum and maximum skill level, usually to prevent pawns with low skills from making poor products.
* Hit points: Sets the minimum and maximum percentage hit points for ingredients.
* Ingredients: Sets which resources can be used on this bill.

----

===Bills on pawns===
Besides general commands, bills on pawns have these additional commands:
* To add a bill to a living creature click Health, Operations, Add Bill.
** Note: this only applies to colonists, pets, prisoners, downed friendlies, and downed animals.
* To add a bill to a downed mechanoid, click Health, Modifications, Add Bill.

Notes:
*Certain body parts can be harvested and sold or transplanted to another pawn. However, damaged body parts cannot be harvested.
* Any bill for an operation requires medicine. By default, the best allowed medicine (see Health|Overview) for animals and non-colonists is herbal medicine. If the appropriate medicine for that pawn is not in stock, doctors cannot carry out prescribed bills. Attempting to prioritize the operation will state 'Cannot operate (need material)'. Either ensure the right medicine is in stock or adjust the pawn's allowed medicine.

[[Category:Game mechanics]]

Bill

2020-02-04T18:09:12Z

Mayoculpa: /* Bill management */

__NOTOC__
{{Image wanted}}
A '''bill''' is used to:
* request work to be done at a [[Production|workstation]]
* request an [[Doctoring#surgery|operation]] on a pawn

==Bill management==
Bills at workstations and on pawns can be managed with the following general commands:
* Delete a bill: Click the red X.
* Suspend or resume a bill: Click the yellow S.
* Change the order of bills: Click the yellow up or down triangles.

[[File:Work bill simple meals.jpg|400px|thumb|right|The bill at the top ensures fine meals will be cooked first. The simple meal bill in the middle, as shown in its detail window, does not allow vegetables. If there is no meat available, the third bill does allow vegetables.]]
Notes:
* Bills are worked in top-down order. Bills missing an ingredient will be skipped. Once a bill is satisfied, the next one will be worked.
* Hovering over a bill with a restricted ingredient radius will outline the limited area (if small enough to see on screen).

----
===Bills at workstations===

[[File:Bills.png|400px|thumb|right|Assorted bills on a [[machining table]].]]

Besides general commands, bills at workstations have these additional commands:
* Change the quantity or repetitions: Click -/+
* Change the mode: Choose 'Do X times', 'Do until you have X', 'Do forever'.

====Modes====
* 'Do X times'   (The remaining repetitions is shown to the left.)
* 'Do until you have X'   (The quantity you currently have and have requested is shown to the left.)
** This mode has an option to 'Pause when satisfied' which pauses the bill when the set quantity is reached. (Items not in a stockpile are not counted.)
** 'Unpause at: x' will automatically resume a paused bill when the quantity drops to that number.
** These settings allow you to keep from having too much or too little of a given product, with little or no further management.
* 'Do forever'
** Work will only stop when there are no materials left.
** Useful for bills such as 'Butcher creature,' 'Disassemble mechanoid' or 'Burn (tainted) apparel.'

====Details====
Click [Details] to change the bill's default configuration.
* Set location to take completed product: 'Take to best stockpile' or 'Drop on floor'
* Set ingredient radius: Sets the maximum distance at which pawns will get ingredients.
* Allowed skill: Sets the minimum and maximum skill level, usually to prevent pawns with low skills from making poor products.
* Hit points: Sets the minimum and maximum percentage hit points for ingredients.
* Ingredients: Sets which resources can be used on this bill.

----
===Bills on pawns===
Besides general commands, bills on pawns have these additional commands:
* To add a bill to a living creature click Health, Operations, Add Bill.
** Note: this only applies to colonists, pets, prisoners, downed friendlies, and downed animals.
* To add a bill to a downed mechanoid, click Health, Modifications, Add Bill.

Notes:
*Certain body parts can be harvested and sold or transplanted to another pawn. However, damaged body parts cannot be harvested.
* Any bill for an operation requires medicine. By default, the best allowed medicine (see Health|Overview) for animals and non-colonists is herbal medicine. If the appropriate medicine for that pawn is not in stock, doctors cannot carry out prescribed bills. Attempting to prioritize the operation will state 'Cannot operate (need material)'. Either ensure the right medicine is in stock or adjust the pawn's allowed medicine.

[[Category:Game mechanics]]

File:Work bill simple meals.jpg

2020-02-04T17:58:10Z

Mayoculpa: Rich explorer Lamb has very low cooking skill. If Lamb's skill increases or if she recruits another colonist with Cooking 6, the bill at the top ensures fine meals will be cooked first. The simple meal bill in the middle, as shown in its detail window, is set to only use perishable meat ingredients. If there is no meat available, the third bill will allow her to make simple meals from vegetables.

== Summary ==
Rich explorer Lamb has very low cooking skill. If Lamb's skill increases or if she recruits another colonist with Cooking 6, the bill at the top ensures fine meals will be cooked first.

The simple meal bill in the middle, as shown in its detail window, is set to only use perishable meat ingredients. If there is no meat available, the third bill will allow her to make simple meals from vegetables.

Sun lamp

2020-02-04T17:30:00Z

Mayoculpa: /* Short circuits */

<onlyinclude>
{{infobox main|furniture|
|name = Sun lamp
|image = LampSun.png|Sun lamp
|description = Lights an area brightly enough to grow crops.
|type = Furniture
|type2 =
|placeable = Yes
|size = 1|1
|hp = 50
|power = - 2900
|buy = {{icon|metal|25}}
|sell = {{icon|metal|10}}
|mass base = 4.5
}}
</onlyinclude>
Sun lamps provide artificial light to roofed growing zones (greenhouses) at high power expense (2,900 watts). A sun lamp will illuminate tiles within a five-block radius at 100% and outside tiles at only 50% or less. Sun lamps automatically turn themselves off at night to save power while the plants are resting. Once installed, the lamp menu offers the option to create a growing zone that matches its radius. Sun lamps become available after [[research]]ing Electricity.

=== Short circuits ===
Rain on a powered sun lamp will cause short circuits and fires. A roof will prevent this.

If the area is unroofed, you can simply switch the sun lamp off. In biomes with a growing season, turning off the sunlamp and removing the the roof can help save power when the weather is warm.

== Greenhouses ==
Sun lamps allow indoor growing but don't produce heat, so [[heater]]s may be required to attain proper conditions for plant growth. [[Events#Solar flare|Solar flares]] will cut the power, so prepare a [[shelf]] with emergency wood to build [[campfire]]s to keep the room temperature above -10C/14F. Double-width walls provide more insulation against temperature changes (and thus save power on [[heater]]s or [[cooler]]s), as well as offering better protection from attacks.

Sun lamps placed on dirt can let your colony produce things like corn or smokeleaf even during a toxic fallout, or in a cold biome with no growing season. If you maintain proper growing temperature, a dirt floor greenhouse will have 100% fertility on normal soil and 140% on fertile soil. Trees such as pine, birch, saguaro or cocoa trees cannot be grown in a greenhouse because they can't be planted under a roof.

[[Hydroponics basin]]s boost plant growth to 240% speed and do not require soil. However, they can only grow certain crops and are dependent on electricity. If a hydroponics basin loses power, all plants on it will die quickly. The configuration in the image below will fit 24 hydroponics basins under a single sunlamp.

[[File:SunlampHydroponics.png|frameless]]

If you have [[Biofuel_refinery|biofuel refining]] researched, you can use food produced by hydroponics to fuel chemfuel generators to help power the greenhouse array. This is so efficient that it violates thermodynamics, and leaves you with spare food for your colonists as well.

In 1.0 you need to place the sun lamp's growing zone manually. It can be made as a plus sign (+) in which each line is 5 tiles wide by 11 tiles long, with a 9 by 9 square in the middle. You can use the Planning tool to map this zone before placing your sun lamp.

The lamp blueprint will show the outline of its light radius until it is placed. Once the blueprint has been placed, the light radius won't be visible again until the lamp has been built.

=== Legacy controls ===

In previous versions of the game, the sun lamp menu allowed you to automatically create a growing zone within its light radius.

[[File:Sun lamp H.png|500px]]

{{nav|furniture|wide}}
[[Category:Furniture]]
[[Category:Food]]

Sun lamp

2020-02-04T17:27:09Z

Mayoculpa: /* Greenhouses */

<onlyinclude>
{{infobox main|furniture|
|name = Sun lamp
|image = LampSun.png|Sun lamp
|description = Lights an area brightly enough to grow crops.
|type = Furniture
|type2 =
|placeable = Yes
|size = 1|1
|hp = 50
|power = - 2900
|buy = {{icon|metal|25}}
|sell = {{icon|metal|10}}
|mass base = 4.5
}}
</onlyinclude>
Sun lamps provide artificial light to roofed growing zones (greenhouses) at high power expense (2,900 watts). A sun lamp will illuminate tiles within a five-block radius at 100% and outside tiles at only 50% or less. Sun lamps automatically turn themselves off at night to save power while the plants are resting. Once installed, the lamp menu offers the option to create a growing zone that matches its radius. Sun lamps become available after [[research]]ing Electricity.

=== Short circuits ===
Rain on a powered sun lamp will cause short circuits and fires. A roof will prevent this.

If the area is unroofed, you can simply switch the sun lamp off.

== Greenhouses ==
Sun lamps allow indoor growing but don't produce heat, so [[heater]]s may be required to attain proper conditions for plant growth. [[Events#Solar flare|Solar flares]] will cut the power, so prepare a [[shelf]] with emergency wood to build [[campfire]]s to keep the room temperature above -10C/14F. Double-width walls provide more insulation against temperature changes (and thus save power on [[heater]]s or [[cooler]]s), as well as offering better protection from attacks.

Sun lamps placed on dirt can let your colony produce things like corn or smokeleaf even during a toxic fallout, or in a cold biome with no growing season. If you maintain proper growing temperature, a dirt floor greenhouse will have 100% fertility on normal soil and 140% on fertile soil. Trees such as pine, birch, saguaro or cocoa trees cannot be grown in a greenhouse because they can't be planted under a roof.

[[Hydroponics basin]]s boost plant growth to 240% speed and do not require soil. However, they can only grow certain crops and are dependent on electricity. If a hydroponics basin loses power, all plants on it will die quickly. The configuration in the image below will fit 24 hydroponics basins under a single sunlamp.

[[File:SunlampHydroponics.png|frameless]]

If you have [[Biofuel_refinery|biofuel refining]] researched, you can use food produced by hydroponics to fuel chemfuel generators to help power the greenhouse array. This is so efficient that it violates thermodynamics, and leaves you with spare food for your colonists as well.

In 1.0 you need to place the sun lamp's growing zone manually. It can be made as a plus sign (+) in which each line is 5 tiles wide by 11 tiles long, with a 9 by 9 square in the middle. You can use the Planning tool to map this zone before placing your sun lamp.

The lamp blueprint will show the outline of its light radius until it is placed. Once the blueprint has been placed, the light radius won't be visible again until the lamp has been built.

=== Legacy controls ===

In previous versions of the game, the sun lamp menu allowed you to automatically create a growing zone within its light radius.

[[File:Sun lamp H.png|500px]]

{{nav|furniture|wide}}
[[Category:Furniture]]
[[Category:Food]]

Sun lamp

2020-02-04T16:21:28Z

Mayoculpa: /* Greenhouses */

Research

2020-02-03T21:03:14Z

Mayoculpa: /* Research Projects */

{| align=center
| {{Menus_Nav}}
|}
----


'''Research''' is the primary method through which players can enhance and expand the abilities of their colony. Certain [[buildings]] require research in order to be built.

Once a player constructs a [[research bench]], and selects a project from the list of available research topics, a [[Menus#Research|researcher]] will work at the bench to generate research points. The rate at which points are generated depends on the researcher's skill level. Multiple research benches worked by researchers will further increase the speed at which points are generated.

Only one research project can be actively researched at a given time, regardless of the number of research facilities available. However, you can freely switch between research projects, even if another is already underway. The progress towards finishing the research project is retained.

Research difficulty is related to your faction's tech level. Researching techs above your level is harder. So if you're a tribe, researching electricity will be difficult, while industrial colonies will find mastering spaceflight harder.

Research is presented in a tech tree form, with earlier research placed to the left and later research more dependent on the earlier ones placed on the right. Mods can add their own research projects; they can be manually placed, or automatically placed if not specified. Projects will be moved apart if they overlap.

Besides the main research tab, modders can add separate research tabs for their research projects, so any new research projects appear there instead.

==Research Projects==

'''Neolithic and Medieval Research Projects'''
{| {{STDT| sortable c_07 text-center}}
! Name
! Description
! Tech level
! Base cost
! Industrial start cost
! Tribal start cost
! Required Research
! Required Research Bench & Addon

|- id="Psychoid-brewing"
! Psychoid brewing
| With preparation, [[psychoid leaves]] can be boiled in water, producing a mildly euphoric and addictive [[psychoid pekoe|tea]]. (Research needed only for non-tribal starts)
| Neolithic
| 500
| 500
| 500
| None
| Simple

|- id="Tree-sowing"
! Tree sowing
| Sow the local biome's natural [[trees]] in your fields. (Research needed only for non-tribal starts)
| Neolithic
| 1000
| 1000
| 1000
| None
| Simple

|- id="Beer-brewing"
! Beer brewing
| Allows you to build a [[brewery]] to transform [[hops]] into tasty, tasty [[beer]].
| Neolithic
| 400
| 400
| 400
| None
| Simple

|- id="Complex-furniture"
! Complex Furniture
| Build complex [[furniture]] like beds, end tables, dining chairs, armchairs, dressers, tool cabinets, billiard tables, and poker tables, vents, sarcophagi, and more.
| Medieval
| 300
| 300
| 450
| None
| Simple

|- id="Passive-cooler"
! Passive cooler
| Make [[passive cooler|passive coolers]], a way to [[Temperature|cool]] indoor spaces without using [[Power|electricity]]. (Research needed only for non-tribal starts)
| Neolithic
| 400
| 400
| 400
| None
| Simple

|- id="Stonecutting"
! Stonecutting
| Cut rock chunks into [[Materials#Stone|stone blocks]] for use in construction. Build beautiful stone tile [[floors]] or ugly concrete walkways.
| Medieval
| 300
| 300
| 450
| None
| Simple

|- id="Complex-clothing"
! Complex clothing
| Tailor complicated [[Clothing|garments]] like pants, dusters, and cowboy hats. (Research needed only for tribal starts)
| Medieval
| 600
| 600
| 900
| None
| Simple

|- id="Cocoa"
! Cocoa
| Sow [[Cocoa tree|cocoa trees]] to create your own delicious [[chocolate]]. Eating chocolate fulfills the need for [[recreation]], and it's valuable on the market too.
| Neolithic
| 1000
| 1000
| 1000
| Tree-sowing
| Simple

|- id="Devilstrand"
! Devilstrand
| Plant [[Devilstrand mushroom|devilstrand]], a slow-growing mushroom that yields an exceptionally tough, tear resistant plant fiber.
| Neolithic
| 800
| 800
| 800
| None
| Simple

|- id="Carpet-making"
! Carpet making
| Weave beautiful [[carpets]] from cloth.
| Medieval
| 800
| 800
| 1200
| None
| Simple

|- id="Pemmican"
! Pemmican
| Make [[pemmican]], a preserved mixture of meat and plant matter that doesn't go bad for a long time. Great for traveling. (Research needed only for non-tribal starts)
| Neolithic
| 500
| 500
| 500
| None
| Simple

|- id="Smithing"
! Smithing
| Build [[Electric smithy|smithies]] for crafting metal weapons and tools. Allows you to craft simple weapons like [[knife|knives]], [[gladius|gladii]], and [[mace]]s.
| Medieval
| 700
| 700
| 1050
| None
| Simple

|- id="Recurve-bows"
! Recurve bows
| Build the [[recurve bow]], an effective and inexpensive ranged weapon. (Research needed only for non-tribal starts)
| Neolithic
| 400
| 400
| 400
| None
| Simple

|- id="Long-blades"
! Long blades
| Craft [[longsword]]s and [[spear]]s.
| Medieval
| 400
| 400
| 600
| Smithing
| Simple

|- id="Plate-armors"
! Plate armor
| Smith suits of plate armor from metal or wood. This heavy armor noticeably slows movement, but protects very effectively.
| Medieval
| 600
| 600
| 900
| Smithing
| Simple

|- id="Greatbow"
! Greatbow
| Craft [[greatbow]]s for killing enemies at great range.
| Medieval
| 600
| 600
| 900
| Recurve bow Smithing
| Simple
|}

'''Industrial Research Projects'''
{| {{STDT| sortable c_07 text-center}}
! Name
! Description
! Tech level
! Base cost
! Industrial start cost
! Tribal start cost
! Required Research
! Required Research Bench & Addon

|- id="Drug-production"
! Drug production
| Build a [[drug lab]] for basic drug synthesis. Further research is required to make specific drugs.
| Industrial
| 500
| 500
| 1000
| None
| Simple

|- id="Psychite-refining"
! Psychite refining
| Refine [[psychoid leaves]] into [[flake]] and [[yayo]], different forms of the euphoric drug psychite.
| Industrial
| 400
| 400
| 800
| Drug production
| Simple

|- id="Wake-up-production"
! Wake-up production
| Synthesize [[wake-up]], a work performance-enhancing drug which replaces the need for sleep.
| Industrial
| 600
| 600
| 1200
| Drug production
| Simple

|- id="Go-juice-production"
! Go-juice production
| Produce [[go-juice]], a synthetic combat-performance-enhancing drug which improves shooting, melee, and movement ability, and dulls pain.
| Industrial
| 1000
| 1000
| 2000
| Drug production
| Simple

|- id="Penoxycyline-production"
! Penoxycyline production
| Produce [[Penoxycyline]] a disease prevention drug which blocks [[plague]], [[malaria]], and more before they start.
| Industrial
| 500
| 500
| 1000
| Drug production
| Simple

|- id="Electricity"
! Electricity
| Harness the power of electricity for a hundred different tasks.
| Industrial
| 1600
| 1600
| 3200
| None
| Simple

|- id="Hydroponics"
! Hydroponics
| Build [[hydroponics basin]]s to rapidly grow crops indoors regardless of the terrain or weather outside.
| Industrial
| 700
| 700
| 1400
| Electricity
| Simple

|- id="Battery"
! Battery
| Build [[Battery]] for storing [[Power|electricity]].
| Industrial
| 400
| 400
| 800
| Electricity
| Simple

|- id="Autodoor"
! Autodoor
| Build [[autodoor]]s which automatically open when someone approaches without slowing anyone down.
| Industrial
| 600
| 600
| 1200
| Electricity
| Simple

|- id="Air-conditioning"
! Air conditioning
| Build [[cooler]]s to make people comfortable in hot weather or to construct freezers for storing perishable goods.
| Industrial
| 500
| 500
| 1000
| Electricity
| Simple

|- id="IEDs"
! IEDs
| Build improvised traps from any kind of mortar shell.
| Industrial
| 500
| 500
| 1000
| Electricity
| Simple

|- id="Watermill-generator"
! Watermill generator
| Build [[watermill generator]]s on rivers to generate a steady supply of power.
| Industrial
| 700
| 700
| 1400
| Electricity
| Simple

|- id="Solar-panel"
! Solar panel
| Build [[solar panel]]s for electrical generation. (Needed for tribal starts only)
| Industrial
| 600
| 600
| 1200
| Electricity
| Simple

|- id="Biofuel-refining"
! Biofuel refining
| Build [[Biofuel refinery|Biofuel refineries]] to make chemfuel from biological matter like wood or foodstuffs.
| Industrial
| 700
| 700
| 1400
| Electricity
| Simple

|- id="Nutrient-paste"
! Nutrient paste
| Build [[nutrient paste dispenser]]s which efficiently produce edible meals from raw nutritive feedstocks.
| Industrial
| 400
| 400
| 800
| Electricity
| Simple

|- id="Firefoam"
! Firefoam
| Construct [[firefoam popper]]s, automatic fire-safety devices which spread fire-retardant foam in response to encroaching flames.
| Industrial
| 600
| 600
| 1200
| Electricity
| Hi-tech

|- id="Geothermal-power"
! Geothermal power
| Build [[Geothermal generator|geothermal power plants]] on top of steam geysers, for uninterrupted [[power]].
| Industrial
| 3200
| 3200
| 6400
| Electricity
| Hi-tech

|- id="Packaged-survival-meal"
! Packaged survival meal
| Produce [[packaged survival meal]]s, which never go bad. Great for travelling.
| Industrial
| 500
| 500
| 1000
| Nutrient paste
| Simple

|- id="Tube-television"
! Tube television
| Produce [[Joy|tube televisions]] for recreational watching.
| Industrial
| 1000
| 1000
| 2000
| Electricity
| Simple

|- id="Sterile-material"
! Sterile material
| Construct sterile tiles to make cleanrooms for safer and more effective medical treatment, research, and cooking.
| Industrial
| 600
| 600
| 1200
| Electricity
| Simple

|- id="Microelectronics"
! Microelectronics
| Work with complex microelectronics. This unlocks the [[Hi-tech research bench]] and [[comms console]].
| Industrial
| 3000
| 3000
| 6000
| Electricity
| Simple

|- id="Gunsmithing"
! Gunsmithing
| Craft simple manually operated guns like [[revolver]]s, [[pump shotgun]]s, [[bolt-action rifle]]s, and [[incendiary launcher]]s.
| Industrial
| 500
| 500
| 1000
| Machining
| Simple

|- id="Flak-armor"
! Flak armor
| Craft clothing with metal armor sewn in to resist bullets and explosions. This weighty armor slows movement slightly.
| Industrial
| 1200
| 1200
| 2400
| Machining
| Simple

|- id="Smokepop-belts"
! Smokepop belts
| Build [[smokepop belt]]s which generate an automatic defensive smokescreen when the user is shot.
| Industrial
| 300
| 300
| 600
| Machining
| Simple

|- id="Blowback-operation"
! Blowback operation
| Craft low-power blowback-operated guns like [[autopistol]]s, [[machine pistol]]s, and [[heavy SMG]]s.
| Industrial
| 500
| 500
| 1000
| Gunsmithing
| Simple

|- id="Mortars"
! Mortars
| Build [[mortar]]s which can lob [[mortar shell]]s long distances - even over walls.
| Industrial
| 2000
| 2000
| 4000
| Gunsmithing
| Simple

|- id="Prosthetics"
! Prosthetics
| Build inexpensive [[Prosthetics]] body pars to replace lost limbs. Requires a skilled doctor to attach.
| Industrial
| 600
| 600
| 1200
| Machining
| Simple

|- id="Gun-turrets"
! Gun turrets
| Produce simple [[Improvised turret|automated gun turrets]].
| Industrial
| 500
| 500
| 1000
| Blowback operation
| Simple

|- id="Gas-operation"
! Gas operation
| Craft high-power guns like [[chain shotgun]]s,[[LMG]]s, and heavy [[SMG]]s.
| Industrial
| 1000
| 1000
| 2000
| Blowback operation
| Simple

|- id="Medicine-production"
! Medicine production
| Produce standard industrial-tech medicine by combining [[herbal medicine]], [[neutroamine]], and [[cloth]].
| Industrial
| 1500
| 1500
| 3000
| Drug production Microelectronics
| Hi-tech

|- id="Colored-lights"
! Colored lights
| Construct colored [[Standing lamp|lights]] for decorative purposes. Cosmetic only.
| Industrial
| 300
| 300
| 600
| Microelectronics
| Hi-tech

|- id="Flatscreen-television"
! Flatscreen television
| Produce high-resolution [[flatscreen television]] for greater enjoyment.
| Industrial
| 2000
| 2000
| 4000
| Microelectronics Tube television
| Hi-tech

|- id="Transport-pod"
! Transport pod
| Construct launchable [[transport pod]]s that you can use to send people and supplies long distances across the planet's surface. Can be used for raiding, traveling, sending gifts, and more.
| Industrial
| 1000
| 1000
| 2000
| Microelectronics
| Hi-tech

|- id="Long-range-mineral-scanner"
! Long-range mineral scanner
| Construct [[long-range mineral scanner]]s your researchers can use to detect precious minerals across the planet. Can be turned to find a specific mineral. Requires advanced components to construct.
| Industrial
| 2000
| 2000
| 4000
| Microelectronics
| Hi-tech

|- id="Hospital-bed"
! Hospital bed
| Construct [[hospital bed]]s which improve medical outcomes.
| Industrial
| 1200
| 1200
| 2400
| Microelectronics
| Hi-tech

|- id="Moisture-pump"
! Moisture pump
| Construct [[moisture pump]]s, which very slowly normalize the moisture in the ground around them. They can turn wet ground dry and convert soft sand into normal sand.
| Industrial
| 1200
| 1200
| 2400
| Microelectronics
| Hi-tech

|- id="Shield-belt"
! Shield belt
| Build [[shield belt]]s, which use momentum-repulsion technology to block ranged attacks coming in or going out.
| Industrial
| 1000
| 1000
| 2000
| Microelectronics
| Hi-tech

|- id="Autocannon-turret"
! Autocannon turret
| Produce the heavy, long-ranged autocannon turret.
| Industrial
| 1600
| 1600
| 3200
| Microelectronics Gun turrets Gas operation
| Hi-tech

|- id="Precision-rifling"
! Precision rifling
| Craft precisely-machined guns like assault rifles and sniper rifles.
| Industrial
| 1400
| 1400
| 2800
| Microelectronics Gas operation
| Simple

|- id="Multibarrel-weapons"
! Multibarrel weapons
| Assemble [[minigun]]s.
| Industrial
| 2600
| 2600
| 5200
| Microelectronics Gas operation
| Hi-tech

|- id="Multi-analyzer"
! Multi-analyzer
| Build [[multi-analyzer]]s which increase research speed, and allow higher level research projects.
| Industrial
| 4000
| 4000
| 8000
| Microelectronics
| Hi-tech

|- id="Vitals-monitor"
! Vitals monitor
| Builds vitals monitors which improve medical outcomes when placed next to [[Hospital bed|medical beds]].
| Industrial
| 2500
| 2500
| 5000
| Multi-analyzer Hospital bed
| Hi-tech (Multi-analyzer)

|- id="Deep-drilling"
! Deep drilling
| Build [[deep drill]]s for extracting resources from deep underground. You'll need a [[ground-penetrating scanner]] to find the resources.
| Industrial
| 4000
| 4000
| 8000
| Multi-analyzer
| Hi-tech (Multi-analyzer)

|- id="Fabrication"
! Fabrication
| Build fabrication benches, capable of high-tech projects ranging from component assembly to power armor construction.
| Industrial
| 4000
| 4000
| 8000
| Multi-analyzer
| Hi-tech (Multi-analyzer)

|- id="Uranium-slug-turret"
! Uranium slug turret
| Produce the armor-penetrating uranium slug turret. It fires uranium slugs which tear though plasteel like paper, but it's less effective at close range.
| Industrial
| 3000
| 3000
| 6000
| Multi-analyzer Autocannon turret Precision rifling
| Hi-tech (Multi-analyzer)

|- id="Ground-penetrating-scanner"
! Ground-penetrating scanner
| Build [[ground-penetrating scanner]]s that can detect drillable resources deep under the surface. Requires advanced components to construct.
| Industrial
| 1000
| 1000
| 2000
| Deep drilling
| Hi-tech (Multi-analyzer)

|- id="Advanced-fabrication"
! Advanced fabrication
| Fabricate advanced components from standard components and other materials.
| Industrial
| 4000
| 4000
| 8000
| Multi-analyzer
| Hi-tech (Multi-analyzer)
|}

'''Spacer Research Projects'''
{| {{STDT| sortable c_07 text-center}}
! Name
! Description
! Tech level
! Base cost
! Industrial start cost
! Tribal start cost
! Required Research
! Required Research Bench & Addon

|- id="Cryptosleep-askets"
! Cryptosleep caskets
| Construct [[cryptosleep casket]]s, which can put living beings in a state of suspended animation.
| Spacer
| 2000
| 2000
| 4000
| Multi-analyzer
| Hi-tech (Multi-analyzer)

|- id="Powered-armor"
! Powered armor
| Build the [[power armor]] and [[power armor helmet]]s. Note that these also require advanced components.
| Spacer
| 6000
| 6000
| 12000
| Fabrication
| Hi-tech (Multi-analyzer)

|- id="Pulse-charged-munitions"
! Pulse charged munitions
| Build weapons which fire pulse-charged munitions for extra damage. Note that these also require advanced components.
| Spacer
| 3000
| 3000
| 6000
| Fabrication Precision rifling
| Hi-tech (Multi-analyzer)

|- id="Bionics"
! Bionics
| Build high-tech bionic body parts to replace lost limbs and eyes. Requires a skilled doctor to attach.
| Spacer
| 3000
| 3000
| 6000
| Fabrication Prosthetics
| Hi-tech (Multi-analyzer)

|- id="Starflight-basics"
! Starflight basics
| Construct the structural and supportive elements of a [[ship|starship]]. This is the first step in building a ship to leave this star system.
| Spacer
| 4000
| 4000
| 8000
| Advanced fabrication
| Hi-tech (Multi-analyzer)

|- id="Starflight-sensors"
! Starflight sensors
| Construct long-range sensors for a starship. These sensors are essential for navigation, communication, and threat avoidance.
| Spacer
| 4000
| 4000
| 8000
| Starflight basics Long-range mineral scanner
| Hi-tech (Multi-analyzer)

|- id="AI-persuasion"
! AI persuasion
| Build a reward-signal system to persuade an existing [[AI persona core|AI persona]] into serving as a ship's AI captain. Since people sleep during interstellar travel, an AI core is necessary to handle the complex decisions of a years-long starflight.
| Spacer
| 3000
| 3000
| 6000
| Starflight basics
| Hi-tech (Multi-analyzer)

|- id="Vacuum-cryptosleep-caskets"
! Vacuum cryptosleep caskets
| Construct hardened [[cryptosleep casket|ship cryptosleep caskets]] tough enough to be exposed to vacuum, for transporting people on the years-long journey between the stars.
| Spacer
| 2800
| 2800
| 5600
| Starflight basics Cryptosleep casket
| Hi-tech (Multi-analyzer)

|- id="Ship-reactor"
! Ship reactor
| Build a long-duration nuclear reactor to power a [[ship|starship]]. Note that reactors have a long startup process that will attract raiders.
| Spacer
| 6000
| 6000
| 12000
| Starflight basics
| Hi-tech (Multi-analyzer)

|- id="Johnson-Tanaka-drive"
! Johnson-Tanaka drive
| Construct a Johnson-Tanaka drive for a [[ship]]. The JT drive can push you to other stars by leveraging quantum scale effects to beam momentum to distant stars. Of course, as with all starships, it still takes many years to get anywhere.
| Spacer
| 6000
| 6000
| 12000
| Starflight basics
| Hi-tech (Multi-analyzer)
|}

[[Category:Research]]

Watermill generator

2020-02-03T21:00:04Z

Mayoculpa:

{{stub}}
{{infobox main|building|
|name = Watermill generator
|image = watermill_generator.png|128px{{!}} Watermill generator
|description = Produces electricity from a river. Must be placed with its wheel in moving water. If watermills are placed too close together, the turbulence they generate will interfere and reduce power generation.
|type = Buildings
|type2 = Power
|placeable = Yes
|size = 5|6
|hp =400
|efficiency =
|power = + 1100
|buy = {{icon|wood|280}} + {{icon|metal|80}} + {{icon|component|3}}
|sell = {{icon|wood|210}} + {{icon|metal|60}} + {{icon|component|2.25}}
}}

Watermill generators are built on moving water to generate a constant 1100W of electricity, regardless of weather or other conditions. A watermill generator must be placed:
#with its water wheel in moving water,
#with its base on tiles that can support Heavy (for example, not on a bridge or marsh).

The output of watermills will be reduced if you overlap their exclusion zones. If you wish to build multiple watermills, they will need to be spread out a bit making them slightly harder to defend than most other power generating systems. Power output does not depend on water tiles covered.

[[Bridge]]s do not interfere with power generation if built within the generator's exclusion zone.

Requires Watermill Generator [[research]].

== Version history ==

Introduced in Beta 19.

{{nav|power|wide}}

Power

2020-02-03T20:58:10Z

Mayoculpa: /* Power generators */

<noinclude>

{| align=center
| {{Architect_Nav}}
|}
----

</noinclude>

{{Tocright}}
'''Power''' is electrical energy that powers the operation of certain appliances, including workbenches, lights, temperature control devices, automated defenses, and more. Access to power is crucial to survival, especially in late game. The success of a colony often relies upon a fault-tolerant power grid with a reliable power flow that ensures that your appliances are working at all times, especially in emergencies.

== Power generators ==
=== Chemfuel powered generator ===
[[File:Chemfuel_powered_generator.png|64px|left|link=Chemfuel powered generator]]{{#show: Chemfuel powered generator |?note}} Requires no research for New Arrivals. Unlocked by researching Electricity for Tribal starts

=== Wood-fired generator ===
[[File:fueledgenerator.png|64px|left|link=Wood-fired generator]] The [[wood-fired generator]] is identical to the chemfuel generator, except that it is fueled by wood and is slightly cheaper to construct. Requires no research for New Arrivals. Unlocked by researching Electricity for Tribal starts
{{clear}}

=== Geothermal generator ===
[[File:GeothermalPlant.png|64px|left|link=Geothermal generator]]{{#show: Geothermal generator | ?note}}
Geothermal generators can be placed on steam geysers to produce power. Requires research.
{{clear}}

=== Solar generator ===
[[File:SolarCollector.png|64px|left|link=Solar generator]]{{#show: Solar generator | ?note }} Requires no research for New Arrivals. Must be researched separately by Tribal starts.
{{clear}}

=== Wind turbine ===
[[File:Wind Power.png|64px|left|link=Wind turbine]]{{#show: Wind turbine | ?note }} Requires no research for New Arrivals. Unlocked by researching Electricity for Tribal starts.
{{clear}}

=== Watermill generator ===
[[File:watermill_generator.png|64px|left|link=Watermill generator]] A [[watermill generator]] provides power from a moving river. It is relatively cheap and requires no upkeep, but is also fairly large and cannot be placed too closely to another without degrading performance. Requires research.
{{clear}}

=== Ship reactor ===
[[File:ShipReactor.png|64px|left|link=Ship reactor]] Although it is a ship part and not listed in the ''Power'' menu, the [[ship reactor]] is perfectly usable as a power generator. It provides 1000W of power, with no need for fuel or other maintenance; it does not generate any heat. It is normally only built as part of the space ship to win the game, and must be powered up to become operational for the ship, which triggers a 15-day long enemy invasion event. Requires research.
{{clear}}

=== Vanometric power cell ===
[[File:Vanometric power cell.png|32px|left|link=Vanometric power cell]] Similar to the ship reactor, the [[vanometric power cell]] provides a consistent 1000W of power at all times with no upkeep or restrictions. It has a small footprint and can be moved freely. The catch is that these power cells are very rare; they cannot be manufactured or purchased, only received as a quest reward. With their comparatively low output, there is no reliable way to acquire enough to satisfy more than a small fraction of a normal colony's power budget, but they are a convenient way of powering high-priority or off-grid equipment.

=== Power generator summary ===
{| {{STDT| sortable c_01}}
! Type !! Cost !! Size !! Max Output (Watts) !! Variable Output !! Day !! Night !! Placement
|-
|Solar || {{icon|metal|100}} {{icon|component|3}} || 4x4 || 1700 || ✓ || ✓ || ✗ || In sunlight
|-
|Wind turbine || {{icon|metal|100}} {{icon|component|2}} || 5x2 || 3450 || ✓ || ✓ || ✓ || In open ground
|-
|Watermill generator || {{icon|wood|280}} {{icon|metal|80}} {{icon|component|3}} || 5x6 || 1100 || ✗ || ✓ || ✓ || On riverbanks
|-
|Chemfuel generator || {{icon|metal|100}} {{icon|component|3}} || 2x2 || 1000 || ✗ || ✓ || ✓ || Anywhere
|-
|Wood-fired generator || {{icon|metal|100}} {{icon|component|2}} || 2x2 || 1000 || ✗ || ✓ || ✓ || Anywhere
|-
|Geothermal || {{icon|metal|400}} {{icon|component|8}} || 6x6 || 3600 || ✗ || ✓ || ✓ || On geysers
|-
|Ship reactor || {{icon|metal|300}} {{icon|plasteel|500}} {{icon|uranium|150}} {{icon|component|25}} || 6x7 || 1000 || ✗ || ✓ || ✓ || Outside ''(can roof over afterwards)''
|-
|Vanometric power cell || N/A || 1x2 || 1000 || ✗ || ✓ || ✓ || Anywhere
|-
|}

== Power transfers ==
=== Power conduit ===
[[File:PowerConduit_MenuIcon.png|36px|left|link=Power conduit]]{{#show: Power conduit | ?note}}

=== Power switch ===
[[File:PowerSwitch.png|32px|left|link=Power switch]]{{#show: Power_switch | ?note }}

== Power storage ==
=== Batteries ===
[[File:Battery.jpg|80px|left|link=Battery]] {{:Battery}}

== Appliances ==
Appliances are [[structure]]s or buildings that require power but don't transmit it.
Most appliances can connect automatically if placed up to six squares away from a conduit, generator or battery.
When connected to the power grid, it can take a few moments before an appliance turns on.

=== Managing appliances ===
'''Reconnect''': Click to force an appliance to reconnect to a conduit line or power source. This can also be used to change which power source an appliance is connected to if there is more than one in range. 
'''Designate toggle power''': Click to mark an appliance to be turned on (✔) or off (X) by a colonist set to [[Menus#Flick|flick]].

{|class="wikitable" style="display:inline-block;float:left"
|- align="center"
| width=70px height=70px | [[File:Reconnect.png|70px|link=|alt=Reconnect]]
|- align="center"
| <div>Reconnect</div>
|}
{|class="wikitable" style="display:inline-block;float:left"
|- align="center"
| width=70px height=70px | [[File:Designate Power On.png|70px|link=|Toggle ON]]
| width=70px height=70px | [[File:Designate Power Off.png|70px|link=|Toggle OFF]]
|- align="center"
| colspan="2"|<div>Designate toggle power</div>
|}

{{clr|both}}

=== Appliances summary ===


{| {{STDT| sortable c_01 |border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="1" class="article-table" style="width: 100%;"}}
|-
! Appliance
!Power consumption (in Watts)
|-
| [[Autodoor]] || 50
|-
| [[Electric tailoring bench|Electric tailor bench]] || 120
|-
| [[Electric smithy]] || 210
|-
| [[Machining table]] || 350
|-
| [[Electric smelter]] || 700
|-
| [[Electric crematorium]] || 250
|-
| [[Nutrient paste dispenser]] || 200
|-
| [[Standing lamp]] || 75
|-
| [[Sun lamp]] || 2900 during day only
|-
| [[Hydroponics basin]] || 70
|-
| [[Comms console]] || 200
|-
| [[Electric stove]] || 350
|-
| [[Heater]] || 175
|-
| [[Cooler]] || 200
|-
| [[Mini-turret]] || 80
|-
| [[Joy#Tube Television|Tube Television]] || 200
|-
| [[Joy#Flatscreen Television|Flatscreen Television]] || 150
|-
| [[Joy#Megascreen Television|Megascreen Television]] || 220
|}

{{nav|power|wide}}
[[Category:Main]]
[[Category:Architect]]
[[Category:Power]]

Growing zone

2020-02-03T18:34:20Z

Mayoculpa:

<onlyinclude>{{infobox main|area|
|name = Growing zone
|image = zone4.png|Growing zone
|description = A zone where your colonists will try to grow a certain kind of plant.
|type = Zones{{!}}Zones
|placeable = Yes
|size = 1|1 +
}}</onlyinclude>
A '''growing zone''' designates where [[Menus#Grow|growers]] will sow [[plants]], including [[trees]]. Growing zones are only allowed in soil, rich soil, or gravel, each with an effect on growth rate. They can't be placed on sand, natural stone, mud, water, or flooring. When the mouse is over a tile, the fertility rate is shown at the bottom left of the screen. Only one type of plant can be selected for each individual zone. Trees planted in zones need a 1 tile radius in all directions free of other crops or trees, even if planted in other zones. Planters will remove wild trees next to growing zones to accommodate this radius.

When a growing zone is selected, buttons appear to allow the player to change the plant to be grown or to allow the zone to be renamed, deleted, hidden, or to allow/disallow sowing. When sowing is disabled colonists will still harvest.

Guesstimating a correct size of a growing zone is not easy with so many [[Plants#Growth Rate Factors|factors]] affecting [[Events#Generally Bad|potential]] harvest. A quick rule of thumb is to grow 10+ tiles of food crops per colonist in a biome with year-round growing. If the colony hunts as well, it will accumulate some, though not excessive, food reserves, which can be saved for winter, fed to prisoners, or sold.

[[File:Growing zone example.jpg|500px]]

=== Tips and tricks ===

Put 4-tile-wide gaps in between your crop fields to prevent the spread of fire or [[Events_Guide#Blight|blight]]. If you use roofed walkways for this purpose, they can also come in handy during winter or [[Events_Guide#toxic fallout|toxic fallout]].

You can double-click an empty tile inside a growing zone to highlight all growing zones on the visible portion of the map. This can be handy in a biome with winter to forbid sowing as winter approaches - but be sure to turn sowing back on before spring!

You can also place growing zones over wild plants and forbid sowing. Your growers will not plant any new crops, but will instead harvest the wild plants when they are fully grown. This can be used for such plants as trees, berries, healroot or ambrosia.

=== Legacy controls ===

In older versions of the game, the controls for growing zones had a slightly different appearance:

[[File:Plantation growing zone.png|500px]]

{{nav|zone}}
[[Category:Zones]]

Growing zone

2020-02-03T18:31:05Z

Mayoculpa:

<onlyinclude>{{infobox main|area|
|name = Growing zone
|image = zone4.png|Growing zone
|description = A zone where your colonists will try to grow a certain kind of plant.
|type = Zones{{!}}Zones
|placeable = Yes
|size = 1|1 +
}}</onlyinclude>
A '''growing zone''' designates where [[Menus#Grow|growers]] will sow [[plants]], including [[trees]]. Growing zones are only allowed in soil, rich soil, or gravel, each with an effect on growth rate. They can't be placed on sand, natural stone, mud, water, or flooring. When the mouse is over a tile, the fertility rate is shown at the bottom left of the screen. Only one type of plant can be selected for each individual zone. Trees planted in zones need a 1 tile radius in all directions free of other crops or trees, even if planted in other zones. Planters will remove wild trees next to growing zones to accommodate this radius.

When a growing zone is selected, buttons appear to allow the player to change the plant to be grown or to allow the zone to be renamed, deleted, hidden, or to allow/disallow sowing. When sowing is disabled colonists will still harvest.

Guesstimating a correct size of a growing zone is not easy with so many [[Plants#Growth Rate Factors|factors]] affecting [[Events#Generally Bad|potential]] harvest. A quick rule of thumb is to grow 10+ tiles of food crops per colonist. If the colony hunts as well, it will accumulate some, though not excessive, food reserves, which can be saved for winter, fed to prisoners, or sold.

[[File:Growing zone example.jpg|500px]]

=== Tips and tricks ===

Put 4-tile-wide gaps in between your crop fields to prevent the spread of fire or [[Events_Guide#Blight|blight]]. If you use roofed walkways for this purpose, they can also come in handy during winter or [[Events_Guide#toxic fallout|toxic fallout]].

You can double-click an empty tile inside a growing zone to highlight all growing zones on the visible portion of the map. This can be handy in a biome with winter to forbid sowing as winter approaches - but be sure to turn sowing back on before spring!

You can also place growing zones over wild plants and forbid sowing. Your growers will not plant any new crops, but will instead harvest the wild plants when they are fully grown. This can be used for such plants as trees, berries, healroot or ambrosia.

=== Legacy controls ===

In older versions of the game, the controls for growing zones had a slightly different appearance:

[[File:Plantation growing zone.png|500px]]

{{nav|zone}}
[[Category:Zones]]

File:Growing zone example.jpg

2020-02-03T18:20:59Z

Mayoculpa: Selecting a growing zone lets you expand, shrink or delete it, select which crops to grow and allow or forbid sowing. Double-click an empty tile in an existing growing zone to highlight all growing zones in the visible portion of the map. This makes it possible to quickly forbid sowing in the fall, or allow it again when the growing season is about to start.

== Summary ==
Selecting a growing zone lets you expand, shrink or delete it, select which crops to grow and allow or forbid sowing.

Double-click an empty tile in an existing growing zone to highlight all growing zones in the visible portion of the map. This makes it possible to quickly forbid sowing in the fall, or allow it again when the growing season is about to start.

Intermediate Midgame Guide

2020-02-03T18:07:11Z

Mayoculpa: /* Colonist management */

{{TOCright}}

"Mid-game" is the phase of an established colony working towards the research and resources necessary to build the spaceship. At this point of the game, you want to create a stable community that is self-sufficient and can recover from disaster as quickly as possible. Even a string of bad events should not lead to ruin.

This is the longest phase of a typical playthrough. Your challenge is to keep all basic needs covered and, most importantly, have everybody in a good [[mood]]. The game tries to put your colonists in a bad mood in many ways. Counteracting this is how you avoid crises and increase overall productivity. A lot of the advice in this guide revolves around mood management, either directly or indirectly.

== Buildings and Infrastructure ==

{{main|Colony Building Guide}}

Here is a list of facilities in rough order of importance that an established base in midgame should have – all of this ''heavily'' varies by difficulty level and map conditions (but you will know when your defense was too weak for your difficulty level...).

* In general, all areas should be well lit (no dark places) and there should be sufficient heating and cooling. Frequented areas should have constructed or smoothed floors. [[Autodoor]]s should be used where adequate (usually at least for the kitchen, freezer, storage and production room).
* '''Power supply''': the power supply must be sufficient to run all essential facilities, including lighting. Some backup (such as offline batteries) should be on stand-by. Since power is critical in some areas (e.g. to run the freezer) it must not be easily interrupted by damage; that means, run some backup power lines.
* '''Freezer''': a refrigerated room that is large enough to hold enough fresh food to get you through the winter or special circumstances like a [[Events#Toxic_fallout|toxic fallout]] event. How much food you need to store depends on a lot of other factors.
* '''Kitchen''': a place to prepare food. This is critical to any colony; the kitchen must be well maintained and in an accessible place.
* '''Food production''': some capacity to farm vegetables (e.g. an outdoor farm with some protection from fire and animals, or an indoor hydroponics facility). How much is needed depends on the amount of meat available from hunting, and if you have domesticated animals yielding products. You also want to farm medication and various drugs, in addition to food.
* '''Warehouse''': a storage area that is reasonably fire-proof and easily accessible.
* '''Living''': good living conditions for your colonists. This usually means private bedrooms for everybody, and all colonists with special needs ("greedy", "jealous") covered, as well as a dining and recreation area. All of this should be as comfortable and beautiful as possible.
* '''Hospital''': at least a few beds in a clean room to tend patients. Preferably the room should be sterile and include hospital beds and vitals monitors. A stockpile of medication should be in this room.
* '''Defenses''': facilities adequate for your difficulty level to defend you from raids. This can range from a few walls to heavy fortifications and automated turrets.
* '''Production''': a dedicated area for crafting and creating. This should be close to the warehouse, and made as comfortable and beautiful as is reasonable.
* '''Prison''': if you get a lot of "visitors", some decent accommodation (a.k.a. brig) is in order. The prison cells should be comfortable enough to keep the prisoner as happy as possible, because that makes recruiting them easier.

Do not strive for perfection in any of these areas yet. It is better to have a makeshift hospital than none at all; so make a room with a few beds that are only used for medical purposes, before thinking about hospital beds and sterile tiles. The important point is to have medical beds on stand-by, in a clean room, at all times – not to have the perfect end-game hospital right from the start.

Likewise, keeping a small, ugly, insecure prison barracks is still better than having to re-purpose rooms after every raid in order to even capture somebody (leaving some colonists without bedrooms in the process).

Create the basic facilities first, then improve them afterwards. Do not take unnecessary shortcuts (for example, do not put the butcher's table in the medical room, because "there just was no better spot at the moment"). By the midgame you should strive to have everything built out of stone.

Kitchen, hospital and laboratory (research benches) can be placed in the same room, which should be sterile. This is because room cleanliness has a major impact on cooking, medical outcomes and research speed. Also, kitchen and hospital should be in a prime location in your base, and combining them makes this easier to achieve.

Make all rooms as cozy and beautiful as possible, especially the areas where your colonists spend a lot of time (this can be a research desk!). Putting good chairs in front of all production desks will make your colonists feel comfortable while they are using them. A beautiful environment will lift up their mood. This applies anywhere your colonists spend a lot of time, not only to the recreation area.

The rooms and corridors must be spacious enough to not cause problems and allow your colonists to move around freely. Leaving a little extra room is almost always a good idea.

{{clr}}

=== Freezer ===
[[File:Special freezer.png|thumb|right|This freezing room has the coolers placed in the center instead of at the edges. Only the center tile is unroofed. The green area shows the roof, this is also the "cold" area of the freezer room. The center, unroofed, tile is at outdoors temperature.]]
[[File:Freezer example.jpg|thumb|right|A double-walled freezer with a single airlock entrance.]]
Even in the early game, the freezer is an indispensable facility, because meat and prepared meals spoil very quickly, and it is impossible to keep a fresh food stockpile without a controlled freezing area.

In the mid-game, you must make sure that your freezer is large enough to store enough supplies for the entire colony, and possibly many days. The freezer must be close to the room where meals are prepared. Since unbutchered animals are usually stored inside the freezer as well, it is viable to put the butcher's table ''inside'' the freezer. This also keeps the substantial filth from the butchering in a room where it does not matter. Butchering is a short, intermittent activity for your cook, so the work speed penalty is not very impactful here.

=== Kitchen ===
[[File:Kitchen area.png|thumb|right|Kitchen area with short walkways for the colonists and separate meal freezer. This layout tries to minimize foot traffic in the kitchen, but it is difficult to avoid. Haulers need to be able to take leather from the freezer to the warehouse, without walking through the kitchen – this is not shown in this layout.]]

By midgame usually you will have at least one [[electric stove]], and possibly some temporary storage shelves for cooking ingredients.

At some point, you should replace the floor in this room with metal or even sterile tiles. This will reduce the chance of [[food poisoning]], a very annoying condition that you want to avoid.

In any case, the kitchen absolutely needs to be close to the freezer, probably right next to it. The connecting door is also probably the first [[autodoor]] you should build in your base.

Prepared food has to be delivered to your dining area, and often also to prisoners and hospital patients. Position the kitchen so that this is easily possible. The kitchen door should probably be an [[autodoor]]. When the colony grows larger, you should create a secondary, small freezer room close to where prepared meals are consumed. Then do not store meals any longer in the freezer. This will reduce foot traffic in the freezer, and make it a lot easier to have colonists eat at a table. The popular ''Rim Fridge'' mod helps with this approach.

=== Bedrooms ===
[[File:Bedroom.png|thumb|right|General purpose bedroom, suitable for all phases of the game. Temperature is equalized with a hallway to the right. The room has enough space for a temporary production building.]]

Bedrooms have a high impact on the overall mood of your colonists, so it is worth investing in them. Higher quality beds make your colonists rest more quickly during sleep, increasing their productivity (work hours per day).

A good midgame bedroom needs to be ''impressive'' and provide a ''comfortable'' bed.

* To increase comfort, give the bed an [[end table]], and put a [[dresser]] in the room. Higher quality furniture provides better comfort, while higher quality beds increase the ''rest effectiveness''. Have your most capable builder furnish the bedrooms.
* Overall [[Room stats|impressiveness]] of the room is a complex [[Room stats|combination]] of several factors: ''wealth'', ''room size'', ''beauty'' and ''cleanliness''. Provide a good balance of all these qualities.
* A good midgame bedroom has all of the following:
** 25 tiles of floor space; bigger is not good, because it increases cleaning effort and cost of flooring. This leaves enough room to put temporary production buildings in the bedroom, useful during base expansion.
** Bed, end table and dresser in best possible quality
** Standing lamp
** Beauty items, such as flower pot or sculpture; more is better, but do not go overboard.
** High quality flooring, such as carpets. This increases beauty. If you can smooth the floors (and walls), usually in a mountain base, this is always preferable to carpet flooring: it gives the same beauty value, but is not flammable and much cheaper to build. You need a good constructor, because smoothing floors takes a lot of work.
** Heating and/or cooling; it is far easier to heat or cool the hallways instead, and use [[vent]]s to equalize the temperature with the bedrooms.

Keep the bedrooms clean, because dirt quickly lowers "impressiveness".

It is ''not'' recommended to have a table and chair in the room for colonists to eat at, because other colonists will use it as well, and possibly disturb the sleep of the owner. Put the eating tables in the hallway in front of the bedrooms if you have to.

Bedrooms should only have a single door, so they will not be used as a thoroughfare, disturbing the sleep of their owners.

=== Hospital ===
[[File:Compact hospital layout.png|thumb|right|A highly efficient hospital layout. Dresser and end tables provide maximum comfort. Two vitals monitors cover all 8 beds. Flatscreen TVs provide extra recreation for the patients. Medical supplies are close by, the room is well lit and accessible from all sides. The vents equalize room temperature with the hallway (climatize as needed). Up to six more beds could be installed here rather easily: four in place of the end tables, and one each to the left and right of the vitals monitors; all beds will have dresser, TV and monitor coverage.]]

A hospital room should have [[sterile tile]] flooring; they provide a cleanliness buff that increases surgery success rate and lowers wound infection chance. [[Hospital bed]]s and [[vitals monitor]]s boost treatment quality and immunity gain. One vitals monitor can cover up to 8 hospital beds in the most effective layout.

Bedridden colonists have no access to recreation outside of "solitary relaxation" and "social interaction" with other colonists. This can be alleviated by placing TV sets in range of the hospital beds. Colonists sleep facing to the right, so in order for a TV to be usable by the patient, it has be either "south" or "east" of the bed (with the head rest being "north").

The quality of the hospital bed increases both rest quality and treatment quality. It is advised to have only your most capable construction workers make hospital beds.

[[Dresser]] and [[end table]]s ''do increase'' the comfort of the hospital bed. The furniture does not affect medical treatment, but improves the mood of the colonists while they are recovering. The downside is that each end table blocks a spot with vitals monitor coverage, but this is not a problem until one needs to squeeze the absolute maximum number of beds into the hospital.

It is good for the hospital to be "spacious" and "beautiful", because the mood benefits will apply to patients, who usually spend a fair amount of time in the hospital room.

Keep your medicine stockpiles close to, or inside the hospital room. Put them on shelves to eliminate the beauty penalty of the stockpiles (it also looks better).

Due to patients usually being "in pain", and therefore being in poor mood (unless they happen to be ''masochists''), a [[psychic emanator]] is very beneficial if you can position it to cover your hospital beds (this item is only available as a quest reward).

==== Using hospital beds as sleeping spots ====

Note that hospital beds can be regular sleeping spots for colonists or prisoners. They are marked as "medical" beds by default, but can be marked for colonist or prisoner use just like a regular bed (however, turning the entire hospital into a prison is normally not viable).

Use this to your advantage. You will normally have more hospital beds than you need, and they happen to be high quality beds in a comfortable environment. If you need an extra prison cell, for example, convert the bedroom of a happy colonist into a prison cell and repurpose one of the hospital beds for the colonist.

=== Recreation and dining room ===

In the early game it is usually not viable to divert much time and resources to recreation, outside of a horse shoes pin in the sand, and a table with a few stools in the kitchen.

In the mid-game, this changes, and your growing colony demands good entertainment and a civilized dining experience.

Any room with a table and chairs, and a food source close enough can be a "dining room". However, it is efficient to combine this with the recreation area. Having an impressive room for dining and recreation gives a mood buff that lasts through the day. If you arrange for your colonists to eat in the recreation hall, you only have to invest in ''one'' impressive room instead of two.

Unless you use mods (such as ''Rim Fridge'' and the ''TD Enhancement Pack''), it can be tricky to motivate your colonists to take their meals in a dedicated room. Your best bet is to place the source of food (usually the freezer room) as close as possible to the next available table – which should be in the recreation hall. It can even be viable to create a dedicated, small freezer room right next to the dining room, and store cooked meals exclusively there. This will also greatly shorten travel times of your colonists, because grabbing meals is such a common action.

The recreation room needs to be fairly spacious, and it should house all the recreation items that your colony can afford. Usually at least a 12x12 (or larger) area is required. It should also ''not'' be the central room in your colony, because it is infrequently used and not critical for colony operation. Having your colonists walk through, or around this room many times per day is very time consuming.

Make this room as impressive as possible. Put your great works of art there, have it well-lit and clean. The room will be used by all colonists, every day, so every mood improving effort there is very effective. It is good to have an outdoors recreation area as well (to reduce the ''cabin fever'' debuff on some colonists), but outdoors recreation is limited in an unmodded game.

The recreation room is the fun room, not only for the colonists, but also you, the player. It is the king piece, have fun with it and make it awesome.

Having production or research buildings in this room does ''not'' lower its recreational value (as long as no dirt or clutter comes with it). In fact, it can be a good idea to have buildings like the research bench, sculptor's table, and other production buildings in this room – at least temporarily. This is economical, and makes good use of the mood benefits that come with this area of your base.

=== Workshop ===

You may need to expand your workshop to accommodate more workbenches.

It is an excellent idea to put decorations such as sculptures inside the workshop, as a beautiful environment gives up to +15 mood, improving colonists' productivity.

=== Power ===

==== Geothermal power ====
[[Geothermal generator|Geothermal power]] is an important source of power from mid-game onward, as it is constant and high-powered. You will need to research Geothermal Power first before you can unlock it, and the generator itself is quite costly (though affordable in midgame). However, once researched and built you can have a constant power supply; you can even have some excess power until lategame.

Make sure your geothermal generators and their connecting conduits are well-protected as they often have to be placed far from base.

=== Laboratory ===
You may want to have a room dedicated to research, with [[hi-tech research bench]]es, [[multi-analyzer]]s to increase research speed and unlock new research, as well as sterile tiles to keep the room clean, increasing research speed. For even better cleanliness, restrict the lab to your researchers and janitors only, reducing traffic and hence the amount of dirt in the room.

=== Prison cells ===

[[File:Prison_example_midgame.png|400px|thumb|right|Mid-late game prison blocks, partially filled. Each cell has a table with a chair, a bed, decorations and a chess table with a chair (for aesthetic purposes). Generosity like this is well-appreciated and rewarded with prisoners joining your colony. Note that the doors open towards the rest of the base (downwards).]]

Like colonists, [[prisoner]]s will also suffer from the mood penalties associated with being kept together in a prison barracks. In addition, prison breaks are also more serious should they happen, for every prisoner locked up in the same room will simultaneously break out, while prisoners in different cells may choose not to join. Thus, you should keep them separated.

Each cell should have a table with a chair, a bed, and a light source. This is the bare minimum you need for a prisoner to be decently kept. Decorating the cell and making bigger cells also increase mood bonuses for easier recruitment. They can't use any joy items put in the cell, but you can add them anyway for a better cell.

Prisons should have doors facing towards your base, so escaping prisoners will go towards your base instead of away, giving your wardens time to deal with the break.

=== Backup facilities ===

Create redundancies for important facilities of your base.
* Power can be stored in disconnected batteries. They will discharge at 5W, which will deplete a full battery over 120 days. Either put the reserve batteries behind a switch, or keep them disconnected in a stockpile. Their main use comes immediately after a short ("Zzzt..."), when all main batteries will be completely empty, usually leading to a brown out.
* Strategically placed stockpiles of wood can provide heating, for example during a solar flare or cold snap. Mark these wood stacks "forbidden", so your colonists will not use them during regular operation.
* Since electric stoves do not work at all during a power failure, it can be useful to have a fueled stove as backup. If some of the food in your freezer is about to go bad during a solar flare, this will allow you to quickly cook some meals to effectively extend the shelf life of the ingredients.
* Critical power lines should be run twice, so in case of damage (or accidental deconstruction) there is no complete power failure. This is especially important around power sensitive areas like the freezer, a hydroponics bay and the power generators themselves.
* Nutrient paste dispensers are very useful if you unexpectedly run short of cooked meals. This can happen for a variety of reasons, such as a sudden influx of prisoners, or your cooks becoming incapacitated.
* There should be a spare room in your base with a couple of beds. This can be used as an overflow bedroom or makeshift prison. At the bare minimum you should have a couple of bedrolls in storage. They are very quick to craft, the leather quality does not matter, and they are useful for caravans as well.

=== Clean room ===
[[File:Sterile room compact.png|thumb|right|Space efficient clean room with kitchen stove, 8 hospital beds with vitals monitor and TVs, and two hi-tech research benches with multi-analyzer. The room is (rated) beautiful and well lit. Note that two TV sets are needed to cover all beds. The freezer is accessible while minimizing foot traffic in the clean room. This structure should be at the edge of the base.]]

There are three structures that benefit from room cleanliness: the kitchen stove, the research bench and hospital beds. It is therefore economical to place these buildings into a room with [[sterile tile]]s. The research benches can be torn down for the end-game and replaced with more hospital beds.

If the room is sterile, the output from research benches is amplified by 9%. This is a substantial amount of work hours from your researchers, especially because so much time is spent researching over the course of the game. Make your laboratory sterile as soon as possible for this reason.

The "clean room design" is also efficient logistically, because both the hospital and the kitchen (with adjacent freezer) are well placed at the edge of the base, easily accessible from both the inside and the outside. Food supplies need to be carried in, and injured colonists require good access to the hospital when returning from the field. Having the kitchen inside the hospital makes feeding patients quick and easy.

Foot traffic in this room should be minimized to keep it as clean as possible. Make sure your colonists do not have to pass through this room unless they have to do work here. This means that while the room should be close to the main entrance to your base, it should ''not'' be the lobby where everybody has to walk through. It should also be off-limits to colony animals. An adjacent freezer room should have its own access doors, so that bleeding corpses do not have to be carried across the clean room.

Variations of this theme are, of course, possible, such as separating the kitchen from the rest of the room with walls and doors.

==Resources==

Useful resources include:
*[[Medicine]] to heal wounded and sick colonists
*[[Glitterworld medicine]] for successful surgeries
*[[Stone Blocks]] to make your base
*[[Components]] and [[steel]] to make non-primitive things
*[[Plasteel]] for durable constructs and high-end equipment
*[[Silver]] to barter for nearly anything

=== Food ===
Besides plant-based foods, you should also have a source of animal products and meat so you can make better meals for your colonists.

==== Animal products ====
Some female animals produce [[milk]]. They can be milked regularly by a handler to produce their needed milk.

If you want meat you should raise some [[chicken]]s. They rise in numbers extremely fast, laying eggs rapidly and growing in the span of a little more than 1 season. Raising chickens requires some heavy population management but is rewarding if done right.

[[Pig]]s are another good option for livestock, particularly if you have several skilled animal handlers. They can be trained to haul and release, and are one of the more efficient animals in terms of food consumed versus food produced.

=== Agriculture ===
At this stage you should have solved your food problems (mostly). You should have the space to grow a variety of crops to provide other resources. You should start growing [[corn]] because it has the best time to amount produced ratio.

==== Cash crops ====

Three good choices are [[devilstrand mushroom|devilstrand]], [[psychoid plant]]s and [[smokeleaf]].

Devilstrand is an excellent choice as a mid-game fabric, providing good protection and can be farmed. It can net a large amount of silver for every harvest, but it's very slow-growing.

Psychoid can he harvested and made into drugs, which can sell for a lot. Be careful with drugs as colonists with the chemical interest or fascination [[traits]] will binge on drugs if given access to them.

Smokeleaf can be harvested and rolled into [[smokeleaf joint]]s which can sell for quite a sum as well. It takes more work to craft, but it's also less dangerous than hard drugs which can cause immediate addiction, but smoking it carries quite some debuffs.

{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! Product!! Grow Days!! Harvest Yield!! Plant/Drug!! Drugs/Harvest!! Work Required!! Market Value!! Market Cost !! Max Profit !! Max Profit/Plant!! Max Profit/Work
|-
| Beer|| 5|| 8|| 5|| 1.6|| 462.5|| 12|| 0|| 10.8|| 2.16|| .023
|-
| Smokeleaf|| 8|| 9|| 4|| 2.25|| 637|| 11|| 0|| 9.9|| 2.475|| .016
|-
| Wake-up|| N/A|| N/A|| N/A|| N/A|| 900|| 35|| 12|| 19.5|| N/A|| .022
|-
| Flake|| 9|| 8|| 4|| 2|| 460|| 14|| 0|| 12.6|| 3.15|| .027
|-
| Yayo|| 9|| 8|| 8|| 1|| 770|| 21|| 0|| 18.9|| 2.363|| .025
|-
| Psychite Tea|| 9|| 8|| 4|| 2|| 610|| 10|| 0|| 9|| 2.25|| .015
|-
| Go-Juice|| 9|| 8|| 8|| 1|| 1370|| 53|| 12|| 35.7|| 4.463|| .026
|-
| Penoxycyline|| N/A|| N/A|| N/A|| N/A|| 600|| 18|| 12|| 4.2|| N/A|| .007
|-
| Herbal Medicine|| 7|| 1|| 1|| 1|| 0|| 10|| 0|| 9|| 9|| .007
|}
Note: Work Required includes work needed to plant, harvest and craft. Max Profit assumes Social Skill of 20 (90% Market Value)

=== Mining ===
There's only so much metals on the surface, but there's much more beneath your colony.

You will need to [[research]] deep drilling and [[ground-penetrating scanner]] first to use drills effectively. After this, when you put down a [[deep drill]], you can see where mineral deposits are.

Deep drilling should be the main source of steel and plasteel for your colony at this stage onward. It's best to spare the remaining compacted steel deposits for emergency if you find yourself out of steel to build deep drills out of.

=== [[Component]]s ===
You need a large supply of components for building and crafting.

The best way to obtain components is by trading. Call friendly factions to send bulk goods traders, which always sell components and also buys a lot of your raw materials. Some other traders also sell components at an increased price.

Even after you've researched it, making them at the [[component assembly bench]] is not a good source as it is cost and labor intensive (25 steel and 134 work required for just 1 component). It does train your craftsmen very fast though, so you can consider making some for practice, while solving your shortage at the same time.

=== [[Drugs|Drugs & Chemicals]] ===

Once you've taken care of your food supply, you can spare some more land to grow plants to make drugs out of. They can provide a boost to colonists' mood, improve their performance at work, protect against disease or sell for a lot of silver.

Be careful with drugs, especially when you have colonists with the Chemical Interest or Fascination [[traits]]; you will have to keep drugs away from them, or they will binge on them and get addicted or die from [[overdose]].

[[Neutroamine]] can only be purchased from traders, and is needed to make [[medicine]], [[penoxycyline]] and [[wake-up]]. Consider carefully how much of each drug you will need when deciding how to use this resource.

==== [[Beer]] ====
Beer is a social drug that improves mood and can provide joy.

To make beer, you need to have Brewing researched. Then, you will need to grow [[hops]]. Next, you will need to build a [[brewery]] and some [[fermenting barrel]]s Your colonists will turn hops into wort, a precursor to beer. They will then haul wort into the fermenting barrels and wait for the beer to be made.

Colonists can enjoy a beer occasionally (every 2.5 days or so) without risk of addiction. They can also drink quite a lot in one go without getting addicted, but then they will need to wait longer before their next drink, and they risk getting a hangover.

==== [[Smokeleaf joint]] ====
A social drug smoked to provide joy, and provide a decent mood boost. However, colonists stoned on smokeleaf suffer from quite some debuffs so it's not a good idea to smoke it unless you need it.

All you need is some [[smokeleaf leaves]] and a crafting spot. The process of rolling leaves into joints is quick and easy.

Colonists can enjoy a joint every 2 days without risk of addiction.

==== Psychite ====
A type of drug made from the leaves of the [[psychoid plant]].

Crashlanded starts can research psychoid brewing to make [[psychite tea]]. Tribal colonies start the game with this research. Psychite tea has the same addiction chance as beer and smokeleaf but does not slow movement or reduce consciousness.

Refined psychoid comes in 2 variants: [[flake]] and [[yayo]]. While they provide a good buff to both mood and stats, they are extremely addictive. Besides this, they are highly profitable. Being very light, you can carry lots on a single caravan trip, and net you a ton of silver in return.

==== [[Go-juice]] ====
A synthetic combat drug made at the drug lab. As its description says, it's suited for your soldiers to take a hit before combat to boost their effectiveness.

It's highly addictive however, and soldiers that frequently use it will quickly find that they are hooked to it and will need to regularly take a hit or suffer from its horrible withdrawal symptoms.

While high on it, your soldiers will move faster, shoot and fight better, and also be more durable than normal- they take a lot more damage without going down, because they don't even feel much pain at all. This also means your colonist will have a much higher risk of death as they don't go down safely unless they take serious brain damage or have their spine or leg destroyed.

==== [[Wake-up]] ====
Stimulant drug that improves consciousness and reduces the need for sleep.

It does not provide any mood buffs but it isn't as addictive as other hard drugs. Colonists can take 1 every 3 days without getting addicted so it's good for occasional use.

==== [[Penoxycyline]] ====
The only medical drug in the game so far. It provides resistance to the [[plague]], [[malaria]] or [[sleeping sickness]].

It can be used every 5 days to prevent diseases from being contracted.

Most useful in tropical rainforests where disease is rife. Not so useful in cold or arid areas where disease is of little threat.

==== [[Luciferium]] ====
A performance-enhancing [[mechanite]] concoction. It provides good functional buffs, and given enough time can heal old scars (including dreaded brain injuries) but doesn't help at mood at all. It cannot be made and must be bought at traders or found occasionally.

One of its most significant features is that withdrawal from luciferium is fatal and incurable. Luciferium needs to be taken every 6.667 days in order to prevent withdrawal symptoms, and if the need is unmet the colonist will die in a mean of 10 days.

Due to its high price and constant need, at this stage you should only give it to colonists who need to recover from brain injuries or serious scars. Colonists with a destroyed part (e.g. a shot off leg) cannot recover without installing a new part.

=== Smelting ===
Once you've researched the [[electric smelter]] you can smelt weapons or steel slag chunks for metallic resources.

Steel slag chunks are an unreliable and rather uneconomical source of steel. Smelting should serve to get rid of them more than as a major source of steel, except in extreme survival situations. 
For melee weapons it's best that you smelt them as this returns more resources than if you sold them. Weapons don't sell well, at only 20% of base value. 
Ranged weapons, on the other hand, are best sold. If you smelt them you'll gain less, especially if any components making up the weapon are destroyed. 
However, if the weapons are of low quality or are worn-out it's always a better idea to smelt them.

The smelter allows you to destroy non-smeltable weapons but it's best to keep them as you can sell them, even for a paltry price.

== Equipment ==
While in early game you may need to scavenge what equipment you could, or craft some very rudimentary equipment such as [[tribalwear]] or [[shiv]]s. Now that you're in midgame, however, you should have the ability to manufacture your own equipment. Good equipment means that you stand a chance against raiders, even when outnumbered.

You should have a [[fueled smithy]] or an [[electric smithy]] to craft melee weapons, [[electric tailoring bench]] for sewing clothes (faster than a [[hand-tailoring bench]]), and a [[machining table]] for armor and guns.

=== Apparel ===
You should always craft [[button-down shirt]]s over [[T-shirt]]s, as they provide better insulation and coverage than simply T-shirts. It's always worth it spending a little more cloth than a replacement arm.

In addition, you can equip your colonists with [[duster]]s, [[jacket]]s or [[parka]]s if you need to.
*Jackets provide additional protection against attacks or the cold.
*Dusters provide protection against both heat or cold, as well as additional protection. Has a larger coverage than the Jacket, protecting the neck and legs as well.
*Parkas provide very good insulation against cold, but provide minimal protection. They should only be worn when actually needed.

Devilstrand is the best for protection; though it isn't as protective as [[hyperweave]] (which is hard to find and ''very'' costly), it can be farmed and produced in mass amounts. 
Wool is best for insulation.

For your soldiers, you should always have [[armor vest]]s and [[advanced helmet]]s. Just this can protect against a large part of the damage taken. If you're short on materials you can always use the [[simple helmet]], which is significantly cheaper though providing less protection. 
Melee fighters should have [[shield belt]]s, though these may be harder to obtain as [[uranium]] is rare and raiders don't come with shields that often.

[[Power armor]] should wait until later as it costs a lot, either to buy or to make.

==== Apparel management ====
You can choose which kind of apparel your colonists will wear. Go to the Assign tab then you can change the outfit worn by colonists under 'Current outfit'. You can also go to 'Manage outfits' and change the settings of each outfit.

*'Anything' isn't recommended as your apparel will not be allocated properly.
*'Worker' allows colonists to wear casual clothes, but not armor. Best for your workers who don't engage in combat much.
*'Soldier' allows colonist to wear armor and some clothes beneath them.
**By default, jackets and dusters aren't allowed; you should allow them as they can provide extra protection on top of your armor vests.
*'Nudist' makes them wear nothing other than headgear, and obviously is intended for your nudist colonists only.

Once you set them, colonists will automatically switch apparel when needed. They will switch low-quality apparel or worn-out apparel for better ones.

You can also force colonists to wear apparel. If forced, they won't replace it automatically; you have to manually direct them to remove them. Choosing 'Clear forced' in the Apparel tab clears the forced status on apparel allowing colonists to replace them if needed.

=== Weapons ===
Obviously, you should give your best fighters your best and most skill-based weapons.

For guns:
*[[Bolt-action rifle]]s are good for long-ranged combat in midgame. [[Sniper rifle]]s are more niche due to their low DPS but longer range.
*[[Assault rifle]]s are suited for gunning down mid-long range targets, when handled by good soldiers.
*[[LMG]]s can mow down clustered targets at medium range. Best served in the hands of mid-skilled colonists.
*CQB weaponry such as [[Heavy SMG]]s or [[Pump shotgun]]s are optimal for regular workers for self-defense.
*[[Chain shotgun]]s are not an effective weapon choice on its own due to their horribly short range. However, their high damage output makes them excellent against grouped targets.
*[[Minigun]]s excel at point-blank destruction or crowd control.

Note that it's best that you hold off crafting guns until you have a steady supply of components, as crafting them can quickly chew through your stock of components.

For melee:
*[[Longsword]]s are the must-have weapon for melee colonists, being the highest damage dealing melee weapon in the game.
*[[Spear]]s or [[gladius]] are cheaper but deal less damage, as such you should leave these for lower-skilled colonists.
*[[Mace]]s are cheaper and deal blunt damage, best used by wardens for taking down escaping prisoners or berserk colonists without killing them. It's also more effective at fighting armored enemies as most armor protect poorly against blunt trauma.

=== Prosthetics & Organ Replacements ===
By now you'll probably have colonists missing fingers, toes, arms, legs or other body parts (especially captured people, prone to have lost limbs in combat). If you can you should get a replacement for them. All prostheses except the peg leg can only be bought from traders in the base game.

All prostheses heal like normal limbs, but do not bleed and never scar.

==== Peg leg ====
Your humble peg leg is for replacing a missing foot or leg. All you need is 1 log of [[wood]], medicine and a doctor. At 60% efficiency, it's good for getting a colonist back up and running but not good for anything else. This should only be used if you can't afford better.

==== Simple prostheses ====
[[Simple prosthetic leg]]s work at 85% efficiency, making it good for replacing a few missing toes. 
[[Simple prosthetic arm]]s, in comparison, work at 50% efficiency only; it should only be used to replace a missing hand or arm.

==== Bionics ====
All bionics have 125% efficiency, making them superior to normal parts.

[[Bionic leg]]s give +12.5% moving; two of them means a total of 125% moving. Good for caravaneers, kiters, first respondents or anyone who needs to move fast. 
[[Bionic arm]]s give +12.5% bonus to manipulation; they are good at a large variety of tasks, from shooting to mining to crafting. 
[[Bionic eye]]s give +12.5% on average to sight; it's the only eye replacement so far, meaning you will have to depend on it to replace colonists' missing or damaged eyes. Sight isn't very important for most tasks, with bonuses from sight capping at 100% sight for most tasks (except medicinal or combat tasks), meaning that enhanced sight is obsolete in many cases. Shooting however relies greatly on sight, so you may consider giving your gunners (especially snipers or marksmen) bionic eye replacements before they actually need them. Melee also depends on sight but the impact isn't so large.

==== Combat hands ====
[[Power claw]]s are a good hand replacement for front-line combatants. It incurs a small manipulation penalty, but greatly increases unarmed damage, to the point where it can even rival a normal or good plasteel [[longsword]].

==== Organs ====
You can buy natural organ replacements from traders, or brutally harvest them from colonists and prisoners. Harvesting them gives a mood penalty for the whole colony (except your trusty [[Traits|psychopath]] colonists), a dire mood debuff of -30 to the victim, and also affects Factions relations between yours and the one the victim belongs to. So think twice before harvesting organs from anyone. Never harvest from colonists unless in the direst of situations.

As of 1.0 the only organ replacements are the [[bionic heart]] and [[bionic stomach]], though mods exist to add more bionic organs in-game.

== Combat & defense tactics ==
When you are outnumbered, thinking smart with your combat tactics is also key to not losing colonists.
It's also worth checking out [[Defense tactics]] with more in-depth detail in defensive strategy, [[Defense structures]] for building defenses and [[cover]] for how cover works.

=== Turret mounds ===
Sometimes sandbags and your colonists alone are just not enough. Building "turret mounds" around the map in strategic locations can decimate a good number of raiders before they even get to the colony. Turret mounds are built on a 3x3 block of land:
<pre>O#O
###
O#O</pre>
Where O is a turret and # is a stone wall. Remember, however, that [[turret]]s can be a bit expensive to build and repair. They also require a lot of electricity, so try hooking them up to a wire which is remotely turned on to save your batteries.

Note that you will have to sacrifice some turrets this way as raiders often target the turrets before your colonists due to proximity.

===Diffusing your opponent===
Don't be too arrogant when facing a bombardment of arrows and [[pila]] - each can deal almost an equivalent amount of damage as a [[bolt-action rifle]]. Diffusing your opponent consists of separating the melee attackers from the ranged, and dealing with each of them with your melee and ranged colonists.



===Fighting in the small numbers===
Once you have diffused your opponent's army, their forces will trickle towards you slowly so you can easily deal with each one alone.

====Kiting====
Kiting is the method of using a colonist as bait for an attacker to run towards, and a second colonist taking shots off while the attacker is focused on the first. It does not work if the raider has a personal shield that protects them from bullets. Note: Colonists incapable of violence can still act as bait.
<pre>
R
C |
v
C
</pre>
Diagram of kiting. C is a colonist, R is a raider and -> is the direction the raider is going.

====Splitting====

When two of your colonists are being chased by one person and your weaponry is significantly poorer than the attacker's, you can conduct a split so that the enemy can only chase and down 1 colonist while the other escapes. If one of your colonists has ranged weapons, then you could split and then conduct a kite.

====Rushing====
Rushing is the tactic of sending your best melee attackers to finish off the ranged attackers at the back. The ranged attackers who do not succumb to the attention suppressor could be a pain for your own ranged forces, so it's best to send your melee colonists with [[shield belt]]s to distract the ranged attackers. Before battle, hide your melee attackers behind a nearby hill outside your base so that they remain hidden until all enemy melee attackers are engaged with either the walls or your ranged.

== Colonist management ==

=== [[Training]] ===
[[File:Work priority example.jpg|thumb|Manual priorities for a modestly sized colony. Priorities will often need to be adjusted based on circumstances.]]
You can now dedicate more time to train your colonists' skills so they can perform better.

One way of training them is to have them dedicate all their time to a single task only. In the 'Work' tab, have them prioritize the job type you want them to be good at. Set the priority to 2 and prioritize other more vital tasks (such as Patient or Doctor for medics) at 1.

=== New colonists ===
With more colonists in, the chance of you getting wanderers or escape pods become much rarer. From midgame onward, capturing and recruiting prisoners becomes the main source of new blood. Occasionally, you will still see slaves for sale, wanderers, escape pods or chased refugees, but don't count on them.

==== Attacking enemy bases ====
{{for|a more comprehensive list of strategies|Offense tactics}}

However, now that you have more colonists and better equipment, you have a new option to getting new blood: attacking enemy faction bases.

To do so, create a caravan with your soldiers, food for the journey and medicine to treat the wounded. Once the caravan is ready, set it to go attack an enemy.

Once you succeed in destroying the base, you will be given 24 hours to treat the wounded and rest before your caravan packs up and leaves.

The journey usually takes days so remember to bring enough food. There will also be people and turrets guarding the base so you should have enough soldiers. 12 well-equipped soldiers should be enough to take down any base without much problem, though sometimes you will still lose someone. The base also has food, drugs and medicine. They always have some food, but don't count on them having enough medicine to treat all your injuries.

Sometimes an enemy outpost event will also trigger, generating an outpost that is weaker than a standard base. Defeating this requires less manpower (around 8 will be sufficient) and will allow you to collect payment.

Note that attacking enemies does not seem to make raids happen less often and you will still need defenders back at base.

== [[Animals]] ==
Besides raising them for meat, wool or milk, you can train an animal army for attacking, or a worker band for hauling. You will need food to train animals, which you can easily provide in midgame if nothing bad happens.

Hauling becomes a rather important job in midgame as you gather more and more resources and thus need more manpower to haul them to your warehouses, but can't divert colonists from other jobs to haul.

[[Pig]]s can be farmed for both food and hauling purposes.

For offensive purposes, there are a few choices available.
*[[Wild boar]]s are a decent choice, despite being nerfed somewhat in the latest versions of RimWorld. They hit reasonably hard, reproduce fast allowing you to amass a large army easily, can graze, and are found in many biomes.
*Ostriches are another good pick. They hit hard, are faster and more durable.
*Taming [[cougar]]s, wolves or bears provides great combat power, but will require a constant source of meat to train them.
*Elephants or rhinos are very durable and hit hard individually, though their large size also makes them be hit much more often.

== Mobility ==
Sometimes you will need to move around the world for various reasons, such as attacking an enemy base, trading at a faction base or starting a new base.

=== [[Caravan]]s ===
You can get a group of colonists to form a caravan to travel around the world.

Caravans have a weight capacity which determines how much each character can carry. Each colonist or [[alpaca]] carries 35 kg at most; [[muffalo]]s can carry up to 73.5 kg, while [[dromedary|dromedaries]] carry 70.

Caravans are somewhat slow, taking days, or sometimes seasons to reach their destination; remember to pack enough food that does not rot easily. Animals that can eat grass/ other plants do not need food when grazing is available, but all others do. You can speed it up by having faster colonists or animals in the caravan, this brings up the average speed of the caravan allowing it to travel faster.

Sometimes hostile random events can occur such as an ambush; remember to bring a suitable escort if needed.

=== [[Transport pod]]s ===
This method is extremely fast; it takes up to 1 in-game hour at most to reach its destination.

However, it's also expensive; each pod costs 80 [[steel]] and 1 [[component]], in addition to the [[chemfuel]] required to power it. It also requires research before it becomes buildable. Chemfuel can be produced by researching Refining, allowing the construction of a Refinery that refines chemfuel using wood or organic matter.

Each pod carries 150 kg, just enough for 2 barely clothed humans. If colonists land on an empty tile they will form a caravan. Remember to take into account the carrying capacity of its members as if you put too much inside the pods, the colonists will be unable to carry it all, and will be immobilized.

==== Crossing oceans ====
Unfortunately, there's no way to navigate over the deep sea. If you happened to have chosen your starting point on an island (intentionally or not), the only way to get to the mainland is by launching transport pods.

== Trade ==

You can travel around using [[caravan]]s, as well as [[transport pod]]s. This greatly opens trade opportunities and enables the player to command multiple colonies (options) at once. It also raises the importance of [[Silver]] and economics in the game, as well as, inevitably, [[drugs|drug trafficking]].

For the average colony, earning money mainly relies on either cash crops like [[Smokeleaf]], stone [[sculptures]] or the brutal treatment of [[prisoner]]s. It is important for every colony to select at least one of these options as their main income source, to obtain important resources like [[Steel]].

With the [[comms console]] you are able to call factions to send traders to visit your base. It's better to do so than wait for them to send traders on their own, as they rarely do so without being prompted.

You should also send your own caravans to friendly bases for trade, as they are considerably better-stocked than their traders, and also offer a small discount.

== [[Factions]] ==

Each world has 5 major factions, which you may have already seen before starting (their bases are littered all over the world).

Dealing with them can constitute a large part of running a successful faction.

=== Diplomacy ===
The comms console also allows you to give gifts of silver to factions, improving goodwill.

To do so, call the faction, then select 'Offer gift'. As with trading, select your colonist best at Social to improve the goodwill increase.

Increasing goodwill allows you to call traders at a lower price and to call for immediate military assistance if you need help.

If tribals raid you should pacify them by capturing, healing and releasing their prisoners, as well as gift them. Turning them friendly will stop them from trying to raid your colony with their massive raider forces, which is helpful at long-term survival. You don't want to deal with 100+ angry tribals shooting arrows, throwing pila or clubbing your colonists all at once.

Pirates cannot be reasoned with; releasing their prisoners won't grant any goodwill, they refuse any kind of communication and they live just to make others' lives worse by raiding their bases and stealing their stuff. You can wipe them off the face of this rimworld by destroying ALL their bases but it'll take an immense amount of time.

=== Black Ops ===
Attacking members of other factions will degrade foreign affairs. Foreigners attacked by enraged animals in your territory will affect your relationships, but less.

You can attack a random animal and escape in-between visitors or a trade caravan so that the wild animal attacks them instead of you. If they die, all their belongings become available to you. If some survive, you can medically treat them which counts towards positive interaction between colonies so long as they can leave your map by their own in good health. They won't report any kind of awkward behavior by your people. Have in mind that angry animals due to manhunter will remain roaming until next day, so "saving" them might become difficult, and if there's anybody who is downed but not dead yet, he/she may recover during the night and start moving again. In case the enraged animal is still around, another attack is likely to end the survivor's life for last.

More difficult to perform in Tropical Rainforest biomes or when there's thick snow around due to plants or snow hampering movement.

<gallery widths="200px" heights="200px" class="center" mode="packed">
File:Thrumbo revenge aims at foreign trader caravan.png|'''Thrumbo revenge aiming at foreign trade caravan, awesome timing'''
File:Black Ops success.png|'''Black Ops success'''
File:Foreign trade caravan with boomalope bad idea.png|'''Foreign trade caravan with boomalopes, bad idea.'''
</gallery>

== Other guides ==

*[[Advanced Endgame Guide]]: Ending your colony on YOUR terms
*[[Base Building Guide]] - building a successful base at any stage

{{nav/guides}}
[[Category:Guides]]

File:Work priority example.jpg

2020-02-03T18:05:13Z

Mayoculpa: Manual work priorities for a modestly sized colony. Squares outlined in red mean the colonist's skill is very low; they will work slowly, produce poor quality items or be unable to perform some tasks. Squares outlined in gold mean the colonist's skill is very high.

== Summary ==
Manual work priorities for a modestly sized colony. Squares outlined in red mean the colonist's skill is very low; they will work slowly, produce poor quality items or be unable to perform some tasks. Squares outlined in gold mean the colonist's skill is very high.

Spike trap

2020-02-03T17:49:39Z

Mayoculpa:

__NOTOC__
<onlyinclude>{{infobox main|security|
|name = Spike trap
|image = DeadfallTrap.png
|description = Five spikes under tension, connected to a touch-activated trigger. When the victim disturbs the trigger, the spikes spring forthm ''[sic]'' and strike the victim. Since it is hidden in the surrounding terrain, it cannot be placed adjacent to other traps. Animals can sense these when calm.
|type = Security
|placeable = Yes
|size = 1||1
|hp = 40
|beauty = -4
|flammability = 0
|buy = {{icon|metal|50}}
|sell = {{icon|metal|38}}
}}</onlyinclude>
A '''spike trap''' is a single-use trap that deals heavy damage upon triggered. The trigger chance is 100%. The damage can be fatal to humans or large animals if it is made of good materials and is less likely to be triggered by small animals. The base damage varies according to the material it was built from. The damage type is sharp melee, which strikes mainly on the head and torso and usually causes bleeding.

[[File:Spike trap accidental step.jpg|400px|thumb|center]] When a colonist or prisoner triggers the trap, a yellow envelope alert appears to notify the player.

Colonists and friendlies are aware of their location and will go around them if possible, though if they walk through them they still have a very slight chance (0.4%) of triggering it. Non-manhunter animals can also sense the trap.

Traps must be placed in a clear area with no other traps or obstacles near it.

== Statistics ==

Note that the actual armor penetration is much lower since damage is applied multiple times rather than in one single instance.

{| {{STDT| sortable c_25 text-center}}
! Material !! Cost !! Damage !! HP !! Work to build !! Armor Pen
|-
| style="text-align:left;" | {{Icon Small|Steel}} Steel || 35 || 100 || 40 || 54 || 150%
|-
| style="text-align:left;" | {{Icon Small|Plasteel}} Plasteel || 35 || 110 || 112 || 118 || 165%
|-
| style="text-align:left;" | {{Icon Small|Wood}} Wood || 35 || 45 || 16 || 38 || 68%
|-
| style="text-align:left;" | {{Icon Small|Uranium}} Uranium || 35 || 110 || 100 || 102 || 165%
|-
| style="text-align:left;" | {{Icon Small|Silver}} Silver || 350 || 85 || 28 || 54 || 128%
|-
| style="text-align:left;" | {{Icon Small|Gold}} Gold || 350 || 75 || 24 || 48 || 112%
|-
| style="text-align:left;" | {{Icon Small|Granite_Blocks}} Granite || 35 || 65 || 68 || 323 || 98%
|-
| style="text-align:left;" | {{Icon Small|Limestone_Blocks}} Limestone || 35 || 60 || 62 || 323 || 90%
|-
| style="text-align:left;" | {{Icon Small|Marble_Blocks}} Marble || 35 || 60 || 48 || 296 || 90%
|-
| style="text-align:left;" | {{Icon Small|Sandstone_Blocks}} Sandstone || 35 || 50 || 56 || 269 || 75%
|-
| style="text-align:left;" | {{Icon Small|Slate_Blocks}} Slate || 35 || 60|| 52 || 323 || 90%
|-
| style="text-align:left;" | {{Icon Small|Jade}} Jade|| 30 || 100 || 20 || 267 || 150%
|}

== Version history ==

Prior to Beta 19, they were called the Deadfall trap. They were more expensive and dealt less damage, but could be placed close together, as well as rearmed instead of being consumed upon triggering.

{{nav|security|wide}}
[[Category:Security]]

File:Spike trap accidental step.jpg

2020-02-03T17:46:10Z

Mayoculpa: Colonists and tamed animals have a small chance to accidentally trigger a spike trap when walking over it. Building doors that allow quick access can make this less likely.

== Summary ==
Colonists and tamed animals have a small chance to accidentally trigger a spike trap when walking over it. Building doors that allow quick access can make this less likely.

Geothermal generator

2020-02-03T17:26:02Z

Mayoculpa:

<onlyinclude>{{infobox main|building|
|name = Geothermal generator
|image = GeothermalPlant.png|160px{{!}}Geothermal generator
|description = Produces electricity from geothermal steam geysers. Must be placed on a geyser.
|type = Buildings
|type2 = Power
|placeable = Yes
|size = 6|6
|hp = 500
|power = + 3600
|buy = {{icon|metal|400}} {{icon|component|8}}
}}</onlyinclude>

{{Info|The '''geothermal generator''' is a power generator that once [[research]]ed, can be built on top of a steam geyser to convert natural heat into electrical power, providing a constant 3600W. Steam geysers are randomly generated per map, sometimes close to each other, others scattered towards the edges or center. Colonies are often seen built in their proximity from early days for future benefit.}}

It can be built indoors, but this causes [[Temperature|heat]] buildup and eventually [[fire]]. A prevention method is to leave an open path towards [[Environment#Openness|outside]] or intentionally [[No roof area|unroof]] the setup. [[Vent]]s can be used to pipe the heat into other rooms. An open door will also release some of the heat from its room. However, in cold [[biomes]], the increased temperature becomes beneficial as heat is needed instead. The amount of heat it provides is only a little more than a normal [[heater]].

Geothermal generators have a [[beauty]] score of -30.

If closed under roof it can heat up to 8 rooms of 6x6 placed symmetrically around it with a 1 tile corridor in between.

A geothermal generator and 2 batteries can power a sun lamp and full set of [[hydroponics basin]]s.

{{nav|power|wide}}
[[Category:Buildings]]
[[Category:Power]]

Colony Building Guide

2020-02-03T17:20:55Z

Mayoculpa: /* Power network */

{{Image wanted}}
{{TOCright}}

This guide is the ultimate go-to guide to building your [[colony]], for all stages of the game.

== General colony design principles ==

An efficient base allows your colonists to ''get stuff done'' and ''stay happy''. They must be able to reach their assigned jobs in time, and the base needs to be pleasing and comfortable to work and live in. The base should also be ''secure'', but that is probably the easiest part.

=== Getting stuff done: lowering foot traffic ===
It is not possible to make all places easily accessible, so you need to decide what spots are more important, and lay out the base accordingly.

The most important principle here is to '''not put the living quarters in the center of the base'''. Bedrooms should be at the edge of the colony: they are not needed during the day and will be an obstacle.

Also, it is difficult to plan ahead how many beds you will need, unless you make a hard commitment to limit the head count of your colony (and to kill or sell everybody else...). If your living quarters have other buildings surrounding them, it becomes impossible to add more beds without creating an entirely new housing zone. This quickly leads to a cluttered base layout that is difficult to defend.

The recreation and dining area should also be off center, probably close to the sleeping area. Recreation and eating happens mostly in the morning and evening (before and after night time). Colonists visit this place only very sparingly during the day.

This principle does, however, not apply to every room that happens to have beds in it – the hospital and prison can, and should, be more centrally placed. Hospitals and prisons require frequent visits, to tend to and feed patients and "guests". Prison breaks are more easily contained if the fugitive is in the middle of your base.

Make sure that related areas are close: kitchen, freezer, warehouse and factory floor. Some rooms are ''very'' frequently accessed from the outside (the freezer is one example). Provide short walkways to these places.

=== Make it pretty ===

Colonists do not like to exist in a cluttered and ugly environment. They do not want to walk through disgusting places all the time. For example, do not put a dumping stockpile next to a Geothermal generator next to the main walkway of the colony.

Ugliness that is unavoidable can be countered with ''decor bombing''. Make some really expressive sculptures, and put them right into the mess. You can spread a few ''large sculptures'' throughout your main stockpile, for example. This will make it beauty-neutral or even "beautiful". Like all furniture, sculptures do not have to be kept roofed or indoors, so they can be placed anywhere. Smoothed floors and walls, as well as carpets, are an effective source of beauty (+2 beauty per tile), but somewhat work and resource intensive to make.

Comfortable furniture is very important. Keep a good carpenter (with high "construction" skill), and have them craft all the furniture in the base (especially the beds and chairs). Put dining chairs in front of all workstations (they are both "beautiful" ''and'' "comfortable"); they will not make anyone work faster, but they give a mood bonus while anybody is using them.

With regards to construction work, it is best to let your most capable constructors prioritize on the "artisan work", ie furniture with a quality rating that matters. The second league of constructors can do things like lay carpets, smooth floors and build walls. These structures do not have a quality rating – the contruction skill only influences success chance and work speed. Sadly it is difficult to impossible without the [https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=725219116 requisite mods] to direct your colonists in the required way.

=== Safety first ===

Securing the base is not difficult, as long as your floor plan is compact. You can simply surround the entire complex with walls, keeping a deliberate weak spot that enemies will most probably attack from. If you give enemies the opportunity to enter your base, they will take it, even if tactically unsound. If there are long hallways, you can use the doorways as natural cover, by having one shooter stand in each doorway and shoot down the hall at incoming attackers. This is an effective maneuver that can contain even mid-size raids and does not require any purpose-built defenses.

On higher difficulties, advanced tactics like "killboxes" and turret spam might be in order.

In general you want the attackers come ''to you'', and not fight them outside of your base in the open. Siege crews and lone pyromaniacs should be lured close to your base before engaging them.

== Base Types ==

There are different ways to build your base.

{| class="wikitable"
!
! Superstructure base
! Town-like settlement
! Mountain base
|-
! Description
| Put everything in one large building.
|| Build everything in separated buildings, just like a small town.
|| In mountainous maps, dig inside the mountains.
|-
! Pros
|
*Convenient
*Saves building materials and some space
*More resistant against [[Events#Toxic Fallout|toxic fallout]]
*Improved temperature control
*Shortest walking paths
||
*Very flexible
*Does not require large patches of continuous land
*Best satisfies Outdoors need
||
*Best temperature control
*Easy to defend
*Immune to mortar strikes
*Leaves more soil available for farming
*Saves most building materials
*Most resistant against [[Events#Toxic Fallout|toxic fallout]]

|-
! Cons
|
*Fires can spread all over the base if flammable materials are used
*Requires a large, continuous area of buildable land, making it not ideal for swamp [[biomes]]
*Less flexible
*Less able to satisfy Outdoors need
||
*Requires most space and building materials overall
*Requires more planning to defend
*Worst temperature control
*Longest walking paths
||
*'''Infestations can happen within base'''
*Least flexible
*It takes a '''lot''' of time to mine out separate rooms and clear stone chunks
*Least able to satisfy Outdoors need
|}

[[File:Example base layout.png|frame|left|Example floor plan for a "superstructure" base with an efficient layout of zones to keep walking distances short. Arrows indicate where items are commonly transported. Room sizes are not necessarily to scale, and many variations of this layout are reasonable. The "killbox" is not mandatory; with a layout like this, enemies can also be lured into the long corridors and shot at from the doorways. The "clean room" would include hospital beds and a kitchen.]]
{{clr}}

== Base Structures ==

Different structures suit the different needs of your colony. The maps generate with old structures around, sometimes just walls and others are squares/rectangles just missing some sections. If conveniently located, these can work perfectly as starting points, reducing considerably the initial workload of characters with low-level skills and reducing the beginning stresses when you still have nothing.

=== Storage ===

Currently, the first room we need to build is a storeroom, as items deteriorate if left outdoors or exposed. Place a stockpile zone covering most of the room except for the tiles adjacent to the doors as sometimes pawns may accidentally drop an item in the doorway, leaving it open and insecure. You can have multiple smaller stockpile zones set to allow specific different items to better organize them. Your storeroom should be built close to the workshop to minimize travel times for raw materials.

Give special consideration toward explosive items such as [[chemfuel]] or [[mortar shell]]s as they may blow up and set ablaze your entire stock. Place them separate in a stone made compartment and far from the exterior of the base to prevent [[doomsday rocket launcher]]s from hitting the items as they can pierce through walls. Place a [[firefoam popper]] here to protect against fires igniting your munitions.

In mid-game, you can add orbital trade beacons to sell your stuff to trade ships.

=== Barracks ===

The barracks is a room where multiple pawns share a single sleeping space. This is easy to host your colonists early in the game, but it proves inconvenient as walking pawns will disturb the sleep of other occupants, and non-lover pawns dislike sharing a room. Furniture such as bedrolls or beds improve their comfort. The better the furniture, the faster they wake up and become more productive during their schedules. You should upgrade your colony to provide private bedrooms once the basics are covered, and you can convert the barracks into something else such as a hospital or prison barracks.

You can upgrade a barracks with positive mood modifiers by placing sculptures, nice flooring, temperature control utilities and high-quality furniture like dressers and end tables which increase the comfort of many beds at once.

Colonists like to eat as soon as they wake up. You may place a table and chairs inside at the beginning, but try to reinstall them elsewhere when you can as colonists entering to eat will disturb the sleep of others. Build the dining room close to the barracks once the sleeping quarters are done.

=== Bedrooms ===
{{see also|Space}}

[[File:Bedroom.png|thumb|right|General purpose bedroom, suitable for all phases of the game. Temperature is equalized with a hallway to the right. The room has enough space for a temporary production building.]]

Bedrooms are private sleeping spaces which removes the "disturbed sleep" mood penalty caused by other pawns, and provides better mood bonuses than a barracks. Couples will want to sleep together and won't disturb the sleep of their partners. However, they will need a double bed.

As you expand, you would want to upgrade your bedrooms in this way:
* To increase comfort, give the bed an [[end table]], and put a [[dresser]] in the room. Higher quality furniture provides better comfort, while higher quality beds increase the ''rest effectiveness''. Have your most capable builder furnish the bedrooms.
** Around 25 tiles of floor space, this leaves enough room to put temporary production buildings in the bedroom, useful during base expansion. Any bigger is less efficient because it increases cost of flooring.
** Standing lamp
** Beauty items, such as flower pot or sculpture; more is better, but do not go overboard.
** High quality flooring, such as carpets. This increases beauty. If you can smooth the floors (and walls), usually in a mountain base, this is always preferable to carpet flooring: it gives the same beauty value, but is not flammable and much cheaper to build. You need a good constructor, because smoothing floors takes a lot of work.
** Heating and/or cooling; it is far easier to heat or cool the hallways instead, and use [[vent]]s to equalize the temperature with the bedrooms.

Colonists often carry a meal with them, and without a table, they will resort to eating their breakfast on the floor and receive a mood debuff. Depending on your base overall layout, you may:
* Build the Dining room close.
* Build one set of table and chairs outdoors near many bedrooms.
* Place tables and chairs inside. However, make sure to turn off the "Gathering Spot" option of tables, as others seeking [[recreation]] may enter someone else's bedroom and disturb their sleep.

==== Special cases ====

"Ascetic" colonists want an unimpressive bedroom. The best way to achieve this is to have no flooring or beauty items, and make the room smaller. You should still provide end tables and dressers for them, because even ascetics like to sleep comfortably. A hardcore method could be to leave a desiccated animal corpse inside, dropping impressiveness by a huge amount.

"Greedy" colonists are initially harder to please, though as you expand and become richer providing impressive bedrooms should be no problem.

"Jealous" colonists are the hardest to manage, especially if you have more than one. Using only standard bedrooms of equal quality is the best approach to eventually make everybody happy in this situation.

{{clear}}

=== Conjoined facilities ===

The Freezer, Kitchen, Dining Room and Recreation Room are often adjacent to one another. The kitchen should be isolated from the other rooms to reduce dirt caused by walking in. The dining room and kitchen should be attached to the freezer so it isn't necessary to have to pass through the kitchen to get a meal.

Parties and wedding ceremonies take place at Gathering Spots where chairs are detected, and since pawns don't eat during these times, their proximity to the freezer is convenient to go get a meal and come back to the tables.

==== Freezer ====

[[File:Freezer coolers placement.png|thumb|right|400px|Simple freezer built along a mountain, with coolers inside.]]

[[File:Special freezer.png|thumb|right|This freezing room has the coolers placed in the center instead of at the edges. Only the center tile is unroofed. The green area shows the roof, this is also the "cold" area of the freezer room. The center, unroofed, tile is at outdoors temperature.]]

The Freezer is a stockpile room to preserve [[raw food]], plant matter and fresh animal corpses. Across all stages, the freezer is an indispensable facility, because meat and prepared meals spoil very quickly, and it is impossible to keep a fresh food stockpile without a controlled freezing area.

In most places, this is accomplished with the addition of [[cooler]]s set to freezing temperatures. Even though food freezes at {{Temperature|0}} you should have your freezer at least set at {{Temperature|-5}} since it will gain heat whenever a colonist comes in. In cold places, on the other hand, you may choose to save power by disabling the coolers, and instead let cold air inside through vents.

It is viable for [[butcher spot]]s or [[butcher table]]s to be placed inside the freezer, as butchering is a short, intermittent activity for your cook, so the work speed penalty is not very impactful. Other workstations, such as [[crafting spot]]s should be placed right outside to avoid the work penalty while benefiting from the proximity of the ingredients. 
In any case, do '''not''' put your kitchen stove in this room. Besides the work speed penalty, the cooking stove needs to be in a clean environment which the freezer does not have, due to heavy foot traffic and blood stains from dead animal bodies.

Consider making an exclusive stockpile with high priority at the front of your freezer which only allows [[meal]]s, so that cooks will always store them closer to ease retrieval. The same planning can be applied for two more stockpiles at the front of your freezer for meat and veggies, to speed up ingredient pick-ups (colonists assigned to hauling and trained animals will move ingredients from the back of the freezer to the front).

[[Nutrient paste dispenser]]s act as walls. They are usually placed with their hoppers in the freezer and activation spot in the dining room.

Cooler placement is of crucial importance, as these devices have a very low 100HP, making them the weakest point in a wall from where raiders can break in easily and most likely ignite your food supply. Because of this, one of the best ways to protect your coolers is to place them facing a mountain, if there is one nearby, or to build a wall around their hot side. In both cases, make sure to remove any roofs. If your base is in a cold biome, another option is to direct their hot sides into your living space to help heat it. It is common to make the freezer with double walls to increase insulation. The freezer is vulnerable to [[Events#Solar Flare|solar flares]]. In freezing biomes, food still needs to be kept from spoilage to exposure. In which case, wall it off and add [[vent]]s to the exterior to let in the cold air.

It is common to make airlocks(a door, a short space, and then another door leading to the freezer itself)in the entrance of the freezer to reduce temperature exchange. Since colonists and haulers will enter this room quite often, build [[autodoor]]s once available to both speed up entry/exit and minimize temperature change.

===== Positioning =====

Because the freezer is a special kind of stockpile area, and relies on coolers, which are somewhat fixed installations, it is not easily moved in your base. This means you need to plan carefully where you put it.

The freezer needs three main entrances:
* One leading directly outdoors, or with a short outdoors connection. Dead animal bodies and produce from your farm fields and pasture will be delivered this way.
* One leading to the kitchen. It should probably be right next door.
* One leading to the main warehouse. This is to take leather from butchered animals into storage, as well as moving slow spoiling stuff such as corn, smokeleaf and healroot between the freezer and warehouse.

In addition, the freezer will need to be expanded as population increases, meaning that you should leave one of its sides unoccupied by other structures so that in the future you can increase the size of it without needing to deconstruct other rooms. The freezer should not be too large, because that will require more coolers, and also increase the walking distance to gather and redistribute supplies.

This practically demands that the freezer is at the periphery of your base. If you place it there, you can also increase the floor space when your colony grows. Because you will be storing your harvests here, it is also wise to position this room in close proximity to your fields to shorten hauling jobs, with doors also pointing towards your growing zones.

Note that however, the freezer does not need direct access to the perimeter of your base! A single unroofed tile is enough to vent the exhaust from up to four coolers (it counts as an outdoors tile as far as the game is concerned, if the four tiles perpendicular to it are walls, or wall-like tiles). Only in a mountain base you need to consider the exhaust spots of the freezer room more carefully.

Be very careful when you dig or build in or around this room. Leaving even a single gap in a room wall will raise the temperature well above the freezing point, and this is easily missed because there is no direct visual indication of the room temperature. It can lead to massive amounts of food spoiling if undetected.

It is tempting to dig into a mountain to create a freezing room, but keep in mind that [[infestation]]s can then spawn in this room. This can actually be a good thing, because eradicating an infestation right inside the freezer room is tactically easy, and it will leave all the filth and dead insects in probably the best location in your base. Your food supply will, however, be temporarily disrupted in such a scenario.

==== Kitchen ====

[[File:Kitchen area.png|thumb|right|Kitchen area with short walkways for the colonists and separate meal freezer. Autodoors are used in chokepoints. The meal freezer and dining room could, and probably would, be more distant in the base. This layout tries to minimize foot traffic in the kitchen, but it is difficult to avoid.]]

The kitchen is where your colonists cook raw food into [[meals]] to improve colony life. The kitchen should be clean to avoid [[ailments#food poisoning|food poisoning]], which can be attained by the following means:
* Zone out colony animals.
* [[Sterile tile]]s for flooring.
* Place your doors so that your dining room has a shorter path to the freezer than walking through the kitchen

You should build your kitchen right next to your Freezer.

The [[butcher table]] is better placed elsewhere, due to its inherent uncleanliness added with the filth created by butchering. However, it should be placed near the freezer, preferably in a spot in the warehouse right next to it, as both ingredients (dead animals) and products (meats) need to be stored inside the freezer, having the butcher work there greatly reduces travel time. If you plan to make a lot of [[Kibble]], create an extra butcher table outside of the freezer for that task, to avoid the work speed penalty from the cold.

[[Shelf|Shelves]] or small stockpiles can really improve cooking efficiency when placed right next to your stoves. Set one to accept berries and vegetables only, and another to accept meats which would usually be cooked before they spoil. Put those shelves on high priority, so they will be replenished by your haulers and saving time for the cook. If you take this approach, set up the bills on the stove so that the products (meals) are ''dropped on the floor'' by the cook, and not delivered to a stockpile immediately. Prepared meals will stack next to the stove and can then be delivered in bulk to the freezer or fridge, close to the dining hall.

It is usually a good idea to add a little art since colonists tend to stay there for a long time. It should be temperature controlled for better working speed.

Since the kitchen is placed near the freezer, some crafting stations which include plants ingredients may be also placed in here. The [[brewery]] and [[drug lab]] are good choices. Also, if you making [[chemfuel]] with food you may place the [[biofuel refinery]] here.

==== Dining room ====

Dining rooms, at their simplest, are simply rooms where you put tables and chairs for colonists to dine in. Still, tables are marked as Gather Spots by default. Colonists will hang out here to relax and also hold their parties and weddings here. Expect your dining room to be pretty crowded during meal times, especially after a party or marriage ceremony, so have enough chairs for at least half your colony.

Colonists, as well as visitors, will search in a 20 tile radius for a table to eat at. For this reason, a dining room should be built as close as possible to the freezer/food storage so that your colonists will actually use the dining room, instead of eating on the floor of the storage, giving them a -3 mood debuff. This is especially true for larger freezers, in which colonists retrieving food from the far end may simply give up searching for a table and eat on the floor.

Since colonists spend a lot of time here, increase their mood by decorating your dining room with [[sculptures]], [[plant pot]]s or quality furniture. Having an impressive dining room also provides a small mood bonus to colonists who eat there.

==== Rec room ====

You should have a wide variety of [[recreation]] sources so your colonists don't get bored repeatedly throwing horseshoes at a pin, or wandering around aimlessly. Putting all of them in a room also provides a mood bonus after a colonist uses the facilities inside, depending on the impressiveness of the room.

In the early game, all you'll need is a horseshoes pin somewhere in the colony, and colonists will proceed to use it when they are bored.

Once you reach midgame, you can afford more recreation facilities such as chess tables or billiards tables, or [[Tube television]]s, which provide different kinds of recreation for additional variety. In addition, you can also obtain additional recreation sources from exotic goods traders, such as [[telescope]]s or [[Megascreen television|megascreen]] televisions, which offers more recreation than the craftable tube and flatscreen televisions.

Similarly to the dining room, decorating it can improve the mood bonus from using the room.

=== Courtyard ===

[[File:Courtyard.png|400px|thumb|right|Small courtyard that serves both as a dining room and recreation room.]]

Most colonists like getting outside once in a while. In superstructure bases, you may consider building an unroofed courtyard where colonists can get some fresh air.

You can use it as a common area, putting recreation items and dining tables for colonists to use, making the courtyard behave exactly the same as an unroofed dining/recreation room. Alternatively, it may also be used as a place to put your [[mortar]]s as putting them in the middle helps reduce the impact of their minimum range blind spot. Also consider keeping [[transport pod]]s here, but place them in a separate unroofed area as they are not beautiful to look at.

{{clr}}

=== Laboratory ===

You may want to have a room dedicated to research, with [[hi-tech research bench]]es, [[multi-analyzer]]s to increase research speed and unlock new research. Room cleanliness affects research speed, so place sterile tiles to keep the room clean. For even better cleanliness, restrict the lab to your researchers and janitors only, reducing traffic and hence the amount of dirt in the room. Also consider placing some art here and building a comfortable chair, as your researcher will be spending a lot of time here.

=== Workshop ===

Workshops are places where you put all your crafting stations and benches. You should put them near your warehouse so your colonists can spend less time hauling the needed resources to the workshop for crafting, while keeping them separate due to the beauty penalty of raw materials. Also remember to put chairs of any sort at the interaction spot so your colonists won't have to keep standing while crafting.

The [[tool cabinet]] is handy for increasing productivity of your craftsmen. The work speed bonus is quite valuable, and each bench may benefit from two tool cabinets.

It is an excellent idea to '''put decorations such as sculptures inside the workshop''', as a beautiful environment gives up to +15 mood, improving colonists' productivity and even allowing for the occasional mental inspiration.

=== Armory ===

You can choose to have a dedicated area to store your weapons and armor. If so, put it far away from your prison so that prisoners do not have ready access to dangerous weapons during prison breaks. Place it near your entrance so that colonists can equip themselves on the way to defend your base.

Ammunition, on the other hand, is best stored deeper in the base, preferably far from anywhere else in case of unexpected events such as fires.

=== Hospital ===
[[File:Hospital_example_midgame.png|400px|thumb|right|Hospital with sterile tiles, hospital beds with vital monitors, decorations and megascreen TVs facing the beds.]]

[[File:Compact hospital layout.png|thumb|right|An efficient hospital layout. Dresser and end tables provide maximum comfort. Two vitals monitors cover all 8 beds. Flatscreen TVs provide extra recreation for the patients. Medical supplies are close by, the room is well lit and accessible from all sides. The vents equalize room temperature with the hallway. Up to six more beds could be installed here rather easily: four in place of the end tables, and one each to the left and right of the vitals monitors; all beds will have dresser, TV and monitor coverage.]]

Dedicated hospitals are more of a mid-game thing when you have enough resources to build the specialized equipment used in them. [[Hospital bed]]s provide a boost to treatment quality, immunity gain speed, and healing speed, meaning colonists will recover faster from illnesses and injuries, making them the choice for hospitals. The [[vitals monitor]] brings even better boosts to treatment and immunity gain, so when available it's recommended that you put them down near your hospital beds.

Hospitals should be built somewhere where colonists can quickly bring their downed comrades to treat them. Keep doors open, or use [[autodoor]]s so they don't obstruct colonists' access. If you need to, you can build more elsewhere in the base.

Hospitals should have [[sterile tile]]s as flooring as they provide a slight cleanliness buff that can increase surgery success chance and reduce wound infection chance. Keep in mind that wounded colonists will bleed out considerably, so you may want to assign another colonist to specifically clean the hospital to improve their treatment chances.

Store your medicine in or near your hospital using [[shelf|shelves]] so your doctors can quickly grab them to patch up colonists before they bleed to death. Sometimes just that little distance can make the difference between life and death.

[[Dresser]] and [[end table]]s ''do increase'' the comfort of the hospital bed. The furniture does not affect medical treatment, but improves the mood of the colonists while they are recovering. The downside is that each end table blocks a spot with vitals monitor coverage, but this is not a problem until one needs to squeeze the absolute maximum number of beds into the hospital.

Decorating hospitals to make them beautiful can give colonists inside a great mood boost (max +15, plus impressive room stats). This is good, especially considering that some colonists will stay in the hospital for some time, such as the severely injured, incapacitated or sick.

To provide recreation, you may also install televisions into your hospitals. Patients lying in hospital beds within the viewing area will watch TV to entertain themselves when they are bored, and you won't need colonists coming to cheer them up as their only recreation source.

==== Patient rooms ====

If you have even more resources and space, for example in lategame, you can build a separate room for each colonist. While they don't mind sleeping with others in a hospital, they do get disturbed by them walking around, and dirt can more easily affect cleanliness as well.

==== Operating theater ====

You can build a separate room to accommodate colonists who will undergo surgery, to make sure that colonists undergo medical operations in the cleanest of places.

Your operating theater should be forbidden at all times except when someone is about to have surgery. This prevents colonists from tracking dirt or blood into it, staining it.

==== Vet area ====

Consider building animal sleeping spots with their own animal area near your medicine stockpile that you can restrict wounded animals to. That way, they can be treated as fast as possible.

Medical treatment for animals benefits from cleanliness as well, but not proper hospital beds (and in turn, vitals monitors). Once you enter midgame, sterile flooring should be easy enough to get.

=== Prison ===

[[File:Prison_example_midgame.png|400px|thumb|right|Mid-late game prison blocks from A17, partially filled. Each cell has a table with a chair, a bed, decorations and a chess table with a chair (for decoration). Generosity like this is well-appreciated and rewarded with prisoners joining your colony. Note that the doors open towards the rest of the base (downwards).]]

==== Prison barracks ====

In the early game you can simply convert any existing ruins into a makeshift prison barracks or build a simple prison hut which holds all the prisoners you capture. Try not to build it too far away from your main structures, otherwise it becomes harder to catch escaping prisoners. Another option is to mark one of your colonist's bedrooms as a temporary prison while you build another bedroom or a proper prison.

You should include tables and chairs for prisoners to use. This will improve their mood, which by extension lowers their chances of mental breaks and improves their recruitment speed.

==== Prison cells ====

Like colonists, [[prisoner]]s will also suffer from the mood penalties associated with being kept together in a prison barracks. In addition, prison breaks are more serious should they happen, for every prisoner locked up in the same room will simultaneously break out, while prisoners in different cells may choose not to join. Thus, you should keep them separated.

Each cell should have a table with a chair, a bed, and a light source. This is the bare minimum you need for a prisoner to be decently kept. Decorating the cell and making them bigger also increases mood bonuses for easier recruitment. They can't use any recreation items put in the cell, nor do they have a recreation need, so don't bother with recreational items other than for room impressiveness.

Prisons should have doors facing towards your base, so escaping prisoners will go towards your base instead of away, giving your wardens more time to deal with a break.

==== Holding cell ====

A larger cell with more beds. It should be only be used when your prison cells are overflowing. Put your less important prisoners inside them while assigning your more valuable prisoners into the cells.

=== Multipurpose rooms ===

These are more of an early to early-midgame thing that you can use before you get dedicated structures erected, such as hospitals or bigger prisons. Yet, these can still prove useful sometimes, like when your freezers or warehouses overflow, or you need somewhere to house an influx of injured or sick colonists.

This is rather simple; just make an empty room, along with suitable temperature control. You can add beds if you intend on someone living in it (be it colonists or prisoners), which you can uninstall and tuck away in a corner when unused.

=== Backup ===

There are many types of ways you can set up buildings on your map to possibly save your colonists' lives in dire situations:
*'''Shelters:''' Building small rooms with emergency supplies can save your colonists from enraged animals. Thick enough walls (at least 4 layers) can stop raiders from killing your colonists hiding inside.
*'''[[Nutrient paste dispenser]]s''': When food is running low or you forecast that it will, a paste dispenser can significantly slow down food consumption by efficiently converting raw foods into nutrient paste.
* Strategically placed stockpiles of wood can provide heating, for example during a solar flare or cold snap. Mark these wood stacks "forbidden", so your colonists will not use them during regular operation.

== Production ==

You will also need various buildings to produce or manufacture the stuff that your colonists need.

=== Crops ===

[[File:SunlampHydroponics.png|thumb|300px|right|Sun lamp illuminating crops grown in hydroponics basins. With this configuration you can fit 24 basins under 1 sun lamp for a total of 96 plants grown.]]

{{See also|Food production}}

==== Crop fields ====

Crop fields are rather simple. Just set up a growing zone, designate the desired plant type and growers will automatically go and grow the plants.

You need to carefully check the soil fertility before marking out your areas.
*Stony soil looks quite similar to dirt at first glance, but has a greatly reduced fertility, reducing the growing speed of plants.
*Rich soil on the other hand, is visibly darker and has improved fertility, making it suitable for slow growing plants such as [[devilstrand]].

You will need to keep most animals from eating your crops. You can zone out the area from your tamed animals, but you will need to build walls to keep out wild animals. If you're not building a greenhouse, then watch out for your builders automatically roofing this "room".

==== Greenhouses ====

Enclosed areas that grow crops with the aid of temperature control, [[sun lamp]]s and possibly [[hydroponics basin]]s. They allow you to continue growing crops regardless of soil or weather conditions. Note that greenhouses are subject to power draining events like [[Events#Solar Flare|solar flares]], knocking out lamps, heaters and hydroponics. All plants in a basin without power will slowly take damage until they are destroyed. So beware, solar flares or damage to the power grid can destroy whole hydroponics crops.

=== Mining ===

In early-midgame you just need to select mineral outcrops and designate them, and miners will proceed to dig out the minerals.

Once all visible mineral outcrops are mined, you can continue to mine resources in a couple ways.

==== Strip mining ====

If you have more mountains or rocks which you can mine, you can strip mine them by mining out long tunnels with 2 tiles between each other. This allows you to see all tiles in the mountain. Hopefully, you will hit a mineral deposit.

Covering up your mine to prevent infestations is a good idea, using cheap materials such as [[wood]] it is possible to completely seal up the mines at a low cost. Alternatively, set up defenses at the mine entrance and just farm the insects.

==== Deep drills ====

After research you will unlock the [[deep drill]] and the [[ground-penetrating scanner]] for use.

It is not recommended to start deep drilling without an active scanner as you cannot see the locations of mineral locations.

Some deposits will be directly underneath your base. You can deconstruct or relocate buildings to give access to your drills. Be careful when you mine in colonists' bedrooms as they can easily disturb sleep. Turn off the mineral scanner when you aren't placing new drills, and beware that bugs can be attracted by the drills. Be prepared to deal with infestations near or close to the drill.

=== Animals ===

[[Animals]] are an extremely useful asset to the colony. They provide a variety of products, from raw food materials (meat, eggs or milk), to wool, which is an excellent insulator against both heat and cold. Moreover, they can be used in combat or as pack animals in a [[caravan]]. In fact, some larger and more intelligent animals can be trained as haulers, such as dogs, freeing up colonists for other tasks.

==== Barn ====

Animals are happy to sleep anywhere as long as it's not too hot or cold. Otherwise, a temperature-controlled barn with animal sleeping spots is necessary to keep the animals comfy.

Building [[animal sleeping box]]es or [[animal bed]]s can help animals rest faster, though this doesn't really do much and is not cost efficient.

==== Chemfuel farming ====

[[Boomalope]]s are unique in the fact that they can produce [[chemfuel]]. This can be used to power generators, used as [[transport pod]] fuel or made into [[mortar shell]]s.

Due to their explosive nature, they won't be attacked by predators, so you can let them roam freely without much danger. Keeping them confined is dangerous as the death of one boomalope can injure others, and if you don't intervene the other boomalopes will die, exploding and causing a chain reaction.

== Power ==

=== Solar power ===

[[File:Solar wind setup.png|thumb|420px|right|Wind turbines with solar generators packed underneath the exclusion zones.]]

[[Solar generator]]s provide power only during the day except during eclipses. It provides a constant 1700W, quite a decent figure, but still shouldn't be fully relied on.

=== Wind power ===

[[Wind turbine]]s provide unstable power day and night. It can provide up to 3450W or nothing at all, and rarely hits its peak production.

It requires plenty of open space for maximum efficiency, and any obstacles in its area reduce efficiency. To prevent trees from growing and obstructing the turbines, put down floors, grow crops underneath the turbines or fill in the gaps with solar generators.

=== Fueled generation ===
{{main|Chemfuel powered generator}}

You can build the [[wood-fired generator]] which runs on wood, or the [[chemfuel powered generator]] which runs on [[chemfuel]], constantly providing 1000W of power. It is a good idea to have some of these as a backup power source, or even as your main source in biomes that are loaded with forests that will replenish themselves, such as in the tropics or temperate forests.

If the biome provides enough wood, the ''wood-fired generator'' is an excellent choice for establishing a colony. The wood from about two trees will power the generator for three days, giving the colony uninterrupted power to run all important early-game facilities (freezer, lamps and some work tables).

Chemfuel is significantly more efficient than wood, so once you research the [[refinery]] it becomes better to refine wood into chemfuel before usage as fuel.

Both fueled generators will burn fuel at the full rate, even if no power is consumed. Catching the excess power with batteries, and disabling the generators while the batteries are charged, will make them more fuel-efficient.

==== Boomalope setup ====

Boomalopes generate enough chemfuel to run 1 generator.

3 boomalopes give enough fuel to continuously power 4 generators for a total of 4000W. This is not taking into account any energy costs from growing food for use by the boomalopes.

If the animals have to be fed with grown food for more than a few days during the year, it is more efficient to convert the food straight into chemfuel (in a refinery), instead of feeding it to boomalopes. On the other hand, if the biome allows the boomalopes to graze for most of the year, this makes them a free source of energy (if you can keep them safe).

==== Greenhouse setup ====

A hydroponic greenhouse will produce far more chemfuel than necessary to power the greenhouse and the required refinery. This translates into a very high surplus of power (if you build additional generators), or you can use the surplus to grow food or drugs for the colony. Even a single greenhouse can easily cover the food and energy needs of a mid-sized colony, without having to rely on any other power source.

==== Infinite chemreactor setup ====

[[Infinite chemreactor]]s generate enough chemfuel to run a generator, which in turn generates more than enough power to run the chemreactor.

3 infinite chemreactors can generate enough fuel to power 5 generators, for a total surplus power of 4100W.

Because the ''infinite chemreactor'' is a rare quest reward, it is unlikely that you will be able to create a setup that produces enough power for the entire colony.

=== Geothermal power ===

[[Geothermal generator]]s constantly give 3600W of power after being built on a steam geyser, without requiring fuel. It is an important source of power from mid-game onward, as it is constant and high-powered. A basic mid-sized colony can be sustained using 5 generators, around the usual number of geysers found on the map.

Research is required to unlock it. The generator itself is quite costly so it's best left to midgame. It is possible to rush the research for geothermal power, though you should be careful not to neglect other more important research projects. However, once researched and built you can have a constant power supply.

Make sure your geothermal generators and their connecting conduits are well-protected as they often have to be placed far from base. Walling the generators helps protect them against raiders, but walling the conduits isn't recommended due to the cost and its hindrance on colonist field work.

Be aware of the heat that the geysers release. If you closely wall and roof in a geothermal generator, the temperature inside will be quite high, enough to set combustibles on fire (including the generator itself). It is thus necessary to remove the roofs on such buildings. However, if the vent is close to your base in a cold biome, consider attaching it to your own base to help heat it.

=== Power storage ===

[[Battery|Batteries]] store electricity during times of excess and release it during times when demand exceeds supply. You will need batteries to store power if you're using unstable power supplies such as wind or solar power. Batteries must be kept under a roof to prevent short circuits. They should also be protected from external threats as losing batteries to raiders or mortars can cripple your power supply.

=== Emergency power ===

Some events will cause you to lose power if you are unprepared. Some colonies rely on wind or solar power to power everything. Eventually, every colony with electricity will suffer from a [[Events#Zzztt...|conduit explosion]]. Since you will be relying on batteries to store your power, this can cause a lot of disruption if the renewable energy isn't enough to power your base while your now empty batteries recharge. Raiders attacking and destroying power conduits connected to power generators can sever power from the colony, reducing the power available. In all these circumstances, this can leave you without enough power for your freezers, production, hydroponics, temperature control or even your turrets. However, it can be mitigated:
*'''Backup batteries''': Always have spare power stores, such as separate battery systems with switches. Once charged, flick the switch to isolate them from the rest of the power grid. Only reconnect it when your main grid has run out or the reserves need charging.
*'''Backup generators''': Have some fueled generators that you bring online only if there's not enough power in the colony. This can allow your backup batteries to discharge slower or even recharge. If they are turned off they will not consume fuel.

=== Vanometric power cell ===

A [[vanometric power cell]] constantly provides 1000 W of power, out of thin air. It handles like a battery, and can be reinstalled at will. It is the best portable power source in the game, very useful on mining caravans, and if you want to take your entire colony on the long trip to the event spaceship.

Unfortunately, the Vanometric Power Cell is a rare quest reward, and there is no guarantee to obtain one during the course of a game.

If the additional 1000 W from the VPC is not needed in your colony, it can be used as a risk-free way to keep any number of batteries at full charge, indefinitely. Place the battery array directly adjacent to the VPC; this will keep it charged without the possibility of short-circuiting, since no power conduits are used. Do not connect this installation to the rest of your power grid.

=== Power network ===

It's not a good idea to have just 1 conduit spanning the entirety of your base. While it saves materials, short circuits or other events can cripple your power supply to parts of your base. Instead, build a network with redundant pathways so that the grid will continue to function even if there is a break somewhere in the network. Consider using doors to cover up the beauty penalty for exposed conduit indoors.

Since geothermal generators must be built on top of existing geysers, they are often located far from your base. It is best to connect geothermal generators to other geothermal generators so that events such as wildfires and raider attacks won't easily disconnect them from your power network, causing severe power shortages.

If you choose to avoid short circuits by not building any conduits, you'll need to plan ahead to build your base around the steam geysers, long before you have geothermal power researched. It requires careful arrangement to get every powered appliance close enough to a generator stack to auto-connect. You will likely end up with a few separate clusters of generators for the greenhouse, workshop, freezer, hospital etc. With this method, your appliances should not lose power unless the generator itself is destroyed.

== Defenses ==
{{main|Defense structures}}
{{see also|Defense tactics}}

Unless you're playing on Peaceful difficulty, you will eventually encounter major threats, so you will need to prepare defenses for that.

Preparation is a huge advantage that you have. You can fortify your defenses to make the most out of your defending colonists, and tilt the field towards your favor.

*Cover is a major aspect in defense. While enemies are hiding behind rock chunks, you have [[sandbags]] and walls on your side, giving you a significant upper hand. You can even clear the rock chunks to force enemies behind trees which are less optimal a cover choice, widening the advantage.
*You get to choose where the enemy attacks (unless they use sappers to tunnel in). It is a good idea to only have one or two entrances with lots of defenses and traps to repel attacks.
*You can choose to build [[turret]]s if you have unlocked them. They are essential if you don't have enough colonists to defend against raids, either the start of the Rich Explorer scenario or lategame when you have a lot of wealth that will attract an army of raiders.

== Temperature control ==

Room should have its temperature regulated by some method or another, so as to keep a comfortable temperature for colonists to live in, and protect them from extreme temperature conditions such as heat waves, cold snaps or simply the ambient temperature outdoors.

Large rooms such as your dining room or rec room should have their own [[heater]]s and [[cooler]]s. If they are interconnected you may want to open doors for faster colonist access and temperature exchange. If you choose to do so, remember to close doors if a fire breaks out in the room.

Colonists will complain if sleeping in the extreme heat or cold. Bedrooms and other smaller rooms should be thermally connected to a larger central space via [[vent]]s. Your heaters and coolers should be all placed outside the bedrooms. This reduces the number of heaters and coolers you need to build while keeping your bedrooms at a comfy temperature at the same time.

Keep in mind that you will also need to be prepared in case of a freak temperature event such as heat waves or cold snaps. Without enough temperature devices rooms can get uncomfortably cold or hot, and in severe cases begin to cause hypothermia or heatstroke.

=== Cooler gap prevention ===

As coolers need to be built as part of a wall, the process of building a cooler involves tearing down the original wall, then putting the cooler in place. This short interval allows temperature to go freely through the gap, which isn't something you want.

To fix this, you can plug the gap by building a cheap wooden wall in front of or behind the cooler blueprint, then starting work on the cooler. The wooden wall will prevent temperatures from equalizing easily. Remember to deconstruct the wall after the cooler is done.

=== Protected coolers ===

Coolers are very fragile and must be placed in a wall, so a single explosion or dedicated effort from melee attackers can easily break them down. Protecting the coolers helps fortify your base against enemy raids by eliminating the weak points in your walls. This is done by walling the coolers off while giving it unroofed space in front of the hot end to vent away heat.

If your colony is in a cold but not quite freezing biome, consider venting the heat from the coolers for your freezer into your living spaces instead.

==== Cooler column ====

Place several coolers in line with the hot end facing an unroofed area where the heat vents out into the open. That unroofed area can be placed within an existing structure, such as inside the freezer. For maximum spatial efficiency, the strips of unroofed area should be 1 tile wide, surrounded by coolers. This method is best used for freezers to keep cool as most cases don't call for many coolers.

=== Temporary temperature control ===

If your regular heaters or coolers aren't doing the trick, there's a temporary power outage, or you're a tribe without the ability to harness electricity yet, you can use [[campfire]]s or [[passive cooler]]s to heat or cool down your base respectively. Campfires can't heat above 30°C while passive coolers can't cool below 15°C. Also, their temperature effect is full and cannot be throttled. Depending on what gear your colonists are wearing, it's possible for them to be in a room being heated with campfires and complain about it being too hot.

These are best used to keep colonists comfortable during heat waves or cold snaps. If you always encounter uncomfortable temperatures during summer or winter, then it's time to upgrade your heaters or cooler system.

== Miscellaneous ==

=== Dirt floors ===

Until you have enough manpower to spare for cleaning jobs, use the terrain directly instead of building any floors. Dirt trailed on constructed floors makes for a much worse beauty and cleanliness penalty than using dirt floors, so this can actually make your rooms look better and be 'cleaner'.

For places like hospitals however, it's better to use sterile tiles and manually clean them instead.

=== Flooring outside ===

To reduce the amount of dirt inside your colony buildings, put any kind of flooring covering places where colonists and animals frequently walk. This reduces the amount of dirt formed as well as causes dirt to be left outside where it does not look as bad.

This should obviously be done only if you have enough janitors, otherwise it's better to just not build any floors (see above).

=== Bridges ===

[[Bridge]]s allow for fast movement and some building on shallow sections of rivers and marshy terrain types. They're great for allowing colonies to span rivers, as well as making building in swampy biomes a bit easier. Note that some objects cannot be built or placed on bridges.

=== Moisture pumps ===

[[Moisture pump]]s clear out moisture from the ground around them, making solid land that is suitable for construction and in most cases, agriculture. They are excellent in swamp biomes for clearing out shallow water, marshy soil and mud in order to build structures. Their effect is permanent, so they can safely be deconstructed once the land you want to use is dry.

{{nav/guides}}
[[Category:Guides]]

Biomes

2020-02-03T16:39:55Z

Mayoculpa: /* Extreme desert */

<noinclude>

{| align=center
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</noinclude>
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<onlyinclude>
'''Biomes''' are types of area on a planet, characterized by their terrain properties, [[Weather|climate]], [[Plants|flora]] and [[Animals|fauna]], [[disease]]s and special challenges. Each world tile has one particular biome.

Oceans and lakes appears as world tiles but are not playable biomes.

There are twelve playable biomes types in RimWorld, which can be divided into three categories: Warm, Hot and Cold.

<div>[[File:World overview.png|550px|World Map]]</div>

The following is a simple summary of the biomes by difficulty, overall cold biomes are more challenging than their hot counterparts.

[[File:BiomeIntensityDiagram.png|750px|Biome Intensity Diagram]]
</onlyinclude>
==Warm Biomes==
These biomes are rich in flora and fauna, and also have a slightly elevated rate of disease. They generally have year-round growing periods, or longer growing periods at the very least. Traveling speed is fast in normal forests and average in dense forests but slow in marshes and during cold seasons if they have one.

===Temperate Forest===
Forests of deciduous trees interspersed with fertile clearings. Many species of animals move around among the trees and on the plains.

====Growing Season, Temperature, Travel and Disease====
* Growing Season: From all year to 20/60 days.
* Average Temperature: {{Temperature|25}} to {{Temperature|0}}.
* Temperature Variation: From {{Temperature|35}} in summer to {{Temperature|-25}} in winter.
* Roads and Rivers: Yes.
* Movement Difficulty: 1, but sometimes 3 due to winter.
* Forageability: 100%.
* Grazable: Only during growing season.
* Disease frequency: 1.2 per year.

====Flora====

[[Grass]], [[Tall grass]], [[Brambles]], [[Dandelions]], [[Bush]], [[Oak tree]], [[Poplar tree]], [[Raspberry bush]], [[Healroot]].

====Fauna====

[[Hare]], [[Squirrel]], [[Rat]], [[Deer]], [[Wild boar]], [[Turkey]], [[Raccoon]], [[Ibex]], [[Muffalo]], [[Alpaca]], [[Boomalope]], [[Boomrat]], [[Tortoise]], [[Gazelle]], [[Megasloth]], [[Rhinoceros]], [[Grizzly bear]], [[Timber wolf]], [[Red fox]], [[Cougar]], [[Lynx]], [[Warg]].

[[File:TemperateForest.png|400px|Temperate Forest]]
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===Temperate Swamp===
Wetlands choked with vegetation and disease. Dense overgrowth makes it hard to move around, and clearing areas for building takes a long time. Much of the terrain is too marshy to support heavy structures.

A more wet version of the Temperate Forest. Like in all swamps, diseases are more common. The marshy soil will probably require [[bridge]]s before constructing buildings and the terrain is really slow to travel, but this biome also has more fertile soil.

====Growing Season, Temperature, Travel and Disease====
* Growing Season: From all year to 20/60 days.
* Average Temperature: {{Temperature|25}} to {{Temperature|0}}.
* Temperature Variation: From {{Temperature|35}} in summer to {{Temperature|-25}} in winter.
* Roads and Rivers: Yes.
* Movement Difficulty: 4, but sometimes 6 due to winter.
* Forageability: 75%.
* Grazable: Only during growing season.
* Disease frequency: 1.5 per year.

====Flora====

[[Tall grass]], [[Chokevine]], [[Bush]], [[Willow tree]], [[Cypress tree]], [[Maple tree]], [[Raspberry bush]], [[Healroot]].

====Fauna====

[[Hare]], [[Squirrel]], [[Rat]], [[Tortoise]], [[Deer]], [[Wild boar]], [[Turkey]], [[Raccoon]], [[Ibex]], [[Muffalo]], [[Alpaca]], [[Boomalope]], [[Boomrat]], [[Megasloth]], [[Rhinoceros]], [[Grizzly bear]], [[Timber wolf]], [[Red fox]], [[Cougar]], [[Lynx]], [[Warg]].

[[File:TemperateSwamp.png|400px|Temperate Swamp]]
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===Tropical Rainforest===
A thick, moist jungle, buzzing with animal life and infested with disease. Despite its visual beauty, this is a very dangerous biome. Choking overgrowth, aggressive animals, and constant sickness are why some explorers call this the "green hell".

Tropical Rainforests are famous for having many diseases, including [[Disease#Sleeping Sickness|Sleeping Sickness]]: a slow-progressing, long-lasting disease that is exclusive to the tropics. Many trees make it difficult to clear land and rapid plant growth makes it difficult to keep it clear.

====Growing Season, Temperature, Travel and Disease====
* Growing Season: From all year to 40/60 days.
* Average Temperature: {{Temperature|30}} to {{Temperature|15}}.
* Temperature Variation: From {{Temperature|35}} in summer to {{Temperature|0}} in winter.
* Roads and Rivers: Yes.
* Movement Difficulty: 2, rarely 4 due to winter.
* Forageability: 100%.
* Grazable: Most of the time, during growing season.
* Disease frequency: 1.7 per year.

====Flora====

[[Grass]], [[Tall grass]], [[Low shrub]], [[Alocasia]], [[Cecropia tree]], [[Palm tree]], [[Bamboo tree]], [[Teak tree]], [[Bush]], [[Clivia]], [[Raspberry bush]], [[Rafflesia]].

====Fauna====

[[Rat]], [[Monkey]], [[Boomalope]], [[Capybara]], [[Cassowary]], [[Tortoise]], [[Chinchilla]], [[Wild boar]], [[Elephant]], [[Rhinoceros]], [[Alpaca]], [[Cobra]], [[Panther]].

[[File:TropicalRainforest.png|400px|Tropical Rainforest]]
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===Tropical Swamp===
A plant-choked, steamy swamp seething with parasites and pathogens. Much of the land is too marshy to build on. Difficult movement, aggressive animals, and rampant disease make living here a nightmare.

A more wet version of the Tropical Rainforest. Like in all swamps diseases are more common. The marshy soil will probably require [[bridge]]s before constructing buildings and the terrain is really slow to travel, but this biome also has more fertile soil. Diseases are even more constant here than in Tropical Rainforests, so making a proper hospital and having good doctors is a priority.

====Growing Season, Temperature, Travel and Disease====
* Growing Season: From all year to 40/60 days.
* Average Temperature: {{Temperature|30}} to {{Temperature|15}}.
* Temperature Variation: From {{Temperature|35}} in summer to {{Temperature|0}} in winter.
* Roads and Rivers: Yes.
* Movement Difficulty: 4, rarely 6 due to winter.
* Forageability: 75%.
* Grazable: Most of the time, during growing season.
* Disease frequency: 2.0 per year.

====Flora====

[[Tall grass]], [[Low shrub]], [[Willow tree]], [[Cypress tree]], [[Maple tree]], [[Chokevine]], [[Alocasia]], [[Bush]], [[Clivia]], [[Raspberry bush]], [[Rafflesia]].

====Fauna====

[[Rat]], [[Monkey]], [[Boomalope]], [[Capybara]], [[Cassowary]], [[Tortoise]], [[Chinchilla]], [[Wild boar]], [[Elephant]], [[Rhinoceros]], [[Alpaca]], [[Cobra]], [[Panther]].

[[File:TropicalSwamp.png|400px|Tropical Swamp]]

==Hot Biomes==
These biomes become progressively dry as they become more arid. Moderate amount of flora and fauna, which drops off as you pick a more extreme biome. Mostly year-round growing periods. Traveling in those biomes is usually fast and rarely slowed by cold seasons.

===Arid shrubland===
A dry region, but not dry enough to become a true desert. Open plains with grasses and bushes give way to scattered groves of trees. Plants are hardy and there is a moderate density of animals, but arable soil is hard to find.

====Growing Season, Temperature, Travel and Disease====
* Growing Season: From all year to 40/60 days.
* Average Temperature: {{Temperature|30}} to {{Temperature|15}}.
* Temperature Variation: From {{Temperature|35}} in summer to {{Temperature|0}} in winter.
* Roads and Rivers: Yes.
* Movement Difficulty: 1, rarely 3 due to winter.
* Forageability: 50%.
* Grazable: Most of the time, during growing season.
* Disease frequency: 0.9 per year.

====Flora====

[[Grass]], [[Dandelions]], [[Bush]], [[Pincushion cactus]], [[Agave]], [[Saguaro cactus]], [[Drago tree]], [[Raspberry bush]].

====Fauna====

[[Alpaca]], [[Boomalope]], [[Boomrat]], [[Cougar]], [[Dromedary]], [[Elephant]], [[Emu]], [[Fennec fox]], [[Gazelle]], [[Hare]], [[Iguana]], [[Megasloth]], [[Muffalo]], [[Ostrich]], [[Rat]], [[Rhinoceros]].

[[File:AridShrubland.png|400px|Arid Shrubland]]
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===Desert===
A very dry area which supports little life. There is very little arable land, and animal life is very sparse. Deserts can be hot, or quite cold.

With so few animals to hunt, growing crops is a priority on one of the few arable patches. The hot temperatures can cause problems for colonists and tamed animals. This biome has patches of soft sand which prevent building, but can be removed with [[moisture pump]]s.

====Growing Season, Temperature, Travel and Disease====
* Growing Season: From all year to 10/60 days.
* Average Temperature: {{Temperature|30}} to {{Temperature|0}}.
* Temperature Variation: From {{Temperature|35}} in summer to {{Temperature|-25}} in winter.
* Roads and Rivers: Yes.
* Movement Difficulty: 1, but sometimes 3 due to winter.
* Forageability: 25%.
* Grazable: Only during growing season.
* Disease frequency: 0.7 per year.

====Flora====

[[Grass]], [[Pincushion cactus]], [[Saguaro cactus]], [[Dandelions]], [[Drago tree]], [[Agave]], [[Bush]].

====Fauna====

[[Iguana]], [[Dromedary]], [[Boomalope]], [[Ostrich]], [[Emu]], [[Gazelle]], [[Cougar]], [[Fennec fox]].

[[File:Desert.png|400px|Desert]]
----

===Extreme desert===
An extremely hot, dry area, devoid of almost all life. Searing heat and a near total lack of arable land make it very difficult to survive here.

The hot temperatures can cause problems for colonists and tamed animals. Its warm enough for growing plants outdoors, but it has to be done in stony patches around hills and mountains. Even though [[potatoes]] grows better in stony soil, you need to plant [[rice]] first so you will not starve while waiting for [[potatoes]]. [[Berries|Strawberries]] are also a good idea since there is no wood for cooking. Later, [[moisture pump]]s can create larger growable areas if you play on maps with coast and [[Hydroponics basin|hydroponics]] can be used instead of ground. This biome has patches of soft sand which prevent building, but can be removed with [[moisture pump]]s. Animal migrations may occur, about once every other year.

====Growing Season, Temperature, Travel and Disease====
* Growing Season: From all year to 30/60 days.
* Average Temperature: {{Temperature|30}} to {{Temperature|10}}.
* Temperature Variation: From {{Temperature|35}} in summer to {{Temperature|-5}} in winter.
* Roads and Rivers: Yes.
* Movement Difficulty: 1, rarely 3 due to winter.
* Forageability: 0%.
* Grazable: Never.
* Disease frequency: 0.7 per year.

====Flora====

[[Grass]], [[Saguaro cactus]], [[Agave]].

====Fauna====

[[Iguana]], [[Dromedary]], [[Fennec fox]].

[[File:ExtremeDesert.png|400px|Extreme Desert]]

==Cold Biomes==
These biomes become progressively colder and hostile as they become more intense. Flora and fauna becomes more scarce as you pick a more extreme biome. Mostly seasonal growing periods but may go down to no growing period in more extreme biomes. Traveling in those biomes is usually slow due to marsh and cold seasons which can be very long.

===Boreal Forest===
Forests of coniferous trees. Despite the harsh winters, boreal forests sustain a diverse population of small and large animals, and have warm summers.

====Growing Season, Temperature, Travel and Disease====
* Growing Season: 30/60 days to 10/60 days.
* Average Temperature: {{Temperature|10}} to {{Temperature|-10}}.
* Temperature Variation: From {{Temperature|25}} in summer to {{Temperature|-35}} in winter.
* Roads and Rivers: Yes.
* Movement Difficulty: 1, but often 3 due to winter.
* Forageability: 75%.
* Grazable: Only during growing season.
* Disease frequency: 1.0 per year.

====Flora====

[[Grass]], [[Brambles]], [[Moss]], [[Bush]], [[Pine tree]], [[Birch tree]], [[Poplar tree]], [[Raspberry bush]], [[Healroot]].

====Fauna====

[[Squirrel]], [[Hare]], [[Rat]], [[Elk]], [[Caribou]], [[Muffalo]], [[Wild boar]], [[Ibex]], [[Raccoon]], [[Turkey]], [[Deer]], [[Megasloth]], [[Red fox]], [[Arctic fox]], [[Grizzly bear]], [[Timber wolf]], [[Arctic wolf]], [[Cougar]], [[Lynx]], [[Warg]].

[[File:BorealForest.png|400px|Boreal Forest]]
----

===Cold Bog===

A wetland packed with trees and vines. Much of the marshy land here can't support heavy structures, moving around is slow due to choking vegetation. Disease is endemic in this dense, wet ecosystem.

A more wet version of the Boreal Forest. Like in all swamps, diseases are more common. The marshy soil will probably require [[bridge]]s before constructing buildings and the terrain is really slow to travel, but this biome also has more fertile soil.

====Growing Season, Temperature, Travel and Disease====
* Growing Season: 20/60 days to 10/60 days.
* Average Temperature: {{Temperature|10}} to {{Temperature|-10}}.
* Temperature Variation: From {{Temperature|25}} in summer to {{Temperature|-35}} in winter.
* Roads and Rivers: Yes.
* Movement Difficulty: 4, but often 6 due to winter.
* Forageability: 50%.
* Grazable: Only during growing season.
* Disease frequency: 1.3 per year.

====Flora====

[[Chokevine]], [[Tall grass]], [[Moss]], [[Bush]], [[Astragalus]], [[Willow tree]], [[Cypress tree]], [[Maple tree]], [[Raspberry bush]], [[Healroot]].

====Fauna====

[[Squirrel]], [[Hare]], [[Rat]], [[Elk]], [[Caribou]], [[Muffalo]], [[Wild boar]], [[Ibex]], [[Raccoon]], [[Turkey]], [[Deer]], [[Megasloth]], [[Red fox]], [[Arctic fox]], [[Timber wolf]], [[Arctic wolf]], [[Cougar]], [[Lynx]], [[Warg]], [[Polar bear]], [[Grizzly bear]].

[[File:Cold Bog.png|400px|Cold Bog]]
----

===Tundra===
These mostly-frozen plains bear almost no trees and little vegetation. There are a few small animals interspersed with large herds of migratory grazers and their predators. Animal migrations may occur once or twice per year.

Growing periods are generally very short or non-existent.

====Growing Season, Temperature, Travel and Disease====
* Growing Season: 20/60 days to never.
* Average Temperature: {{Temperature|0}} to {{Temperature|-20}}.
* Temperature Variation: From {{Temperature|25}} in summer to {{Temperature|-50}} in winter.
* Roads and Rivers: Yes.
* Movement Difficulty: 1, but most of the time 3 due to winter.
* Forageability: 50%.
* Grazable: Only during growing season.
* Disease frequency: 0.8 per year.

====Flora====

[[Grass]], [[Moss]], [[Bush]], [[Astragalus]], [[Dandelions]], [[Pine tree]], [[Birch tree]], [[Raspberry bush]], [[Healroot]].

====Fauna====

[[Hare]], [[Snowhare]], [[Caribou]], [[Elk]], [[Muffalo]], [[Ibex]], [[Megasloth]], [[Arctic fox]], [[Arctic wolf]], [[Timber wolf]], [[Lynx]], [[Warg]], [[Polar bear]], [[Grizzly bear]].

[[File:Tundra.png|400px|Tundra]]
----

===Ice Sheet===
Sheets of ice which can be kilometers thick. There is no soil for plants to grow in. The only animals here are migrating to somewhere else - or badly lost.

The only land possible to farm is stony patches around hills and mountains, but they need to be [[heater|heated]] indoors and also have [[sun lamp]]s. You will need to do hunting, trading and cannibalism until you get a [[heater]] and a [[sun lamp]]. Later, [[moisture pump]]s can create larger growable areas and [[Hydroponics basin|hydroponics]] can be used instead of ground. Geothermal vents can be used for free heating. With so few animals here, any predators that roam in will become hungry soon and target your colonists and animals.

====Growing Season, Temperature, Travel and Disease====
* Growing Season: Never.
* Average Temperature: {{Temperature|-20}} to {{Temperature|-40}}.
* Temperature Variation: From {{Temperature|10}} in summer to {{Temperature|-70}} in winter.
* Roads and Rivers: No.
* Movement Difficulty: 1.5, but most of the time 3.5 due to winter.
* Forageability: 0%.
* Grazable: Never.
* Disease frequency: 0.7 per year.

====Flora====

None.

====Fauna====

[[Snowhare]], [[Muffalo]], [[Polar bear]], [[Arctic wolf]], [[Arctic fox]], [[Lynx]], [[Megasloth]].

[[File:IceSheet.png|400px|Ice Sheet]]
----

===Sea Ice===

Permanent ice sheets floating on water. There is no soil for plants to grow, no minerals to mine, and almost no animal life.

Sea Ice does not have ruins and geothermal vents. [[Deep drill]]s do not work and [[moisture pump]]s will only generate more ice, which means it is impossible to grow anything on the ground. You will need to do hunting, trading and cannibalism until you get a [[heater]], a [[sun lamp]] and a [[hydroponics basin]]. It is worth mentioning that Sea Ice was designed to not allow colony building, only to allow traveling in the area, even though it is possible.

====Growing Season, Temperature, Travel and Disease====
* Growing Season: Never.
* Average Temperature: {{Temperature|-20}} to {{Temperature|-30}}.
* Temperature Variation: From {{Temperature|10}} in summer to {{Temperature|-60}} in winter.
* Roads and Rivers: No.
* Movement Difficulty: 1.5, but most of the time 3.5 due to winter.
* Forageability: 0%.
* Grazable: Never.
* Disease frequency: 0.7 per year.

====Flora====

None.

====Fauna====

[[Snowhare]], [[Muffalo]], [[Polar bear]], [[Arctic wolf]], [[Arctic fox]].

[[File:SeaIce.png|400px|Sea Ice]]
----

[[Category:Main]]

Biomes

2020-02-03T16:38:55Z

Mayoculpa: /* Tundra */

<noinclude>

{| align=center
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|}
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</noinclude>
<div style="float:right; clear:{{{clear|right}}}; margin-bottom:.5em; padding:.5em 0 .8em 1.4em; background:transparent; max-width:20em;" class="toclimit-3">__TOC__</div>
<onlyinclude>
'''Biomes''' are types of area on a planet, characterized by their terrain properties, [[Weather|climate]], [[Plants|flora]] and [[Animals|fauna]], [[disease]]s and special challenges. Each world tile has one particular biome.

Oceans and lakes appears as world tiles but are not playable biomes.

There are twelve playable biomes types in RimWorld, which can be divided into three categories: Warm, Hot and Cold.

<div>[[File:World overview.png|550px|World Map]]</div>

The following is a simple summary of the biomes by difficulty, overall cold biomes are more challenging than their hot counterparts.

[[File:BiomeIntensityDiagram.png|750px|Biome Intensity Diagram]]
</onlyinclude>
==Warm Biomes==
These biomes are rich in flora and fauna, and also have a slightly elevated rate of disease. They generally have year-round growing periods, or longer growing periods at the very least. Traveling speed is fast in normal forests and average in dense forests but slow in marshes and during cold seasons if they have one.

===Temperate Forest===
Forests of deciduous trees interspersed with fertile clearings. Many species of animals move around among the trees and on the plains.

====Growing Season, Temperature, Travel and Disease====
* Growing Season: From all year to 20/60 days.
* Average Temperature: {{Temperature|25}} to {{Temperature|0}}.
* Temperature Variation: From {{Temperature|35}} in summer to {{Temperature|-25}} in winter.
* Roads and Rivers: Yes.
* Movement Difficulty: 1, but sometimes 3 due to winter.
* Forageability: 100%.
* Grazable: Only during growing season.
* Disease frequency: 1.2 per year.

====Flora====

[[Grass]], [[Tall grass]], [[Brambles]], [[Dandelions]], [[Bush]], [[Oak tree]], [[Poplar tree]], [[Raspberry bush]], [[Healroot]].

====Fauna====

[[Hare]], [[Squirrel]], [[Rat]], [[Deer]], [[Wild boar]], [[Turkey]], [[Raccoon]], [[Ibex]], [[Muffalo]], [[Alpaca]], [[Boomalope]], [[Boomrat]], [[Tortoise]], [[Gazelle]], [[Megasloth]], [[Rhinoceros]], [[Grizzly bear]], [[Timber wolf]], [[Red fox]], [[Cougar]], [[Lynx]], [[Warg]].

[[File:TemperateForest.png|400px|Temperate Forest]]
----

===Temperate Swamp===
Wetlands choked with vegetation and disease. Dense overgrowth makes it hard to move around, and clearing areas for building takes a long time. Much of the terrain is too marshy to support heavy structures.

A more wet version of the Temperate Forest. Like in all swamps, diseases are more common. The marshy soil will probably require [[bridge]]s before constructing buildings and the terrain is really slow to travel, but this biome also has more fertile soil.

====Growing Season, Temperature, Travel and Disease====
* Growing Season: From all year to 20/60 days.
* Average Temperature: {{Temperature|25}} to {{Temperature|0}}.
* Temperature Variation: From {{Temperature|35}} in summer to {{Temperature|-25}} in winter.
* Roads and Rivers: Yes.
* Movement Difficulty: 4, but sometimes 6 due to winter.
* Forageability: 75%.
* Grazable: Only during growing season.
* Disease frequency: 1.5 per year.

====Flora====

[[Tall grass]], [[Chokevine]], [[Bush]], [[Willow tree]], [[Cypress tree]], [[Maple tree]], [[Raspberry bush]], [[Healroot]].

====Fauna====

[[Hare]], [[Squirrel]], [[Rat]], [[Tortoise]], [[Deer]], [[Wild boar]], [[Turkey]], [[Raccoon]], [[Ibex]], [[Muffalo]], [[Alpaca]], [[Boomalope]], [[Boomrat]], [[Megasloth]], [[Rhinoceros]], [[Grizzly bear]], [[Timber wolf]], [[Red fox]], [[Cougar]], [[Lynx]], [[Warg]].

[[File:TemperateSwamp.png|400px|Temperate Swamp]]
----

===Tropical Rainforest===
A thick, moist jungle, buzzing with animal life and infested with disease. Despite its visual beauty, this is a very dangerous biome. Choking overgrowth, aggressive animals, and constant sickness are why some explorers call this the "green hell".

Tropical Rainforests are famous for having many diseases, including [[Disease#Sleeping Sickness|Sleeping Sickness]]: a slow-progressing, long-lasting disease that is exclusive to the tropics. Many trees make it difficult to clear land and rapid plant growth makes it difficult to keep it clear.

====Growing Season, Temperature, Travel and Disease====
* Growing Season: From all year to 40/60 days.
* Average Temperature: {{Temperature|30}} to {{Temperature|15}}.
* Temperature Variation: From {{Temperature|35}} in summer to {{Temperature|0}} in winter.
* Roads and Rivers: Yes.
* Movement Difficulty: 2, rarely 4 due to winter.
* Forageability: 100%.
* Grazable: Most of the time, during growing season.
* Disease frequency: 1.7 per year.

====Flora====

[[Grass]], [[Tall grass]], [[Low shrub]], [[Alocasia]], [[Cecropia tree]], [[Palm tree]], [[Bamboo tree]], [[Teak tree]], [[Bush]], [[Clivia]], [[Raspberry bush]], [[Rafflesia]].

====Fauna====

[[Rat]], [[Monkey]], [[Boomalope]], [[Capybara]], [[Cassowary]], [[Tortoise]], [[Chinchilla]], [[Wild boar]], [[Elephant]], [[Rhinoceros]], [[Alpaca]], [[Cobra]], [[Panther]].

[[File:TropicalRainforest.png|400px|Tropical Rainforest]]
----

===Tropical Swamp===
A plant-choked, steamy swamp seething with parasites and pathogens. Much of the land is too marshy to build on. Difficult movement, aggressive animals, and rampant disease make living here a nightmare.

A more wet version of the Tropical Rainforest. Like in all swamps diseases are more common. The marshy soil will probably require [[bridge]]s before constructing buildings and the terrain is really slow to travel, but this biome also has more fertile soil. Diseases are even more constant here than in Tropical Rainforests, so making a proper hospital and having good doctors is a priority.

====Growing Season, Temperature, Travel and Disease====
* Growing Season: From all year to 40/60 days.
* Average Temperature: {{Temperature|30}} to {{Temperature|15}}.
* Temperature Variation: From {{Temperature|35}} in summer to {{Temperature|0}} in winter.
* Roads and Rivers: Yes.
* Movement Difficulty: 4, rarely 6 due to winter.
* Forageability: 75%.
* Grazable: Most of the time, during growing season.
* Disease frequency: 2.0 per year.

====Flora====

[[Tall grass]], [[Low shrub]], [[Willow tree]], [[Cypress tree]], [[Maple tree]], [[Chokevine]], [[Alocasia]], [[Bush]], [[Clivia]], [[Raspberry bush]], [[Rafflesia]].

====Fauna====

[[Rat]], [[Monkey]], [[Boomalope]], [[Capybara]], [[Cassowary]], [[Tortoise]], [[Chinchilla]], [[Wild boar]], [[Elephant]], [[Rhinoceros]], [[Alpaca]], [[Cobra]], [[Panther]].

[[File:TropicalSwamp.png|400px|Tropical Swamp]]

==Hot Biomes==
These biomes become progressively dry as they become more arid. Moderate amount of flora and fauna, which drops off as you pick a more extreme biome. Mostly year-round growing periods. Traveling in those biomes is usually fast and rarely slowed by cold seasons.

===Arid shrubland===
A dry region, but not dry enough to become a true desert. Open plains with grasses and bushes give way to scattered groves of trees. Plants are hardy and there is a moderate density of animals, but arable soil is hard to find.

====Growing Season, Temperature, Travel and Disease====
* Growing Season: From all year to 40/60 days.
* Average Temperature: {{Temperature|30}} to {{Temperature|15}}.
* Temperature Variation: From {{Temperature|35}} in summer to {{Temperature|0}} in winter.
* Roads and Rivers: Yes.
* Movement Difficulty: 1, rarely 3 due to winter.
* Forageability: 50%.
* Grazable: Most of the time, during growing season.
* Disease frequency: 0.9 per year.

====Flora====

[[Grass]], [[Dandelions]], [[Bush]], [[Pincushion cactus]], [[Agave]], [[Saguaro cactus]], [[Drago tree]], [[Raspberry bush]].

====Fauna====

[[Alpaca]], [[Boomalope]], [[Boomrat]], [[Cougar]], [[Dromedary]], [[Elephant]], [[Emu]], [[Fennec fox]], [[Gazelle]], [[Hare]], [[Iguana]], [[Megasloth]], [[Muffalo]], [[Ostrich]], [[Rat]], [[Rhinoceros]].

[[File:AridShrubland.png|400px|Arid Shrubland]]
----

===Desert===
A very dry area which supports little life. There is very little arable land, and animal life is very sparse. Deserts can be hot, or quite cold.

With so few animals to hunt, growing crops is a priority on one of the few arable patches. The hot temperatures can cause problems for colonists and tamed animals. This biome has patches of soft sand which prevent building, but can be removed with [[moisture pump]]s.

====Growing Season, Temperature, Travel and Disease====
* Growing Season: From all year to 10/60 days.
* Average Temperature: {{Temperature|30}} to {{Temperature|0}}.
* Temperature Variation: From {{Temperature|35}} in summer to {{Temperature|-25}} in winter.
* Roads and Rivers: Yes.
* Movement Difficulty: 1, but sometimes 3 due to winter.
* Forageability: 25%.
* Grazable: Only during growing season.
* Disease frequency: 0.7 per year.

====Flora====

[[Grass]], [[Pincushion cactus]], [[Saguaro cactus]], [[Dandelions]], [[Drago tree]], [[Agave]], [[Bush]].

====Fauna====

[[Iguana]], [[Dromedary]], [[Boomalope]], [[Ostrich]], [[Emu]], [[Gazelle]], [[Cougar]], [[Fennec fox]].

[[File:Desert.png|400px|Desert]]
----

===Extreme desert===
An extremely hot, dry area, devoid of almost all life. Searing heat and a near total lack of arable land make it very difficult to survive here.

The hot temperatures can cause problems for colonists and tamed animals. Its warm enough for growing plants outdoors, but it has to be done in stony patches around hills and mountains. Even though [[potatoes]] grows better in stony soil, you need to plant [[rice]] first so you will not starve while waiting for [[potatoes]]. [[Berries|Strawberries]] are also a good idea since there is no wood for cooking. Later, [[moisture pump]]s can create larger growable areas if you play on maps with coast and [[Hydroponics basin|hydroponics]] can be used instead of ground. This biome has patches of soft sand which prevent building, but can be removed with [[moisture pump]]s.

====Growing Season, Temperature, Travel and Disease====
* Growing Season: From all year to 30/60 days.
* Average Temperature: {{Temperature|30}} to {{Temperature|10}}.
* Temperature Variation: From {{Temperature|35}} in summer to {{Temperature|-5}} in winter.
* Roads and Rivers: Yes.
* Movement Difficulty: 1, rarely 3 due to winter.
* Forageability: 0%.
* Grazable: Never.
* Disease frequency: 0.7 per year.

====Flora====

[[Grass]], [[Saguaro cactus]], [[Agave]].

====Fauna====

[[Iguana]], [[Dromedary]], [[Fennec fox]].

[[File:ExtremeDesert.png|400px|Extreme Desert]]

==Cold Biomes==
These biomes become progressively colder and hostile as they become more intense. Flora and fauna becomes more scarce as you pick a more extreme biome. Mostly seasonal growing periods but may go down to no growing period in more extreme biomes. Traveling in those biomes is usually slow due to marsh and cold seasons which can be very long.

===Boreal Forest===
Forests of coniferous trees. Despite the harsh winters, boreal forests sustain a diverse population of small and large animals, and have warm summers.

====Growing Season, Temperature, Travel and Disease====
* Growing Season: 30/60 days to 10/60 days.
* Average Temperature: {{Temperature|10}} to {{Temperature|-10}}.
* Temperature Variation: From {{Temperature|25}} in summer to {{Temperature|-35}} in winter.
* Roads and Rivers: Yes.
* Movement Difficulty: 1, but often 3 due to winter.
* Forageability: 75%.
* Grazable: Only during growing season.
* Disease frequency: 1.0 per year.

====Flora====

[[Grass]], [[Brambles]], [[Moss]], [[Bush]], [[Pine tree]], [[Birch tree]], [[Poplar tree]], [[Raspberry bush]], [[Healroot]].

====Fauna====

[[Squirrel]], [[Hare]], [[Rat]], [[Elk]], [[Caribou]], [[Muffalo]], [[Wild boar]], [[Ibex]], [[Raccoon]], [[Turkey]], [[Deer]], [[Megasloth]], [[Red fox]], [[Arctic fox]], [[Grizzly bear]], [[Timber wolf]], [[Arctic wolf]], [[Cougar]], [[Lynx]], [[Warg]].

[[File:BorealForest.png|400px|Boreal Forest]]
----

===Cold Bog===

A wetland packed with trees and vines. Much of the marshy land here can't support heavy structures, moving around is slow due to choking vegetation. Disease is endemic in this dense, wet ecosystem.

A more wet version of the Boreal Forest. Like in all swamps, diseases are more common. The marshy soil will probably require [[bridge]]s before constructing buildings and the terrain is really slow to travel, but this biome also has more fertile soil.

====Growing Season, Temperature, Travel and Disease====
* Growing Season: 20/60 days to 10/60 days.
* Average Temperature: {{Temperature|10}} to {{Temperature|-10}}.
* Temperature Variation: From {{Temperature|25}} in summer to {{Temperature|-35}} in winter.
* Roads and Rivers: Yes.
* Movement Difficulty: 4, but often 6 due to winter.
* Forageability: 50%.
* Grazable: Only during growing season.
* Disease frequency: 1.3 per year.

====Flora====

[[Chokevine]], [[Tall grass]], [[Moss]], [[Bush]], [[Astragalus]], [[Willow tree]], [[Cypress tree]], [[Maple tree]], [[Raspberry bush]], [[Healroot]].

====Fauna====

[[Squirrel]], [[Hare]], [[Rat]], [[Elk]], [[Caribou]], [[Muffalo]], [[Wild boar]], [[Ibex]], [[Raccoon]], [[Turkey]], [[Deer]], [[Megasloth]], [[Red fox]], [[Arctic fox]], [[Timber wolf]], [[Arctic wolf]], [[Cougar]], [[Lynx]], [[Warg]], [[Polar bear]], [[Grizzly bear]].

[[File:Cold Bog.png|400px|Cold Bog]]
----

===Tundra===
These mostly-frozen plains bear almost no trees and little vegetation. There are a few small animals interspersed with large herds of migratory grazers and their predators. Animal migrations may occur once or twice per year.

Growing periods are generally very short or non-existent.

====Growing Season, Temperature, Travel and Disease====
* Growing Season: 20/60 days to never.
* Average Temperature: {{Temperature|0}} to {{Temperature|-20}}.
* Temperature Variation: From {{Temperature|25}} in summer to {{Temperature|-50}} in winter.
* Roads and Rivers: Yes.
* Movement Difficulty: 1, but most of the time 3 due to winter.
* Forageability: 50%.
* Grazable: Only during growing season.
* Disease frequency: 0.8 per year.

====Flora====

[[Grass]], [[Moss]], [[Bush]], [[Astragalus]], [[Dandelions]], [[Pine tree]], [[Birch tree]], [[Raspberry bush]], [[Healroot]].

====Fauna====

[[Hare]], [[Snowhare]], [[Caribou]], [[Elk]], [[Muffalo]], [[Ibex]], [[Megasloth]], [[Arctic fox]], [[Arctic wolf]], [[Timber wolf]], [[Lynx]], [[Warg]], [[Polar bear]], [[Grizzly bear]].

[[File:Tundra.png|400px|Tundra]]
----

===Ice Sheet===
Sheets of ice which can be kilometers thick. There is no soil for plants to grow in. The only animals here are migrating to somewhere else - or badly lost.

The only land possible to farm is stony patches around hills and mountains, but they need to be [[heater|heated]] indoors and also have [[sun lamp]]s. You will need to do hunting, trading and cannibalism until you get a [[heater]] and a [[sun lamp]]. Later, [[moisture pump]]s can create larger growable areas and [[Hydroponics basin|hydroponics]] can be used instead of ground. Geothermal vents can be used for free heating. With so few animals here, any predators that roam in will become hungry soon and target your colonists and animals.

====Growing Season, Temperature, Travel and Disease====
* Growing Season: Never.
* Average Temperature: {{Temperature|-20}} to {{Temperature|-40}}.
* Temperature Variation: From {{Temperature|10}} in summer to {{Temperature|-70}} in winter.
* Roads and Rivers: No.
* Movement Difficulty: 1.5, but most of the time 3.5 due to winter.
* Forageability: 0%.
* Grazable: Never.
* Disease frequency: 0.7 per year.

====Flora====

None.

====Fauna====

[[Snowhare]], [[Muffalo]], [[Polar bear]], [[Arctic wolf]], [[Arctic fox]], [[Lynx]], [[Megasloth]].

[[File:IceSheet.png|400px|Ice Sheet]]
----

===Sea Ice===

Permanent ice sheets floating on water. There is no soil for plants to grow, no minerals to mine, and almost no animal life.

Sea Ice does not have ruins and geothermal vents. [[Deep drill]]s do not work and [[moisture pump]]s will only generate more ice, which means it is impossible to grow anything on the ground. You will need to do hunting, trading and cannibalism until you get a [[heater]], a [[sun lamp]] and a [[hydroponics basin]]. It is worth mentioning that Sea Ice was designed to not allow colony building, only to allow traveling in the area, even though it is possible.

====Growing Season, Temperature, Travel and Disease====
* Growing Season: Never.
* Average Temperature: {{Temperature|-20}} to {{Temperature|-30}}.
* Temperature Variation: From {{Temperature|10}} in summer to {{Temperature|-60}} in winter.
* Roads and Rivers: No.
* Movement Difficulty: 1.5, but most of the time 3.5 due to winter.
* Forageability: 0%.
* Grazable: Never.
* Disease frequency: 0.7 per year.

====Flora====

None.

====Fauna====

[[Snowhare]], [[Muffalo]], [[Polar bear]], [[Arctic wolf]], [[Arctic fox]].

[[File:SeaIce.png|400px|Sea Ice]]
----

[[Category:Main]]

Plants

2020-02-03T16:33:26Z

Mayoculpa: /* Lifespan */

{| align=center
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{| align=center
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|}
----


{{Tocright}}
'''Plants''' come in varieties that are either cultivated or grow wild. Cultivated plants are planted by colonists in a [[growing zone]] or a [[hydroponics basin]], mainly for food. Wild plants grow naturally throughout the map. Some wild plants spread themselves via seeds. Animals mostly graze on wild plants but will happily eat cultivated crops as well, including tamed animals. Since Alpha 17, they leave [[filth|ash]] on the ground when burnt.

[[File:Plantation growing zone.png|500px]]

== Growth Rate Factors ==

===Fertility===
The medium used to grow the plants in matters for both for growth speed and if growing a plant is even possible in any given spot.

Most plants have a Fertiltiy requirement of at least 50%. However, most Trees come out with a measily 30% Fertility.

Most plants have a <fertilityFactorGrowthRate>, which is used to determine how "picky" a plant is about how fertile its terrain needs to be. Ingame this is also denoted as "Fertility sensitivity". A plant with a <fertilityFactorGrowthRate> of 0 will not care if it is planted on fertile soil or sand; it will grow at the same rate on any terrain tile that will accept its roots. In contrast, a plant with a <fertilityFactorGrowthRate> of 1 will not grow so well if it is planted on anything less fertile than standard soil.

'''Note''': Beyond 100% Fertility, high Fertiltiy Sensitivity becomes a bonus rather than a penalty. For such cases highly sensitive plants are preferable.

*Sand: 6%
*Stony soil and Marshy soil: 70%
*Soil and Lichen-covered dirt: 100%
*Rich soil: 140%
*Hydroponics: 280%

<big>{{math|''(GRF(F)) Growth Rate Factor: Fertility {{=}} 1 + ( fertilityFactorGrowthRate × (Terrain Fertility − 1))}}</big>

===Temperature===
For normal growth rate, plants require [[temperature]] between {{Temperature|10}} and {{Temperature|42}}. Plant growth rate drops by 10.0% for each degree Celsius below {{Temperature|10}}, and by 6.25% for each degree above {{Temperature|42}}. The plant's info window will show 'Out of ideal temperature range (growing at xx% of normal speed)'. Plants will not grow when the temperature falls below {{Temperature|1}} or rises above {{Temperature|57}}. The plant's info window will show 'Out of ideal temperature range (not growing)'. If the temperature drops below {{Temperature|-10}}, it will either die or lose its leaves, depending on the type of plant. Leafless plants cannot grow, and will take a full day to regrow their leaves after the temperature rises back above {{Temperature|-2}}.

<big>{{math|''(GRF(T)) Growth Rate Factor: Temperature {{=}} (Temperature(T)) ÷ 10 {{X| |24}}; Temperature(T) < 10C}} 
{{math|''(GRF(T)) Growth Rate Factor: Temperature {{=}} 1 {{X| |45}} ; 10C ≤ Temperature(T) ≤ 42C}} 
{{math|''(GRF(T)) Growth Rate Factor: Temperature {{=}} (58C − Temperature(T)) ÷ 15 ; 42C < Temperature(T) }}</big> 

===Light===
Most plants typically require at least 51% [[Environment#Light|light]] to grow.

Decorative Plants typically require at least 30% [[Environment#Light|light]] to grow.

This minimum light value can be modified by changing a plant's <growMinGlow> value. When a plant lacks adequate light its info window indicates this with the text <tt>'Needs light level: ##%'</tt>. Over that minimum a plant's growth rate will increase until it reaches its optimal light level (100% standard). A plant's optimal light level can be modified by changing its <growOptimalGlow> value.

Most artificial light sources only provide 50% light. Only decorative plants can grown under such poor light conditions. The [[sun lamp]] provides 100% light in its radius, and is thus usually required for any indoor growing.

<big>{{math|''(GRF(L)) Growth Rate Factor: Light {{=}} (Light(L) − growMinGlow) ÷ (growOptimalGlow − growMinGlow)}}</big> 

==Rest==
[[File:Plants-Growing_Time.png|right|thumb|Overview of the hourly plant activity.]]
All plants rest from hour 19 through hour 5. More accurately, plants rest for 11h of the day, leaving 13h of the day for growing.

During the plant resting time period, plants will not grow no matter the light level.

A new constant, Growing Ticks/Day, can be found by multiplying Ticks/Day by 13/24 (approx. 54.167%) :

<big>{{math|''Growing Ticks/Day {{=}} (60,000 Ticks/Day × 13/24) {{=}} 32,500 Ticks}}</big> 
{{clr}}

==Instant Growth==
All plants receive an instantaneous growth of 5% when sown (planted). 
This is relevant because it means that all plants only need to grow 95% from the moment they are sown to become fully grown (100%). 
You'll see this show up in a later equation as a new value: Growth Remaining 
You can use this value to help determine how long a plant has left before it is fully grown. 

<big>{{math|''Growth Remaining'' {{=}} 1 − 0.05 {{=}} 0.95}}; Plant was just sown 
{{math|''Growth Remaining'' {{=}} 1 − ''Current Growth'' < 0.95}}; Plant was sown some time ago</big> 

==Actual Growth Time==
The Growth Time displayed in-game can tend to confuse a player into thinking a plant will be fully grown in X number of days. 
Due to the various Growth Rate Factors (Fertility, Temperature, Light) and every plant's need to rest, the growDays or "Growth Time" listed in-game is not an accurate/intuitive representation of how long a plant actually takes to grow. 
For example: A Raspberry Bush (3:growDays), on Soil (1:Fert), experiencing optimal temperature and light 100% of the time (1:Temp, 1:Light), will take approximately 5.18 actual in-game days to grow. 
It is important to remember this when setting up your growing zones.

<big>{{math|''Actual Growth Time {{=}} (Growth Remaining × 60,000 Ticks/Day × growDays) ÷ (Growing Ticks/Day × GRF(F) × GRF(T) × GRF(L))}}</big> 

==Lifespan==
If they are not harvested or eaten, plants will eventually die. This is called *dying of rot*. The counting of their lifetime starts when the plant is sown/spawned. Since plants only grow during certain hours, and growth rate varies greatly under different circumstances, it is possible for a plant to die before it reaches full maturity or even while still on the initial progress. A plant will also die from rotting if it is completely deprived of light - for example, if a roof is built over it.

The lifespan of a plant is calculated by multiplying the plant's ''growDays'' by its ''lifespanFraction''.
Most vanilla plants have a default ''lifespanFraction'' of 5, but some go as high as 8. Trees have this property as well, but due to their long growth time (''growDays''), their lifespan is longer than is generally relevant. 

=== Domesticated Plants ===
{{#ask: [[Category:Domesticated plants]]
| ?Grow Days
| ?Harvest Yield
| ?Real Grow Days
| ?Nutrition per Day # = Nutrition Per Day (normal)
| ?Nutrition per Day (140) # = Nutrition Per Day (fertile)
| ?Nutrition per Day (70) # = Nutrition Per Day (gravel)
| ?Nutrition per Day (280) # = Nutrition Per Day (hydroponic)
| ?Fertility Sensitivity
}}

{{math|''Real Grow Days'' {{=}} Grow Days ÷ 0.5417}}

{{math|''Nutrition per Day'' {{=}} Harvest Yield × Nutrition (0.05) ÷ Real Grow Days}}

=== Decorative Plants ===
{{#ask: [[Category:Decorative plants]]
| ?Beauty
| ?Minimum Yield
| ?Maximum Yield
| ?Product
| ?Growth Time
| ?Fertility Factor
}}

=== Wild Plants ===
{{#ask: [[Category:Wild plants]]
| ?Beauty
| ?Minimum Yield
| ?Maximum Yield
| ?Product
| ?Growth Time
| ?Fertility Factor
}}

== Trees ==
{{#ask: [[Category:Trees]]
| ?Beauty
| ?Minimum Yield
| ?Maximum Yield
| ?Product
| ?Growth Time
| ?Fertility Factor
}}

{{math|''Yield per Day' {{=}} Yield × (1 − Plant Resting<ref>This is the fraction of the day were plants don't grow, 0.45 is used in above calculation. [[Plant|Plants]] for more information</ref>)×[(Fertility of Soil<ref>Normal soil (1.00) is used in above equation.</ref> × Fertility Factor) + 1 − Fertility Factor) ÷ Growth Time]}}

{{math|''Plants per Colonist' {{=}} Hunger<ref>This is 0.8 , [[Saturation]] for more information</ref> ÷ (Yield per Day × Nutrition<ref>This is 0.05 for raw food, [[Food]] for more information</ref>)}}
<references/>
<noinclude>
{{nav|plant|wide}}
<noinclude/>

[[Category:Plants]]

==Plant Growth approaches==

The player has a number of options to get plants grown for food and raw material. Each of them has their up- and downsides and a proper mix of them is nesseary to be resistant to disruptions, inclding seasons.

===Fields===

You just define a growing zone, select the crop and let nature and your pawns set to growing do the rest.

'''Upsides:'''
* No cost, excluding the work time to clear trees, sow crops, and harvesting.
* Available at the start, regardless of technology level

'''Downsides:'''
* Outdoor growing is dependent on the local seasonal weather and even impossible in the coldest biomes
* Highly vulnerable to irregular temperature variations such as [[Events#Cold snap|cold snaps]] and [[Events#Heat Wave|heat waves]] that could stop growth or even kill plants
* Outdoor growing is vulnerable to events like [[Events#Toxic fallout|toxic fallout]] and [[Events#Volcanic winter|volcanic winter]]
* Without walls, raiders can easily set your crops ablaze and wild animals can eat your crops. Tamed animals can be excluded via zones however

===Greenhouse===

The Greenhouse is a walled and roofed growing zone, with a sunlamp providing light and heaters or coolers maintaining climate

'''Upsides:'''
* Walling off your crops keeps out raiders and wild animals
* Low costs for the walls and sun lamp alone
* Full resistance to temperature variations once [[heater]]s or [[cooler]]s are built
* Slightly increased growth, due to the persistent 100% lighting level from the sun lamp during the day
* Energy shortages will only kill existing plants if the temperature gets too extreme
* Immune to events like toxic fallout and volcanic winter

'''Downsides:'''
* Trees cannot be planted in greenhouses
* Needs tiles that can support building walls to support the roof, which is difficult in swamp biomes
* Sun lamps require incredible amounts of power during the day: 1-2 solar generators worth of production for the entirety of the plant's non-rest cycle
* High energy costs for maintaining sun lamps
* Requires electricity research to unlock

===Hydroponics Bay===

Hydroponics allows plants to grow without soil by using nutrients dissolved in a water bath. In-game, it requires research to unlock and the construction of one or more Hydroponics basins. These basins will override any growing zone they are placed on top of.

'''Upsides:'''
* Basins provide fertility of 280%, the highest rating in the game
* Plants with high fertility sensitivity grow especially well
* Can be combined with [[#Greenhouse|greenhouses]] for growing in environments too cold or hot for outdoor plant growth, including mountains

'''Downsides:'''
* Building a sunlamp and 24 basins (the maximum amount of basins that can fit within a sun lamp's radius of light) requires a huge resource and power commitment, requiring 4580 watts, 1720 steel, and 24 components.
* If the basin loses power, the plants will die within an in-game hour, unless it can be repaired immediately. If not, manually harvest ASAP
* A power outage including [[Events#Solar flare|solar flares]] will wipe out the entire plant stock in all basins, requiring extensive replanting and usually disrupting food production
* There are fewer options for growing crops within hydroponics basins